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Old 05-17-2015, 05:57 PM
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Brand new JK died while driving. Now won't start.

Hello all.

I've got a 2015 JK unlimited that just hit 2000 miles. I was driving on the highway today and all my dash lights kicked on. My jeep died a second later and I pulled off the highway which was no easy task without the accelerator working or any steering.

The jeep will not start and every time I try to crank it, the same dash lights come on (battery, check engine, traction control, airbag, the light with the lightning bolt in it) and the engine doesnt even crank.

I had a killswitch installed about 3 months ago, but i dont think that is the issue because when i flip the killswitch while the engine was running, it doesnt kill the engine.

any idea on what the hell is going on?

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Old 05-17-2015, 05:58 PM   #2
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Can't help ya but be prepared to be told your switch is the problem..

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Old 05-17-2015, 05:59 PM   #3
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I'd uninstall that killswitch... Especially if you're going to take it to the dealership. What was the reason for putting it in exactly?
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:01 PM   #4
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Welcome to the Forum!

It sounds like an electrical/ignition/ECM problem. JK's electrical systems are cross coupled and tightly computer controlled. I would start by removing the misconfigured kill switch.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:12 PM
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Ok so definitely yank that switch outta there then. I'm pretty sure the switch voids the warranty.

I had the switch installed because I run without a top most days and I've heard of JK's getting stolen despite the SKID.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:18 PM   #6
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Remove the kill switch and get everything back to stock, disconnect the battery count to five and reconnect. Then try to start it.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:29 PM   #7
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You installed a kill switch that doesn't kill the engine?
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:04 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by AirForceAngler View Post
You installed a kill switch that doesn't kill the engine?
also known as "useless flippy click thing"
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:08 PM
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You installed a kill switch that doesn't kill the engine?
semantics. its an ignition interruption switch then.

anyway, i tried to pull the switch out, followed the wire under the dash to another wire where it was taped together and they run through the firewall all the way to the fuse box. i cant tell which part of the setup is stock and which was added by the security guy.

i guess ill have to give them a call.
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:58 PM   #10
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Bad battery or a short is my bet. Same thing happened to me few years ago on a motorcycle.Battery shorted out internally.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:27 PM   #11
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Same thing happened to mine with less than a thousand miles. It started again after about 2 hours. I had a cracked joint in a circuit board in the computer. All has been well since the new circuit board.

Definitely remove the kill switch before having it towed or taking it in.
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:51 PM
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ok i removed the killswitch entirely, crimped the wires back together and taped them up as to appear stock.

if they ask about the crimped wires, ill just tell them someone popped the hood and tried to bypass the SKID system to steal it.
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:52 PM
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Bad battery or a short is my bet. Same thing happened to me few years ago on a motorcycle.Battery shorted out internally.

i dont think its the battery. i have power to everything (all dash lights, headlights, overhead lights, radio, etc).
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:03 PM   #14
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Try disconnecting the battery. For ahwhile 20 mins or so let's say. Then reconnect the battery, when you reconnect it make sure it's seated down all the way, and nice and tight. Once you get it tight the connections should not be able to be wiggled. If it can its not tight enough. There's a funky design on the battery cables that can prevent you from getting them as tight as you need and it can cause electrical problems, this may be your issue. It doesn't cost anything to check,
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:06 PM   #15
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Take it in. There have been 14 & 15 JK's with bad Totally Integrated Power Modules (TIPM) which can cause this issue.
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:24 PM
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Try disconnecting the battery. For ahwhile 20 mins or so let's say. Then reconnect the battery, when you reconnect it make sure it's seated down all the way, and nice and tight. Once you get it tight the connections should not be able to be wiggled. If it can its not tight enough. There's a funky design on the battery cables that can prevent you from getting them as tight as you need and it can cause electrical problems, this may be your issue. It doesn't cost anything to check,

thanks man but i had the battery disconnected for about 45 mins while i was removing the killswitch wiring. everything is operating exactly the same as when it died on the freeway. all the dash lights that were coming on then are still coming on when i try to start it.

