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Old 05-10-2019, 08:50 AM   #8881
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[quote=FLEX B;34325769]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetlau3 View Post
Let’s be serious .. if you run 35s you will want 37s . If you want to run fire roads you can just do it on 33s .

You sir are of a good camp. I will go to 37's when I'm ready to trim the body in front of the rear wheel, modify the wheel wells(front) and bulk up the "entire" front end and add armor ect... Until then I'll enjoy the birds eye view of my 3.5 adjustable and build-able lift as I look down on the 35's that will evolve into 37's.

First order (multiple vendors):
3.5 X Factor lift kit
4 Fox 2.0 Performance series shocks
1 Fox 2.0 Stabilizer
2 AEV Differential covers
2 PIAA Horns (low freq)
7" USB for IPhone
1 Touch up paint pen (Granite)
XD 137 FMJ Wheels
2 NHL Official hockey pucks
A slew of stainless steal bolts,washers and fluid
4.88 Spicer (US) gears front and back with complete pack
Ceramic tint for front glass

Starting the build next weekend and will immediately make the next order based on what I find while up on the lift.

Thank you everyone for your input.

Jeff B.


Not sure what this means . I did no front wheel well modifications and only trimmed the rubicon rails and did very slight modifications to the sharp sheet metal corners in the rear wheel wells . I run 3” bump stops with my drag link flip and have no rubbing on flex . Only clearance issue in front I had was rubbing the full front bumper .. which is now a mid width - no more issues

I’d go with c gussets before a steering stabilizer . Drag link flip and upgraded tie rod if the kit doesn’t come with those






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Old 05-10-2019, 01:21 PM   #8882
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[QUOTE=jetlau3;34325891][quote=FLEX B;34325769]

"I run 3” bump stops with my drag link flip and have no rubbing on flex . Only clearance issue in front I had was rubbing the full front bumper .. "


You're running a full 37 x 12.5 and had no internal rub(on a 2.5"lift)? What offset/backspace are you using?

I said it before and i meant it.. There is a lot I need to learn about this (JKU) machine. I've read a lot (and you see right and left is the way to go) I've talked to a few and their is a lot of variations to the truth. I'll get underneath and apply what I've heard, seen and know to come up with the best scenario for me.. No bs, thank you for pulling the leash in...

Jeff B.

Great pics btw
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:31 PM   #8883
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[quote=GuzziMoto;34325801]
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The stock steering stabilizer is fine. If you upgrade it, fine. But high pressure steering stabilizers can cause a pull to the left as I recall (the "as I recall" part is about it being to the left, the part about them causing a pull is for sure).
There are fancier units that have a pass-through shaft and they don't cause a pull, but they are more money. The Fox farkle version is ATS. The reality is the stock unit is fine. If you need to replace a blown out stock unit you can go with a cheaper low pressure unit from Rancho, Metal Cloak, or OME (or others).
Also, unless you are installing the gears yourself most shops that do gears will use the gears they stand behind. This can be a factor when it comes to warranty. Some shops won't warranty gears you provide as they did not provide them.


Yeah, you're right. You can see by the list that some of it is for looks(still functional).. My last build (w/the jeep included) was $12k. And it was my favorite Jeep to date. I can't put 40k into a Jeep and not have it be aesthetically pleasing to me at the same time. I look at the Fox ATS stabilizer, I won't need it anytime soon. Had the 2.0 on my last rig and never had a problem but also replaced the steering box with a Dodge Durango box so with the 2.0 never had one issue...
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:14 PM   #8884
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[quote=FLEX B;34326467][QUOTE=jetlau3;34325891]
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLEX B View Post

"I run 3” bump stops with my drag link flip and have no rubbing on flex . Only clearance issue in front I had was rubbing the full front bumper .. "


You're running a full 37 x 12.5 and had no internal rub(on a 2.5"lift)? What offset/backspace are you using?

I said it before and i meant it.. There is a lot I need to learn about this (JKU) machine. I've read a lot (and you see right and left is the way to go) I've talked to a few and their is a lot of variations to the truth. I'll get underneath and apply what I've heard, seen and know to come up with the best scenario for me.. No bs, thank you for pulling the leash in...

