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Old 01-15-2016, 12:10 AM
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Cibie H4 Housing Parts & Install Headlight Upgrade

These are the items I ordered and received this week from Amazon for this Cibie housing conversion for my 2013 JKU I read about on this and a few other jeep message boards.

The main driver here is to install housing that puts the light where it needs to be. The stock housing appears to do a poor job of this. I drove my jeep tonight after installing these and the difference is well worth the ~$120.

(2) - $10 each - HELLA HLA-H83140101 H4 12V 60/55W Halogen Bulb

(1) - $20 - KC HiLiTES (6307) H13 to H4 Headlight Conversion Cable - Pair: Automotive

(2) - $41 each - Cibie 082440 Light Unit

The Cibie housing comes in a box marked Valeo which is the company that manufacturers the housing. Each box contains the housing and the rubber boot which fits over the base of the bulb.
The conversion cables came with a packet of anti-oxidant grease which I thought was a nice touch. There are also a few zip ties incase you break the clip off the stock jeep light plug in order to secure the harnes to this conversion cable.
Hella H4 55w/60w bulbs. This is the same wattage as the stock bulbs so your current draw will be the same.
You'll want to pre-assemble the housing, bulb and harnesses for installation. Side by side with the assembly this is replacing (stock on the left, new Cibie on the right with h4 bulb and conversion cable installed).
First thing you need to do to facilitate this installation is to remove your grill. You will need to do this to have enough room to remove the headlight housing. This is quick if you've not done it before.
There are some fastenters across the top edge of the grill(red circles). These have a center pin which needs to be removed. I use a screwdriver to pop them up. Once this center pin is pulled up about 1/2", you can remove the rest of the fastener by lifting up on the grill lip.
Once you have those top six fasteners across the top removed, you'll need to pop out the clips across the bottom (green circles) by pulling forward on the grill. Note that the turn signals are mounted in the grill. Pull the grill just enough to release the clips from the chassis and lower the grill by tilting forward and down. I put a towel on my bumper to lay the grill on in order to access the turn signals. At this point you could swap the headlights, however removing the grill entirely will give you more room to work. Remove the turn signals by rotating the harnesses a quarter turn downwards. You can then pull the harness out of the grill and set the grill off to the side.

At this point, you'll need to reference this thread as I neglected to get shots of the ring that holds the headlight housing in place and the stock wiring harness as my install was hurried along and I failed to get shots.

My main reason for posting was to post the links and decent images of the housing as I could not find decent pics of the housing online.

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Old 01-15-2016, 11:36 PM   #2
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Great write up- thanks for doing it. I did this project just last weekend on my 14JKU, in fact (except with the spendy Phillips bulbs). It's a nice upgrade, but on my old 08 I had the H4 conversion with an SMS harness and 55/65 bulbs and it was noticeably brighter than this go 'round without the harness- it's worth spending the money, IMO.

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Old 01-16-2016, 10:50 AM   #3
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I wonder what they would look like with hid bulbs
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Old 01-16-2016, 11:07 AM   #4
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I did this as one of my first upgrades on my 13. I built a relay harness with capacitors and diodes so that I could run a higher wattage bulb in them. Currently have a 55/80 and am very please with the light output.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:21 PM   #5
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Good write up I just completed this modification but added a wiring harness I purchased on Amazon. I'm trying this with 80 W/100 W Hella bulbs... So far I am very impressed with results. The bulbs are quite inexpensive compared to high-end H 13. Thank you for making the install easier!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o04_s00
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:36 PM   #6
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I also did this exact same conversion/upgrade on my JKU but I am using the Philips Xtreme Vision +130 bulbs and the headlights are much better than stock. This H4 conversion is worth it.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:31 AM   #7
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Was the high beam way better? Thats really the issue I have with the stock head lights.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:38 AM   #8
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Both the high and low beam are much better. If you use a heavy duty wiring harness you can upgrade the stock wattage for even more light.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:02 AM   #9
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I ran the Hellas for a while and sold them for the Cibies. I like the Cibie pattern and light output much better.

