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Old 05-14-2018, 02:59 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected]&M Racing View Post
The transmission skid plate must be completely removed to gain access to the mounting points for the gas tank. Once removed you will then have access to the 7 bolts for the gas tank. 5 of the 7 bolts are removed, while the remaining 2 will be loosened to allow the gas tank to slightly drop down (the gas tank needs a jack for support, the gas tank does not come off of the vehicle). By lowering the gas tank you will then have access to the passenger side hardware for the transmission crossmember. Once the transmission is supported all 4 bolts are removed allowing the transmission to drop down 2.00"-4.00" to allow removal of the shifter "donut" gasket.

I have included a link to the B&M Racing Shifter installation instructions below. If you have additional questions please feel free to PM me or contact us at 707-544-4761.

Installation instructions here

- Jason @ B&M Racing
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:52 AM   #32
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So these are some pix of the underside of a JK 2 door. Do I have to remove the two bolts at the crossmember and loosen the remainder of the gas tank skid plate bolts?
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:56 AM   #33
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I had to remove 3 bolts on 2 dr gas tank. front 2 that hold the crossmember to the skid. You can see them over my shoulder. The third bolt was further down the tank ans secured the transfer case skid. I have a complete Rockhard skid plate system. Now when I put the gas tank skid on then the tank must be supported.
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:19 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by terpsmandan View Post
So these are some pix of the underside of a JK 2 door. Do I have to remove the two bolts at the crossmember and loosen the remainder of the gas tank skid plate bolts?
Here is a link to the installation instructions for the B&M Racing shifter for the Wrangler. Page 3 and 4 detail what hardware needs to be loosened/removed.

https://files.dpbrands.com/bm/instructions/45195.pdf

- Jason @ B&M Racing
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:47 AM   #35
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Yes.
So do you have an Atlas in their now? 52060064AE shows up as discontinued and was for a 2011.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:02 AM   #36
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What i did is swap out the shift lever for one from a TJ. The 05 ans 06 use the 370 transmission and the lever is threaded 10mx1.5 which is the same as a Honda and the Honda 6sp pattern is the same as the NSG. I got one from a Chrysler dealer and it seems that 4wd.com has them in stock. The part number is 52060064AE.

https://www.4wd.com/p/jeep-gearshift...lectedTab=true

You sure on the part and year? 52060064AE says 2011. Is it more straight up and down than ours?
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:45 AM   #37
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Thank You B&M for the heads up. I am gonna try and bend the stock lever first, if that proves unsuccessful next will be the TJ lever mentioned above. I really dont want to mess with the Atlas lever being artwork that they are
The stock lever will bend but you will need to heat it up with an oxyacetylene torch or similar to get it red hot before you can bend it. I have bent mine so that I could run panel switches in front of the lever without the lever making contact with them. Remove it and get some water ready to cool off the end where the rubber cushion is so you don't melt it. Don't submerge the area you just got red hot right away. Give it a min to cool down.
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:06 AM   #38
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Sorry - I've been away from the forum for quite some time. I'm very happy with the shifter, and either it has broken in somewhat or I've simply gotten used to the somewhat greater effort needed to shift it as the notchiness is much less noticeable to me now.

If anything, I think the shifts feel more precise as it is not as sloppy as the OEM shifter was, and while I'm not using it to speed shift (I don't see me autocrossing the Wrangler), it's given me no issues on the occasional snappier gear change.

One thing to bear in mind with the video is that not only had I literally just installed it and not even pulled it out of the garage yet when it was taken, but that the engine was not running, so there was no movement at all in the transmission to aid in getting the synchros to smoothly line up.

I know it's months later, but I hope this input helps you.

-Pat


I have the B&M shifter in my JK. I actually have had it in twice. The first time it was stock from factory and the shifting was notchy and at times almost impossible to get out of gear. The detents were (being kind here) aggressive! After about 5000 miles I gave up as it didn't feel it was getting a whole lot better. I sent it back to Jegs and the guys here from B&M on the forum tracked it down and offered to make some changes to it for me to see if they could improve the issues I was having. I agreed to give it another shot.
They gave it a once over to make sure that it was ok then they changed out all the detent springs to something with a lighter rate. When I got it back it was night and day! a lot smoother feeling, never felt like I was stuck in a detent position. It would slide in and out of gear and you could feel it drop into the detent not trapped by it. And all this with a very defined (compared to stock) and short throw pattern. MUCH IMPROVED!

