Final thoughts on 3.5" JKU lift - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Like Tree10Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 08-04-2019, 10:52 AM
Thread Starter
  #1
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
64Chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 701
Final thoughts on 3.5" JKU lift

I'm finalizing my build, and I'm mostly settled on a 3.5" lift. I'm going 35's, and many have said 2.5 is enough (and I suspect it would be--with just appropriate bump stop adjustment), but the lift I am considering (and I think most of the expensive lifts available) only require a spring change to change between 2.5" and 3.5".

I was planning on going with the Metalcloak Gamechanger (I like the 8 adjustable control arms, and front/rear adjustable track bars so that my shop can get the axles centered both front to back and side to side, as well as tweak the castor and pinion angles) but then I came across the Rock Krawler equiavalent lift, and some other posts have suggested Synergy adjustable control arms. I'd rather do an "all in one" versus a piece together, but I'd appreciate any pro/cons on what I'm thinking, or other suggestions.

Thanks!

64Chevy is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 11:10 AM   #2
QUEEN OF MALLCRAWLERS

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
mommymallcrawler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 8,177
I would go with 2.5 Rock Krawler X Factor or Metalcloak Game Changer. I run 37s with the 2.5 X Factor.

mommymallcrawler is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 12:08 PM   #3
Bella's Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ExPatWillys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,231
What do you use your Jeep for? I have a 3.5 AEV lift with 285/75R17 and it is better than stock on the road including at freeway speeds, great on the trails especially long, washboarded drives, and works well in moderate rock crawling trails.

How you use your Jeep is more important in selecting a lift than brand names.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PSA_20190607_6014.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	251.5 KB
ID:	4167781  
jadmt, Shadowmaker and MarkD2 like this.
__________________
Bella (a.k.a. Baby Blue) - 2015 JK Willys Wheeler, Hydro Blue
A Brief History of Bella
Snow Angel - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, Deep Cherry Red
--- For list of mods see profile in Garage ---
ExPatWillys is online now   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-04-2019, 12:51 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 997
If you want to go 35’s and keep the oem fenders, go 3.5in lift
If you want 35’s and flat fenders then 2.5in works

If you think you will go to 37’s someday, go 3.5in now and if that day comes, new fenders and 37’s can be done

I have a JKU and narrowed down my lift to metal cloak and rock krawler. I ended up going with rock krawler (3.5x) and have zero regrets. My kit was on sale which made my decision really easy with the money I saved.

Many are super biased stating what’s on their Jeep is the best. I look at it as there are several really good quality brands offering similar performance, quality and after purchase support. From what I have read on these forums as well as local clubs and YouTube, any of those brands you listed is a good bet for a quality system.

My only regret with my kit is why did it take me a few years and 40k miles to purchase/install.
ExPatWillys likes this.
NC25T is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 01:06 PM   #5
Bella's Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ExPatWillys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,231
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC25T View Post
Many are super biased stating what’s on their Jeep is the best. I look at it as there are several really good quality brands offering similar performance, quality and after purchase support. From what I have read on these forums as well as local clubs and YouTube, any of those brands you listed is a good bet for a quality system.
So true. People who are happy with their lifts have one that fits their use of the Jeep best. People who are unhappy have a lift that doesn't. That includes people who want a lift just to look badass - they often get rock crawling lifts for the cool look and then complain about what a harsh ride they have on the roads...
__________________
Bella (a.k.a. Baby Blue) - 2015 JK Willys Wheeler, Hydro Blue
A Brief History of Bella
Snow Angel - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, Deep Cherry Red
--- For list of mods see profile in Garage ---
ExPatWillys is online now   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 02:16 PM
Thread Starter
  #6
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
64Chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 701
Thanks all. I use my Jeep as an occasional daily driver, a snow driver in the winter, and off roading. My off roading includes trails as difficult as I think my Jeep can handle, I've been to Moab once, and I am going back in October. I have full armor underneath it and that armor is scraped up.