im gonna have the dealer come pick it up on wednesday.
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Old 05-18-2015, 05:00 PM   #17
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Did you look at your fuse box? There is a diagram on the inside cover.
I am betting the M29 fuse is blown. Which coincidentally is a safety/kill switch- shuts down ignition and fuel so you don't have a fire in case of a roll over or electrical problem. I had the exact same problem- no warning, Jeep dies, no power steering, but the dash lights work. Cranks but won't turn over. We replaced the fuse and it blew again (and again). Towed it. Dealer stated that my hydro-assist lines were zip tied and rubbing a wire loom-causing it to blow the M29 fuse. Not under warranty. Per KIK they do have bad TIPMs- which is what I thought mine was. But its been about 3 weeks since the simple repair and it looks like the dealer was right. If you're blowing M29 its likely from your kill switch install- which won't be under warranty if they figure it out. The dealer charged me $300- which I thought was fair because it took them a long time to find that short.
The M29 fuse is cheap- but if you do have a short somewhere it will just happen again.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:12 PM   #18
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Take it in. There have been 14 & 15 JK's with bad Totally Integrated Power Modules (TIPM) which can cause this issue.
This was my problem.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:36 PM   #19
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Take it in. There have been 14 & 15 JK's with bad Totally Integrated Power Modules (TIPM) which can cause this issue.
My 2012 has had two bad TIPM's in less than 40,000 miles. It's actually a Chrysler-wide problem. In 2007 and 2008, a bunch of Dodge Nitro's and Jeep Wranglers were recalled due to fuel pumps shutting off due to a TIPM software error. Hundreds of thousands of Grand Cherokee's and Dodge Durango's have also been recalled for TIPM failures. Some people are simply starting to bypass the relays in the TIPM for an external ones that can be easily replaced. Lots of Dodge/Ram truck owners are suffering the same problems (like losing trailer lights when when towing), including one guy who went through four of them. There are also some lawsuits in the works against Chrysler for ignoring this problem.
I sincerely doubt that disconnecting the battery will do anything. It is possible for a loose connection to cause such problems, but it seems like you looked there already. Part of the problem with the TIPM's design is that the IC's on the bottom deck will not just detect overcurrent conditions, but shut systems down with no warning. Besides, installing that switch shouldn't really damage anything. I'd certainly be willing to listen to someone explain why adding a switch in series with a wire would cause what has happened. Best of luck OP.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:43 PM
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update:

the dealership has had it since last thursday, they didnt figure out what was wrong with it until this wednesday. they said they are going to replace the PCM chip. which takes 5 business days to ship to the dealer. so i wont be getting it back until next wednesday.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:07 PM   #21
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Thirteen days down is BS. I hope you are in a rental vehicle. If not, you need to find a dealer to service your Wrangler.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:11 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by BigPapaHugeTime View Post
update:

the dealership has had it since last thursday, they didnt figure out what was wrong with it until this wednesday. they said they are going to replace the PCM chip. which takes 5 business days to ship to the dealer. so i wont be getting it back until next wednesday.
Thanks for the update!
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:13 PM
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Thirteen days down is BS. I hope you are in a rental vehicle. If not, you need to find a dealer to service your Wrangler.
nah i have my diesel pickup that ive been driving. i hate rental cars.

i can understand why it is taking so long, it was memorial day weekend plus that monday night the entire city flooded due to storms. so im sure a lot of the service crew couldnt get into work that morning.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:54 PM   #24
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My 2012 kept blowing a fuse when hitting a random bump in the road. Dash lights and cranked but wouldn't start. Finally figured out one of the 2 big wire harness plugins on the ECM/PCM didn't connect firmly. I wedged a roll of rubber between the plug and the fuse box to keep the plug snug and has been perfect now for 10k miles.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:21 AM   #25
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nah i have my diesel pickup that ive been driving. i hate rental cars.

i can understand why it is taking so long, it was memorial day weekend plus that monday night the entire city flooded due to storms. so im sure a lot of the service crew couldnt get into work that morning.
I still think 13 days in the shop is excessive. I took mine in on a Thursday and they diagnosed the defective TIPM while I waited. They put me in a rental car as I was going on a weekend trip. I picked up the Wrangler on Monday morning and it has been trouble free after the repair.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:43 AM   #26
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When I brought my 15 Wrangler in for an oil change last week to the dealer, they stated that there is a recall on the TIPM. They had to flash it and the entire process with oil change took about an hour and a half.
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Old 06-11-2015, 10:09 PM
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update: been busy so this is about a week late. I got my jeep back last friday after 14 days at the dealer. they replaced the computer and everything runs perfectly now. plus they were none the wiser that i had removed the killswitch and repaired the wiring myself. so everything was under factory warranty.

also my 35" BFG AT KO2's and my pro comp 7031's are coming in next week so im pretty excited.

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