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Old 11-23-2019, 10:22 AM
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Changing oil filter question

OK so my JK is due for it's first oil change since I bought it. I'm installing a Fumoto valve and doing the oil change myself. The only question I have is related to the oil filter. I've read all kinds of horror stories here on the forum about cracking the oil cooler housing, springs falling down into oil passageways, etc. and I bit concerned about screwing things up. Mine is a 2015 so I don't think the spring is an issue. But, how tight does the housing have to be when it goes back on? "Hand tight" is subjective. To one person hand tight is maybe 10 ftlbs to another person with big meaty hands hand tight might be 45 ftlbs. Is there a factory spec if a torque wrench is used on the housing? Or just do like with a spin on oil filter and after the gasket makes contact go 3/4 of a turn more? Thanks

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Old 11-23-2019, 10:59 AM   #2
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it actually has the torq spec on the oil filter cap. I go a little under that spec and have changed my own oil always and never had a leak. I use a high quality inch/lb torq wrench.
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Old 11-23-2019, 11:09 AM   #3
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I just turn it with a wrench until the filter housing contacts the base and it's tight.
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Old 11-23-2019, 11:11 AM   #4
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The torque spec is 18 foot pounds. I used this the first few changes until I too started reading all the cracked housing threads. Now I screw it down until the edge of the cap just touches the housing. I can feel the o-ring engage a few threads before so I know it won't leak.
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Old 11-23-2019, 11:15 AM   #5
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The cap is actually sealed by an "O" ring that slides into the housing as the cap is screwed in, when the "O" ring is fully slid in no farther tightening is needed so just screw it in till you feel it bottom out no farther tightening is required you could actually leave it loose almost a full turn [not recommended] and it will not leak or come loose
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Old 11-23-2019, 11:19 AM   #6
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I just turn it with a wrench until the filter housing contacts the base and it's tight.
Same here, and never had a leak. There is a little friction with the plastic lid on plastic housing, as soon as the wrench snugs - stop. In my opinion, no need to pull out a torque wrench.
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Old 11-23-2019, 11:54 AM   #7
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Same here, and never had a leak. There is a little friction with the plastic lid on plastic housing, as soon as the wrench snugs - stop. In my opinion, no need to pull out a torque wrench.
oh if you saw my in/lb jewel of a wrench you would pull it out every chance you got. Truly my favorite tool in the box and I have a lot of tools after 48 years of working on stuff.
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Old 11-23-2019, 11:59 AM   #8
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I can appreciate new tool justification as I do that all the time
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Old 11-23-2019, 02:07 PM   #9
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Make sure that you put oil on the O'ring. The factory recommended is 18 ft. lbs., I use 12 ft. lbs. And have never had a issue. This has been on both mine and my Grand-sons Wranglers.
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Old 11-23-2019, 02:23 PM   #10
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No torque, just oil the threads and O ring, snug it and it's done.
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Old 11-23-2019, 02:23 PM   #11
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I never torgue mine, I screw it untill the cup touch the housing.
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Old 11-23-2019, 05:08 PM
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Thanks all, appreciate the input.
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Old 11-23-2019, 05:25 PM   #13
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Yep I go what I call "wrist torque" with my hand all the way up the ratchet near the socket. It's never done me wrong. Soon as it stops, tiny little wrist tweak and done. It's the o-ring that seals it, not the torque. O ring does have to be seated though.
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Old 11-23-2019, 05:30 PM   #14
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If you ever crack that oil filler cap, it can purchased at Amazon.com for about $18.00. The cap is for both a JK and JL, 3.6L engine.

I keep a spare on the garage shelf. 8-)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

24 mm socket for oil filter housing cap (18 ft/lb torque)
ALWAYS lubricate the new o-ring before you put it on!