Because of budget constraints I am staying with stock fenders now, but may go flat in the future. My budget does include a new front drive shaft, regardless of the lift I select.

Here's the disadvantages I see with a 3.5" vs 2.5" lift.
- harder to climb into
- slightly higher center of gravity (which will negatively impact handling)
- more drive shaft wear
- perhaps more challenging to get perfect caster and perfect pinion angle
- fits in fewer parking garages

The positives are include more clearance for some of the dangly bits and more articulation for a given tire size/fender combo.

I'd appreciate any further thoughts or agreements/disagreements.

Also, if I stay with 2.5" I wonder about the necessity of doing all 8 control arms?
64Chevy is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 03:14 PM   #7
Bella's Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ExPatWillys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,231
Seems like you do mostly rock crawling and occasional DD/dirt roads. That would lean you towards Metalcloak or Rock Crawler.

The other way round would lean you towards an AEV lift - still plenty capable in the rocks but much better manners on the freeway and long dirt roads.

Whatever you choose make sure you get a complete kit and a solid installation and alignment.

I originally thought I would go 2.5 but then I opted for the AEV due to my driving patterns and wanted some extra clearance because of the geometry correction brackets. I too was worried about height but I am glad I went 3.5. My total height increase was 5.5 inches, 4.5 from the lift (my Jeep only weighs 4500 lbs) and and extra 1 from the bigger tires.

Good luck.
__________________
Bella (a.k.a. Baby Blue) - 2015 JK Willys Wheeler, Hydro Blue
A Brief History of Bella
Snow Angel - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, Deep Cherry Red
--- For list of mods see profile in Garage ---
ExPatWillys is online now   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 03:25 PM
Thread Starter
  #8
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
64Chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 701
Quote:
Originally Posted by ExPatWillys View Post
Seems like you do mostly rock crawling and occasional DD/dirt roads. That would lean you towards Metalcloak or Rock Crawler.

The other way round would lean you towards an AEV lift - still plenty capable in the rocks but much better manners on the freeway and long dirt roads.

Whatever you choose make sure you get a complete kit and a solid installation and alignment.

I originally thought I would go 2.5 but then I opted for the AEV due to my driving patterns and wanted some extra clearance because of the geometry correction brackets. I too was worried about height but I am glad I went 3.5. My total height increase was 5.5 inches, 4.5 from the lift (my Jeep only weighs 4500 lbs) and and extra 1 from the bigger tires.

Good luck.
Thank you for the thoughts. The concern I have is that I spend an hour driving each way to my close wheeling place, and Moab is 15 hours each way, so on road manners matter. Of course, having said that, no one is going to mistake our Jeeps for race cars.
64Chevy is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 03:49 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
Leadnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Arizona
Posts: 4,668
Final thoughts on 3.5" JKU lift

You can run the X-Factor 2.5” with factory fenders and 35s. I know because I did it for two years. But, my 35s were KM2s that had a rolling diameter of 34 inches. A 3.5” lift is going to look kind of weird (too much gap IMO) with 35s and factory fenders. A 3.5” lift and flat fenders definitely 37s or 38s.
__________________
2014 JKU Willys 6-spd, RK X-Factor 3.5", Fox Resis, KM3 37s, PR60s, Eaton e-lockers, 5.13, Atlas II 3.8, and another $10K in miscellaneous parts.
Leadnut is online now   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 04:25 PM   #10
Bella's Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
ExPatWillys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,231
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadnut View Post
You can run the X-Factor 2.5” with factory fenders and 35s. I know because I did it for two years. But, my 35s were KM2s that had a rolling diameter of 34 inches. A 3.5” lift is going to look kind of weird (too much gap IMO) with 35s and factory fenders. A 3.5” lift and flat fenders definitely 37s or 38s.
Here's my JK with a 3.5 AEV lift (actually netted 4.5) and 285/75R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W (nominally 34 but actually 33 on the Jeep at 30 psi).

