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Old 11-26-2015, 05:01 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 117
Air bump mounting

Hey all. I got ahold of a set of Fox 2.0 air bumps really cheap. Like dirt cheap. So cheap that there was no way I was going to pass them up even though my girlfriend made me sleep on the couch for a few days. I am going to be working on mounting them tomorrow but I have a couple of questions.

I am going to be making a set of cans tomorrow morning. The fronts will be getting welded into the stock location. Putting the cans in the same way the king bumps bolt in. The rears are where my questions are. Most rear cans get welded either into or onto the frame. From reading around on various methods there was one on Pirate that caught my attention and it made a lot of sense to me.

Air bumps work best at high speeds. While they can be tuned for low speeds they are not ised to their full potential. The idea I read on Pirate was to use air bumps for high speed,more vertical travel, and poly bumps for low speed articulated travel. I also read about a mounting method on TJs of welding the cans into the read coil buckets. Similar to the front set up on the JK.

Would that through coil method work on the rear? Along with welding the can into the upper bucket, i would also make a pad that would bolt onto the lower pad. (This of course, is assuming that there is enough space to allow the axle to articulate without destroying the air bump. Something that Ill have to check on install.)

If that wont work and I have to french them into the frame, I am going to set them for the high speed stuff. That means they may not work on articulated travel. At a low speed I dont see it being a huge issue having the shock bottom out (Ive got King 2.5 resi's). Am i wrong in that thinking?

Im on my phone and cant remember what my sig says so this is all on a 2011 2 door with rockjock 44s in stock configuration. Thanks all. And have a great Thanksgiving!

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Old 11-26-2015, 06:30 PM   #2
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 174
I'm not sure I follow the "high speed", "low speed" train of thought, bumpstops, regardless of air or poly or grilled cheese, should hit their pad at the exact same place going 1 mile an hour as at 50. The axle moves in the same arc no matter what.

I'd think if there was an easier way to do rears than frenching the frame, everyone would do it, so I'm not sure about the bucket idea. I think the rear coils have a pretty tight twist too.

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Old 11-26-2015, 08:33 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 117
What they were talking about was that when the axle moves vertically, such as hitting a bump at high speed, the bump stops hit the axle at a different spot than it will during articulation. The whole thread explained it better than I really can here, especially while on my phone. Essentially the air bumps would be mounted so that they bottomed before the shocks when the axle moved up and down, and rubber bumps in a different location that would hit before the shocks bottomed out when the axle is moving in an arc.

Its also something that most jeeps are probably not used for so most jeep owners are not thi king about it. Might be something i have to ask on Pirate. That or just pull the springs and start testing it. Im getting up to freeway speeds on some of the local roads and trails, yet crawling on others. Bump stops and wheel base are my limiting factors now on my speeds. Im trying to get my bump stops worked out as best i can.
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:02 PM   #5
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
Posts: 6,202
Do you need air bumps? Probably not. Should you install them since you already have them? Yes!

I have not really heard any bad things on the fox air bumps.

I wouldnt install them in the coil spring on the rear, it seems like entirely too much work when you could just mount them on the frame and install a landing pad (or maybe use the stock landing pad) on the axle. RuffStuff, Artec, Chassis unlimited, have all sorts of bump can options.
Billet 2013 2 door
Dana 60 front, 14 Bolt rear, ARB's, 5.38's, 35 spline Yukon shafts, Reid Knuckles, 40" Comp Trepadors, 3 link front, triangulated 4 link rear, 14" coilovers front and rear, Tom Woods 1310 front, Adams 1350 rear, PSC Hydro assist, SuperWinch 9500,
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:58 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 117
Absolutely do need them. At 70 and 80 mph anything more than the most mild bumps get thru my bump stops and into the steel. Ive been through several sets now. They just explode and fall out of the pockets.

I dont need to buy the cans. Im just going to make them. Already have the tubing, a lathe and a welder. Think ill just try a few spots and see how things work out.
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Old 11-27-2015, 01:14 AM   #7
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Long beach
Posts: 801
Pretty sure the bumps inside the rear springs won't work out well cause of the length of the rear coils and bumps.

If they're not already you'll need to shorten them up to about a 2" stroke bump, any longer and you'll be riding on bumps all the time and you will not like it.

If you can make the cans just French them in the frame in the rear where the factory bumps are and call it a day.

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