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Old 04-14-2016, 12:43 PM
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Detroit Locker in D 30

Jeep is a 2015 JK sport w/manual. Going to have it regeared in the near future and I want to add a Detroit Locker/Yukon Grizzly in the front and a Trak Lol in the rear.

For the D30 I am planning on C gussets and new ball joints. Do I need to sleeve, get chromoly axles or let it ride?

I live in GA, so no plans for Moab or the slick rock trails out west.

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Old 04-14-2016, 12:46 PM
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Brain fart. Truetrac in the rear.

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Old 04-14-2016, 12:54 PM   #3
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I'd put the Detroit in the rear and a selectable in the front. But yes you should look into aftermarket shafts for the D30 if your going to put a locker in it
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Old 04-14-2016, 12:58 PM   #4
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Jeep is a 2015 JK sport w/manual. Going to have it regeared in the near future and I want to add a Detroit Locker/Yukon Grizzly in the front and a Trak Lol in the rear.

For the D30 I am planning on C gussets and new ball joints. Do I need to sleeve, get chromoly axles or let it ride?

I live in GA, so no plans for Moab or the slick rock trails out west.
I am in the exact same boat.

What I have come to realize is that the detroit locker replaces your carrier and will be the strongest thing in your D30. So its a bit overkill. I think I am going to get mine regeared or do it myself if i can manage the time on a lift somewhere (they want 1200$ to regear at the cheapest and parts are about 450$). I will regear then after 500 miles put in a spartan or aussie locker front and rear as that installation is super easy and requires no gear resetup. Plus the diff fluid should be changed after break in and inspected.

Why?

because they operate almost exactly the same and should be stronger than the D30 ring and pinion or axles. So even with beefed up axles ill probably break a gear set before an aussie locker. No sense in spending the 700$ on a detroit for the D30.

The D30 sucks. I regret not getting a rubicon. People regularly get 2500 for a D44 front around here.
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Old 04-14-2016, 01:07 PM
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Planning on the Truetrac in the rear for day to day driving. I have relatives in PA so winter trips through the snow belt are a given.

In not sure if an Aussie or Spartan locker is stronger than the ring and pinion, plan on getting them cryo treated.
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Old 04-14-2016, 01:16 PM   #6
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If your planning on driving in the snow, an auto locker is not the way to go, Detroit Aussie etc. makes for a scary time in the snow and ice
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Old 04-14-2016, 01:16 PM   #7
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Planning on the Truetrac in the rear for day to day driving. I have relatives in PA so winter trips through the snow belt are a given.

In not sure if an Aussie or Spartan locker is stronger than the ring and pinion, plan on getting them cryo treated.
Its the main reason im not too keen on regearing I do blast in the dunes a bit and the 3.21 gear set is pretty freaking strong.

I actually feel safer on that going slower than if i was running the right gears (5.13 or something)
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:11 PM
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I agree that auto lockers can be scary on snow/ice in the rear, but it's going in the front. Keep it in 2wd and it shouldn't affect anything.

I've lived as far north as Connecticut, and as far south as GA. On the street I've never used 4wd above a crawl even in the worst blizzards.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:13 PM   #9
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No detroit in the front.. you will hate it. and it will drive your traction control nutz..

I put a detroit in the rear and love it..

Against my will i have an ARB in the front would have rather had an Auburn Electric Locker in the front..

But which ever one you choose for the front make it selective.. you will be much happier in the long run
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:20 PM   #10
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I agree that auto lockers can be scary on snow/ice in the rear, but it's going in the front. Keep it in 2wd and it shouldn't affect anything.

I've lived as far north as Connecticut, and as far south as GA. On the street I've never used 4wd above a crawl even in the worst blizzards.
Your saying drive in the snow and ice in 2wd? RWD at that?
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:29 PM
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Yup, done it for years.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:30 PM   #12
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Interesting
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:38 PM
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I haven't heard of any traction control problems with an auto locker in the front, just in the rear if you have an automatic. Do you remember what forum you saw this on?

Vehicles haven't always been front wheel drive. Lived through 3 CT winters with an old 2wd Isuzu Pup, you just have to respect the road conditions.

Back to the topic: sleeves or axle shafts?
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:41 PM   #14
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Ive got an auto locker in my D30 and its crazy sketchy in the snow and ice. I live where we average 500+ inches of snow a year, so that's just my personal experience with it.
Your upgrades are really going to depend on tire size and application. If your going to be running 35's the sleeves may be necessary, but you should certainly go with the shafts just for the piece of mind
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:44 PM   #15
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You didn't say what say what size tires u plan to run. Ball joints are a waste of money for what u claim you'll be doing. I have 98,000 miles on my 09 and have run 33s initially and 35s and so far do not have a ball joint failure. Might as well wait I until the give out. If you're running over 35s go ahead and at least gusset and maybe sleeve your D30. Wouldn't waste money on shafts. If u blow a shaft you're looking at 2 maybe $300 bucks. You run stronger shafts and blow your ring and pinion and locker, you're looking at over $2000. Again for the Type of wheeling u claim to want to do, cromoly shafts are not an efficient use of your money. Nobody in my 4x4 club out here in Utah has ever broke an axle shaft and we have big ol rocks. Drive shafts, yes. Definitely do a selectable up front.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:59 PM   #16
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Anything other that a selectable up front and you will have troubles. the unit hubs keep the axles turning. So the lunch box locker is engaged. It will stay that way until an unloaded (no throttle) turn occurs, then the locker dog clutches start chattering, waiting to re-engage. if you apply throttle through the turn, the locker will not open up. You will be pushed straight as the wheel speed is not independant.

