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Old 02-02-2018, 12:00 AM
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Coilover Questions....

I'm down to 2 choices, Evo vs Rebel recon. Evo's cheaper but Recon is more bolt on friendly although whichever way I go I'm gonna get it welded on. Looking for Pro's and Con's , thanks.

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Old 02-02-2018, 02:00 AM   #2
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I've got a few friends that run the EVO bolt on coils and love them. Personally, I think that the front mounts on the EVO are stronger than what Rebel does with theirs. The Rebel does run larger coilovers(I believe 2.5 vs 2.0 with EVO), however, this requires the rear coilovers to sit even more sideways due to their size. From what I was told, this makes the coilover less effective.
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Old 02-02-2018, 01:29 PM   #3
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I bought and installed the Evo. I didn't like the rear shock angle of the Rebel in relation to the axle travel. The biggest con regarding Evo is their installation instructions. They are more useful as toilet paper plus the photos look like they were taken with a potato. I had to reference many internet images as well as use some common sense to install. Took about 3Xs longer to install than I thought (most of this because of crap instructions) but got it all on and works great. Rides better than I expected on the road (with 37" tires) and outstanding on the trail. Don't have many miles on them yet so don't know about long term but for now I'm happy.
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:36 AM
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I've got a few friends that run the EVO bolt on coils and love them. Personally, I think that the front mounts on the EVO are stronger than what Rebel does with theirs. The Rebel does run larger coilovers(I believe 2.5 vs 2.0 with EVO), however, this requires the rear coilovers to sit even more sideways due to their size. From what I was told, this makes the coilover less effective.
Heard that too and hence the lean towards Evo.

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Old 02-03-2018, 12:39 AM
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I bought and installed the Evo. I didn't like the rear shock angle of the Rebel in relation to the axle travel. The biggest con regarding Evo is their installation instructions. They are more useful as toilet paper plus the photos look like they were taken with a potato. I had to reference many internet images as well as use some common sense to install. Took about 3Xs longer to install than I thought (most of this because of crap instructions) but got it all on and works great. Rides better than I expected on the road (with 37" tires) and outstanding on the trail. Don't have many miles on them yet so don't know about long term but for now I'm happy.
That's awesome, what's your ride height?
And yes those instructions are horrible....did you have to cut the battery box on passenger side?

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Old 02-05-2018, 10:50 AM   #6
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That's awesome, what's your ride height?
And yes those instructions are horrible....did you have to cut the battery box on passenger side?

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I have it set at about 3.5" with 37" tires. Yep, had to cut the battery box. That was time consuming nibbling away at it then checking clearance and repeat...and repeat....
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:18 PM   #7
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Evo.

Rebel are 14" coil overs that only provide 9.5" of vertical travel
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:56 PM
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I have it set at about 3.5" with 37" tires. Yep, had to cut the battery box. That was time consuming nibbling away at it then checking clearance and repeat...and repeat....
Just the fins on the battery box though right? Did you try 5" ride height?

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Old 02-05-2018, 08:56 PM
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Evo.

Rebel are 14" coil overs that only provide 9.5" of vertical travel
Wow that's less than what I have now.

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Old 02-05-2018, 09:07 PM
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Evo.

Rebel are 14" coil overs that only provide 9.5" of vertical travel
What did you used to adjust coilovers

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Old 02-06-2018, 07:30 AM   #11
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Before you buy look at this guy , no I'm not affiliated with the company but I have talked with him and he has a great kit.http://accutuneoffroad.com/

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Old 02-06-2018, 07:47 AM   #12
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i am running the rebel offroad recon kit. there are zero issues with how the rear coilovers are mounted (from an effectiveness) standpoint. the axle still travels up and down in the wheel well without any restriction from the coilover.

the size difference and length of the coilover made it an easy decision to choose the Rebel Offroad kit over the Evo kit. i'll add to it, i have dealt with both companies, and the folks over at Rebel are more customer oriented. as i said easy decision...
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:23 AM   #13
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I have a hybrid JK . Besides burning both gas and oil, mine has the Evo Front bracketry setup and Rebel Rear bracketry, King 2 12inch travel on both.