Jeff B.
He has fenders that have been trimmed for clearance, and rims with the right backspacing. 4.5" is probably the most common backspacing.
I have tube fenders, Mopar 2" springs, AEV rims with spacers for more backspacing, 2" bumpstop extensions, and 37" KO2s. They clear. I also have the drag link flip from AEV, but that is a hold over from when I was running more lift. It probably isn't required now, but it is too much trouble to undo.
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Old 05-13-2019, 10:37 PM   #8885
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[quote=FLEX B;34326467][QUOTE=jetlau3;34325891]
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLEX B View Post

"I run 3” bump stops with my drag link flip and have no rubbing on flex . Only clearance issue in front I had was rubbing the full front bumper .. "


You're running a full 37 x 12.5 and had no internal rub(on a 2.5"lift)? What offset/backspace are you using?

I said it before and i meant it.. There is a lot I need to learn about this (JKU) machine. I've read a lot (and you see right and left is the way to go) I've talked to a few and their is a lot of variations to the truth. I'll get underneath and apply what I've heard, seen and know to come up with the best scenario for me.. No bs, thank you for pulling the leash in...

Jeff B.

Great pics btw


3” evo plush ride springs with 0.5” puck spacers . So 3.5” not 2.5” lift . 3.5” back spacing on the machete beadlocks . Drag link flip with 3” bump stop front end rear . High clearance trimmed stock fender flares. Did some trimming of pinch seams and rubicon rails and also did some hammering of sheet metal in rear wheel wells


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Old 05-14-2019, 06:36 PM   #8886
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Hello, so I have a question about a lift. This is my 3rd jeep, however I have never installed a lift myself. My other two jeeps had 3.5-4" lifts installed by professionals. I personally have zero knowledge of how to do this. However, with that being said, this is an 08 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and I was looking online and noticed a 3" MotoFab lift kit.... Super cheap I must add, but I am primarily wanting it for looks. I don't plan to climb rocks, or do anything remotely dangerous Have any of you seen this lift, or installed one? It kinda looks like a leveling kit would, but its a lift without the springs?? I've never seen this until today, so figured I might ask the experts! Any help is appreciated!

Holly



MotoFab Lifts 3" Front 3" Rear Full Lift Kit with Shock Extenders for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:46 PM   #8887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HollyBurns View Post
Hello, so I have a question about a lift. This is my 3rd jeep, however I have never installed a lift myself. My other two jeeps had 3.5-4" lifts installed by professionals. I personally have zero knowledge of how to do this. However, with that being said, this is an 08 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and I was looking online and noticed a 3" MotoFab lift kit.... Super cheap I must add, but I am primarily wanting it for looks. I don't plan to climb rocks, or do anything remotely dangerous Have any of you seen this lift, or installed one? It kinda looks like a leveling kit would, but its a lift without the springs?? I've never seen this until today, so figured I might ask the experts! Any help is appreciated!

Holly



MotoFab Lifts 3" Front 3" Rear Full Lift Kit with Shock Extenders for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK
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Old 05-15-2019, 06:45 AM   #8888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HollyBurns View Post
Hello, so I have a question about a lift. This is my 3rd jeep, however I have never installed a lift myself. My other two jeeps had 3.5-4" lifts installed by professionals. I personally have zero knowledge of how to do this. However, with that being said, this is an 08 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and I was looking online and noticed a 3" MotoFab lift kit.... Super cheap I must add, but I am primarily wanting it for looks. I don't plan to climb rocks, or do anything remotely dangerous Have any of you seen this lift, or installed one? It kinda looks like a leveling kit would, but its a lift without the springs?? I've never seen this until today, so figured I might ask the experts! Any help is appreciated!

Holly



MotoFab Lifts 3" Front 3" Rear Full Lift Kit with Shock Extenders for 07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK
No experience with MotoFab lifts. But a 3" lift that uses shock extensions scares me.
A few points. The amount of lift you used with previous versions of Jeeps doesn't really apply with the JK / JKU. Older Jeeps were commonly lifted 3 to 4 inches while 2.5" lifts are the most common size with the JK / JKU. To lift a JK / JKU more than 2.5" (which is really around a 3" lift) takes dramatically more money / parts to do right.
The JK / JKU starts out higher and with bigger tires than the previous versions of Jeep had. So it takes less to get it where most want to be.
A great idea is to decide what size tires you want to run, as well as how you plan on using the Jeep, and lift accordingly. For 35" tires you only need a 2.5" lift. If you run flat fenders you can run 35" tires with no lift or a leveling kit.
I would suggest you read this thread and others about lifting you new Jeep before you waste a bunch of money on a poorly designed lift.
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:21 AM   #8889
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no experience with motofab lifts. But a 3" lift that uses shock extensions scares me.
A few points. The amount of lift you used with previous versions of jeeps doesn't really apply with the jk / jku. Older jeeps were commonly lifted 3 to 4 inches while 2.5" lifts are the most common size with the jk / jku. To lift a jk / jku more than 2.5" (which is really around a 3" lift) takes dramatically more money / parts to do right.
The jk / jku starts out higher and with bigger tires than the previous versions of jeep had. So it takes less to get it where most want to be.
A great idea is to decide what size tires you want to run, as well as how you plan on using the jeep, and lift accordingly. For 35" tires you only need a 2.5" lift. If you run flat fenders you can run 35" tires with no lift or a leveling kit.
I would suggest you read this thread and others about lifting you new jeep before you waste a bunch of money on a poorly designed lift.
x2
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:39 PM   #8890
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Thanks!

