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Old 02-23-2016, 06:48 AM
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4.10 Axle Option on Auto-Trans Rubicon

The Rubicon drops the axle ratio from 4.1 to 3.73 when you add automatic transmission. But then there is an option to add back 4.1 for an additional $595.

Any thoughts on this? Is it worthwhile to add the option to go back up to 4.1 from 3.73? I prefer an AT

I am a total noob and looking at my first purchase. The one I have my eye on looks like this on the sticker for the question here:

5-Speed Automatic Transmission $ 1,350
3.73 Front / Rear Axle Ratios
Hill Descent Control
Add 4.10 Axle Ratio $ 595

Thanks

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Old 02-23-2016, 06:57 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by MonkeyBrown View Post
The Rubicon drops the axle ratio from 4.1 to 3.73 when you add automatic transmission. But then there is an option to add back 4.1 for an additional $595. Any thoughts on this? Is it worthwhile to add the option to go back up to 4.1 from 3.73? I prefer an AT I am a total noob and looking at my first purchase. The one I have my eye on looks like this on the sticker for the question here: 5-Speed Automatic Transmission $ 1,350 3.73 Front / Rear Axle Ratios Hill Descent Control Add 4.10 Axle Ratio $ 595 Thanks
Really depends on how you are going to use the Jeep and what you are going to do to it. Will you be putting larger tires on it? Lot of highway driving? Strictly an off-road machine? If you are going to put larger tires on, say a 33 or 35" tire, then 4.10 might be a good idea. Larger than that and you would be looking at a regear, so don't waste the money now. If you are gong to leave it bone stock and never do anymore off reading than simple trails then 3.73 would be just fine. Though I like a little more pop with the 4.10.

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Old 02-23-2016, 07:13 AM
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Ultimately I want the jeep to be very handy on trails like the Broken Arrow Trail in Sedona where I will be retiring in 5 years or so. I have done it in a stock sport model from Avis (they'd love that) but it seemed pretty iffy.

My thought was to go ahead and get what i will eventually need now even though for now I will be driving on city street and occasionally pulling a small camping trailer for trips of approximately 200 miles (one way) or less.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:00 AM   #4
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I went with the 4.10 and don't regret it at all. It's certainly fine on the street and definitly better on the trails.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:07 AM   #5
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2 dr or 4 dr? If 2 dr, I recommend it, since largest you'll run will likely be 35s and the 4.10s work pretty well. I had planned on waiting about 5 yrs before lift and tires, and I barely lasted one.

However, if you are looking at a 4 dr, I think they are better suited for 37s. It will cost a little more to set up properly, but for the longer wheelbase will be worth it. In that case you'll want to go lower on the gears, so I wouldn't bother with the upgrade to 4.10s now.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:09 AM   #6
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I recommend 4.10's. Especially if you plan to tow. I'm very happy with automatic and 4.10's
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:27 AM   #7
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$595 for 4.10's, what a rip. When I ordered my 12 JKR in Sept. 2011 I only had to pay $50. Very happy with my choice.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:56 AM   #8
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$595 for 4.10's, what a rip. When I ordered my 12 JKR in Sept. 2011 I only had to pay $50. Very happy with my choice.
It's $695 for anything built after mid-November.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:59 AM   #9
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All depends on your planned tire size. IMO up to a 33" you're fine. 35" 4.56, 37" 4.88, etc
So if you're going bigger than a 33" save your $ from the 4.10s to put towards a re-gear.

Good luck!
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Old 02-23-2016, 10:58 AM   #10
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I love our 410's. I knew we would be towing a teardrop as well as putting 33's on. I have no plans for bigger tires.
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:58 PM   #11
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Yeah on my '12 it cost me like $50 or $90 or something around there. Even with tires measuring 33.5" I would like to go deeper than 4.10, though i have not yet bothered. So if you are going to be running so called "35's" or bigger it's not worth the $600. Put it towards a regear. Now if it were still less than $100 there would be no reason not to go for it.
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:03 PM   #12
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I took possession of my 2012 4-Door Rubi in Sept of 2011. I ordered the Rubi because of the front and rear Dana44s and 4.10 gearing since I knew I wanted to eventually run 35s. I finally got new shoes in February and it runs great. Up until the upgrade of tires/wheels, it was really peppy around town, which wasn't bad, it just drank more gas. Now it feels just right.
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:10 PM   #13
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Absolutely 4.10. In 4 low with the trans in 1st gear, the crawl ratio is wonderful. So much control. I wish the factory offered a 4.30 or 4.56 option.
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:30 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Pattle View Post
2 dr or 4 dr? If 2 dr, I recommend it, since largest you'll run will likely be 35s and the 4.10s work pretty well. I had planned on waiting about 5 yrs before lift and tires, and I barely lasted one.

However, if you are looking at a 4 dr, I think they are better suited for 37s. It will cost a little more to set up properly, but for the longer wheelbase will be worth it. In that case you'll want to go lower on the gears, so I wouldn't bother with the upgrade to 4.10s now.
I would differ with this assessment, in fact recommend just the opposite. Both of my Rubicons have 4.1 gears. One is a two door and the other is a four door. I had a four door Sahara with the 3.73 gears for 10 months when Chrysler bought it back from me and on the replacement went with the Rubicon 4.1s. The Sahara was painfully sluggish. The Rubicon 4 door is only slightly sluggish. The two door is downright peppy compared to the four door and they are geared the same. So if you are purchasing the two door you could likely run stock 31st on 3.73 gears ok on it. Bigger tires than 31s on either two or four door such as 33s, I would definitely want 4.10s.
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:47 PM   #15
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Unless you plan to regear as part of your build, the lowest possible ratio is always the best bet.
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:50 PM   #16
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I just ordered a JKUR with the 4.10s. We have the 3.73s in my wife's willys with the stock 32's and it's completely fine around town. I'm going with the 4.10s as I think I'll eventually go slightly bigger and would like it to stay at least as peppy as the Willys. Strictly speaking the ratios of 32:35 are similar to 3.73:4.10. My math has gone to shit since starting law school (you don't need to know useful things to be a lawyer), but "final drive" on the pavement should actually be slightly better with 4.1s and 35s than 3.73s and 32s.

That said, you are adding rolling mass which can be much more with wider tires on steel rims, and usually much more weight to the vehicle by way of suspension, armor, etc.

If I got 33-34" pizza cutters and a 2.5" lift I will drag race my wife's Willys and report back.

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Old 03-07-2016, 08:35 PM   #17
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2 dr or 4 dr? If 2 dr, I recommend it, since largest you'll run will likely be 35s and the 4.10s work pretty well. I had planned on waiting about 5 yrs before lift and tires, and I barely lasted one.

However, if you are looking at a 4 dr, I think they are better suited for 37s. It will cost a little more to set up properly, but for the longer wheelbase will be worth it. In that case you'll want to go lower on the gears, so I wouldn't bother with the upgrade to 4.10s now.
Pay for the 4.10s. You won't regret it if you do any challenging off-roading at all. As far as 37" tires, be careful. My dealer told me that anything bigger than 35" would void warranty for parts affected by tire size. And I think 35" looks fine for an unlimited.
Just wheeled in Sedona in February and had a blast. Not really difficult, but you can't ask for better scenery.

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