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Old 11-18-2015, 02:41 PM
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First Oil change on my own

Hello,
This post is just a sanity check... before I transfuse my jeep.

I'm going to go ahead and do the oil change myself this time after getting it done via free dealer oil changes. Getting the oil change is an ok task for me.. it is more about which oil I'm going to use.

- 2013 JK Wrangler, ~15000 miles.
- I live in the north east(MA).. so cold weather area.

The manual says 5W-20... so I might go with that. I know many go 5W-30. Should I try synthetic this time around. If I do, do I drain the jeep in a normal way or is there a special step involved when oil type changes?

Any brands you guys recommend - syn and conventional?
I'm going to use the FRAM filter.

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Old 11-18-2015, 03:45 PM   #2
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Warm up your engine. Drive into onto a level surface. Remove your oil filter first. Next remove the drain plug. Let all of the oil run out, until it quits dripping.
Put plenty of oil on the new oil filter O'ring. Install the new filter and cap. Torque the cap to 18 ft. lbs. Do not over tighten the cap!!!
Re-install the drain plug and torque it to 20 ft. lbs. Next put in 6 quarts of new oil. Start it up and check for leaks.

I highly recommend, that you use a Mopar oil filter element!!!!!
As for the oil, what ever your owners manual recommends. And yes, it is O.K. to use a Chrysler/Jeep approved synthetic oil...

I use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic, 5w30.
But any Chrysler/Jeep approved engine oil is O.K.!

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Old 11-18-2015, 04:01 PM   #3
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^ great advice!
I second using the OEM filter and not over tightening the filter cap.

Also note that the '12 & '13 model Pentastars use a different filter than 14/15/16 Pentastars.

Good luck
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue baby sound View Post
^ great advice!
I second using the oem filter and not over tightening the filter cap.

also note that the '12 & '13 model pentastars use a different filter than 14/15/16 pentastars.

good luck
Good comment BBS!!!

Name:  2014FILTERvrs2013 oil filters.jpg
Views: 865
Size:  61.6 KB

^^^The filter element on the left, is for the 2012 & 2013.
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:44 PM   #5
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I use motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend in the jeep because my other two cars are fords. I started buying the OEM oil filter off of amazon. I just installed a 2.5" lift, so my future changes should be a little easier. I think I've changed it four times in the last 25,000 miles
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:30 PM   #6
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I always use synthetic oil. Use what the manual recommends weight wise.
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Old 11-18-2015, 11:14 PM   #7
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I've got a 3.8 not the 3.6 but I use mopar filter or wix filter, and Mobil 1 full synthetic
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dogger View Post
Warm up your engine. Drive into onto a level surface. Remove your oil filter first. Next remove the drain plug. Let all of the oil run out, until it quits dripping. Put plenty of oil on the new oil filter O'ring. Install the new filter and cap. Torque the cap to 18 ft. lbs. Do not over tighten the cap!!! Re-install the drain plug and torque it to 20 ft. lbs. Next put in 6 quarts of new oil. Start it up and check for leaks. I highly recommend, that you use a Mopar oil filter element!!!!! As for the oil, what ever your owners manual recommends. And yes, it is O.K. to use a Chrysler/Jeep approved synthetic oil... I use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic, 5w30. But any Chrysler/Jeep approved engine oil is O.K.!
Quick question for ya...I've done mine 3 times. The first time I attempted to remove the filter prior to the drain pan plug like you stated. Unfortunately oil came spilling up out of the housing and I still have some left in the crevasses in the engine bay you can't reach into. Does this not happen to you??
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:48 AM
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Thank you all for the information. Also thanks for the tip on the difference between the '13 and '14 oil filters.
I'm going for:
Amazon.com: 2011-2013 Chrysler Jeep Dodge Oil filter 3.6L Pentastar Engine MOPAR OEM: Automotive
and
www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038221-Platinum-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B00ELHNM3K
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:05 PM   #10
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Like copper head said, drain oil first to help alleviate a mess. Also, I do not have TQ wrench that goes low enough to register 20lbs, much less 18lbs, hand "snug" for the filter cap (like a pickle jar) and snug with a typical 3/8" socket on the pan plug, then give it a little snap... like you're going to punch your buddy in the arm just hard enough he'll call you a name, but not hard enough to bruise... That's my redneck description.
I like Mobil oil (5w20), Wix filters.
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Copperhead_1 View Post
Quick question for ya...I've done mine 3 times. The first time I attempted to remove the filter prior to the drain pan plug like you stated. Unfortunately oil came spilling up out of the housing and I still have some left in the crevasses in the engine bay you can't reach into. Does this not happen to you??
^^^Nope, that has never happened to me. Once that you start to unscrew the oil filter cap, then air enters allowing the retained oil to drain from the canister into the pan.
Please see below a Post from Kik, that references the oil draining from the canister.

