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Old 09-22-2014, 09:19 PM
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35 tire help

I have a 2010 4 door sport, manual trans. I plan on in the future throwing on 35 inch tires. Im doing a bunch of smaller things first, like a new air filter, lighting, just cheaper things while i save up for the tires. what I'm having trouble with is figuring out what i need to do exactly. I've looked all over multiple forums and websites. everything is saying something different. it will be a daily driver but i plan on taking it a bit off road on the weekends, nothing serious though. I've been told ill need to regear, but I've also been told i don't need to. same with getting new axles, ball joints, and other things. i thought i was getting somewhere but now I'm just confused. Sorry for the long post, I'm a bit of a newbie but I've been doing a lot of research before resorting to a forum. My question is, for a daily driver of my year and model, what should i do to eventually throw on 35's? Thank you for the help and again, sorry for the long post.

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Old 09-22-2014, 10:39 PM   #2
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Welcome to the Forum! Pertaining to 35's some would consider them the highest you can go without a regear, others would say it's the first size that a regear is necessary. This largely depends on how often you will be driving at speeds of 70+ MPH (high rpm for long amount of time with stock gears) Also your acceleration will decrease significantly, so getting on and off ramps will be more difficult without the regear. For axles, it depends on the intensity of the wheeling you plan on. Sand/mud you will be fine but very slightly at risk. Anything more than than and an axle swap is absolutely necessary. Stock Ball joints on JK's are pos, and you can normally get about 65k miles on them give or take on stock height. Lifting your jeep will decrease this length significantly. A common upgrade are the synergy ball joints, go check them out

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Old 09-23-2014, 12:41 AM   #3
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For 35s, you will need at least a 2.5" lift, 4.5 back spacing wheels, upper C gussets, and upgraded grease-able ball joints.
If you get into serious off highway, then a lot more will be needed!

As for gearing, with the 3.8 engine, and a manual trans, then the best would be the 4:88 ratio.
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:49 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Miser View Post
For 35s, you will need at least a 2.5" lift, 4.5 back spacing wheels, upper C gussets, and upgraded grease-able ball joints.
If you get into serious off highway, then a lot more will be needed!

As for gearing, with the 3.8 engine, and a manual trans, then the best would be the 4:88 ratio.
You have a link for the upper C gussets.
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:00 AM   #5
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:21 AM   #6
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Do I need Upper C Gusset and Lowers or just Uppers? Im assuming they go on the front axle only correct? Now this is only required with stock front axles. What if I have RCV Axleshafts will these still work?
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:05 AM   #7
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I just re geared and added a locker . I`ve never seen a need to add the axle supports on my d30 but I also drive it easy . I know guys that can trash a dana 60 in a parking lot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1M4NfAG_8QQ
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:10 AM   #8
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I would also look into Artec Front Axle Armor Kit (it comes with c gussets) and Rear Axle Truss. I have a D44 front and still plan on trussing - $500 plus install is pretty cheap insurance if you have priced out axles recently. The Artec front kit comes with c gussets.
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:13 AM   #9
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PS As you are new, do not do anything until you read every post in the Common Tech Issues sticky i this forum relating to tires and lifts. All million. It is an initiation right and you will thank us later!
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:28 AM   #10
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I finally found my 35"s just yesterday and have seen mixed comments on the gussets...some swear they're needed and others say they're not...$65 bucks isn't bad for any extra security at all when dealing with the very realistic scenarios for disaster...just wondering why there are mixed views on these...any thoughts?
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockKrawlin View Post
I finally found my 35"s just yesterday and have seen mixed comments on the gussets...some swear they're needed and others say they're not...$65 bucks isn't bad for any extra security at all when dealing with the very realistic scenarios for disaster...just wondering why there are mixed views on these...any thoughts?
Just slapping a 35" tire on doesn't require gussets. I've never seen it personally. I've seen mention of bending C's hitting a good pothole.
Gussets are safe insurance. If you wheel I would do them regardless of tire size. Bigger tires only add to the stress put on the axles.
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:43 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Trendsetter75 View Post
Do I need Upper C Gusset and Lowers or just Uppers? Im assuming they go on the front axle only correct? Now this is only required with stock front axles. What if I have RCV Axleshafts will these still work?
Uppers are fine. Lower C's are stronger.
I would not do RCV's or chrome-moly axles on the D30 with weaker ring/pinion gears. You want the axle/u-joint to break ... Not the gears.
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:56 AM   #13
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What do you mean weaker ring and pinion? Do you mean weaker in general running RCV Axleshafts, or having to get stronger ring and pinion.
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weldporn View Post
I just re geared and added a locker . I`ve never seen a need to add the axle supports on my d30 but I also drive it easy . I know guys that can trash a dana 60 in a parking lot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1M4NfAG_8QQ
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:14 AM   #15
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:21 AM   #16
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If you want absolute confidence on 35's you can do what i did. I have teraflex upper c gussets (lowers arent really needed) teraflex inner sleeve, and RSE outer sleeve. Oh and i have alloy usa ball joints as well. Its good to replace them after welding anything up as the heat can get to them. The rear dana 44 is plenty strong although you can add a truss to it if you would like to. With this combo your not bending stuff. If you do you need to go home and relax a bit lol with all this being said about 8 to 10 of my buddies run 35's on completely stock axles and only one has a bent one. But he wheels like stevie wonder on lsd.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:40 AM   #17
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Quote:
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What do you mean weaker ring and pinion? Do you mean weaker in general running RCV Axleshafts, or having to get stronger ring and pinion.
I had been researching my build and considered things like RCVs and 1350 drive shafts if I go to 37s. But what I read is essentially every system has a "weak link" - in stock, it is the shafts. You beef up the shafts it moves that weak link further into the drive system a la your gears. I suspect it is much easier to replace a shaft than toasted gearing. I have seen shafts pulled on trail with just hand tools.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:44 AM   #18
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What do you mean weaker ring and pinion? Do you mean weaker in general running RCV Axleshafts, or having to get stronger ring and pinion.
Having the axle shaft be the weak link NOT the gearing.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:44 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by mommymallcrawler View Post
I had been researching my build and considered things like RCVs and 1350 drive shafts if I go to 37s. But what I read is essentially every system has a "weak link" - in stock, it is the shafts. You beef up the shafts it moves that weak link further into the drive system a la your gears. I suspect it is much easier to replace a shaft than toasted gearing. I have seen shafts pulled on trail with just hand tools.
Well said
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:20 AM
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thanks for all the help! This really has made it a lot easier. I wasn't expecting answers so fast. This all has helped a lot. Thanks
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:35 PM
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Also, to get the new ball joints and gussets and stuff, the minimum stuff needed to have confidence in running 35's without fear of breakage. If I just take it in to the shop with the tires, can they upgrade all that for me while they put of the tires? Or is it better for me to supply it for them?
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:45 PM   #22
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Also, to get the new ball joints and gussets and stuff, the minimum stuff needed to have confidence in running 35's without fear of breakage. If I just take it in to the shop with the tires, can they upgrade all that for me while they put of the tires? Or is it better for me to supply it for them?
Depends on the shop. You'll def save on markup if the shops allows you to bring in the parts.
Call around ...

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