I like the look and get lots of questions about the lift. YMMV.

The Falkens are great tires in the winter (mountain snowflake every bit as good as the Duratracs) and tough enough for the rocky trails round here (which have a reputation for shredding Durtracs)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PSA_20190707_6683.jpg
Views:	55
Size:	193.6 KB
ID:	4167841  
JeepR kReapR likes this.
__________________
Bella (a.k.a. Baby Blue) - 2015 JK Willys Wheeler, Hydro Blue
A Brief History of Bella
Snow Angel - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, Deep Cherry Red
--- For list of mods see profile in Garage ---
ExPatWillys is online now   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 04:53 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 997
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64Chevy View Post
Thanks all. I use my Jeep as an occasional daily driver, a snow driver in the winter, and off roading. My off roading includes trails as difficult as I think my Jeep can handle, I've been to Moab once, and I am going back in October. I have full armor underneath it and that armor is scraped up.

Because of budget constraints I am staying with stock fenders now, but may go flat in the future. My budget does include a new front drive shaft, regardless of the lift I select.

Here's the disadvantages I see with a 3.5" vs 2.5" lift.
- harder to climb into
- slightly higher center of gravity (which will negatively impact handling)
- more drive shaft wear
- perhaps more challenging to get perfect caster and perfect pinion angle
- fits in fewer parking garages
Yes, harder to get into.... especially after a soccer game when my legs tell me what the ..... are you thinking. However I still think it’s worth it, keeps me young I guess? Almost qualified for 50+ yr old soccer... just a few more months...... ugh

Yes it does get a slightly higher cog however I still feel ride and handling is far superior vs stock. No sure from a driving standpoint on the street if you could even tell the difference between 2.5in and 3.5in

True.... I have been rocking the oem driveshaft since I installed my lift, that was 10k miles ago.

My JKU was able to get within specs that RK suggested. Shop that did the alignment went by Jeep specs even though I told them what to do. The thing wandered everywhere..... RK stated check the alignment which we did and once in suggested specs all is good.

Yea I have just a few inches in my garage.... however to much crap in there thus the only time I pull in is when I connect or disconnect the snowplow. Hopefully that will change soon.

My lift sat in my garage for a year until I could afford to have it installed (I know, should of done it myself however lack of tools and time). Then I rocked the oem tires for several months before I could afford different wheels/tires. A year later I finally purchased new fenders.
NC25T is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 05:42 PM   #12
I drive Papa Smurf

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Pressurized's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 14,505
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64Chevy View Post
I'm finalizing my build, and I'm mostly settled on a 3.5" lift. I'm going 35's, and many have said 2.5 is enough (and I suspect it would be--with just appropriate bump stop adjustment), but the lift I am considering (and I think most of the expensive lifts available) only require a spring change to change between 2.5" and 3.5".

I was planning on going with the Metalcloak Gamechanger (I like the 8 adjustable control arms, and front/rear adjustable track bars so that my shop can get the axles centered both front to back and side to side, as well as tweak the castor and pinion angles) but then I came across the Rock Krawler equiavalent lift, and some other posts have suggested Synergy adjustable control arms. I'd rather do an "all in one" versus a piece together, but I'd appreciate any pro/cons on what I'm thinking, or other suggestions.

Thanks!
Both are excellent lift kits... For a single out of the box with minimal tweaking or additional parts, the Metalcloak kits are hard to beat. I do prefer their control arms over the RK's for sure.

But if I was buying something where I didn't mind buying the control arms separately, adding the Tier 3 or 4 Core 4x4 arms to any kit is an excellent upgrade.

Also, the Rancho 4" kit is a real performer too... @AOR can get you some great pricing.

