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Old 05-23-2015, 09:24 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Raggnar View Post
I just got my '14JK 6 Speed back today (with 35s) where I re-geared from 3.73 to 4.88. WOW. Absolutely worth it. I've only got about 100 miles on it, however I can really feel the difference and I got my 6th gear back. I live on the Seacoast, however I go up to the mountains often. Also, I feel this will be so much better on my clutch and leg when rock crawling vs. the 3.73 I had, I felt that was just burning my clutch up.
what tires do you have? What's your tach say at 70-75?

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Old 05-23-2015, 10:07 PM   #32
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4.56

I have some Yukon 4.56 gears waiting to go in with my 35's on. Just waiting on the ARB locker.

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Old 05-23-2015, 10:12 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by 15RubieJK View Post
what tires do you have? What's your tach say at 70-75?
I've got BF Goodrich KO2 35x12. tach is showing about 3.5 on 75. That said, I do have it tuned using the Banks Automind with the following settings:
87 Sport Tune
35 Tires
4.88 Axle Ratio

Before I changed the Axle Ratio on the tune, (it was 3.73 which was the stock gears) the tach read higher, however I didn't get up over 50 before tuning it.
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Old 05-23-2015, 10:44 PM   #34
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Seems a bit high. I'm wondering if you're calibrated correctly due to most tires aren't a true 35. I'm still on the fence for 4.56 or 4.88s.
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Old 05-23-2015, 11:00 PM   #35
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I am definitely going 4.88 with my 6 speed.

The 3.21 and 35s are killing me. I use 5th exclusively and do frequently drop to 4th. So if I can get a bit higher rpm in 6th from regearing. Like 2600-2700 at 70 I will be able to pull mild grades with pedal.
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:32 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Raggnar View Post
I've got BF Goodrich KO2 35x12. tach is showing about 3.5 on 75. That said, I do have it tuned using the Banks Automind with the following settings:
87 Sport Tune
35 Tires
4.88 Axle Ratio

Before I changed the Axle Ratio on the tune, (it was 3.73 which was the stock gears) the tach read higher, however I didn't get up over 50 before tuning it.
Wow, 3500 rpm on the hiway must sound like a pissed off bumble bee. I still say if your 90% road and 10% off road, then you need to gear so you'll be near 2500 rpm at hiway speeds.
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:52 AM   #37
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3.56 gears are more than enough for 35" tires on a 3.6L JK. Realistically, you don't need more than a 4.10 gear. Using a lower gear will put the engine at an speed that has less available torque.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:43 AM   #38
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Wow, 3500 rpm on the hiway must sound like a pissed off bumble bee. I still say if your 90% road and 10% off road, then you need to gear so you'll be near 2500 rpm at hiway speeds.
Ha!!! So, I just went out and double checked and yea, you are right. I was hitting under 3k at 70 and at 75 just over 3k. it wasn't too bad actually.
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:00 PM   #39
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3.56 gears are more than enough for 35" tires on a 3.6L JK. Realistically, you don't need more than a 4.10 gear. Using a lower gear will put the engine at an speed that has less available torque.
3.56? I don't care what your graph says. The 3.6 pulls much harder north of 3k than it does anywhere under that.
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:03 PM   #40
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Also, the 3.6 used in the WK is tuned differently.
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Old 05-24-2015, 12:22 PM   #41
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When I make the jump to 35s I'll go with either 4.10 or 4.56.
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Old 05-24-2015, 01:59 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by 88Hatchy View Post
3.56 gears are more than enough for 35" tires on a 3.6L JK. Realistically, you don't need more than a 4.10 gear. Using a lower gear will put the engine at an speed that has less available torque.
a dyno and or gear/tire chart does not tell the whole story. They do not take physics in to account. So yes on paper my 4.10s with 35s is more than enough. In the real world if I get a hill or high head wind it starts to bog down. Take a look at the stock rubicon ratios. Those are for stock tires and lift height. So do you think it would be crazy going back to the stock effective ratio with 4.56s? Some people go slightly deeper to over come the situations I wrote above. It seems most on here are bench racers with no real world experience in the subject of this thread. I mean no disrespect to anyone in particular in here just calling it as I see it.
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:41 PM   #43
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Also, the 3.6 used in the WK is tuned differently.
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:48 PM   #44
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a dyno and or gear/tire chart does not tell the whole story. They do not take physics in to account. So yes on paper my 4.10s with 35s is more than enough. In the real world if I get a hill or high head wind it starts to bog down. Take a look at the stock rubicon ratios. Those are for stock tires and lift height. So do you think it would be crazy going back to the stock effective ratio with 4.56s? Some people go slightly deeper to over come the situations I wrote above. It seems most on here are bench racers with no real world experience in the subject of this thread. I mean no disrespect to anyone in particular in here just calling it as I see it.
I re-gear Jeeps for a living. Who's bench-racing now?