The filter fits into the cap. It can't be pre-filled. If oil is poured directly into the housing it will drain into the sump. The way the 3.6 Pentastar engine is designed, there's no oil "anti drain back" valve incorporated into the filter element and it's not required or designed at the filter. This is additional info. regarding the lubrication system:

"A chain-driven (single chain), vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure.

A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow. If the oil is cold, the pump reduces the size of the internal chambers. When the oil is hot and thinner, more oil is needed, and a spring increases the size of the pump chambers. This also saves energy.

The pump is driven at a 1:1 drive ratio; its location under the block is more efficient than an on-crankshaft location. An internal, mechanical ball-and-spring relief valve dumps oil into the sump when needed, for conditions such as a cold start with high engine speed. Both pump and pressure regulation solenoid are non-serviceable. Removing the oil filter cap from the housing allows oil to drain from the oil filter cavity into to the crankcase".

Do you warm your engine up, prior to draining the oil? When warm, it should drain down faster.

I guess if removing the oil pan plug first works for you, then unscrewing the filter cap, would serve the same purpose. As long as you leave the oil pan plug out, until the oil stops draining.
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:53 PM   #12
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^^^Nope, that has never happened to me. Once that you start to unscrew the oil filter cap, then air enters allowing the retained oil to drain from the canister into the pan. Please see below a Post from Kik, that references the oil draining from the canister. The filter fits into the cap. It can't be pre-filled. If oil is poured directly into the housing it will drain into the sump. The way the 3.6 Pentastar engine is designed, there's no oil "anti drain back" valve incorporated into the filter element and it's not required or designed at the filter. This is additional info. regarding the lubrication system: "A chain-driven (single chain), vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure. A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow. If the oil is cold, the pump reduces the size of the internal chambers. When the oil is hot and thinner, more oil is needed, and a spring increases the size of the pump chambers. This also saves energy. The pump is driven at a 1:1 drive ratio; its location under the block is more efficient than an on-crankshaft location. An internal, mechanical ball-and-spring relief valve dumps oil into the sump when needed, for conditions such as a cold start with high engine speed. Both pump and pressure regulation solenoid are non-serviceable. Removing the oil filter cap from the housing allows oil to drain from the oil filter cavity into to the crankcase". Do you warm your engine up, prior to draining the oil? When warm, it should drain down faster. I guess if removing the oil pan plug first works for you, then unscrewing the filter cap, would serve the same purpose. As long as you leave the oil pan plug out, until the oil stops draining.
Wow, thank you very much for all the info.!! Hmm...sometimes I don't even make it to the point where air could make it in. Just a slight loosening and when the O ring starts to separate it starts seeping and running down into the engine bay.

Yep warmed it up but didn't do it hot. Let it sit in the driveway for maybe 5 min and then did it. I let it sit in the garage unplugged for a few hours every time.

Side note I only got 5 quarts out last change after 5k. I don't notice any leaks but maybe I got something going on here...strange.

My bad OP
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:32 AM   #13
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My 2012 specifications call for 5W30 oil. It would be interesting to know why it was changed to 5W20 for later models.
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:55 AM   #14
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Ford made the change from 5W30 to 5W20 several years ago, and the most common speculation I heard was the tenths of a mpg increase that helps with stats and CAFE requirements. CAFE is corporate average fuel economy. Google it and 5w20 versus 5w30. Lots of speculation on engine design.

5 means cold start viscosity and 20 means operating temp viscosity. It appears to be very complex as you dig deeper past that.
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Old 12-18-2015, 11:17 AM   #15
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My 2012 specifications call for 5W30 oil. It would be interesting to know why it was changed to 5W20 for later models.
educate thine-self, my friend :

Pentastar Engines: Overview and Technical Details

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Old 12-18-2015, 11:59 AM   #16
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The Pentastar 3.6 engine used in the 2012 wrangler and prior to 2012 in some other Jeep models, uses 5w30 viscosity as the factory recommendation.

2013 through 2016, the factory recommended is 5w20. But 5w30 is also a factory Chrysler/Jeep approved viscosity as a alternate. So either or viscosity maybe used.

I live in hot as Hell Phoenix, so I use the 5w30 viscosity in mine!!!

If I lived in Fairbanks Alaska, then I would us the 5w20.
My neighbor here, also has a cabin in Fairbanks and uses 0w20 in his up there!

So it is a choice, your choice..
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Old 12-18-2015, 12:51 PM   #17
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educate thine-self, my friend :

Pentastar Engines: Overview and Technical Details

There's a boat load of information there huh? Thanks!
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Old 12-19-2015, 03:08 AM   #18
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educate thine-self, my friend :

Pentastar Engines: Overview and Technical Details

That was great reading.

Ed
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:22 PM   #19
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That was great reading.

Ed
I thought you might enjoy that just reading your posts. Glad to share the wealth of info....I am sure you have bookmarked that Allpar page because it is a keeper......
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:34 PM   #20
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There's a boat load of information there huh? Thanks!
part of the enjoyment of owning a Jeep is the fun that comes from sharing useful information; you'll do the same for someone else someday.....& we shall all Jeep On!
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