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x2
Thank you for the help. When you say the shock extension scare you can you explain why? Sorry for the dum question, I literally have no experience with this. Normally like I said I would have someone else do it, but that is a lot of cash and right now it isn't happening. I am shopping around for tires presently and am leaning towards Nitto just because thats all I have ever had on my prior jeeps, but am open to suggestions. YouTube makes everything look super easy, but I am thinking prolly not in this field for someone with zero experience. HAHA!

Again, thank you or the advice and help! I really appreciate it.
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:40 PM   #8891
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:19 PM   #8892
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Thank you for the help. When you say the shock extension scare you can you explain why? Sorry for the dum question, I literally have no experience with this. Normally like I said I would have someone else do it, but that is a lot of cash and right now it isn't happening. I am shopping around for tires presently and am leaning towards Nitto just because thats all I have ever had on my prior jeeps, but am open to suggestions. YouTube makes everything look super easy, but I am thinking prolly not in this field for someone with zero experience. HAHA!

Again, thank you or the advice and help! I really appreciate it.
Three inches is a fair amount of lift. To do that much lift using the stock shocks and extensions is a poor way to do it. Typically a lift that high would use different, longer, shocks that would work not only with the increased height but allow for increased travel. While shock extensions are sometimes used they are more common with lifts in the two to two and a half inch range. Additionally, a three inch spacer is also a poor way to lift. Using shorter spacers on shorter lifts is common, but when you get up to a 3" or more lift it is more common to use longer springs. Again, that would work with the increase in height as well as the increase in travel.
There are a number of two to two and a half inch lifts that would work really well. And that is enough lift for most. If you really need 3" of lift be prepared to pay more to do it right or be prepared to be disappointed.
The Rancho 2" lift with progressive springs, coupled with a set of their geometry brackets, can be a great lift. Around 2.4" up front and around 1.5" in back to lift and level out the Jeep. With non-adjustable 5000 series shocks you can get it for around $500, and around $100 more will upgrade you to their 9000 series adjustable shocks. There are better lifts, but not at that price. Pretty easy install as well.
If you have more to spend, I would look at AEV, TeraFlex, Mopar, or Metal Cloak. But there are other brands as well.
We have BFG KO2's, they are a great all terrain tire that works great on road and off. They are not a mud tire, but unless you do much in the mud that may not matter. Nitto, Cooper, Falken, Toyo, there are plenty of good tires out there. Just pick the one that suits your needs.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:04 AM   #8893
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Considering the addition of RCV chromoly to the rear. Any strong opinions out there?

Thanks,

Jeff B.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:18 PM   #8894
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Considering the addition of RCV chromoly to the rear. Any strong opinions out there?

Thanks,

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Nothing but great stuff comes from RCV. Other than them, Revolution. Let me know via email or PM if you would like pricing Jeff B.

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Old 05-17-2019, 12:14 AM   #8895
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TF 2.5/2.0 spacer lift questions.

This is a hell of a thread.

2015 JKU.

Hoping to pull off the 2.5" front and 2" rear TF spacers along with 1.25" wheel spacer to accommodate larger tires and leveling (285/75/17 Falken AT3Ws on stock Rubi wheels). This is mostly cosmetic. I won't ever push articulation to its limits. I drive in mud for fishing trips but no hardcore climbing and would like to maintain a mostly stock ride.

From what I can tell, it is probably smart to do bump stop extensions to be sure. Yes? Sized to match the spacer? I'm largely assuming as, while I have worked on my cars and trucks, I haven't spent any meaningful time under a Jeep yet. 4 year owner but still a Newbie.

I'll do an updated HD spare carrier mostly because, in addition to the heavier wheel/tire, I also have a bike rack that has one or two on it regularly. Make sense? Planning TF.

