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Old 07-05-2015, 01:02 PM
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AC won't engage - Child on the way

Hey Folks,

I have a 2013JK, AC worked great when I drove it off the lot 2 years ago but within a month it started to get warmer and warmer. I had brought it back and the Dealership "topped it off" and it seemed better for a few weeks.

This was roughly the time I got a soft top, and I never really used my AC again. 2 years later and 60,000 miles I'm out of warranty & My ac doesn't blow cold air at all and it doesn't even seem like the compressor engages. With a child due in August, I'm going to need to get the AC looked at before my wife gives birth so I can keep the jeep a bit cooler for the newborn, especially once I put the hardtop and doors back on.

Any suggestions? I took one of those "AC refill" tanks and used the gauge on it, shows it in the yellow, borderline red. I did not try to add more in, especially since it "appears" full and I don't think the compressor is turning on. Fuses seem fine, the Wire that connects into the compressor appears to be in all the way. Anything else I can look at before calling the dealer\local jeep garage?

Thanks!

-Chris

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Old 07-05-2015, 04:11 PM   #2
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Hey Folks,

I have a 2013JK, AC worked great when I drove it off the lot 2 years ago but within a month it started to get warmer and warmer. I had brought it back and the Dealership "topped it off" and it seemed better for a few weeks.

This was roughly the time I got a soft top, and I never really used my AC again. 2 years later and 60,000 miles I'm out of warranty & My ac doesn't blow cold air at all and it doesn't even seem like the compressor engages. With a child due in August, I'm going to need to get the AC looked at before my wife gives birth so I can keep the jeep a bit cooler for the newborn, especially once I put the hardtop and doors back on.

Any suggestions? I took one of those "AC refill" tanks and used the gauge on it, shows it in the yellow, borderline red. I did not try to add more in, especially since it "appears" full and I don't think the compressor is turning on. Fuses seem fine, the Wire that connects into the compressor appears to be in all the way. Anything else I can look at before calling the dealer\local jeep garage?

Thanks!

-Chris
If the refrigerant is too low the compressor won't turn on. It sounds like you had a leak in the system the whole time that should have been taken care of by the dealer. Having to add refrigerant means that there was a leak in the system. Either the system stays full or it leaks out. The dealer adding refrigerant just puts a band aide on it and doesn't solve the problem. It's too bad that so much time has gone by. The over the counter A/C refill systems will only work if there's a slight leak, and it will be temporary. They don't solve the problem and are really a waste of money. I would take it to a private shop that specializes in auto A/C repair. You might just have a minor seal leak that can be easily taken care of. The shop will most likely charge the system and add a dye where they can actually see where the leak is.

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Old 07-05-2015, 05:02 PM   #3
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If the refrigerant is too low the compressor won't turn on. It sounds like you had a leak in the system the whole time that should have been taken care of by the dealer. Having to add refrigerant means that there was a leak in the system. Either the system stays full or it leaks out. The dealer adding refrigerant just puts a band aide on it and doesn't solve the problem. It's too bad that so much time has gone by. The over the counter A/C refill systems will only work if there's a slight leak, and it will be temporary. They don't solve the problem and are really a waste of money. I would take it to a private shop that specializes in auto A/C repair. You might just have a minor seal leak that can be easily taken care of. The shop will most likely charge the system and add a dye where they can actually see where the leak is.
I agree with this. Any leak is a big leak. AC isnt something that needs to be topped off. Take it to a shop that works on AC, not the dealership. Fortunately AC parts are generally pretty cheap and easy to diagnose.

If the compressor isnt engaging, it is probably one of two things. Bad pressure switch or a problem with the clutch. I have not had to mess with my Jeeps AC, but I know my F250's system like the back of my hand. Ensure it has pressure, then unplug the pressure switch. Jumping the plug should cause your clutch to engage. If that does nothing you probably need a new compressor.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:05 AM
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I appreciate the responses, I haven't been impressed by the dealerships service department so I will look towards a private shop. Thanks again!
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:37 AM
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Brought the jeep to a garage the does AC diagnostics, the compressor won't turn on no matter what they do. Everything else appears to test fine, but the AC won't engage even when applying power directly to it.

Looking at 900$ to replace the compress and accumulator (parts & Labor). Called the original dealership who looked at it when I purchased it and they won't honor any warranty work since I'm so far out of warranty and they looked at it 2 years ago (no big surprise I guess). They told me I can call Chrysler and plead my case there and they may over-ride the dealer and honor the warranty, so that's my next step. My local jeep shop said I can find used parts to try and swap in, which may cut the price in half.

