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Old 12-03-2014, 10:40 AM
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DIY: Rear differential fluid and throttle body injection service

Hey, I'm new to the forum, so please be gentle.

I have a 2011 Wrangler. It's at just under 30,000 miles. My dealer recommended the rear differential fluid and throttle body injection service. I'm a pretty capable girl. I've swapped out the exhaust system on a couple of my Harleys, studied carpentry and electrical wiring, and I build computers. Should I spend the $300 for this service or is this something I can do myself? Thanks.

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Old 12-03-2014, 10:46 AM   #2
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I've worked paint an body before but never service my Diffs until this year. It was stupid easy to do. I used a 75W-90 synthetic oil for the gear oil and it too no time to do. Really you just drain, pull the cover, scrape the rtv, clean everything with parts cleaner, apply rtv to the diff cover, clean the gears and wait for them to dry, reinstall the cover, fill with fluid and youre done.
The throttle body I believe there are several videos of cleaning one on youtube. I pulled and cleaned mine off right after I got the Jeep and it took less than an hour.

Jeremy

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Old 12-03-2014, 11:00 AM   #3
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Old 12-03-2014, 02:26 PM   #4
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Ditto on the "Right Stuff"! For filling the diffs get this.. http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lu...lube+hand+pump Some Walmarts carry them or your local auto parts store.
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:18 PM   #5
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JTB I wish I would have had that. The hobby shop has some ghetto fab crap here that spills more that it fills. GIANT headache.
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:36 PM   #6
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I used synthetic 75w140 in my rear dif. You can use 75w90 if you prefer. I use lubelocker gaskets and prefer them to sealant, your choice. You'll have no leaks and no excess goop using lubelockers. I would pass on the TBI service. It's just another dealer upsell service item.
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:50 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Jeremy KrawlOff-Road.com View Post
I've worked paint an body before but never service my Diffs until this year. It was stupid easy to do. I used a 75W-90 synthetic oil for the gear oil and it too no time to do. Really you just drain, pull the cover, scrape the rtv, clean everything with parts cleaner, apply rtv to the diff cover, clean the gears and wait for them to dry, reinstall the cover, fill with fluid and youre done.
The throttle body I believe there are several videos of cleaning one on youtube. I pulled and cleaned mine off right after I got the Jeep and it took less than an hour.

Jeremy
Why would you take the cover off (unless replacing with an after market one)? She just wants to change the fluid. There is a drain plug and a fill plug. The whole thing can be done in 20 minutes with very basic tools. Don't take the cover off unless you're replacing it. Use the drain plug - that's what it's for.

Get a quart bottle pump at an auto parts store, makes the job a lot easier.

http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lu...ds=bottle+pump
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:55 PM   #8
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Also...change the front diff fluid while you're at it. It's super easy.
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:47 PM   #9
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If I'm doing it every 50k or so, I like to pull the cover. Clean out real good and give the gears a good look over.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:00 AM   #10
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YES. Youtube
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:14 AM   #11
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Buy a LUBELOCKER gasket forget the RTV...pita! If you plan to wheel the vehicle hard use the 75w140 non synthetic. Take the cover off and inspect inside the diff... It is called preventative maintenance for those of you that choose not to take the cover off! If the vehicle is new to you do both differentials, transfer case and transmission. I service everything every spring before the off-road season begins, A few hours invested less than $70 in fluids it's worth it!
Don't pay $300 for that service.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:35 PM   #12
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Stupid question for everyone, is this even necessary or the dealer trying to take advantage and "create work"? The throttle body injection service tips me off that this dealer is a lying POS. Unless there is something wrong with the TB, that would be covered under the 5yr 36k warranty anyway.

Personally I only change the diff fluid if I think water may have gotten in or I've done a lot of heavy towing.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:49 PM   #13
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Stupid question for everyone, is this even necessary or the dealer trying to take advantage and "create work"? The throttle body injection service tips me off that this dealer is a lying POS. Unless there is something wrong with the TB, that would be covered under the 5yr 36k warranty anyway. Personally I only change the diff fluid if I think water may have gotten in or I've done a lot of heavy towing.
I would want the dealer to show me the alleged dirt in the throttlebody that warrants to cleaning. If they stutter or stammer or say well this is just maintenance I would pass.
Regarding the differential maintenance, I change my diff fluids, transmission and transfer case fluids every spring before the off road season starts regardless of mileage that was put on the fluids in the last 12 months. IMO, DIY makes it cheaper to do, and the cost of fluids is so small when compared to the amount we spend on modifications on our jeeps and it's an easy way to determine issues that should be addressed before they become major repair bills.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:54 PM   #14
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I would want the dealer to show me the alleged dirt in the throttlebody that warrants to cleaning. If they stutter or stammer or say well this is just maintenance I would pass. Regarding the differential maintenance, I change my diff fluids, transmission and transfer case fluids every spring before the off road season starts regardless of mileage that was put on the fluids in the last 12 months. IMO, DIY makes it cheaper to do, and the cost of fluids is so small when compared to the amount we spend on modifications on our jeeps and it's an easy way to determine issues that should be addressed before they become major repair bills.
The diff fluid every spring is overkill. My 96 nissan truck had the original diff fluid in it when i traded it in.
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Old 12-05-2014, 01:05 PM   #15
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I do diffs every 10k, but I wheel quite a bit and run through streams and what not. Cheap insurance, especially the front. My front I did a few weeks ago at 10k was a bit milky looking so I know it had water in it.