What I can't figure out...you know, after reading the 8,000+ replies, is whether the shock extensions, new sway bar links, brake line extensions or exhaust spacers will be necessary. Any guidance from the forum?

Thanks.
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Old 05-17-2019, 05:32 AM   #8896
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Originally Posted by Atalla View Post
This is a hell of a thread.

2015 JKU.

Hoping to pull off the 2.5" front and 2" rear TF spacers along with 1.25" wheel spacer to accommodate larger tires and leveling (285/75/17 Falken AT3Ws on stock Rubi wheels). This is mostly cosmetic. I won't ever push articulation to its limits. I drive in mud for fishing trips but no hardcore climbing and would like to maintain a mostly stock ride.

From what I can tell, it is probably smart to do bump stop extensions to be sure. Yes? Sized to match the spacer? I'm largely assuming as, while I have worked on my cars and trucks, I haven't spent any meaningful time under a Jeep yet. 4 year owner but still a Newbie.

I'll do an updated HD spare carrier mostly because, in addition to the heavier wheel/tire, I also have a bike rack that has one or two on it regularly. Make sense? Planning TF.

What I can't figure out...you know, after reading the 8,000+ replies, is whether the shock extensions, new sway bar links, brake line extensions or exhaust spacers will be necessary. Any guidance from the forum?

Thanks.

Welcome to the forum!!! I've never had a two door JK so I'll let someone talk to you about that.. but as far as that tire goes(nice choice) I believe its more of a 32 1/2 inch. If you dont over inflate, it will ride on the bumper giving it extra support. That way you don't have to invest right away and focus on other things initially that may be more important. Obviously when you start adding things like bikes and fuel cans ect... you'll want something more accommodating.
Good luck with the rig and don't forget to wave.
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Old 05-17-2019, 05:56 AM   #8897
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This is a hell of a thread.

2015 JKU.

Hoping to pull off the 2.5" front and 2" rear TF spacers along with 1.25" wheel spacer to accommodate larger tires and leveling (285/75/17 Falken AT3Ws on stock Rubi wheels). This is mostly cosmetic. I won't ever push articulation to its limits. I drive in mud for fishing trips but no hardcore climbing and would like to maintain a mostly stock ride.

From what I can tell, it is probably smart to do bump stop extensions to be sure. Yes? Sized to match the spacer? I'm largely assuming as, while I have worked on my cars and trucks, I haven't spent any meaningful time under a Jeep yet. 4 year owner but still a Newbie.

I'll do an updated HD spare carrier mostly because, in addition to the heavier wheel/tire, I also have a bike rack that has one or two on it regularly. Make sense? Planning TF.

What I can't figure out...you know, after reading the 8,000+ replies, is whether the shock extensions, new sway bar links, brake line extensions or exhaust spacers will be necessary. Any guidance from the forum?