It was easier before when the front hubs were manual. you could run with the hubs unlocked and the axles wold then be free spinning.

A Detroit locker has springs and dog clutches. It is a lot uglier when it disengages and then re-engages. I have seen axles snap from that action. snapped at just past the splines.

Bob
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Old 04-14-2016, 03:23 PM
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500+ inches of snow per year? I bow to your experience over mine in winter driving.

With no power going through the transfer case, won't the front stay unlocked even without hubs? I thought it took torque to cause the locker to engage? What am I not understanding?

I was looking at ball joints due to installing C Gussets. I have read the heat from the welding damages them, and it is best to replace them while everything is apart.

My JK rides on 295/70-17 STT Pros, with a RK 2.5 lift. Hardest trails I have run so far were last weekend at Beasley Knob in north GA.
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Old 04-14-2016, 03:33 PM   #18
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500+ inches of snow per year? I bow to your experience over mine in winter driving.

With no power going through the transfer case, won't the front stay unlocked even without hubs? I thought it took torque to cause the locker to engage? What am I not understanding?

I was looking at ball joints due to installing C Gussets. I have read the heat from the welding damages them, and it is best to replace them while everything is apart.

My JK rides on 295/70-17 STT Pros, with a RK 2.5 lift. Hardest trails I have run so far were last weekend at Beasley Knob in north GA.
You won't have issues with the Aussie/whatever.

To your original questions about sleeves and shafts...

With gussets you'll be fine on the tubes. They're the same tubes and C's as the "D44" in the Rubicon.

Shafts depends. If you go chromoly on the shafts just keep in mind you're pushing your weak point into the diff (R&P). Smart driving on trails with cryo and an aussie should keep you safe.
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Old 04-14-2016, 05:18 PM   #19
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500+ inches of snow per year? I bow to your experience over mine in winter driving. With no power going through the transfer case, won't the front stay unlocked even without hubs? I thought it took torque to cause the locker to engage? What am I not understanding? I was looking at ball joints due to installing C Gussets. I have read the heat from the welding damages them, and it is best to replace them while everything is apart. My JK rides on 295/70-17 STT Pros, with a RK 2.5 lift. Hardest trails I have run so far were last weekend at Beasley Knob in north GA.
Nice rig!
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:40 PM   #20
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With no power going through the transfer case, won't the front stay unlocked even without hubs? I thought it took torque to cause the locker to engage? What am I not understanding?


The locker is engaged as soon as it is installed. It is spring loaded dog clutches. It will only disengage when there is no torque applied and the wheel speeds are offset (like in a turn). the springs keep pressure on the dog clutches and it will engage again as soon as wheel speeds match.

With direct pressure applied to the axles, (unit hubs), the axles will be locked together. You will be locked until you are turning (lay off the throttle), and will be locked as soon as you come out of it. It will be the axles spinning that will make this noticeable.

Of course it will have a bigger impact when you have it in 4WD. just be advised, it will have an impact in 2WD because of the axles turning with the unit hubs.

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Old 04-14-2016, 08:48 PM   #21
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To add:

it is the side gears and spiders that give you the open diff and no to little bind. The lunch box lockers replace all of that. The center shaft runs through the middle of the locker. There are 2 sets of plates with springs between them. The inside set hugs the cross shaft. The outside plates are splined and the axles are inserted in them. I have a pic of what one looks like somewhere. Anyways, as I said, this assembly is locked as soon as it is installed. You can play with it with the wheels off the ground. You can make it unlock. But as soon as the wheel speed matches, it will lock up again.

Bob K.
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:57 PM   #22
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Old 04-15-2016, 04:30 AM
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Thank you for the info Bob. I was backwards on my understanding, thinking it would be unlocked until torque was applied.

I was originally thinking truetrak front and rear, but a hillclimb with a shelf at the top changed my thinking. It took way too much skinny pedal to get over with an open front. Those with at least 1 locker crawled through with no problem.

I don't want a selectable, I like stupid simple.
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:36 PM   #24
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Thank you for the info Bob. I was backwards on my understanding, thinking it would be unlocked until torque was applied.

I was originally thinking truetrak front and rear, but a hillclimb with a shelf at the top changed my thinking. It took way too much skinny pedal to get over with an open front. Those with at least 1 locker crawled through with no problem.

I don't want a selectable, I like stupid simple.
Awhile later and here I am looking at lunchbox lockers again....

I get it now. It is locked and when you put back torque or slow one side down they spread on the cross shaft and free wheel.

No traction at all and it will never unlock. But when do you actually have 0 traction aside from glare ice?

So in a corner and hit glare ice the locker may lock and cause the front to push....but if it was already in 4wd chances are it was locked and pushing anyways....


*thinking*
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Old 04-20-2016, 07:37 PM
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I stopped by a local Offroad shop, and they recommended a lunchbox locker instead of the Detroit locker. Their opinion is that stock axle shafts would fail before the lunchbox, and the Detroit is not worth the extra money for the wheeling that I do. They recommend the Spartan, but they also said they get the best prices on Yukon gears and lockers.
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Old 04-23-2016, 03:01 PM   #26
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I've owned and still own a Jeep with Detroits. I have also owned and still own a Jeep with selectable lockers. I will never use non selectable lockers again.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:34 PM   #27
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I live in GA also (and enjoy Beasley a couple times a year) and I'm a selectable man all the way myself. I went Eaton front and rear. Had them done with my switch to 4.56. So far the D30 is doing fine. I'm on Week 2 of 3 weeks in Moab, doing 1-2 big trails per day. 34x11.5 tires, 4:1 t-case. 4.56 gears. Nothing else done to the D30.

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