Guess I should of made a stink about this when I bought the jeep and not just taken the doors and top off and never used the AC besides the first 2 weeks after I bought it. Lesson learned.
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:46 AM   #6
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you can ruin a compressor fairly quick with no fluid, also the refrigerant has the oil for seals in it so running it without refrigerant or low can cause problems. How much are they charging in labor? did they separate it all for you or just give a total price? its an easy repair but does require a vacuum. Find an AC guy he will have nitrogen he can plug into the system with 300 PSI and that'll tell you if there is a leak. Once the pressure drops and the system equalizes its easy for air to get in the system and it brings moisture which means no more cold air because freon isn't circulating and a compressor is burning up having no oil but rather air and moisture.
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:06 AM
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you can ruin a compressor fairly quick with no fluid, also the refrigerant has the oil for seals in it so running it without refrigerant or low can cause problems. How much are they charging in labor? did they separate it all for you or just give a total price? its an easy repair but does require a vacuum. Find an AC guy he will have nitrogen he can plug into the system with 300 PSI and that'll tell you if there is a leak. Once the pressure drops and the system equalizes its easy for air to get in the system and it brings moisture which means no more cold air because freon isn't circulating and a compressor is burning up having no oil but rather air and moisture.
Didn't break it down for the quote, all they said is:

"Verified concern, performed diagnosis, found ac compressor does not turn on, performed pinpoint tests, fuses and relays ok, test power and grounds, all good right up to the compressor. recommend replacing the ac compressor and accumulator. 915% parts and labor, 3 days to get parts"

Bringing it to a jeep dealer today for a follow up diagnosis so I can get a Chrysler case manager to review the case and see if it will fall under the original warranty when it first had issues and didn't get fixed.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:09 AM   #8
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Did they charge the system? like mentioned before the compressor wont engage with no fluid, psi is needed aka charge. Compressors are about 600 bucks with a clutch so 900 sounds like there rebuilding or screwing you saying its one thing but it really just a fuse or something simple. I don't trust mechanics, I have had a lot of bad experiences, but that's not the case with every mechanic obviously. but 600 for a compressor plus an accumulator labor and a charge? that's either a really good deal or something else is going on.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:21 AM   #9
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jwalters, if you read what the OP said the shop bypassed the pressure switches and were still unable to get the compressor to engage. You don't have to charge the system when you supply power directly to the compressor clutch. So, there's a problem with the compressor at the very least.

If the system has no refrigerant in it then that it something else altogether, but it doesn't sound like they evacuated the system and checked for leaks, they stopped when they couldn't get the compressor to engage.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:40 AM   #10
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power to a car without fuel doesn't mean it'll run... Freon puts 300 psi to the compressor as a safety without the pressure the compressor wont run with or without power its designed to save itself in a failure. if not everytime someone ran out of Freon they would have to buy a new compressor.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:47 AM   #11
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power to a car without fuel doesn't mean it'll run... Freon puts 300 psi to the compressor as a safety without the pressure the compressor wont run with or without power its designed to save itself in a failure. if not everytime someone ran out of Freon they would have to buy a new compressor.
Ok, you're still not getting it.

The high and low pressure switches are there to prevent the compressor from killing itself, that is true.

However, a shop can BYPASS those switches by supplying 12v directly to the A/C compressor clutch and, if it's working right, it WILL engage the clutch. You don't even have to have the engine running to see if the clutch will try to engage, it's obvious by looking at and listening to the compressor pulley.

They can then perform the same test with the engine running to see if the compressor will spin with the clutch engaged. It's possible that the clutch is bad, the compressor is seized, etc, so just engaging the clutch without the engine running won't tell you if the compressor is actually able to spin.

The system does not need to be charged in order to manually engage and test the compressor's operation.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:12 AM   #12
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Ok, you're still not getting it.

The high and low pressure switches are there to prevent the compressor from killing itself, that is true.

However, a shop can BYPASS those switches by supplying 12v directly to the A/C compressor clutch and, if it's working right, it WILL engage the clutch. You don't even have to have the engine running to see if the clutch will try to engage, it's obvious by looking at and listening to the compressor pulley.

They can then perform the same test with the engine running to see if the compressor will spin with the clutch engaged. It's possible that the clutch is bad, the compressor is seized, etc, so just engaging the clutch without the engine running won't tell you if the compressor is actually able to spin.

