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Old 02-27-2016, 03:59 PM
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Ball Joints job and additonal WHAT?

Last year or so I got some Synergy Ball Joints from a neighbor and thinking of putting them on this Spring.

As long as I'm pulling off the wheels and brake assemblies, I wonder what else would be hella convenient to do while it's already tore down that far?

Grease the wheel bearings \ axles?

Thoughts or suggestions?

Thx

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Old 02-27-2016, 05:37 PM   #2
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You can't grease the unit bearings as they are a "unit" and are sealed. You can replace them if they year are high mileage. You can install c gussets and any other axle armor of your choice. You can also swap ujoints (go with the sealed spicers with no grease zerks). Or you can go full retard and get a chromoly axle kit that comes with ujoints and full circle clips (I use ten factory)

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Old 02-28-2016, 03:15 PM
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The brakes on the front are too new, I'm running 35's all around.

I already own these - Synergy Manufacturing 8009-12 Jeep JK/WJ Dana 30/44 HD Ball Joint Set

I see this on Amazon = Timken HA590242 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly

Are there some other brand and prices that are better in some way?

And for U-Joints: MOPAR vs AC DELCO vs SPICER . . . same question, is the mopar price worth the extra cost, is warranty a consideration?

What about the Synergy Manufacturing 8012-02 Jeep JK Front Dana 30/44 Inner C Gusset ? Keep in mind that I'm a camper, not a crawler.

Thx for the info!
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:54 PM   #4
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I would do the Inner C Gussets while the BJ are being replaced. It is relatively inexpensive to have them welded on. I run both the Synergy BJ & Gussets. I also did the Synergy axle sleeves but it doesn't sound like that would be necessary for you.

I also did the Timken wheel bearing hub assembly when I did the BJ & gussets. My jeep was used with 70,000 mi when I bought it so I eventually upgraded everything underneath of the jeep.
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:03 PM
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My Wrangler has 89k, I doubt these things have been done before. I hear odd knocking\knuckling that I can also feel in certain turns etc, a sense that something is wrong but I can't identify and that mechanics haven't determined.

I don't weld, and the guy I want to pay to help me get this done and done doesn't either.

Renting the additional tools from the parts store is cool, but idk about trying to get welding done so that might not happen.

I see a lot of logging roads, it just seems like the ball joints, bearings and u-joints would be the things to do.

Is there a wiggle wiggle wiggle test I should rely on?
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Old 02-29-2016, 06:36 PM   #6
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Here is a link to diagnosing front end problems.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/di...les-78034.html
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Old 02-29-2016, 06:40 PM   #7
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Good time to have gussets burned on, since the ball joints are out.

You could consider all kinds of things depending on your plan. Big brake kit, swap in some alloy axles and hold your stocks for trail spares.
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:29 PM
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Big brake kit sounds interesting!

So I think it boils down to this:

There is NO mobile welding where I live period. My choices are 1) not do gussets 2) take my rig to 4wheelparts or to Northridge 4x4 and pay them to do all the work, in the $750 - $950 range or 3) get some inexpensive welding stuff from HF and try to do it myself 4) clean and deeply score the inner C and gussets and use the worlds strongest metal epoxy on it.

I can pay the high shop labor costs and sit in a lobby all day while they do it, or allow myself 2 days in my own driveway.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:33 PM   #9
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Big brake kit sounds interesting! So I think it boils down to this: There is NO mobile welding where I live period. My choices are 1) not do gussets 2) take my rig to 4wheelparts or to Northridge 4x4 and pay them to do all the work, in the $750 - $950 range or 3) get some inexpensive welding stuff from HF and try to do it myself 4) clean and deeply score the inner C and gussets and use the worlds strongest metal epoxy on it. I can pay the high shop labor costs and sit in a lobby all day while they do it, or allow myself 2 days in my own driveway.
If you go the HF home welding set up, be sure to report back. I did a little welding in Highschool, have always been intrigued by the idea of having a DIY set up in the garage.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:47 PM   #10
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If you go the HF home welding set up, be sure to report back. I did a little welding in Highschool, have always been intrigued by the idea of having a DIY set up in the garage.
I've used a hf welder before. Not my cup of tea. I'm sure people have them and love them, but I would never use one. If you just want to do basic stuff check craigslist for a tombstone around you. 250 for a Ac/dc rig, 100 bucks in ppe and you're good to go. A tad bit more for mig, less for oxy. But check the zoning on your house, a lot of times welding is not allowed.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:54 PM   #11
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D30 or 44?

