35” vs 37” Nitto G2 Terra Grappler - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:31 PM
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35” vs 37” Nitto G2 Terra Grappler

I hate to beat a dead horse but I am new to the Jeep scene and have a 2007 Jeep JKU with Manual Trans and factory 4:10 gearing. I am looking at putting new tires on my vehicle and have had several sets of the G2s on several different vehicles. They are great! My Jeep is my daily driver and will be a weekend warrior rig as well. I am trying to decide between the 35” G2s which weigh 69 lbs and the 37” G2s which weigh 75 lbs. I do not wish to change gearing at this point. My concern is when looking through the forums several people feel that serious axle up grades are needed for 37” tires vs the 35” tires. My question is does 6lbs really make that big of a difference on the strain on the drive train? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Please only helpful comments and no soap boxes.
Thanks!!

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Old 07-25-2018, 08:32 PM   #2
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The tire weight difference isn't the issue. It's the 1" longer lever you are now using to accelerate, and decelerate, a 4500lb brick.

Mark

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Old 07-26-2018, 05:15 PM   #3
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Right. It's not just the weight, it's the added height of the tire.
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Old 07-26-2018, 07:45 PM   #4
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Daily driver with 4:10 gears = 33" tires max in my book. May as well shoot it as put 37" tires on it with no gear plans. I killed my Jeep when I jumped from 32" to 35" with 4:10 gears.
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Old 07-26-2018, 09:45 PM
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I appreciate the comments so far. I am how ever slightly confused as to the height of the tire cause issues on the drive train. I am not a complete idiot when it comes to vehicle dynamics and I always thought the strain to the drive train came from rotational mass of the tire thus heavier tires means higher rotational mass which is why individuals hunt for the lightest weight tire in the particular size they are looking for.... as far as a 35” tire on a daily driver many of the gear to size charts state that a 35” tire is within optimal range of the 4:10 gears. My Jeep now runs nearly 3000 rpm with the factory sized BFG Mud Terrains. Those factory tires measure roughly 32” so increasing tire size should lower my rpms at higher speeds. I routinely start in second gear as well.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:47 PM   #6
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The height of the tire is harder on the drivetrain due to the weight being farther away from the axel. Yes it only adds a few lbs however with the weight being farther out more stress is added then simply 6lbs or so of weight,

I added 37’s ridge grapplers to my 16 JKU, auto and 3.73’s.... yes it’s slow....yes I will regear someday and yes I would do it again
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:53 PM   #7
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IMHO, tire weight is dramatically overemphasized around here, I guess because it's easy to understand. Someone here did the math and came up with 1.7:1 ratio for tire weight to effective additional mass. Even if you round that up to 2:1, the 6lb difference translates to effectively adding 54lbs to your jeep (counting the spare), or less than half a tank of gas. Have you ever thought about your jeep performing better with 1/4 tank of gas, than it does with 3/4?

In what gear and at what speed are you now turning 3000rpm? The math says that with a 32" diameter tire (30.8" weighted rolling diameter) and in 6th gear, you should be around 2620rpm. Roughly 3120rpm in 5th.

FWIW, I've run 4.10's with 35's, though behind the 3.6 and at 5000', and didn't like it. 4.88s added greatly to the drivability.

Most important question we haven't asked yet: Do you wheel this rig? If it's just a pavement princess that gets you back and forth to work, I wouldn't worry too much about axle upgrades, even with 37's. Wheeling is a different story, and wheeling hard is pay-to-play.


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Old 07-27-2018, 07:17 AM   #8
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in my opinion, if you want to be able to use 6th gear, then you will need to re gear with either of those options. i ran 37's on 3.73 for a couple months and 4th was my top gear.

the 3.8 needs to run about 2800 to 3000 rpms to have any kind of power at highway speeds with big tires. with 4.88's, i still need to downshift to 5th to maintain speed on some of the slight hills on the thruway here. ideally, 5.13 would have been my choice, but the pinion would be a fair bit weaker than with the 4.88.

if you have 4.10 already, then you likely have a rubicon, so your crawl ratio should be ok with the 4:1 t-case. its the on road part where you will suffer.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:24 AM
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Mark- I do some minor wheeling. I live in Illinois.... so a lot of flat with minor hills. I have been an avid off-roader with atvs and side x sides for years and this is my first foray into a Jeep. Currently it is my daily driver but eventually it will be a “toy”. So until then the off-roading will be limited as it is my daily driver.