The system does not need to be charged in order to manually engage and test the compressor's operation.

ahh some how I missed the word bypass I noticed it like this BYPASS lol
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Old 07-10-2015, 09:58 AM   #13
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JK's do not use low and high pressure switches, for the most part they were phased out by the late 90's. All JK's use a three wire pressure transducer on the line between the compressor and condenser.

The pressure signal is sent to the PCM(2007-11)/ECM(2012+). You are correct the pressure sensed will cause the system to shut down if pressure is to low or high.

In addition all JK's use a two wire temperature (thermister) on the evaporator core, when temp drops below 41 degrees the compressor is disengaged.

Up to 2010 JK's used a multiplex AC switch in the HVAC control head to send a discrete signal to the CAB module(instrument cluster) which broadcast the AC request signal on the bus.

Starting in 2011 the HVAC controller became a module on the network and broadcasts it's own commands directly to the bus.

The ECM/PCM only senses AC pressure and broadcasts that information where it is picked up by the TIPM. The TIPM uses this and other information to control cooling fans, AC clutch, AC idle bump and other functions. The TIPM will inhibit AC clutch engagement for various reasons including active cooling fan codes or pressure transducer problems. I have seen compressors replaced when all that was wrong was a bad transducer or fan.

The compressor uses a simple electromechanical clutch which attracts two plates together when power and ground are applied to the coil. The clutch can be tested by unplugging the two wire connector and applying ground to the black wire and system voltage to the blue/yellow wire, the plates should engage.

The preferred method of testing would be to use an appropriate scan tool connected to the TIPM. The functional test will bypass errors in the system and attempt to engage the clutch. Compressor clutch circuit fault codes can be stored and are helpful for diagnostics. It is a good idea to test the compressor clutch out of circuit if you are going to apply power, the TIPM is already a grenade with the pin out and there is no need to take a chance.

Be aware current Mopar compressors are having issues with the front seals, oil and Freon leaks onto the belt. We have installed a few that are now being replaced under warranty, Mopar is aware of the problem and hopefully it is fixed by now.
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Old 07-10-2015, 12:34 PM   #14
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That has to be the most intense way to say there is a safety feature lol
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Old 07-29-2015, 12:20 PM
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I ended up working with Chrysler and they are covering the cost (except for a 100$ copay on my part) of the repair work at a Jeep dealer. The jeep dealer quoted me $500-700$. They said there was a part internal in the compressor that appeared to have an issue and if replacing that worked it would be $500 or so, although it could of been the pulley and the failed part which would make it in the $700 range.

They have completed the repair and I'm picking it up in a few hours and I'll update this post with more detailed information as to what part was failed (in case anyone is curious).
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Old 07-29-2015, 12:23 PM   #16
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yup curious!
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:01 PM
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So they replaced the compressor coil and pulley kit. The compressor turns on now but sounds unhealthy and very loud. Compared to my old 2007 Liberty and my wife's Pontiac, it sounds like something is dying. Kind of a whiny fan noise, and just sounds very rough. Blows slightly colder then outside temperature air. If I keep the engine in the 3-4k rpm range it gets noticeable colder, but as soon as it goes back to idle or 1500 rpm it is back to "room temperature". Had the soft top fully installed and put my hard-doors back on for all of this to try and keep the Jeep as "air tight" as possible.

Granted it was a 98 degree day today, but I still expect a lot more out of a still fairly new jeep (2013, 63,000 miles). I've called the Jeep Dealer back and will be bringing it back in Friday for further diagnosis. Even 10 minutes after I left the dealer, they were unwilling to have someone come out and sit inside the vehicle to see\hear what I was trying to tell them. Regardless I'll call Chrysler support tomorrow and update my case manager. So far this has only cost me 99$ for a diagnosis, and a 100$ deductible. The rest Chrysler has covered on a goodwill basis.
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:12 PM   #18
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honestly they should have replaced the whole compressor and saved themselves the trouble of piecing it together like it sounds like their about to do
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:22 PM   #19
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Cpike, is this the same dealer that gave you the run-around with this problem before? If so then I would demand that another dealer fix what your incompetent dealer is unable to.
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:43 PM   #20
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sounds like a bad compressor or low Freon...due to the noise/not working unless at high rpms id lean towards bad compressor....if your ac system was really not used for 2 years. that alone can cause Freon to leak out


as far as jeep service goes... ive been really disappointed...it took me 3 visits and contacting chrsyler to get a simple/easy to duplicate brake noise fixed. the first 2 visits they did the cheapest thing they could(much like your coil and pulley). and punted my jeep back to me not fixed...

good luck..i hope they fix it this time around
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:17 AM   #21
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Compressors are about 600 bucks with a clutch
seriously?