I found the guys at evo to be much more helpful with the install and questions. Rebel the kit is ok but had to cut the brakets and turn them about 10 degrees for my 2 door so ended up doing some fabrication so the coils could clear the brakets without rubbing.. The evo front end was a breeze and very straight forward on the install.. Plus to the rebel is you cut off the muffler which is in a horrible spot in the first place. Now you do gain a nice flat area to mount things like compressors. I am usually about 4 -5 inches "lift" in the front and about 5-7 in the rear. I cant see anyone on a 2 door being able to dial the rebel rear kit down to 3.5 inches and have it handle well, I dont have any issues being a little bit tall because it handles like a race truck now.

Here is whats not in the kits and will need as you start to use it. Both driveshafts, for sure....control arms (can start with just front lowers to get it to drive straight on the highway) , i had to cut off the factory control arm mounts and beef them up after front upper snapped off. Adjustable track bars, track bar brackets, drag link flip, axel shafts, Im currenly saving up for the clayton long arm system because after driving it for the last 4-5 years like this I know what I would do differently from the start. I have lots of gravel and fire roads around me and typically go 40+mph while my brother in his more traditional setup can only go about 10 and is getting bounced around like a rag doll. As far as welding , I dont see the point , the bracketry on either kit is not likely the weak link both are very strong and mount to strong parts of the JK. To adjust coilovers you need a spanner wrench and might as well just go get a good powertank setup that can also do nitrogen as you will need it to dial in the shocks and it doubles to fill the tires. Its not a cheap upgrade unless you already have some/most of the aftermarket parts already. I tend to run 35s for mud and 37s for around town, 5.13 gears, it does ride very aggressively, not even close to factory, more like a Tank.

For the lift height it does very well on the highway, with an experienced driver.
its not gonna resell to the mall crawler/ family jeeper crowd. If you go this route you most likely already know that but would not wanna mislead anyone. I love mine and have no regrets besides not going long arm right away.
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:35 AM   #14
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I forgot to mention to get retention straps, especially if you are gonna try and get by on factory drive shafts, the incredible new flex will be limited till you put on some aftermarket shafts ( and even then you still want to strap it) or else you will pull your factory shafts apart even on dry pavement on things like rail road crossings, speed bumps etc. Lived and learned that the hard way.
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:47 AM   #15
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good couple posts @GetRDun

i had to modify my rear brackets on the Rebel Recon kit also, and that bracket is welded in. because i chopped my rear cross member, we had to fabricate a solution for that. a little more than a year after install, still very happy all said and done.
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:02 PM   #16
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Thanks Tabber.... Im glad Im not the only one with issues with rebels rear bracket. I would give them an 8 of 10 for helpfulness. They never would admit that their rear lower brackets are made for a 4 door and cant work at the same angle. So I deduct 2 cool points for making me think it out and use a plasma cutter and MIG when they advertise it asa bolt on kit. Lucky I have access to metal working tools. I think they also claim you can use all factory parts, which is hogwash if you actually want it to drive straight.
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:39 PM   #17
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Thanks Tabber.... Im glad Im not the only one with issues with rebels rear bracket. I would give them an 8 of 10 for helpfulness. They never would admit that their rear lower brackets are made for a 4 door and cant work at the same angle. So I deduct 2 cool points for making me think it out and use a plasma cutter and MIG when they advertise it asa bolt on kit. Lucky I have access to metal working tools. I think they also claim you can use all factory parts, which is hogwash if you actually want it to drive straight.
sure thing! it was a great post (or two)

in fairness to Rebel, they strongly suggest using the Recon kit with a long arm setup. no one (i repeat) no one, should ever assume a coilover kit can maintain factory control arms without some change. to your point... it just won't work. you're right about the rear bracket. i think they are receptive to feedback. they thanked me for all the pictures i sent, describing how without the cross member i made the kit work.

whether or not they do anything with it, remains to be seen. 8 out of 10 seems reasonable. good group of guys, who i personally believe genuinely want satisfied customers.
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Old 02-06-2018, 03:34 PM   #18
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Just the fins on the battery box though right? Did you try 5" ride height?

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Had to go into the battery tray just a bit. Maybe I could have avoided it and only removed the fins. There is still plenty of material to support the battery. To be clear removing the fins are to allow clearance for the Evo shock tower and ride height has nothing to do with the battery. I think the tallest I had was about 4.25"ish. My old TJ was stupid tall and I wanted to go as low CG as possible on this build so that's why I am running 3.5". I also wanted to future proof for 40s if I ever go that route, I wanted the ability to go taller if needed.