2018 - 2007 Jeep Wrangler JK 2/4 Door - 4-in. Crawler Short Arm System - RS66114B - Rancho® Performance Suspension & Shocks

AOR likes this.
__________________
2006 LJ Rubicon - Solar Yellow - Very Stock'ish - The Press Casual LJ-R build
2012 JKU Sahara - Pro Comp LED Headlights - PRS Audio mod- SWS - GraBars - Bestop Cargo Cover
- Mopar 2" Frankenlift - Teraflex Falcon Shocks - RE TB/Brackets - JKS mount/Bilstein stabilizer -
Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
- TORQ Locker - 1310 Driveshaft - PowerTrax Grip Pro - Full Core 4x4 Control Arms and Track Bars
Pressurized is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 06:39 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
Toolmaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 74
I initially went with the 3.5 Gamechanger for my 2 dr Recon. After some reading and listening to others that know more than I do, I decided to exchange the coils for the 2.5’s

I went with Metalcloak because of their excellent reputation and customer service. I heard some issues regarding corrosion with Rockcrawler lifts and the company not standing by their products. Whether that is true , I am not sure, but was enough for me to look
Elsewhere, and once I found Metalcloak, I never looked back.

One thing about most control arms is there are no wrench flats on the them to facilitate tightening the jam nuts. Seems like a bad idea forcing the arms sideways in the mounts to get the nuts tight.
Toolmaker is offline   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 07:31 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
Leadnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Arizona
Posts: 4,668
Quote:
Originally Posted by ExPatWillys View Post
Here's my JK with a 3.5 AEV lift (actually netted 4.5) and 285/75R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W (nominally 34 but actually 33 on the Jeep at 30 psi).

I like the look and get lots of questions about the lift. YMMV.

The Falkens are great tires in the winter (mountain snowflake every bit as good as the Duratracs) and tough enough for the rocky trails round here (which have a reputation for shredding Durtracs)
I think the 2 door looks better with more gap than the 4 door, at least to me. This is when I had 2.5" lift (netted around 2.75") with 35s (actual rolling 34"). It's hard to tell with pictures, but the gap looked good and no issues with rubbing.

ExPatWillys and DIRT BOY like this.
__________________
2014 JKU Willys 6-spd, RK X-Factor 3.5", Fox Resis, KM3 37s, PR60s, Eaton e-lockers, 5.13, Atlas II 3.8, and another $10K in miscellaneous parts.
Leadnut is online now   Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 09:13 PM
Thread Starter
  #15
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
64Chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 701
Thanks to all who weighed in. I'd really like to net about 3 inches. Normally that would be the 2.5" lift, as these often deliver more than advertised. But, I have a Teraflex coil leveling lift that should yield 2" front/ 1'' back. It is yielding +1 1/4 front (so down 3/4 of an inch) and - 1/4 back (so down 1 1/4 inches). I have a lot of weight in my rig--so this makes me worry that the 2.5" lifts won't net me quite enough, but that the 3.5" lifts will be a little tall. Fortunately with these complete kits changing the height only involves new springs (and adjusting everything).
64Chevy is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 11:04 AM   #16
AOR
Jeeper
 
AOR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mount Aukum, CA - El Dorado County about 55 mins from the Rubicon Trail
Posts: 5,579
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64Chevy View Post
Thanks to all who weighed in. I'd really like to net about 3 inches. Normally that would be the 2.5" lift, as these often deliver more than advertised. But, I have a Teraflex coil leveling lift that should yield 2" front/ 1'' back. It is yielding +1 1/4 front (so down 3/4 of an inch) and - 1/4 back (so down 1 1/4 inches). I have a lot of weight in my rig--so this makes me worry that the 2.5" lifts won't net me quite enough, but that the 3.5" lifts will be a little tall. Fortunately with these complete kits changing the height only involves new springs (and adjusting everything).
Just throwing this out there. The RK coils springs are rated for fully loaded trail rigs. So, rockers, body armor, HD tire carrier with full-sized spare, front bumper and winch, and gear etc., is all calculated to still net you the 2.5" of advertised lift. If you do not have all this heavy equipment, you will net more lift with their springs. If you were in stock trim, and had the 2.5" springs, you would be closer to 3.25".