My f250's compressor was like $130. There is no way an ac compressor can cost $600

It very well might. I cant even find it on any of the big name auto parts websites.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:58 AM   #22
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seriously?

My f250's compressor was like $130. There is no way an ac compressor can cost $600

It very well might. I cant even find it on any of the big name auto parts websites.

Jeep Wrangler A/C Compressor

Description: All Models DACP Part Number: 60-03534 NC

Special Price: $593.91 plus $0 Core.
that's through discount a/c parts. No idea why they are so high but the 3.8 compressors are half that price. I think the cheapest I could find was a Mopar one that was on sale regular $507 but the had it marked to $405. And no core charge? makes you wonder....
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Old 07-30-2015, 09:27 AM
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Cpike, is this the same dealer that gave you the run-around with this problem before? If so then I would demand that another dealer fix what your incompetent dealer is unable to.

Different dealer, I refuse to go to the one I bought the Jeep at and that I originally had a run around with. This dealer I'm not entirely pleased with either. I've had issues with them in the past but they are local (10 miles away from home) and the next closest one is a hour away.

I love the jeep, but dealing with the dealerships for service is seriously starting to annoy me. Maybe its a dealership issue in general, but I'm shocked at how poor service I get from them in my area.
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Old 07-30-2015, 09:41 AM
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sounds like a bad compressor or low Freon...due to the noise/not working unless at high rpms id lean towards bad compressor....if your ac system was really not used for 2 years. that alone can cause Freon to leak out


as far as jeep service goes... ive been really disappointed...it took me 3 visits and contacting chrsyler to get a simple/easy to duplicate brake noise fixed. the first 2 visits they did the cheapest thing they could(much like your coil and pulley). and punted my jeep back to me not fixed...

good luck..i hope they fix it this time around

Yeah I'm not impressed with any of my local Chrysler dealerships, I've had Chevy Dealerships who were customers of mine and who worked on my wife's Pontiac and they seem to knock their Service out of the park every time. When I go to a Chrysler dealer for any of my jeeps I'm left with a sour taste in my mouth. Luckily Chrysler corporate is still working with me on this issue, but its annoying. I have to drive the wife's car while the jeep is in the Dearlership.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:20 PM   #25
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It should be blowing nice cold air even at idle when it's 100 degrees outside. So they may have fixed something, but not everything. They're not done. Bring it back and do not except it the way it is.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:28 PM   #26
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And no core charge? makes you wonder....
Because it's brand new. The cheaper, older ones with a core charge are remans.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:36 PM   #27
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Because it's brand new. The cheaper, older ones with a core charge are remans.
Right but you cant get rebuilt ones without the old cores, just figured they'd want the cores to make cheaper compressors.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:41 PM   #28
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Jeep Wrangler A/C Compressor

Description: All Models DACP Part Number: 60-03534 NC

Special Price: $593.91 plus $0 Core.
that's through discount a/c parts. No idea why they are so high but the 3.8 compressors are half that price. I think the cheapest I could find was a Mopar one that was on sale regular $507 but the had it marked to $405. And no core charge? makes you wonder....
A new, OEM compressor can be had from any number of online dealers for about $370. Part number 55111374AD. The MSRP for the OEM compressor is only $535, so $594 for some aftermarket unit? That's just nuts.
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:25 PM   #29
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A new, OEM compressor can be had from any number of online dealers for about $370. Part number 55111374AD. The MSRP for the OEM compressor is only $535, so $594 for some aftermarket unit? That's just nuts.

Reman with clutch is 425 but it shows new with clutch at 594. Mopar shows like you said about 380. Its not aftermarket it OEM

EDIT: Im willing to bet all the mopar ones are reman that's why its 380, and has a 535 MSRP
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:25 PM   #30
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Posts: 1,317
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters2522 View Post
Reman with clutch is 425 but it shows new with clutch at 594. Mopar shows like you said about 380. Its not aftermarket it OEM
How can you be 100% sure that the compressor ordered from a 3rd-party, non-OEM company is an OEM part?

Quote:
EDIT: Im willing to bet all the mopar ones are reman that's why its 380, and has a 535 MSRP
No, it's a new part. The discounted price is just that, their discounted price. Buying brand-new OEM Mopar parts from internet-based dealers is TONS cheaper than buying the exact same part from your local dealer. My local dealer wanted to charge me something stupid like $600 for a new OEM clutch kit for my Challenger, they couldn't touch the $450 price for the same, new clutch kit from an internet-based parts dealer that I use.

Parts markup is insane. The $380 is not for a reman unit.

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