For lighting, I just went 55/100. The housings are plenty efficient and the 55's on low are fine.

Why did you use adapters versus a full on wiring kit with proper wiring and relays that are tied to the battery?
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Old 05-05-2016, 02:22 PM   #10
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I do have a question about the Cibie housings. Are they E-Code with the flat topped beam. I put Hellas on my TJ that came with the same bulb you have, but while they were better, I was not overly impressed. When I was installing them, I dropped one of the bulbs (good old butter fingers) and of course that was the end of the bulb. (It still worked on high beam, but no low beam).

Since I had to order a bulb, I actually ordered a pair of Osram Nitebreaker bulbs which are much whiter than the standard Hellas. When I was out at a Scouting weekend shortly after I was showing the lights to a couple of friends who have TJs with the original bulbs. They are now going to do the same modification I did. Here is the link to the bulbs:
Amazon.com: OSRAM - Night Breaker Unlimited H4 Super White Halogen (Pair): Automotive

They are also 60/55 watt so they will not overload the circuit. I like the E-code housings with the flat topped beam as the light goes down on the road not scattered like most sealed beams and even the stock JK lights.

Modifying the lights this way sure beats $500 to $900 for LED lights.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:42 PM   #11
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Mine are e-codes and have a very nice horizontal cut off. I ran similar on my FJ-62 just rectangular instead of round. I have been very happy with Cibie housings. I am I to mine for less than 150.00 and that includes the parts for building the HD wiring harness.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by PetrichorJeep View Post
I ran the Hellas for a while and sold them for the Cibies. I like the Cibie pattern and light output much better.

For lighting, I just went 55/100. The housings are plenty efficient and the 55's on low are fine.

Why did you use adapters versus a full on wiring kit with proper wiring and relays that are tied to the battery?
I didn't install the relay controlled battery wiring since I didn't know if I'd want to run more than just the 55/60 bulbs with the new housing. I'm happy with the results from the new housing and saved that $. The relay controlled direct battery wiring is not required if you stick with the same wattage bulb.
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:08 PM   #13
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I have a set of Bosch housings with a H4-H13 adapter connected to a relay that is hooked to the battery. Got the relay off of eBay about 6 years ago with no problems. Running Hella 90-130 bulbs. Really turn night into day.
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Old 05-23-2016, 03:55 PM   #14
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Great write up!

I followed your write and it was super easy!! I did use the Philips Xtreme Vision bulbs. I havent driven at night yet so I have no true frame of reference.
But like you said, it is like a 20 minute job if your "build" the Cibie lights before you install.

Way easy! 1-10 prolly a 2.

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Old 05-24-2016, 11:58 AM   #15
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I love my H4's too, big difference with stock and I'm still using 55/60 bulbs.
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:04 PM   #16
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I wonder what they would look like with hid bulbs
I believe it's illegal in all 50. Not to mention silly.
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:28 PM   #17
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I followed your write and it was super easy!! I did use the Philips Xtreme Vision bulbs. I havent driven at night yet so I have no true frame of reference.
But like you said, it is like a 20 minute job if your "build" the Cibie lights before you install.
Sorry to burst your bubbles guys but unless you guys are wiring these in with a separate harness connected to the battery via relays, you are doing it wrong. The OEM headlights do not have a full, regular 12vdc signal. The signal is PWM (pulse width modulation), like fuel injection or even some water methanol injection systems.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/cl...s-1054553.html


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I love my H4's too, big difference with stock and I'm still using 55/60 bulbs.
Same. I found that anything greater than 55 watts on the low beam to be way too hot - that's how efficient these Cibie housings are. Even comparing to the Hella e-codes, the Hellas have a shield in front of the bulb and the Cibies do NOT.

I ended up settling on 55/100 bulbs and it is perfect for me. In addition to the Cibies, I run Hella Micro DE fog lamps to fill in the foreground and sides. This I a good pattern. I use the Narva H3 +50 bulbs in those.