Definitely Gusset the C's! If it were me I'd do sleeves too.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:27 PM
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I have a wrangler, it's the stock 30's afaik. The gusset reinforcement looks like a compelling idea, as the axle assembly isn't something you can just conveniently swap out.

Sinister6 I want your avatar as a decal for my rig


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Old 03-03-2016, 01:37 PM   #13
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I have a wrangler, it's the stock 30's afaik. The gusset reinforcement looks like a compelling idea, as the axle assembly isn't something you can just conveniently swap out.

Sinister6 I want your avatar as a decal for my rig


.
Actually it's pretty darn easy if you get a complete assembly. You don't even have to bleed brake lines.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:53 PM   #14
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I have a wrangler, it's the stock 30's afaik. The gusset reinforcement looks like a compelling idea, as the axle assembly isn't something you can just conveniently swap out. Sinister6 I want your avatar as a decal for my rig .
Swapping an axle assembly is easier than having the same thread on 10 different forums 😁
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:45 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=Unlimited_Fun;2441522 4) clean and deeply score the inner C and gussets and use the worlds strongest metal epoxy on it.[/QUOTE]

I vote for this method!!!
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:54 PM
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Yes but see, there are only a few rocket scientists like you on each forum, so I need to maximize my rocket science resources! JK! Ya I know it's obvious, but then again I'm sure you know what kinds of answers you see across forums. Here's the next canned response:

OK so maybe some success! I called a welding supply place who in turn made some calls and I found 2 guys that can do it, without charging $600+ like one quote I got.

These would be in the $200 - $300 range. One guy only has a 110v welder, but ARTEC says they have many success stories from guy with 110 in their garage.

The plan would be for me to pull off everything down to the C and shine it up, clean the gussets. The welder would come over and do the job, I would then clean that up and paint.

The next day I would put everything back together again with new parts = ball joints, bearing assembly, u-joints and maybe BB kit with new lines.

In order to facilitate the welder, I would have to do the tear down myself the night before. If I get that far, then I think I'll be able to do the reassembly myself too.

What say ye?
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:13 PM   #17
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Yes but see, there are only a few rocket scientists like you on each forum, so I need to maximize my rocket science resources! JK! Ya I know it's obvious, but then again I'm sure you know what kinds of answers you see across forums. Here's the next canned response:

OK so maybe some success! I called a welding supply place who in turn made some calls and I found 2 guys that can do it, without charging $600+ like one quote I got.

These would be in the $200 - $300 range. One guy only has a 110v welder, but ARTEC says they have many success stories from guy with 110 in their garage.

The plan would be for me to pull off everything down to the C and shine it up, clean the gussets. The welder would come over and do the job, I would then clean that up and paint.

The next day I would put everything back together again with new parts = ball joints, bearing assembly, u-joints and maybe BB kit with new lines.

In order to facilitate the welder, I would have to do the tear down myself the night before. If I get that far, then I think I'll be able to do the reassembly myself too.

What say ye?
Bunch of work but should be doable if you are handy enough that you know what is entailed and are already considering doing ball joints yourself when already armed with that knowledge.
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:08 PM   #18
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Yes but see, there are only a few rocket scientists like you on each forum, so I need to maximize my rocket science resources! JK! Ya I know it's obvious, but then again I'm sure you know what kinds of answers you see across forums. Here's the next canned response: OK so maybe some success! I called a welding supply place who in turn made some calls and I found 2 guys that can do it, without charging $600+ like one quote I got. These would be in the $200 - $300 range. One guy only has a 110v welder, but ARTEC says they have many success stories from guy with 110 in their garage. The plan would be for me to pull off everything down to the C and shine it up, clean the gussets. The welder would come over and do the job, I would then clean that up and paint. The next day I would put everything back together again with new parts = ball joints, bearing assembly, u-joints and maybe BB kit with new lines. In order to facilitate the welder, I would have to do the tear down myself the night before. If I get that far, then I think I'll be able to do the reassembly myself too. What say ye?
I personally would not use it 110 V welder on a job like this. Penetration is key on something like this. You also have to make sure that everything cools slowly so nothing warps. There's more to this than just slapping on some gussets and having a welder come over weld one side up and then weld the other side up only to find out that your C's warped now.
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:19 PM
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The warp logic is sound, if indeed they will warp from uneven cooling etc. So a 220v rig allows better depth and a faster weld with less heat? I'll buy that. Ya blanket required to cool slowly duly noted.

