I just replaced my bearings, ball joints, and seals. I did the seals after the bearings and ball joints. Pulling and reinserting the axles dorked up the driver's side seal. I was at 72,000 miles or so.
Here's my info on the seals on a rubicon front end:
I ended up pulling the axles and replacing the seals a month ago, but I never got around to posting any pics or info here. The rear axle seals are at the ends of the axles, and the bearings are lubricated by the differential gear oil. The front axle has sealed unit bearings at the ends of the axles, and the differential seals are in the tubes adjacent to the differential. The front axle only requires 2.7 pints of gear oil, and the rear requires 4.75 pints. The saying on the jeep board is: Front diff a little low? Not so bad. Rear diff a little low? Not so good.
Axles, unit bearings, dust shields out and on the floor:
Note that the magnet on the locker had strongly magnetized the splined end of the short driver's side axle. This made it difficult to slide into the seal without being drawn to the dirty tube. It also probably caused it to grab metal particles in the tube on the way in which compromised the seal.
You have to pull the carrier out to replace the seals, so I used the rag in the ring gear and pry bar method. Video description:
My 2015 is a Rubicon model, so compared to a non-rubicon, my front axle has an e-locker and a D44 carrier and housing. As I understand it, my axle tubes, outer Cs, ball joints, and everything else on the front axle are the same as non-rubicons' D30 axle assemblies. The locker makes the removal and installation of the carrier a little more interesting. The locker position indicating sensor has a plunger that rides on the lip of the locker that is pushed towards the carrier by a magnet to engage the locking teeth. When the carrier is reinstalled, the plunger has to be held open to catch the plunger on the lip. I found an easy string and stick method of doing this. Kabob skewers are becoming more and more useful in the garage.
Also know that the plugs that allow the locker wiring to enter the diff housing on top are very easy to break. I had to remove part of the tab on mine to get it apart. It's so tight, I have no worries that it will disconnect down the road.
You can see the plunger riding on the lip of the locker at the rear of the housing here:
With the carrier out, here's the string and stick method of holding the plunger open so you can reinstall the carrier, pull the string, and the plunger gets seated on the locker disc surface correctly.
Here's video of the string pull:
I ended up using a 35mm axle nut socket and 3' long, 1/2" extension to drive the old seals out. I used the extension and a 36mm axle nut socket to drive the new seals in.
Before installing the new seals, I used a bottle brush, lots of brake parts cleaner, and ether to clean the axle tubes from the center out. New seal being driven in:
Note that the old seal was actually the new two sealing surface design. I replaced it with the locally in stock old seal design with one sealing surface.
I reinstalled the carrier by shoving it in a bit, plastic hammering it in some more, and then drawing it down using the bearing caps. Torque on the D44 caps was 80 lbft. A bracket that keeps the nonrotating part of the e-locker from rotating goes under the bolt heads of the driver's side cap. The shims on my carrier were around .140 on one side and .165 on the other side.
The specs for using a case spreader are to keep the spread under .020" if anyone uses one of those. After reading online, just prying it out and pushing it back in are easy enough that I did it that way.