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I believe it's illegal in all 50. Not to mention silly.
Yeah, skip the illegal HIDs. Do any of the aftermarket solutions even have self-leveling systems like OEMs are required to have? That is likely the issue right there - leveling and getting into other drivers' eyes).
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:31 PM   #18
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After dropping serious coin on HID Projectors (I love them) but I wish I would have bought some spare headlights and attempted my own retrofit. Might me a mid range solution.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:13 PM   #19
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So I should "see" no improvement till I wire up a relay set-up?

I have my 67 Tempest headlights on relays and that was Night and Day better. Went from a yellow kinda light to a full one whiter light that you can see the future with!
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:35 PM   #20
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So I should "see" no improvement till I wire up a relay set-up?

I have my 67 Tempest headlights on relays and that was Night and Day better. Went from a yellow kinda light to a full one whiter light that you can see the future with!
But in the case of the Tempest you are talking about 49 year old wiring. I would put the relay in a 49 year old Jeep as well.

No, if you are using 55/60 watt bulbs which correspond to the factory wattage, you shouldn't need the relay. If you want to go with the higher wattage bulbs, then definitely the relay harness is recommended.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:46 PM   #21
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But in the case of the Tempest you are talking about 49 year old wiring. I would put the relay in a 49 year old Jeep as well.

No, if you are using 55/60 watt bulbs which correspond to the factory wattage, you shouldn't need the relay. If you want to go with the higher wattage bulbs, then definitely the relay harness is recommended.
Groovy. Cause with the 55/60W Philips bulb, I havent seen any flickering etc...

Yeah the Tempest high beams are killer since the relay. Actually, everything that runs on 14.4VDC is on a relay in that car. (Except the blinkers. which I am still contemplating........)
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:06 PM   #22
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[QUOTE=PetrichorJeep;25876969]Sorry to burst your bubbles guys but unless you guys are wiring these in with a separate harness connected to the battery via relays, you are doing it wrong. The OEM headlights do not have a full, regular 12vdc signal. The signal is PWM (pulse width modulation), like fuel injection or even some water methanol injection systems.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/cl...s-1054553.html

I wired mine directly to the battery with 90/130 bulbs but using the Putco harness. At idle they are fantastic but as soon as any throttle in gear is applied I start to see what looks like systematic surges in light. It's similar to a flicker but more of a definite cycle (bright then a little dimmer, then bright again). Almost every second. I'm wondering if the relays that came with the harness are complete trash. Other than that I don't have clue as to why these lights would behave this way.
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:45 AM   #23
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It's not the PWM you would have to be worried about it's drawing 260 watts (2 lights high beam) over a wire designed for 120. The lights that have problems with the PWM are the LED's because of flicker. In that case, they are still wired to the stock light wiring (they draw less current than the 60 Watt halogen bulbs, Quadratec ones draw a max of 27 watts) but have an extra module which is the anti-flicker module. Some of the high end lights have this built into the light, others have them as an extra modue that is plugged into the circuit right before the light.

Most of the LED lights are used not only on the JKs but on the TJs, YJs and CJs, so they have the H4 connector. The anti-flicker modules have the H13 connector at one end and an H4 connector at the other. I may have to put the voltmeter on them to find out, but it will not be today as I won't have time.

The relay harness is also useful for older vehicles where the stock wiring has started to degrade and provides an easy way to quickly bring those lights up to full brightness again.

That articles comment that the PWM in the lighting circuit only has 8 volts is surprising to me for the lights are not that dim, but could change the Kelvin rating of the lights which may explain why everyone thinks they are so crappy. I may have to put a voltmeter on mine, but it won't be today, as I won't have time.
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:59 AM   #24
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You guys should get this harness to get the most out of your bulbs. You want need the h4 adapters with this


http://www.rallylights.com/hl28130jp...gler-2007.html
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:08 AM   #25
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Sorry, at $120 is it not only not needed for 55/60 watt standard bulbs (same electrical load as the OEM H13s), but it is a rip off. The only difference between an H13 halogen bulb that comes from the factory and the H4 halogen bulb is the base and the socket in the housing. Other wise both are incandescent bulbs filled with halogen gas. The H4s don't flicker and if the same wattage as OEM they don't burn up the wires.