With the 4:10s in 6th running 70 it would say I am at ~ 2800rpm hence the statement nearly 3000rpm. On the interstate if I push it up to 80 I would say I’m running ~3100-3200 rpm.


So as far a the vehicle being “slower” with the bigger tires I was kind of expecting that. Vehicle is not really a sports car as it sets. What I don’t want to happen is the vehicle become unbearable to drive.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:30 AM
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Hedge Hog- I do not have a rubicon. My Jeep is a 2007 JKU X package that was ordered with the 4:10 gears, limited slip and all the interior Sahara options added to it. It was a one owner vehicle that was purchased new at my local Jeep dealership. (Where it has been serviced since new) previous owner kept mud terrains on it and wheeled stock on some local “trails”’if you want to call them that LOL more like dirt paths through the woods for a scenic drive. The previous owner traded it for new JL. It is my understanding however that the newer Jeeps can only be had in 4:10 if you get the rubicon. Can’t even be ordered other wise.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:44 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by medic_84 View Post
Hedge Hog- I do not have a rubicon. My Jeep is a 2007 JKU X package that was ordered with the 4:10 gears, limited slip and all the interior Sahara options added to it. It was a one owner vehicle that was purchased new at my local Jeep dealership. (Where it has been serviced since new) previous owner kept mud terrains on it and wheeled stock on some local “trails”’if you want to call them that LOL more like dirt paths through the woods for a scenic drive. The previous owner traded it for new JL. It is my understanding however that the newer Jeeps can only be had in 4:10 if you get the rubicon. Can’t even be ordered other wise.
Nope...my Rubi had 3.73's....

I say do the 37's and let us know how it goes!
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:50 AM   #12
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with 3.73's, mine was just about unbearable around 55, although the taller first was kind of nice in the city.

if you have the want of 37's then nothing else is going to change that, and you will be wishing you got them. worst case, you get them and dont like how it drives, then just change the gearing or the tires.

but you might want to at least do c-gussets. shoot, im still worried i might bend a tube on some of the freakin pot holes we have here!
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:28 AM
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I don’t necessarily have the want for 37s. When I was looking at the tires and pricing at the local tire shop the price between the 35 and 37 was marginal which is what started the heats turning about the 37s I believe 35s would suit my needs but if 37s could be had and at little more cost then I would do the 37s which is why I was asking about the difference in weight and such.
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:29 AM
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Suppose to say gears not heats in previous post
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:46 AM   #15
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Suppose to say gears not heats in previous post
I thought I was late to the party on a new "in" term...
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Old 07-28-2018, 12:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by medic_84 View Post
I have been an avid off-roader with atvs and side x sides for years and this is my first foray into a Jeep. Currently it is my daily driver but eventually it will be a “toy”. So until then the off-roading will be limited as it is my daily driver.

So as far a the vehicle being “slower” with the bigger tires I was kind of expecting that. Vehicle is not really a sports car as it sets. What I don’t want to happen is the vehicle become unbearable to drive.
Ok, you get the wheeling thing already, which is great. I've not driven a 3.8, but am pretty underwhelmed with the 3.6, and most folks on here seem to think the 3.8 is slug compared to the 3.6. The net of that is that you might want shorter gears if you go up in tire size. You can always do it later, and figure it to be about a $1500 expense.

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I don’t necessarily have the want for 37s. When I was looking at the tires and pricing at the local tire shop the price between the 35 and 37 was marginal which is what started the heats turning about the 37s I believe 35s would suit my needs but if 37s could be had and at little more cost then I would do the 37s which is why I was asking about the difference in weight and such.
Do what you want, but I wouldn't let the tire price parity be the deciding factor, if it were me. I'm of the "configure it for how you use it" school of thought, and for my moderately wheeled but still easily drivable rig, that was 2.5" of lift and 35's, but with a regear. Your combination may be different.

Mark
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Old 07-30-2018, 01:23 PM
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So think I made up my mind.... been doing a little more research and the local tire shop has a set of 5 ridge grapplers in 315/70R17 that had been ordered and never picked up... said they will cut me a good deal if I take them off there hands.
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