Also, don't be affraid to dial in your ride height with any coil lift by using spring spacers.

If you have any questions that I can help with (tweaking the lift for your needs, pricing, etc.) shoot me a PM or email.

Have a blessed and prosperous day!

Allen
Pressurized and Leadnut like this.
__________________
Allen's Offroad - 530-620-1100
Email me at: [email protected]

FREE SHIPPING on orders of $99.99 or more. Equipment isn't everything. It's how you use it that counts!

Allen's Offroad
AOR is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 11:18 AM   #17
Jeeper
 
CommandoSandwich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Montana
Posts: 149
I went with the Metalcloak Gamechanger. If you take the time to dial everything in the ride is better than stock and it has very good flex.

You will get more than the advertised height if you're not heavily armored. MC says their numbers are with 700 pounds of armor. After installing their suspension I believe them.

MC is flexy enough you need to plan on exhaust spacers or swapping the driveshafts, even with the 2.5". I did aftermarket shafts to future proof the Jeep.

MC has great customer service. They never once complained when I was calling them with questions before the purchase. Shipping was super fast.
__________________


Be Jeep or be ain't
CommandoSandwich is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 11:31 AM
Thread Starter
  #18
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
64Chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 701
Quote:
Originally Posted by CommandoSandwich View Post
I went with the Metalcloak Gamechanger. If you take the time to dial everything in the ride is better than stock and it has very good flex.

You will get more than the advertised height if you're not heavily armored. MC says their numbers are with 700 pounds of armor. After installing their suspension I believe them.

MC is flexy enough you need to plan on exhaust spacers or swapping the driveshafts, even with the 2.5". I did aftermarket shafts to future proof the Jeep.

MC has great customer service. They never once complained when I was calling them with questions before the purchase. Shipping was super fast.
Driveshafts plural? I know the front needs to be done, and I was planning on it. I didn't think doing the rear was necessity, especially on a JKU, with the lower angles, but please set me straight.

I probably need to find a car/truck scale and weigh my rig to get an idea how much extra weight I am carrying. My side steps/rock rails are very heavy, but two of my three armor plates (and front bumper) are aluminum.
64Chevy is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 01:15 PM   #19
Jeeper
 
CommandoSandwich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Montana
Posts: 149
I don't think the rear shaft is necessary. I figured if i'm doing one, i'm doing both.



If you keep your rear factory shaft I think you will want to move your evap canister over a little bit. It's an easy mod. Just drill new holes. I moved mine over 1/2" even with an aftermarket shaft. Probably didn't need to but it made me feel better.
__________________


Be Jeep or be ain't
CommandoSandwich is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 01:22 PM
Thread Starter
  #20
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
64Chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 701
Quote:
Originally Posted by CommandoSandwich View Post
I don't think the rear shaft is necessary. I figured if i'm doing one, i'm doing both.



If you keep your rear factory shaft I think you will want to move your evap canister over a little bit. It's an easy mod. Just drill new holes. I moved mine over 1/2" even with an aftermarket shaft. Probably didn't need to but it made me feel better.
Thank you--good advice on the EVAP. I plan on doing that.
64Chevy is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 01:24 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
CommandoSandwich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Montana
Posts: 149
@64Chevy Here's a before and after. Before is stock suspension with Teraflex leveling kit. 2" front 1" rear. 255/80/17 KM2's

After is MC 2.5" GC, same 255/80/17's. Front and rear bumpers are both approximately 125lbs each. No skids installed in second pic as we were still dialing stuff in. I don't know exact measurement in this pic but it's over 2.5"
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Before After.jpeg
Views:	40
Size:	156.0 KB
ID:	4168021  
__________________


Be Jeep or be ain't
CommandoSandwich is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 01:32 PM
Thread Starter
  #22
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
64Chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 701
Quote:
Originally Posted by AOR View Post
Just throwing this out there. The RK coils springs are rated for fully loaded trail rigs. So, rockers, body armor, HD tire carrier with full-sized spare, front bumper and winch, and gear etc., is all calculated to still net you the 2.5" of advertised lift. If you do not have all this heavy equipment, you will net more lift with their springs. If you were in stock trim, and had the 2.5" springs, you would be closer to 3.25".