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Old 11-23-2019, 06:45 PM   #15
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Hi Guys! I may be new to Jeeps, but I put myself through college as a Mercedes mechanic. The composite housings are pretty much the same as used on Mercedes for many years, and rarely do they seem to fail. The biggest problem was from over-tightening and using the wrong size socket to remove the top. Screw tension really doesn't do any of the sealing - it's all in the o-rings. Take your time and don't be too scared of the process. I've probably changed hundreds of filters in M-B's with no issues. I think a lot of people aren't familiar with the cartridge type filter assembly and try to screw them on like a spin-on - you know, 1/4 to 1/2 turn past contact; and that indeed would be way too much!
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Old 11-23-2019, 10:32 PM   #16
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Clean the cap off Brake cleaner, install and lube new o ring, 18 foot pounds with a 3/8 torque wrench & 24mm socket, no issues at all.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:01 PM
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Got it done today. Went to WallyWorld yesterday and bought my Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5W20 oil. The only filters they had were their house brand and Fram Ultra for the JK. I'm still gun shy of the Fram filters with all the bad things I've heard over the years. I agonized and spent about 20 minutes on my phone looking for reviews/recommendations regarding the Fram Ultra. It looks like it's a good filter but I don't want to be "that guy". So, O'Reilly's is 1/4 mile from WallyWorld and I bought a Wix XP filter for it. I got a Fumoto valve last week so that went on after I drained the oil. The previous owner was a middle aged lady who had the oil changed at all the required intervals at the dealership but they didn't use synthetic which I prefer. When it came time to do the oil filter I got my 3/8" torque wrench out and took it off with the torque wrench. I started with it set at 5 ft lbs and tried it, then 10 ft lbs, 15 ft lbs and finally it released at 18 ft lbs, right where the specs say it should be. As I've never changed one of the cartridge filters before, at least not on anything since my 1955 Chevy pickup - I took my time. Slowly removed the cap waiting for springs to pop out and have the old filter self destruct in front of me. Nothing happened, came out nice and neat. The old filter was pressed fit into the cap so I'm assuming that's the way it's supposed to be. Cleaned the cap, oiled and installed the new O ring and pressed the filter into place. Gently reinstalled it and torqued to 18 ft lbs. Put in the oil, fired it up and let it run for a while and no leaks so I guess I did it right. Thank you all for your input and advice. That's why I joined this forum, there's a wealth of good information and experience here.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:15 PM   #18
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:43 PM   #19
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Congrats on a successful job!
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:59 PM   #20
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Congrats on getting it done.
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Old 11-26-2019, 07:21 PM   #21
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I would never own a Pentajunk, for many reasons, this being just one of several. Thatís about 90 or more years old technology! They were on about everything back in the fifties and sixties. Then they all got smart and everybody went to the throwaway canister type. It made life so much easier. I use the Ford Motorcraft spin on filters on my 3.8 Jeep and the same one also fits our Ford Escape and most zero turn mowers with the Briggs or Kawasaki engines. $3.65 at Walmart! Canít believe Fix It Again Tony went back to this crap!
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Old 11-26-2019, 09:27 PM   #22
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I would never own a Pentajunk, for many reasons, this being just one of several. Thatís about 90 or more years old technology! They were on about everything back in the fifties and sixties. Then they all got smart and everybody went to the throwaway canister type. It made life so much easier. I use the Ford Motorcraft spin on filters on my 3.8 Jeep and the same one also fits our Ford Escape and most zero turn mowers with the Briggs or Kawasaki engines. $3.65 at Walmart! Canít believe Fix It Again Tony went back to this crap!

The cartridge filter design is superior to canisters in every way. At least we can see what we are getting. I would not abuse anything with an elcheapo crapmart oil filter.
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:24 AM   #23
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Just adding in my two cents. I started changing my own oil on our 2017 JKU too, since I think $90 is too expensive at the dealer.

No issues at all with the drain plug or filter housing. I did a little initial research to know what I was up against, and everything went fine.

Oil filter specs I researched and followed led to no problems: 18 ft lbs or 24 Newton-Meters (NM) - (15/16 or 24mm socket).

Have a great day!
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:39 AM   #24
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The torque spec is 18' lb. Keep in mind that is for dry threads, on the cap and the housing. Typically there is residual oil on the threads making 18' lb a lot tighter than it would be if the threads are dry. I run mine down to 10'-12' lbs, and have not had any issues. As always after an oil change start the engine and check for leaks.
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:54 PM   #25
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The torque spec is 18' lb. Keep in mind that is for dry threads, on the cap and the housing. Typically there is residual oil on the threads making 18' lb a lot tighter than it would be if the threads are dry. I run mine down to 10'-12' lbs, and have not had any issues. As always after an oil change start the engine and check for leaks.
I oil the o ring before I put the cap back on, and torque to 18 foot pounds - any issue with oiling o ring?
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Old 11-27-2019, 09:32 PM   #26
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When I first changed the oil after buying my 2015 JKU a few years ago, I took a paint marker and made an index mark down the side of the cap onto the body/tube of the filter housing after reinstalling it with the new filter. As others noted, I also used a torque wrench, applying gentle, consistent force until I was around 15ft-lbs as there was indeed some residual oil despite wiping with a shop towel. So now I have a visual indicator and the torque wrench to aid me. At 62k miles now and so far, so good <fingers crossed>.

Though I still ponder what sort of engineer thought it a plus to make such a critical component from plastic resin...
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Old 11-28-2019, 12:41 AM   #27
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I recently had oil changed at local JEEP dealer. I noticed day after oil dripping on driveway. I took it back to dealership and they told me the filters housing was cracked. Is there anything I may need to know upon them fixing other then. It taking it to the 29577 dealership anymore like additional damages it could cause??
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Old 11-28-2019, 01:00 AM   #28
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I recently had oil changed at local JEEP dealer. I noticed day after oil dripping on driveway. I took it back to dealership and they told me the filters housing was cracked. Is there anything I may need to know upon them fixing other then. It taking it to the 29577 dealership anymore like additional damages it could cause??
How many miles on the Jeep?
Oil changes are usually done by beginers, oil filter housing replacement, while is not a complicated job requires slightly more skils and knowledge.
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Old 11-28-2019, 05:19 AM   #29
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I oil the o ring before I put the cap back on, and torque to 18 foot pounds - any issue with oiling o ring?
No you should oil the O-ring. I oil mine too.
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:41 AM   #30
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I oil the o ring before I put the cap back on, and torque to 18 foot pounds - any issue with oiling o ring?
Nope. I pre-oil mine as well, as I am sure many others do. Solid practice.
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