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Old 12-24-2016, 02:15 PM
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Alignment numbers?

OK, I finally got my last adjustments completed after installation of a RK 2.5 X-Factor lift and got the Jeep over to the service shop.

Here are the numbers. The left side camber number is a little concerning, but I think I have read that numbers like this are pretty common? I would probably prefer the caster numbers to be a tiny bit higher, but not so much as to want to do the work necessary to get another .5*.

What do the experts think?



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Old 12-24-2016, 02:22 PM   #2
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Yea, looks really good! Your caster should be enough, but you'll know by driving. If you feel like it wanders at speed then consider the work. I don't think it will.

I usually stop at .20 total toe on the high end. I don't think that is enough to make a difference, but if you get too high, you can get a little extra tire wear.

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Old 12-24-2016, 02:27 PM   #3
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Camber is not adjustable in our Jeeps unless you have aftermarket adjustable balljoints. Your camber being high could be a sign your balljoints are starting to go bad or possibly worst case scenario a bent axle. Do you have play in that left tire? New balljoints are the only fix for camber. The camber isn't too far out of spec.
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Old 12-24-2016, 04:20 PM   #4
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My passenger side was at .9 from the factory. I really can't see it causing a noticeable issue from a wear stand point.


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Old 12-24-2016, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstuck 16 View Post
Camber is not adjustable in our Jeeps unless you have aftermarket adjustable balljoints. Your camber being high could be a sign your balljoints are starting to go bad or possibly worst case scenario a bent axle. Do you have play in that left tire? New balljoints are the only fix for camber. The camber isn't too far out of spec.
I'm running all adjustable CAs and the ball joints are new Dynatracs. I did truss the axle, but since the out of spec camber is on the left side and the right (long side) is within spec, I don't believe the housing is bent.
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Old 12-24-2016, 09:24 PM
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Yea, looks really good! Your caster should be enough, but you'll know by driving. If you feel like it wanders at speed then consider the work. I don't think it will.

I usually stop at .20 total toe on the high end. I don't think that is enough to make a difference, but if you get too high, you can get a little extra tire wear.
It drives better after having the TOE set to a positive number. It was a little flighty before. But it still doesn't drive as good as my old 2011 did, with just a tad more caster.

I'm going to drive it a bit like it is and see how it runs at highway speeds?
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Old 12-24-2016, 09:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FootSoldier View Post
It drives better after having the TOE set to a positive number. It was a little flighty before. But it still doesn't drive as good as my old 2011 did, with just a tad more caster.

I'm going to drive it a bit like it is and see how it runs at highway speeds?
Toe in helps vehicles track better with straight-line stability. Toe out helps vehicles take corners and turns at higher speeds (preferred on race cars). Our Jeeps would be better off with +.05 to negative toe in settings to help straight-line stability.
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Old 12-27-2016, 01:36 PM
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After driving it a little with the TOE set where it is, I think it's pretty darn good right where it is. I had been thinking I might dial the caster up a little more for that highway speed stability, but the difference in where the TOE was, and where it is now, is making me feel like it's close enough now.

Not to say I would never get a wild hair and turn another .25 turn shorter on the UCAs, but it just doesn't seem necessary.

Besides that, I like the idea of the drive line angle being closer to 2* than not.

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