I've watched hours and hours of videos and read dozens of write up, I think I get it, can do it. I'm looking at some TeraFlex BB kit write ups now.
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:09 PM   #20
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As the man that taught me how to weld said "There's two things in a mans life that require penetration, and welding is one of them". Of course a 220v would do the job better. But it comes down to the man welding more than the machine. Ask him if he's done it before, look at a sample weld, quiz him on pre and post heating techniques. If he knows what he's doing then it's doable with a 110, if he doesn't call the other guy. Above all, if artec says it's doable then it's doable, no matter what people on a jeep forum say.
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Old 03-05-2016, 12:56 PM
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Thanks for all the opinions - I've decided to NOT do the gussets due to cost, labor and coordinated efforts. I'm also not going to a BB kit.

This is the PARTS LIST that I'm considering:

1) Synergy Ball Joints - I already own these

2) 5-760X U-Joints bills as heavy duty, fits Dana 30

3) Timken HA590242 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly = 1yr warranty @ $89.21 ea

or Omix-Ada Replacement Front Hub & Bearing Assembly = 5yr warranty @ $124.99 ea

4) 80w - 90w Synthetic Gear Oil fr & rr

Also one Ball Joint kit rental for ball and u-joints, 36mm socket, grease and grease gun
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:59 PM   #22
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Thanks for all the opinions - I've decided to NOT do the gussets due to cost, labor and coordinated efforts. I'm also not going to a BB kit. This is the PARTS LIST that I'm considering: 1) Synergy Ball Joints - I already own these 2) 5-760X U-Joints bills as heavy duty, fits Dana 30 3) Timken HA590242 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly = 1yr warranty @ $89.21 ea or Omix-Ada Replacement Front Hub & Bearing Assembly = 5yr warranty @ $124.99 ea 4) 80w - 90w Synthetic Gear Oil fr & rr Also one Ball Joint kit rental for ball and u-joints, 36mm socket, grease and grease gun
We all understand the cost issue BUT if you're running larger tires off road on difficult trails can you afford not to do the gussets???? And if you need the BJ's NOW, then now is the time for the gussets. Get quotes from our vendors here on WF, great discounts that may save you enough to do gussets. If there is a Northridge 4 x 4 shops near you get a quote from them.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:17 AM   #23
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Yes but see, there are only a few rocket scientists like you on each forum, so I need to maximize my rocket science resources! JK! Ya I know it's obvious, but then again I'm sure you know what kinds of answers you see across forums. Here's the next canned response:

OK so maybe some success! I called a welding supply place who in turn made some calls and I found 2 guys that can do it, without charging $600+ like one quote I got.

These would be in the $200 - $300 range. One guy only has a 110v welder, but ARTEC says they have many success stories from guy with 110 in their garage.

The plan would be for me to pull off everything down to the C and shine it up, clean the gussets. The welder would come over and do the job, I would then clean that up and paint.

The next day I would put everything back together again with new parts = ball joints, bearing assembly, u-joints and maybe BB kit with new lines.

In order to facilitate the welder, I would have to do the tear down myself the night before. If I get that far, then I think I'll be able to do the reassembly myself too.

What say ye?
What about having them do the welding with the stock ball joints in place. I know the heat can really mess them up, but if your going to replace them the next day what is the worst thing that can happen?
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:58 AM   #24
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There is NO mobile welding where I live period..
There are mobile welders in the area.

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