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Old 05-14-2019, 07:10 PM   #31
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I have a JKU with LS3 with 6L80 transmission and 35's with 4.11 gears and I can tell you 4.11's aren't low enough to utilize the engine power efficiently. That will be especially true if you have a stock engine and automatic. Go 4.56 or 4.88. If you crawl, go 5.12's.

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Old 05-14-2019, 07:19 PM   #32
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Anybody have an all-in ballpark cost estimate at a shop (MN) to re-gear from 3.73 to 4.88?
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:17 PM   #33
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I have two 2017 JKURs with 35s and auto trans.. one regeared at 4.56 and the other 4.88. The 4.56 is my daily driver. Both work well with 35s. The 4.56 gets slightly better gas mileage.
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:33 PM   #34
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I'm running 35's on 4.88 gears. 6-speed manual. I would do no less. 5.13's make an auto more manageable in the hills and mountains.
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:34 PM   #35
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$350.00 an axle.
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Old 05-15-2019, 06:57 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by plbarnes84 View Post
Anybody have an all-in ballpark cost estimate at a shop (MN) to re-gear from 3.73 to 4.88?
Around here (Mid-Atlantic) it is fairly pricey, commonly it is around $1,800 to re-gear, more if you want lockers or real LSDs.
But I don't know what it cost where you are. In some areas 4WP has sales on it, $1,400 for both axles. The just built a 4WP in our area, so maybe the price will come down.
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:20 AM   #37
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simple logic, if you are at 4:88 and dont llike the RPM then slow down and still have your low rpm.......you cannot get 4:88 crawl with 4:56 but you can do the other way round......ur choice...

I am on 4:88 mpg sucks, but the pop i get every time I hit the gas is worth it....oh BTW it is my 3rd vehicle so I am not that worried; if it would be my DD i would have thought otherwise......

If this is your DD and you offroad say 2-3 times a year, then MPGs are very critical and at 3.73 you have enough juice to do some decent off-roading and still get good MPGs for your DD.....

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Old 05-15-2019, 10:11 AM   #38
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3.73 to 4.10 waste of money

On my JK with new Pro Comp Extreme MTís, I was rebuilding a pancake roll over. The shop that assisted me in the build had a set of brand new 4.10ís on the shelf from a build that never got used and offered them at 50% off, and would swap in the 4.56 or 4.88 for no labor they were so sure Iíd like it. I drove it less than 100 miles before they had to put the 4.56 in for free. I could not even use 6th gear until you reached 80mph, and if you hit a hill you were downshifting as far as 4th gear with the manual. You have to be able to get to the mountain to crawl it, why abuse your Jeep just getting there! In Jeeps case itís a blessing these V6ís are NOT torque monsters or you would be destroying every bearing from the trans to the diffs and every bearing in between just to keep it rolling with the higher gears (Lower number gears)...
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:02 PM   #39
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What D44 ratio changes require carriers/lockers to change?

What are the forum members' thoughts on 4.88 and up and pinion/ring gear strength on the D44? The article here says move up to D60 or Ford 9" if you need 4.89 or lower with tall tires. Hypoid offset and all that fun stuff. The pinion to ring gear diameter info is pretty interesting too.
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Old 05-15-2019, 02:39 PM   #40
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I've gone from 4.10 to 4.88 in two JKURs on 35" tires, auto trans, 3.6L stock motors. They cost about $1250 for both axles including parts, labor, and the break-in oil change. I went with 4.88 because I tow a travel trailer and also run through higher altitudes regularly. I'm happy with that choice.
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:36 PM   #41
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Carriers on JK are 3.73 up. So if you have 3.21, you need a new carrier.

I have been crawling 5.13 on my D44 for 5 years. It's all about being careful of the skinny pedal and truly crawling. I have the 4:1 which helps immensely too.

The D44 housing maxes out at 5.38. I chose not to push that envelope.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:10 PM   #42
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Carriers on JK are 3.73 up. So if you have 3.21, you need a new carrier.

I have been crawling 5.13 on my D44 for 5 years. It's all about being careful of the skinny pedal and truly crawling. I have the 4:1 which helps immensely too.

The D44 housing maxes out at 5.38. I chose not to push that envelope.
The carrier break only applies to old generation (pre-JK) Dana 44 axles.

The carriers are "weird" in the JK because they took some short cuts designing the new generation axle with different gears. And they went and built the JK Dana 44 two different ways that aren't compatible with each other.

If you have a JK Rubicon, you need a JK Rubicon compatible carrier. There's only one size for all gear ratios.

If you have a JK that isn't a Rubicon, you need an old generation Dana 44 carrier. But they way they built the non-Rubicon axle, they used a "3.73 and down" carrier from the old generation Dana 44 for all axle ratios. 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, and 5.38 use the "3.73 and down" carrier.

It's confusing and frustrating trying to keep track of it all but that's the way it works.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:55 PM   #43
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Thanks, derf. That's what I had heard around but never put so concisely. I have dreams of 40s and D60s sometime in the future when I might be able to put a V8 in the jeep. Lots of money involved there, so I'll stick to 33s and the Stock rubicon axles for now.