Not to dis the Rebel and I have never driven in one so I can't comment on ride but to explain more clearly my reasoning to not go with them based on their rear suspension...
Unless there is some kind of linkage system the spring and shock valving is most effective and efficient when it follows the stroke of the wheel as it goes through its travel. If the wheel goes straight up and down (Jeep) then the spring should follow that path. The more the spring deviates from that path the less effective it is. If the spring is at a 45 deg angle to the wheel path then it is less effective. If it is 90 deg it is completely useless.
Rock crawling is probably not as sensitive to shock angle and like I said I have never experience the Rebel. Both the Evo and Rebel were my top 2 and the shock angle was the tipping point that swayed me from Rebel to Evo. I'm sure you can't go wrong with either company. Both are quality products.

...and while we are talking about it I am running stock rear drive shaft, 1350 front, drag link flip, and replaced all 8 control arms with Evo short arms.
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:54 PM
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Had to go into the battery tray just a bit. Maybe I could have avoided it and only removed the fins. There is still plenty of material to support the battery. To be clear removing the fins are to allow clearance for the Evo shock tower and ride height has nothing to do with the battery. I think the tallest I had was about 4.25"ish. My old TJ was stupid tall and I wanted to go as low CG as possible on this build so that's why I am running 3.5". I also wanted to future proof for 40s if I ever go that route, I wanted the ability to go taller if needed.

Not to dis the Rebel and I have never driven in one so I can't comment on ride but to explain more clearly my reasoning to not go with them based on their rear suspension...
Unless there is some kind of linkage system the spring and shock valving is most effective and efficient when it follows the stroke of the wheel as it goes through its travel. If the wheel goes straight up and down (Jeep) then the spring should follow that path. The more the spring deviates from that path the less effective it is. If the spring is at a 45 deg angle to the wheel path then it is less effective. If it is 90 deg it is completely useless.
Rock crawling is probably not as sensitive to shock angle and like I said I have never experience the Rebel. Both the Evo and Rebel were my top 2 and the shock angle was the tipping point that swayed me from Rebel to Evo. I'm sure you can't go wrong with either company. Both are quality products.

...and while we are talking about it I am running stock rear drive shaft, 1350 front, drag link flip, and replaced all 8 control arms with Evo short arms.
I'm running these brackets in the rear , Synergy upper shock relocation brackets. Can I just use them instead of Evo's? And can you post a pic of your rear upper brackets? Thanks.

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Old 02-09-2018, 06:38 PM   #20
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Looks like you hacked away your stock upper shock mounts. The Evo uses the OEM upper mount holes and a strengthening bracket that sandwiches the holes and the shock mount. You will need to weld a plate back in to return to stock shock mount hole position. The Evo does relocate the lower shock mount with their Rockstar lower mounts. The net difference between your Synergy mounts and stock lower shock mount MAY be the same as the OEM upper mount with the Rockstar lower mount.
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Old 02-09-2018, 06:53 PM
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Looks like you hacked away your stock upper shock mounts. The Evo uses the OEM upper mount holes and a strengthening bracket that sandwiches the holes and the shock mount. You will need to weld a plate back in to return to stock shock mount hole position. The Evo does relocate the lower shock mount with their Rockstar lower mounts. The net difference between your Synergy mounts and stock lower shock mount MAY be the same as the OEM upper mount with the Rockstar lower mount.
Actually I just cut a piece out of the stock brackets I welded in the Evo's and all is good. 37" on the front to ground.

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Old 02-09-2018, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by GetRDun View Post
I have a hybrid JK . Besides burning both gas and oil, mine has the Evo Front bracketry setup and Rebel Rear bracketry, King 2 12inch travel on both.

I found the guys at evo to be much more helpful with the install and questions. Rebel the kit is ok but had to cut the brakets and turn them about 10 degrees for my 2 door so ended up doing some fabrication so the coils could clear the brakets without rubbing.. The evo front end was a breeze and very straight forward on the install.. Plus to the rebel is you cut off the muffler which is in a horrible spot in the first place. Now you do gain a nice flat area to mount things like compressors. I am usually about 4 -5 inches "lift" in the front and about 5-7 in the rear. I cant see anyone on a 2 door being able to dial the rebel rear kit down to 3.5 inches and have it handle well, I dont have any issues being a little bit tall because it handles like a race truck now.

