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Old 11-18-2014, 11:17 AM
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Auxiliary light wiring suggestion for power with ignition for multiple driving lights

Ok I bought rigid industry cube d2 driving lights, back up lights and 10" front light bar. Rigid industry instruction show power source to positive battery and each harness has a relay and fuse in line. I had assumed the relay would work to only turn on with power ignition but I guess I miss understood what the relay does. When I run wires as direction the on/off switch is live all the time to turn on and if I use aftermarket switches that light up will then stay lighted up all the time.

How should I wire so the power is only live with ignition on. This is on my 2015 Rubicon hard rock?

As you can see electrical is not my strong point....

Alan

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Old 11-18-2014, 11:37 AM
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:02 PM   #3
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The wire providing power to the switch would need to be connected to a power source that is dependent on the ignition being on.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:27 PM   #4
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I wired everything to the battery. I want the ability to turn the lights on without having to have the key on.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:37 PM   #5
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If you want to be able to run things with the ignition off, with aftermarket switches that have an independent lit section, and only want the independent part of the switch to light when the ignition is on, you would connect the wire for the independent light on the switch to an ignition controlled power wire. If you want the independent light on the switch to only come on with the lights and be dimmable, you would connect it to one of the dimmer wires. In any of these scenarios, you would still connect the power for the relay to the battery.
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:53 PM   #6
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QZ, greetings from a fellow Michigander.

I'm no electrician but have learned about this stuff enough to ask a few more questions:
1) Tell us what Jeep you've got..it could matter.
2) Do you know about Canbus issues that make it a bad idea to grab 12V from just any old wire?
3) Do you understand the basic theory behind the relay?
That is, quickly:
12V Power is wired from the battery through two pins on the relay to the lights (there's also a fuse near the battery.) The lights are OFF.
Your dashboard switch is wired through two other pins on the relay and when it's flicked on sends power to the relay, completing the battery/lights circuit . The lights come ON.
This keeps high power from going through the switch, since the switch only needs a tiny bit of power to cause the relay to do its thing.
4) Do you want all three sets of lights to only come on when the ignition is on? Or does it vary according to their function? They are all separate circuits so you must think of them individually.
5) Do you want any of the lights to come on (or go off) when the high-beams or, say, the fog lights are switched on? They can be wired/switched so that the high beam (for example) feeds the relay and powers on the driving lights. But they need to have a switch because sometimes you want them to stay off when the high beams are on.
6) Could you draw a picture (wiring diagram) of what you want for each circuit? That really helps you clarify in your head what will work, and whether you feel comfortable doing the job.

Because you're talking all LED lights the power requirements are much lower than if you were installing halogen versions. Some might claim you don't need relays in such circuits but I think you're going to want to do it once, correctly, which would keep you and your Jeep safe.

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Old 11-18-2014, 02:00 PM   #7
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You could also look at something like the sPod. Here's a write up on it.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/sp...ew-248059.html
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:06 PM   #8
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oh, I see it's a 2015 JKR -- question 1 answered...

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Old 11-18-2014, 03:26 PM
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Thank you all!!!

I think I will wire as the Rigid instructions and the light on switch to the auxiliary plug on dash that is only powered with ignition for lighted switch

My hope was to have all three sets of lights to only be able to switch on when ignition is on, but I am fine if live all the time and switch light wired separate as second best solution.

thank you
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:44 AM   #10
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oh, I see it's a 2015 JKR -- question 1 answered...

Commo
I have a 2015 JKU Sahara to which I am planning to add a pair of driving lights. I have always wired lights of this type, including on my 2008 Rubicon, to operate only when the high beams are on, using the normal directions accompanying a full wiring harness with fuse and relay. Is there anything that has changed in the Wrangler CPU programming that I need to know before I tap into a high beam wire, as I always have in the past?
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Old 01-01-2015, 09:15 AM   #11
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Huck: I'm assuming you're grabbing the 12V off the high beam wire to trigger your relay and taking power directly from the battery for the lights themselves.

You ARE looking at issues with the CANbus if you tap off the high beam wire -- with there being the potential to fry the relay as it's hit by the pulsing from the CANbus. It's basically pulsing the 'switch' in the relay constantly.

It's the same pulsing that LED headlight purchasers often see when they hook up their new lights without an adapter between the power and the new light, with some sort of resistor setup that smooths the pulsations...

Best practice would indicate that you have a similar resistor setup between the high beam power and the relay. Susquehanna Motor Sports (SMS) will build such a relay trigger into their high end lighting harnesses that will plug directly into such a relay setup.

I have that built into my SMS harness (for Hella H4 lamps) but haven't decided what driving lights to go to yet so haven't hooked it to anything yet..

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Old 01-01-2015, 09:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huklbery View Post
I have a 2015 JKU Sahara to which I am planning to add a pair of driving lights. I have always wired lights of this type, including on my 2008 Rubicon, to operate only when the high beams are on, using the normal directions accompanying a full wiring harness with fuse and relay. Is there anything that has changed in the Wrangler CPU programming that I need to know before I tap into a high beam wire, as I always have in the past?
I have aux lights wired like this, with only a diode between the relay and the high beams. The diode is so the CANBUS doesn't know the relay is there. I don't have any issues with the lights or the relay flickering.