Thanks.
If you run the stock, or stock length, shocks with out shock extensions you would only need bump stop extensions if you run a larger tire that would otherwise rub without the bump stop extensions. Bump stop extensions primarily server two purposes. They can be used to stop up travel earlier to prevent shocks that have a longer compressed length from bottoming, and they can be used to prevent larger tires from rubbing when the suspension is compressed. The down side to bump stop extensions is that they limit up travel, obviously. So, if you use them when you do not need them you would loose up travel and up travel can be a good thing. If you don't need bump stop extensions for either of the reasons mentioned I would recommend you avoid running them. Often lifts like the TeraFlex 2.5" budget boost or the Rancho 2" progressive spring lift include front bump stop extensions. But you do not always need to run them, only if you run the shock extensions or if you run shocks that have a longer compressed length that would otherwise bottom the shock before the stock bump stops halt upward suspension travel.
Exhaust spacers (or better yet an aftermarket drive shaft) is only required when you run shocks that have an extended length long enough that when the front suspension droops (extends) all the way the drive shaft makes contact with the exhaust crossover. This melts the boot over the slip joint on the drive shaft and eventually results in premature drive shaft failure. The exhaust extensions move the exhaust crossover back just a little so that it doesn't make contact. But they also tend to move the exhaust down as well as back and some don't like that from a clearance perspective.
If you are running stock shocks with no extensions you really don't need longer sway bar links. That would be because the overall range of travel would be as original. But as soon as you start using shock extensions and / or longer shocks you likely will want to address sway bar link length. Common is to add longer links in the back and use the back links up front. But I am using longer links in back and quick disconnect links up front. Being able to quickly and easily disconnect the front sway bar is a great feature. The Rubicons have a button, but even with that being able to take the front sway bar completely out of the picture is a great feature to have if you off road much.
The TF spare tire carrier is a tried and true option. There are other, sometimes cheaper, options., But I don't think you can go wrong with the TF version. You may not "need" the carrier with that size tire, but it can't hurt.
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:07 AM   #8898
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If you run the stock, or stock length, shocks with out shock extensions you would only need bump stop extensions if you run a larger tire that would otherwise rub without the bump stop extensions. Bump stop extensions primarily server two purposes. They can be used to stop up travel earlier to prevent shocks that have a longer compressed length from bottoming, and they can be used to prevent larger tires from rubbing when the suspension is compressed. The down side to bump stop extensions is that they limit up travel, obviously. So, if you use them when you do not need them you would loose up travel and up travel can be a good thing. If you don't need bump stop extensions for either of the reasons mentioned I would recommend you avoid running them. Often lifts like the TeraFlex 2.5" budget boost or the Rancho 2" progressive spring lift include front bump stop extensions. But you do not always need to run them, only if you run the shock extensions or if you run shocks that have a longer compressed length that would otherwise bottom the shock before the stock bump stops halt upward suspension travel.
Exhaust spacers (or better yet an aftermarket drive shaft) is only required when you run shocks that have an extended length long enough that when the front suspension droops (extends) all the way the drive shaft makes contact with the exhaust crossover. This melts the boot over the slip joint on the drive shaft and eventually results in premature drive shaft failure. The exhaust extensions move the exhaust crossover back just a little so that it doesn't make contact. But they also tend to move the exhaust down as well as back and some don't like that from a clearance perspective.
If you are running stock shocks with no extensions you really don't need longer sway bar links. That would be because the overall range of travel would be as original. But as soon as you start using shock extensions and / or longer shocks you likely will want to address sway bar link length. Common is to add longer links in the back and use the back links up front. But I am using longer links in back and quick disconnect links up front. Being able to quickly and easily disconnect the front sway bar is a great feature. The Rubicons have a button, but even with that being able to take the front sway bar completely out of the picture is a great feature to have if you off road much.
The TF spare tire carrier is a tried and true option. There are other, sometimes cheaper, options., But I don't think you can go wrong with the TF version. You may not "need" the carrier with that size tire, but it can't hurt.
This is super helpful. Sounds like with limited to zero full articulation activities and my target tire size, I might be able to start with just the four spacers and see where things sit. I tend to over-engineer things (I have a tree swing in my backyard that would hold a 750 lbs man and you should see my kids' monkey bars), so I am glad to be talked off the ledge with regard to all the 'just in case' elements of a small spacer lift. Reality is that I'm on asphalt 99% of the time save my handful of fishing trips and the week of the year I get to park in the snow plow bank parking spots that nobody else can use. Thanks again.
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Old 05-18-2019, 07:27 PM   #8899
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I used the quadratech 3.5 inch lift with a new rear trac bar. Have about 30k mikes on it and it’s solid, favorite lift I have used to date.
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Old 05-20-2019, 01:48 PM   #8900
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Question:

Why would someone want to use a 2.5" lift kit and a 1"-1.5" shock spacer instead of a 3.5"lift?

Besides the reason they already had the 2.5 in place and wanted more room...

Thanks!
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Previous: 2000 TJ *Bish* lost 4k after rollover / 1997 TJ - Sold for more than I had in it / 1989 XJ - bought it, fixed it and sold for more than I had in it / 1987 YJ - kept it for 3 months - not my thing - broke even / 1963 CJ - 1st Jeep - sold it for more than I had in it...
FLEX B is offline   Quote
Old 05-20-2019, 03:20 PM   #8901
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Clear Spring, Md
Posts: 2,700
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLEX B View Post
Question:

Why would someone want to use a 2.5" lift kit and a 1"-1.5" shock spacer instead of a 3.5"lift?

Besides the reason they already had the 2.5 in place and wanted more room...

Thanks!
I did that for a while, and pretty much for the reason you mentioned, we already had the 2.5" lift and wanted more height. I had the rest of the hardware required, adjustable track bars and control arms, so it was simply a matter of adding spacers of the desired thickness to dial the height in to where we wanted it. It is occasionally easier to use a slightly lower spring and add a spacer vs using a taller spring and possibly ending up taller than desired.
In the end, we pulled the spacers, but perhaps one day they will go back in. We found it was too much of a pain in the A getting in and out at that height. But with power steps maybe it will work better.
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