Mommymallcrawler, I've seen D30s to D60s broken on trails. It's almost always hopping on ledges or hill climbs. I crawl and use the skinny pedal lightly too.
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:35 PM   #44
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Almost anything can be broken by hammering the throttle at the most inappropriate time. That being said, without putting in an LS3, I believe the sweet spot of off road durability and on road drivability is D60s with 37s and 5.13.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:10 PM   #45
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Thanks, derf. That's what I had heard around but never put so concisely. I have dreams of 40s and D60s sometime in the future when I might be able to put a V8 in the jeep. Lots of money involved there, so I'll stick to 33s and the Stock rubicon axles for now.

Mommymallcrawler, I've seen D30s to D60s broken on trails. It's almost always hopping on ledges or hill climbs. I crawl and use the skinny pedal lightly too.
I'm going on 6 years with 4.56's on a Dana 30 with 35's. Not one hint of trouble. I have a truss, gussets, heavy duty diff cover, chrome mollly shafts, and an e-locker that I only lock when I've tried an obstacle a couple of times open.

Even though I get the really high torque multiplication from the 4 speed Atlas, I stay off the skinny pedal and wheel smart.
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:01 AM   #46
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I'm going on 6 years with 4.56's on a Dana 30 with 35's. Not one hint of trouble. I have a truss, gussets, heavy duty diff cover, chrome mollly shafts, and an e-locker that I only lock when I've tried an obstacle a couple of times open.

Even though I get the really high torque multiplication from the 4 speed Atlas, I stay off the skinny pedal and wheel smart.
I agree with your thinking. Although I have an LS3 in the JKU, I drive it very conservatively. I did the same when it was a V-6. I am constantly amazed how people can spend thousands of dollars altering their JK to make it stronger and then go out a destroy parts of the running gear simply because they 'can". I was in tanks in the Army and you could break one quite easily if you wanted too. The goal should be to not do so, both in tanks as well as JK's. But I guess it's a badge of honor with some guys to say that they have Dana 60 running gear or similar and tore up the front end. I'll never understand wasting money.
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Old 05-18-2019, 10:38 AM   #47
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Went from 3.21 to 4.56 in a 2013 JKU Auto. 33s.

We primarily use the Jeep for driving in the mountains on weekends (skiing and camping).
Put 600+ miles on each trip.

I am glad we went with 4.56 and not 4.1 or 4.88.

We regularly cruise at 75-80 mph.
The Jeep can stay in 5th for most inclines.
It downshifts to 4th on steeper climbs.
Has never gone into 3rd in a climb, but we do not have any heavy add-on modifications, don't pull a trailer and are not at 10k feet. If we were doing higher altitude climbs all the time I think 4.88 may make sense. We do not pull a trailer either, but a small tent trailer would likely be ok with the 4.56 in the mountains.

With the 3.21 it would often kick down to 3rd, and even 2nd as the Jeep struggled to make it up the climbs. Nothing scarier than kicking into 2nd on a snow covered road and having the traction control grab the back end.

The BEST modification we did was re-gearing.

Gas mileage improved as well FWIW despite turning more rpms.

My wife definitely prefer how the Jeep drives with the 4.56 gears.
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:34 AM   #48
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What RPM range does the 3.6 get the best mileage?
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:07 PM   #49
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What RPM range does the 3.6 get the best mileage?
Not sure, but our mileage is better by about 1 MPG at 75 mph.

But gas mileage is not my concern when driving 75 mph in a Jeep Wrangler.

Suspect mileage continues to improve as you decrease your speed.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:38 PM   #50
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I am running 285/75/17 about 33.5" now and will be going to 35's next time around. I live in CO. My 16JKUR auto is running heavy with armor, gear ect. I regeared to 4.88's from 4.10 and could not be happier with the set up. Just finished running in Moab, Death Valley, and the Mojave Road trails this spring and my Jeep did great. It does great on our passes and on the steep grades. Runs just at 3000 3050 rpms at 70. My gas mileage took just over a 1 mpg hit on the highway over the stock gearing. Hope this helps
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:51 PM   #51
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What RPM range does the 3.6 get the best mileage?
That's not a question that can be answered. It would need to include variables like total load. You can say that an engine like this is most efficient at X RPM under Y load, but not as a blanket statement not including load and actual power output.
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Old 05-29-2019, 01:25 PM   #52
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MPH plays a large part when you are pushing a shoe box down the highway. Get over 65 or so and you take a hit
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Old 05-29-2019, 01:33 PM   #53
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MPH plays a large part when you are pushing a shoe box down the highway. Get over 65 or so and you take a hit
I often tow a travel trailer. In CA with their 55 limit with a trailer, my MPG goes WAY up compared to doing 70-80 in AZ. I do 60 in CA. Without the trailer there's also a huge difference, but this really shows the glaring difference.
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Old 05-30-2019, 12:19 AM   #54
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For my 2015 the answer was 4.10 gears and upgrade to lower range transfer case than the sport model . This kept my ability to travel at 75 to 80 constant hwy speed even with a small trailer full of camping gear . Mixed with a steady slow low range. It's the best of both worlds , having driven 3.8 jeeps I fully support the lowest gearing you can find and a prayer , but the 3.6 is considerably more powerful and capable. I've been all over Texas to Colorado Oklahoma new Mexico and have plenty of paint gouge Mark's to prove my offroad time to , I typically travel with my family so 2 adults and 3 kids all our gear and I've got heavy bumpers winch and onboard air and a hard top,so I wouldnt label my 4 door as a light model I honestly cant say I need any lower gear ratio.

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