So in the long run I am installing a LS3 with a 6L80E automatic but for this summer I still have the B&M shifter in and it is great! I often wonder if the changes they made to mine were implemented into the production of the shifters because people seem to be alot happier now with them then the first run of them. I pre-ordered mine so it was one of the first out of production.
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https://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/ne...e-2149753.html

What am I up too..? Browse some photos here. (Imgbb link)
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f31/ric...s-2163905.html
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:05 AM   #39
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You sure on the part and year? 52060064AE says 2011. Is it more straight up and down than ours?
https://www.moparwebstore.com/p/Jeep...2059664AF.html

That is the one. I ordered one from another location and it was out of stock. They told me there was one available at a dealer in Buffalo and I called and they had it. Hope there are more.
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:09 AM   #40
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Here is a link to the installation instructions for the B&M Racing shifter for the Wrangler. Page 3 and 4 detail what hardware needs to be loosened/removed.

https://files.dpbrands.com/bm/instructions/45195.pdf

- Jason @ B&M Racing
Thanks.
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:43 PM   #41
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So do you have an Atlas in their now? 52060064AE shows up as discontinued and was for a 2011.
No stock 241. Just pulled the trigger on the B&M. Gonna start PB blasting the bolts. The T-case skid was off recently to patch the exhaust but the crossmember bolts are gonna be fun. Does the crossmember slide down easily or did take a few whacks with a mallet to get it to drop after it's unbolted?
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Old 05-16-2018, 02:08 PM   #42
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No stock 241. Just pulled the trigger on the B&M. Gonna start PB blasting the bolts. The T-case skid was off recently to patch the exhaust but the crossmember bolts are gonna be fun.....
Curious why you swapped out the lever then?
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Old 05-16-2018, 03:34 PM   #43
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Curious why you swapped out the lever then?
I didn't like the stock shift knob and didn't like using replacement shift knobs with set screws. I could never find one that would stay tight. I replaced the knob on my TJ with the same knob that I got for my JK. As I said before, Honda 6 speeds have the same pattern.
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:23 PM   #44
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And it will be here tomorrow.
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Old 01-24-2019, 02:28 AM   #45
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Hi Jason @B&M Racing , I purchased the B&M shift tower last year as I was tired of the sloppiness of the JK shifter, however just as RichL35 found in this thread I am finding the shifter to be extremely overly notchy to the point it makes it a chore to shift. I am wondering if you are able to help me out as I do like how everything is tightened up by it and even purchased the B&M shift lever. I tried calling into your support line but was told there was nothing that could be done to reduce the stiffness in the unit I have. I remember this thread and did mention that I had read someone had sent his back and B&M was able to make some changes to it but they didn't have any knowledge of what that might have been. I've actually had this sitting on the shelf as I pulled it out since I was not happy with it, any help you could provide would be great. If there are reduced strength spring or some mod that can be done please let me know, I would not even be bothered to void the warranty if there is a way to make this usable for me.
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Old 02-26-2019, 02:38 AM   #46
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I've actually had this sitting on the shelf as I pulled it out since I was not happy with it, any help you could provide would be great. If there are reduced strength spring or some mod that can be done please let me know, I would not even be bothered to void the warranty if there is a way to make this usable for me.

Hello J_colter, I'm curious if you ever got a reply or suggestion from B&M about modifying your shifter? I've read allot about this, want to get one myself but can't help but be hesitant, I wouldn't think twice if I knew there was a choice in detent springs or a kit to do it yourself (if possible). It would be great to hear more input about this matter if anyone can update the info here. Thanks -
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Old 02-26-2019, 11:25 AM   #47
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No response I private messaged them direct and their mailbox is full here. Going to try and reach out directly and see if I can track down Jason.
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