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Old 11-16-2014, 01:20 PM
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Accidently put dex-cool in my 2012 jk!

I noticed my coolant overflow was a little low about a month ago. I went to AutoZone and told them what I drove and that I needed HOAT coolant. I bought what the guy came back with and toped my coolant overflow off with it. Today I noticed a small amount of sand in the overflow so I decided I would clean it.

When I emptied the overflow I noticed orange gel like build up in it. I then took the radiator cap off and saw the same gel like coating on the cap.

The bottle says "Prestone Dex-Cool approved coolant"

What should I do here? Flush the system and put in mopar HOAT? should I be worried about the gunk causing any other problems? Thanks

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Old 11-16-2014, 01:40 PM   #2
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The gunk that you have read about, is caused from mixing HOAT and OAT antifreeze.
But you don't want to use Dex-Cool in your 2012 Wrangler, either.

Just pull your bottom radiator hose, and flush it out the best that you can, Also empty your overflow bottle. Then refill it with the 50/50 pre-mixed Mopar Hoat.

Then you will be good to go..........

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Old 11-16-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Dogger View Post
The gunk that you have read about, is caused from mixing HOAT and OAT antifreeze.
But you don't want to use Dex-Cool in your 2012 Wrangler, either.

Just pull your bottom radiator hose, and flush it out the best that you can, Also empty your overflow bottle. Then refill it with the 50/50 pre-mixed Mopar Hoat.

Then you will be good to go..........
Thanks, that's what I'll do
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Old 11-16-2014, 01:53 PM   #4
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this hoat and oat crap is insane. Even dealerships can not get it right. should be a class action lawsuit lol.
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Old 11-16-2014, 02:27 PM   #5
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That's why I just went on line and ordered Mopar 50/50 5yr./100,000 mile (Hoat) coolant for my 10. When you get Mopar OAT, for a 13 JK plus, it will indicate on the bottle 10yr./150,000 mile. It's confusing enough so I don't think anyone can blame someone at an Auto Zone or any other chain parts store. You have to do your own research and get the proper part, same goes with the new 3.6 oil filter cartridge. Many parts stores sell the wrong one and then when installed the oil light goes off. I know there's compatible coolant out there but I just get Mopar and I'm done with it, no guessing. Do what Old Dogger said and you'll be fine.
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:54 PM   #6
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I agree this antifreeze stuff is BS, I've never encountered this issue with any other vehicle
I've owned. I think when my warranty runs out Iam going to drain and flush system really
Good and put prestone or something like that in. Iam so paranoid that if I take my jeep in for
Any type engine work some idiot's going to put wrong antifreeze in if the cooling system is
Involved in any way. Has anyone done this switch with there say 12 and up JK ?.....
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:16 PM   #7
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Coolants

What is so hard about getting the right coolant for your vehicle? It is clearly stated in the owners manual what type to use. You really have to be smarter than the guys working at the auto parts store.

Since you've already started getting the gelling, you will need to do at least two flushes for your coolant system. That stuff will hide out in so many nooks and crannies that you will be surprised.

Always use jugs of distilled water for fill. I would pull the lower hose and refill with pure distilled water and run for a day and then do another flush and fill. After that, mix Zerex G05 coolant 50/50 with distilled water and burp the system.

I have slowly converted all of our vehicles/tractors over to the G05 so that there won't be any mistakes with coolant system additions.

I just had to fight the gelling issue with my son's 2002 PT Cruiser. The knothead that did the timing belt/water pump replacement used regular green antifreeze, which wasn't such a big deal in itself except that the previous owner had "topped off" the system with "special coolant". Well, bless her heart, she did tell the parts monkey she needed "special coolant", and they gave her DexCool. His Cruiser is now well again, and running the required Chrysler Approved coolant.

You have to look around to find the G05, but it is cheaper than the Mopar branded coolant, and meets all replacement specs.
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DryCreek View Post
What is so hard about getting the right coolant for your vehicle? It is clearly stated in the owners manual what type to use. You really have to be smarter than the guys working at the auto parts store.

Since you've already started getting the gelling, you will need to do at least two flushes for your coolant system. That stuff will hide out in so many nooks and crannies that you will be surprised.

Always use jugs of distilled water for fill. I would pull the lower hose and refill with pure distilled water and run for a day and then do another flush and fill. After that, mix Zerex G05 coolant 50/50 with distilled water and burp the system.

I have slowly converted all of our vehicles/tractors over to the G05 so that there won't be any mistakes with coolant system additions.

I just had to fight the gelling issue with my son's 2002 PT Cruiser. The knothead that did the timing belt/water pump replacement used regular green antifreeze, which wasn't such a big deal in itself except that the previous owner had "topped off" the system with "special coolant". Well, bless her heart, she did tell the parts monkey she needed "special coolant", and they gave her DexCool. His Cruiser is now well again, and running the required Chrysler Approved coolant.

You have to look around to find the G05, but it is cheaper than the Mopar branded coolant, and meets all replacement specs.
I've done a lot to the jeep lately.
-Painted the entire underside with POR-15
-Changed every fluid with Amsoil products
-Braks
-Shocks.... the list goes on and on. Never really paid much mind to the coolant type.

I didn't know the difference between coolant besides they come in different colors until today. I will use the method that you mentioned and use distilled water. Thanks for the advice
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:44 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Nick78 View Post
I've done a lot to the jeep lately.
-Painted the entire underside with POR-15
-Changed every fluid with Amsoil products
-Braks
-Shocks.... the list goes on and on. Never really paid much mind to the coolant type.

I didn't know the difference between coolant besides they come in different colors until today. I will use the method that you mentioned and use distilled water. Thanks for the advice
Sorry if I sounded condescending in my post. I first started having to really look into the replacement fluids for vehicles in the late 80's. That is when it was vitally important to get the right automatic transmission fluid for your vehicle. The MerconV and DexRon III were not compatible at all. The earlier Chrysler vehicles I owned used DexRon with a friction modifier. Later ones needed ATF+ series fluids. If you used the wrong one you were looking at a possible rebuild. The manual transmissions in our pickups at the time (NV4500 shared by GM and Dodge) also required a special gear lube due to sulfur content causing premature failure of the synchronizers. I hit the references to find an all-synthetic gear oil with a GL-4 rating. As it turns out, there were very few alternatives that met the GM and Chrysler specification. The closest I could come was a Valvoline product that was hard to find, and the dealers. Amsoil claimed to be compatible, but they wouldn't state that they were GL-4 rated. Now that we have the NV5600 in both of our tracks, I have been on a search for gear lube that meets the Chrysler spec. Luckily, I can get the Pennzoil SyncroMesh locally, and happily it appears to also be what is needed for the six speed manual in our JK.
In 2003 our then-new Ram 2500 needed a special coolant, so I started doing research on that. That is where I came across the charts produced by Zerex and started learning the difference. Our Chevy Dually needed DexCool, so the only sane way to prevent cross-contamination of coolants was to sell it and buy my 2001 Dodge 2500. CLick on the link and take a look at the charts. I don't think that there is a most up-to-date one there, as they seemed to stop updated the Zerex one in 2006. That is about the time that the manufacturers were going crazy trying to find the best type - OAT or HOAT. The O'Reilly auto parts charts can be misleading - they try to convince you that their generic universal coolant will make the world happy and end Global Warming. Don't pay them any mind. Their universal blend does not meet all of the requirements for HOAT applications.


ETA - here is the most recent chart I could find.

ETA #2 - Wow, just found this well presented post; complete with pictures and an excellent explanation of the different coolant types:

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...nt-thread.html

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