The other option to all this is a three way switch. You can wire the lights to come on with the high beams, be constantly off, or come on as needed. I this is my current setup, and I couldn't be happier with it. Its a lot more wiring though.
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:26 PM   #13
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I have aux lights wired like this, with only a diode between the relay and the high beams. The diode is so the CANBUS doesn't know the relay is there. I don't have any issues with the lights or the relay flickering.

The other option to all this is a three way switch. You can wire the lights to come on with the high beams, be constantly off, or come on as needed. I this is my current setup, and I couldn't be happier with it. Its a lot more wiring though.
Thanks very much for the reply. Do you recall the specs for the diode you are using? Did you buy it off the wall in Radio Shack?

My wife and I recently moved to North Carolina, and I'll have to look into the inspection regs pertaining to aux lights, and how closely they're enforced. I've also been thinking about using the parking light circuit for the relay, so that I can use the lights with either high or low beams. The lights I plan to use are a pair of IPFs that are billed as having both high and low beam patterns.

How big a bulb are you comfortable running in your Sahara's aux lights?
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:28 PM   #14
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Huck: I'm assuming you're grabbing the 12V off the high beam wire to trigger your relay and taking power directly from the battery for the lights themselves.

You ARE looking at issues with the CANbus if you tap off the high beam wire -- with there being the potential to fry the relay as it's hit by the pulsing from the CANbus. It's basically pulsing the 'switch' in the relay constantly.

It's the same pulsing that LED headlight purchasers often see when they hook up their new lights without an adapter between the power and the new light, with some sort of resistor setup that smooths the pulsations...

Best practice would indicate that you have a similar resistor setup between the high beam power and the relay. Susquehanna Motor Sports (SMS) will build such a relay trigger into their high end lighting harnesses that will plug directly into such a relay setup.

I have that built into my SMS harness (for Hella H4 lamps) but haven't decided what driving lights to go to yet so haven't hooked it to anything yet..

Commo
Thanks very much, Commo. I will check out SMS; I'm not familiar with them or their products.
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Old 01-01-2015, 03:00 PM   #15
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Thanks very much for the reply. Do you recall the specs for the diode you are using? Did you buy it off the wall in Radio Shack? My wife and I recently moved to North Carolina, and I'll have to look into the inspection regs pertaining to aux lights, and how closely they're enforced. I've also been thinking about using the parking light circuit for the relay, so that I can use the lights with either high or low beams. The lights I plan to use are a pair of IPFs that are billed as having both high and low beam patterns. How big a bulb are you comfortable running in your Sahara's aux lights?
Sorry, I meant to include that. It's a 1N4001 diode from RadioShack. Easiest thing is to use a 3-way switch and wire it to the battery. I leave mine in the "auto" position all the time, so whenever I switch to highs they come on. Inspection regs will depend on where you are. In eastern NC, no one follows any of the laws concerning aux lighting. There are guys in lifted trucks flying around everywhere with aftermarket HID's in stock housings blinding everyone. I've never known anyone to get a ticket for them. In the bigger cities (Charlotte, Raleigh, etc) it's enforced more, but not as good as it could be. I'm running PIAA 520 Ion Fogs off of the relay. I wouldn't put more powerful bulbs in the stock housing as I've seen several cases where the housings melted.
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:33 PM   #16
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Sorry, I meant to include that. It's a 1N4001 diode from RadioShack. Easiest thing is to use a 3-way switch and wire it to the battery. I leave mine in the "auto" position all the time, so whenever I switch to highs they come on. Inspection regs will depend on where you are. In eastern NC, no one follows any of the laws concerning aux lighting. There are guys in lifted trucks flying around everywhere with aftermarket HID's in stock housings blinding everyone. I've never known anyone to get a ticket for them. In the bigger cities (Charlotte, Raleigh, etc) it's enforced more, but not as good as it could be. I'm running PIAA 520 Ion Fogs off of the relay. I wouldn't put more powerful bulbs in the stock housing as I've seen several cases where the housings melted.
Thanks. I'm in the mountains at the western end of the state, 30 mi west of Asheville. I'll probably use the parking lights for power to the relay and use the stock harness with your diode added between the relay and the switch, if that makes sense. There are times when I want the high beams on but not the aux lights. I appreciate your help.
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Old 01-02-2015, 07:10 AM   #17
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I'll probably use the parking lights for power to the relay and use the stock harness with your diode added between the relay and the switch, if that makes sense
You lost me here. Stock harness for what? You need to tie into the stock parking light harness with a diode for the relay "activation", and then power to the lights should come from the battery through the relay.

The great thing about a 3 way switch is that the lights can be on constantly, off constantly, or on automatically with the high beams.
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Old 01-02-2015, 07:27 AM   #18
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You lost me here. Stock harness for what? You need to tie into the stock parking light harness with a diode for the relay "activation", and then power to the lights should come from the battery through the relay.

The great thing about a 3 way switch is that the lights can be on constantly, off constantly, or on automatically with the high beams.
"Great" for you, but that's not what I want. Thanks again.

I understand. I will add a diode in the lead that goes to the relay in the harness that came with the lights. The harness also includes a separate wire to the battery for power.

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