Also, don't be affraid to dial in your ride height with any coil lift by using spring spacers.

If you have any questions that I can help with (tweaking the lift for your needs, pricing, etc.) shoot me a PM or email.

Have a blessed and prosperous day!

Allen
The point about spacers is a very very good one. Thanks for making it.
64Chevy is offline   Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 01:57 PM   #23
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 246
I just finished removing my Mopar 2" lift and getting my MC 2.5" True Dual Rate lift kit installed on my JKU. I have flat fenders and 35" tires so didn't want to go with the 3.5" as it would have made the tires look small forcing me to go with 37" tires.

I have full skid plates, metal bumpers, winch, side steps, tools and still gained more lift than I thought I would.

Plan to go out later this week and hit some trails to see what all rubs if anything. Pretty sure I am going to have to trim my rock rails as they are much closer now than with the Mopar lift I am also running 3 bump stops in the front and 2 in the rear. Will adjust if needed.

Overall I LOVE the MC lift over the Mopar one. The only thing I kept between the 2 lifts was the front drive shaft.

Ken~
kmusk01 is offline   Quote
Old 08-06-2019, 07:09 PM   #24
Newb
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 2
I have the RK 3.5 XFactor and ran it with 35s for a few years. I did some pretty rough wheeling and it is my daily.

The downside is greasing the joints. Getting the front drive shaft is a smart move. I learned the hard way.

Watch out for fit and flex with front drive shaft with your under armor. I know people who have had issues.

The front track bar was a weak link. When getting in the big rocks, it got bendy : (
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	68E5A23A-A865-4909-BDF4-CAFCB1F291F5_1565136037300.jpg
Views:	24
Size:	167.9 KB
ID:	4168251   Click image for larger version

Name:	D5FF349C-70C5-4D43-9F68-8E78B0CB4AD3_1565136512484.jpg
Views:	24
Size:	229.8 KB
ID:	4168259  

RubiconLou is offline   Quote
Old 08-06-2019, 07:12 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
Mc1123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 126
Metal cloak all the way. Adjustable everything makes the ride better than stock and adjustable for future mods like tires. And RK springs do rust very quickly. Like In one northeast winter. Which is unfortunate since they are such a great company. I say if you’re not rock crawling 20 weekends a year and daily driving than 2.5 is more than enough for 35s. If there is even a thought of 37s than 3.5 minimum. I went 4.5 with 37s and flat fenders and there is quite a gap. But I also am planning to go 40s. Always prepare for the next step or it’s a waste of money. Front drive shaft is only needed if the boot rubs skid plates. Other wise can get away with rzeppa. Make sure your brake lines are long enough too. The ones metal cloak sent weren’t long enough for my shocks.
__________________
2016 JKU Hardrock Rubicon: 37-12.50-R18 Wildpeak AT/3, 4.5" Metal Cloak Game Changer, Falcon 3.3 shocks, Evo trussed Dana 44 axles, custom roof rack,
Redneck Ram 1.5" Ram assist, Rock Krawler Pro Tie Rod, Big brakes

Look what I did
Mc1123 is offline   Quote
Old 08-06-2019, 09:48 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
Jesse_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: South Bay
Posts: 70
Im also all for the metal cloak 4.5. I ran that with 35s for a year and just installed 37s.
Had a 2.5" aev for over 3 years. Super spongy and lots of roll. This metalcloak handles like a slot car, very stable.