Here is whats not in the kits and will need as you start to use it. Both driveshafts, for sure....control arms (can start with just front lowers to get it to drive straight on the highway) , i had to cut off the factory control arm mounts and beef them up after front upper snapped off. Adjustable track bars, track bar brackets, drag link flip, axel shafts, Im currenly saving up for the clayton long arm system because after driving it for the last 4-5 years like this I know what I would do differently from the start. I have lots of gravel and fire roads around me and typically go 40+mph while my brother in his more traditional setup can only go about 10 and is getting bounced around like a rag doll. As far as welding , I dont see the point , the bracketry on either kit is not likely the weak link both are very strong and mount to strong parts of the JK. To adjust coilovers you need a spanner wrench and might as well just go get a good powertank setup that can also do nitrogen as you will need it to dial in the shocks and it doubles to fill the tires. Its not a cheap upgrade unless you already have some/most of the aftermarket parts already. I tend to run 35s for mud and 37s for around town, 5.13 gears, it does ride very aggressively, not even close to factory, more like a Tank.

For the lift height it does very well on the highway, with an experienced driver.
its not gonna resell to the mall crawler/ family jeeper crowd. If you go this route you most likely already know that but would not wanna mislead anyone. I love mine and have no regrets besides not going long arm right away.
Long arm is next....

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Old 02-09-2018, 06:58 PM   #23
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Well that was quick! Give us a road and trail review of the Evo.
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Old 02-09-2018, 07:03 PM
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Well that was quick! Give us a road and trail review of the Evo.
Only driven it about 25 miles. Trying to level it out. Coils are adjusted more on passenger side than driver in front back its different will post picks...also noticing that the coilovers make a little noise when spring is going up and down. Freeway was nice.

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Old 02-12-2018, 01:14 AM   #25
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The noise is called chatter ... it s the valving that you are hearing.
after awhile you wont even hear it anymore because you get used to it.
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:34 AM   #26
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Only driven it about 25 miles. Trying to level it out. Coils are adjusted more on passenger side than driver in front back its different will post picks...also noticing that the coilovers make a little noise when spring is going up and down. Freeway was nice.

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I have the same noise but just from the rear shocks. My guess is that the rear are more angled so there is side load on the spring and slider where as the front is more vertical. It is the spring and the slider catching as it moves through the stroke. While you jack up your jeep you can see and hear exactly what the noise is. Just part of owning coilovers. Turn the radio up and the noise magically goes away.
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:02 AM   #27
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I have the same noise but just from the rear shocks. My guess is that the rear are more angled so there is side load on the spring and slider where as the front is more vertical. It is the spring and the slider catching as it moves through the stroke. While you jack up your jeep you can see and hear exactly what the noise is. Just part of owning coilovers. Turn the radio up and the noise magically goes away.
you'll learn to love that noise, and just as @GetRDun said soon enough you won't even hear it anymore.

here's a video of my noisy coilers (the end of the video) - honestly i don't remember hearing them at all... i never do. https://www.instagram.com/p/Be6nbQpB...en-by=tabber02
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Old 05-03-2018, 10:12 PM   #28
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you'll learn to love that noise, and just as @GetRDun said soon enough you won't even hear it anymore.

here's a video of my noisy coilers (the end of the video) - honestly i don't remember hearing them at all... i never do. https://www.instagram.com/p/Be6nbQpB...en-by=tabber02
Just checked your instagram... realized I looked at you jeep at few times at Jeep Beach.
Also just joined the Rebel family, I ordered the Recon 2.5 kit this past Monday. Supposed to be here in about 4 weeks...
What's this chatter you guys are talking about? Is this a daily thing? Anything to prevent it?
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Old 05-03-2018, 10:17 PM   #29
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Just checked your instagram... realized I looked at you jeep at few times at Jeep Beach.
Also just joined the Rebel family, I ordered the Recon 2.5 kit this past Monday. Supposed to be here in about 4 weeks...
What's this chatter you guys are talking about? Is this a daily thing? Anything to prevent it?
I have the Evo coilover. On mine the sound went away after about 2 months. I guess it wore in.

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Old 05-04-2018, 07:54 AM   #30
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Just checked your instagram... realized I looked at you jeep at few times at Jeep Beach.
Also just joined the Rebel family, I ordered the Recon 2.5 kit this past Monday. Supposed to be here in about 4 weeks...
What's this chatter you guys are talking about? Is this a daily thing? Anything to prevent it?
sweet! you're going to love the recon kit. the rear coilover brackets are a little fun to install, but it's a great kit. the brackets will come pretty quick from Rebel, but King takes their sweet arse time building/valving the coilovers.

the chatter is the slider (for the upper and lower spring) it'll make some noise for a little while. eventually it rubs in enough and it doesn't make noise.
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