Throttle body injection cleaning? I mean, you could pull the throttle body and spray some throttle body cleaner into it to clean off any carbon build up, but beyond that, not going to do a damn thing.
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Old 12-05-2014, 02:32 PM   #16
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The diff fluid every spring is overkill. My 96 nissan truck had the original diff fluid in it when i traded it in.
It's overkill... Based on what? You didn't ask how many miles are on the rig each year you didn't ask how hard I wheel or if I have lockers... You're basing it solely on your opinion and your admission that you don't do maintenance on your vehicles. So you don't do Maintinance that's your call. It's cheap insurance and and provides me peace of mind that I know there's no broken teeth at the bottom of my diff.
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Old 12-05-2014, 02:37 PM   #17
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It's overkill... Based on what? You didn't ask how many miles are on the rig each year you didn't ask how hard I wheel or if I have lockers... You're basing it solely on your opinion and your admission that you don't do maintenance on your vehicles. So you don't do Maintinance that's your call. It's cheap insurance and and provides me peace of mind that I know there's no broken teeth at the bottom of my diff.
Its over kill as stated in the owners manual.
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Old 12-05-2014, 02:38 PM   #18
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I can see if you drive thru tons of water, but if thats the case, normal maintenance schedule need not apply to you.
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Old 12-05-2014, 09:19 PM   #19
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Jug Pumps, harrumph!

Why is everyone so hot on the jug pumps? I finally bought one, and the first time I used it - it just blew apart. This wasn't a cheapo unit from Harbor Freight either. It was a moderately priced unit from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

I have since gone back to the way I've been doing this for years. I found some 5/16" clear tubing at Tractor Supply Company. I cut the tip of the bottle off just smaller than the I.D. of the tubing. Next, shove the tubing up as far as it will go - over the outside of the tip. In just about every case I've come across, I have been able to get the bottom of the jug above the fill hole. Even if I have to use longer tubing and have someone standing beside the vehicle and squeezing the jug for me while I monitor fill. Only cut the tip on the first jug - save at least one in case you don't use the whole quart, and it will seal tighter than using that little slip-cap doohicky. Every other squeeze you may need to remove the hose from the fluid (but leave in fill hole) so that the jug can "take a breath" and expand back to full size. Using this method you can get every drop into the differential, transmission, transfer case or PTO gearbox under your vehicle or stuffed into a tiny nook on your tractor or combine.

Oh, save the pre-cut jug tip. It will also fit most automatic transmission bottles too. Especially handy if filling the transmissions on compact pickups.


ETA - if you know that the item will take the full quart (like the 4 qts required for the rear end on the wife's truck or either of our NV5600's), drill a small hole in the bottom of the jug. You can cover it with a finger until you get under the vehicle and get it positioned. It will look like an IV feed and trickle right in. Yup, every last expensive drop of synthetic oil.
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Old 12-06-2014, 12:45 AM   #20
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I've had the same fluid pump now for over ten years. And on the TB cleaning..what the dealer would charge, no way. It is very easy as a DIY. Think most would be surprised what it could look like at 30,000 miles. 20 minutes and a $4 can of carb cleaner.
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Old 12-06-2014, 06:42 AM   #21
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Attachment 1702201

^^^Unless you have a noisy rear diff, (a issue with it), then there is no need to pull the cover.
Just drive it and get the oil warmed up, and then pull the plug and let it drain.
Re-fill until it just starts to drip out the filler hole.

The rear (Dana 44) will take approx. 4.75 pints. I would use a 75w140 synthetic oil.
I would also do the front diff. Same procedure.
The front (Dana 30) will take approx. 2.1 pints. I would use 75w90 synthetic oil.

If your engine is running and idling O.K., then your throttle body doesn't need to be cleaned........
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:35 AM   #22
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Buy a LUBELOCKER gasket forget the RTV...pita! If you plan to wheel the vehicle hard use the 75w140 non synthetic. Take the cover off and inspect inside the diff... It is called preventative maintenance for those of you that choose not to take the cover off! If the vehicle is new to you do both differentials, transfer case and transmission. I service everything every spring before the off-road season begins, A few hours invested less than $70 in fluids it's worth it!
Don't pay $300 for that service.
I agree with the lubelocker! And annual fluid changes - cheap insurance. And I do it myself too.

Don't agree on removing the cover at 30k to "inspect as preventative maintenance" though. Read the OP's post, does she sound like she has the experience to visually recognize an issue? I think no. Why take the cover off at 30k when you can drain and fill in 10 minutes. OP should crawl before she walks. Now upgrading to after market cover is another thing! I think that's a smart upgrade if you ever go off road.

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