I was so worried early on about the jeep being too high and people not wanting to travel with me. In the end the people who dont wanna get in (older friends and family) wouldn't get in with the 2.5 and 35s. 93 year old nana gets in now with a stepstool
Jesse_ is offline   Quote
Old 08-07-2019, 12:05 AM   #27
Jeeper
 
Cashburn1977's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 18
Rock Krawler 3.5 long arm Pro is the tits. I’ve wheeled the hell out of mine and my articulation is awesome.
Cashburn1977 is offline   Quote
Old 08-07-2019, 03:46 AM   #28
Newb
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Dickson City
Posts: 7
Lifts

Quote:
Originally Posted by 64Chevy View Post
Thanks to all who weighed in. I'd really like to net about 3 inches. Normally that would be the 2.5" lift, as these often deliver more than advertised. But, I have a Teraflex coil leveling lift that should yield 2" front/ 1'' back. It is yielding +1 1/4 front (so down 3/4 of an inch) and - 1/4 back (so down 1 1/4 inches). I have a lot of weight in my rig--so this makes me worry that the 2.5" lifts won't net me quite enough, but that the 3.5" lifts will be a little tall. Fortunately with these complete kits changing the height only involves new springs (and adjusting everything).



I have a metal cloak 3.5 inch game changer. I'd go 3.5 at least. I hear what your saying about height and getting in. Metal cloak has elements in the design to lower the center of gravity. I've had tons of yjs and Jk simply aren't as narrow even if the tires are kept in under the flares. I love my metal cloak, it rides better then stock on the road, I can do 95 down the highway like nothing. I can drop a 33.8 inch tire below my front bumper, I mean just to find the obstacle to do that is a challenge. I'm not knocking rock crawler, I heard their really great. Aev, I haven't researched that much. I'm just saying my wife drives the jeep in the winter, she has to be safe in it.

If your going to build it, build a nice machine. It just seems once you get going, you want to keep going. Once you put the time in, you want something that stands out a bit. I kept mine light, factory bumpers, we just added a 1 1/4 inch body lift so I can take more bump stops out and use the flex even more. Metal cloak 3.5 alone netted 4 1/4 in back, the front is around 5 1/2 cause it levels it nicely.

In the end it is up to you, I'm not knocking brands, I did approximately 40 hrs research as I've ran repair garages and have been lifting vehicles since I was a teen. I love to build things and I can not be happier with that lift. I really do not think the center of gravity, being tippy, going up another 1 inch from a 2.5 to 3.5 stated is what most people make of it. These jeep are much wider then the older cjs, yjs, tj,s. I just do not see how you want be happy with it. I can see doing a 2.5 , going wheeling and wanting more.

My two cents anyway. We bought front and rear driveshafts from metal cloak when I planned the build on a jeep with 155k mi. We added the front about 10k later because the boot started to rip, have not had to put rear in yet. And the boot could be because of the miles. So you probably do not even need those right away or at at. We're on a two door.
Jepman45 is offline   Quote
Old 08-07-2019, 09:02 AM   #29
Newb
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2
I spent probably 3 months doing research and settled on the 3.5 Game changer with Rock sport shocks on my 2014 JKUR. I have 35's and ran the Rubicon from Mile 0.0 at Wentworth last September with the slightest amount of rubbing but zero damage. I bought the complete kit. I would add that a buddy of mine runs the service dept at a Jeep dealership and he and I installed in a weekend at his dealership. When we dropped it and drove it around the block it was horrible. We put it on his alignment machine and computer aligned it and it handled awesome. No shake, pull, shimmy-Nothing-2 years later still awesome.I have friends with a variety of similar lifts and they don't work or ride anywhere near as well as my JKU. It flexes like crazy and everything is super heavy duty.
Rubicon Jeff is offline   Quote
Old 08-07-2019, 09:11 AM   #30
Newb
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2
BTW-Check out M.O.R.E offroad. They have small retracting steps with easy pull pins for rock crawling. My wife is 5'1' and loves them for getting in and out with 3.5 MC and 35's. The JKU is her daily driver that we take with us and wheel everywhere we go.

Rubicon Jeff is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.