If you need a relay harness for high current lights, this one handles up to 80 amps (not watts, amps) and is far more reasonable in price.
http://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Rela...wiring+harness
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:28 AM   #26
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Sorry, at $120 is it not only not needed for 55/60 watt standard bulbs (same electrical load as the OEM H13s), but it is a rip off. The only difference between an H13 halogen bulb that comes from the factory and the H4 halogen bulb is the base and the socket in the housing. Other wise both are incandescent bulbs filled with halogen gas. The H4s don't flicker and if the same wattage as OEM they don't burn up the wires.

If you need a relay harness for high current lights, this one handles up to 80 amps (not watts, amps) and is far more reasonable in price.
http://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Rela...wiring+harness
The one I sent is a plug and play application that you use the stock passenger side stock plug as the trigger and just run the hot and cold off the battery. That cheapo harness is not plug and play in a Jeep jk and I have used that harness I believe in the past with some Led bulbs it was shit for quality. The damn thing went out on me in about 6 months or one side did anyway and I was out of luck since there was no warranty. Rally backs up all there stuff.
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:56 AM   #28
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Sorry to burst your bubbles guys but unless you guys are wiring these in with a separate harness connected to the battery via relays, you are doing it wrong. The OEM headlights do not have a full, regular 12vdc signal. The signal is PWM (pulse width modulation), like fuel injection or even some water methanol injection systems.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/cl...s-1054553.html




Same. I found that anything greater than 55 watts on the low beam to be way too hot - that's how efficient these Cibie housings are. Even comparing to the Hella e-codes, the Hellas have a shield in front of the bulb and the Cibies do NOT.

I ended up settling on 55/100 bulbs and it is perfect for me. In addition to the Cibies, I run Hella Micro DE fog lamps to fill in the foreground and sides. This I a good pattern. I use the Narva H3 +50 bulbs in those.



Yeah, skip the illegal HIDs. Do any of the aftermarket solutions even have self-leveling systems like OEMs are required to have? That is likely the issue right there - leveling and getting into other drivers' eyes).
Not all factory HID systems have self leveling systems…and it is not required. My son's 2014 F150 has factory HID and they are not self leveling. The housings have adjustments like the normal setups. They are not projection type..they are true HID. My daughter used to have a Mazda 3 with HID's…it had a manual switch on the dash that allowed 3 set points for the head lights depending on occupant load in the car. I thought it was kind of neat. We have had 2 cars with auto… an RX 400 and M6. Kind of cool watching them adjust when you turned them on..



Putting HID bulbs in an H4 housing is asinine and illegal in all 50 states.
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:12 AM   #29
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Something to keep in mind with the PWM is that it cycles the the voltage on/off really quick and if you don't add a capacitor across the relay coil it will burn out. You can build a HD harness for far less than what they sell for.
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:08 AM   #30
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$120 holy smokes
Really it isn't that bad when you consider JWS sells their anti flicker modules for $66 a pc which can fail, and trucklite sells Theirs for around $60 a set and I have personally had a set of those fail. For $120 you can eliminate the need for a adapter ever, the H4 bulbs will be plug and play and they will be brighter becasue the power is not going through the PWM pulsating system anymore. You pull power from the battery and still use the stock headlights switch, completely plug and play application. It will make the bulbs brighter as well because instead of pulling pulsating power, your pulling a steady flow of power from the battery. It took me 20 minutes to hook mine up and it eliminated any flicker I had with my Led Headlights.

I figured after about $90 worth of anti flicker modules had failed on me for one reason or another, that I would go a different route. Sure I could of built the harness for less probably, but I'm lazy and I was tired of messing with it. Sometimes it's just better for me to let someone else do it, my time is worth more than the $120 I paid for the harness.

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