3.6L JKs have completely different gearing requirements than 3.8L JKs. Revving an engine higher than necessary only decreases it's service life. Ther is a Good reason why Rubicons were offered with both 3.73 and 4.10 options; you simply don't need that much gear with the new engine.
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:57 PM   #45
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Vader, 4.10 will probably be fine in Jersey but it can be seriously weak and annoying here in Colorado. Maybe drive a modded JK with 4.56s/35s and a stock Rubicon with 4.10s/35s, and then decide. All the shops here do 4.56 or 4.88s for the 3.6.
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:45 PM   #46
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I re-gear Jeeps for a living. Who's bench-racing now? 3.6L JKs have completely different gearing requirements than 3.8L JKs. Revving an engine higher than necessary only decreases it's service life. Ther is a Good reason why Rubicons were offered with both 3.73 and 4.10 options; you simply don't need that much gear with the new engine.
you're correct you do not need that much gear for stock tires,height, and weight. It's not the point of revving the engine higher with the 3.6 because it's well in its torque band. It's the extra mechanical leverage you get from the new gears. Otherwise my jeep should get the same mileage as stock with 3.73s because that's what the new effective ratio is. Oh wait it doesn't, why you ask? Because my tires are now heavier and wider which causes extra friction and requires more energy to turn. Next is aerodynamics I took a brick and lifted it in the air. Another thing the engine has to work harder to push through the air now. Last is weight. With bumpers, winch and tires I've added another 400lb to my vehicle. I do agree with you it's beneficial to have the engine turning as low as it can while still providing enough torque to move the vehicle efficiently. However as I stated before that chart doesn't tell the whole story. Your statement of never needing anything more than 4.10s with 35s is just simply not true. Some of the gear choices are subjective and will be dictated by personal preference of course. There's a reason certain gears are recommended for various set ups and environments.
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:05 PM   #47
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Vader, 4.10 will probably be fine in Jersey but it can be seriously weak and annoying here in Colorado. Maybe drive a modded JK with 4.56s/35s and a stock Rubicon with 4.10s/35s, and then decide. All the shops here do 4.56 or 4.88s for the 3.6.
Thanks for the advice. If I'm spending the cash to regear, maybe it's just best to go with 4.56.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:01 PM   #48
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Oh definitely. Nobody I called or talked to mentioned 4.10. I think since this is Colorado, a few recommended 4.88 but most said 4.56. Not one shop said 4.10 and my 4.10 isn't fun to drive with 35s here. It would be more tolerable at sea level and flat land but the 4.56 would still drive much better and put you back in the 4.10 with 32/33 inch tire power band....which seems to be perfect. If you are going to spend the money, the 4.56 is the best option. I'm holding off a bit because I can't seem to avoid having to drop $5k here and $5K there on house issues but the 4.10s annoy me each time I start to drive up the mountain highway to my condo. It's annoying enough to where we just take the 4Runner unless we are definitely going off road or on a trip.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:46 PM   #49
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you're correct you do not need that much gear for stock tires,height, and weight. It's not the point of revving the engine higher with the 3.6 because it's well in its torque band. It's the extra mechanical leverage you get from the new gears. Otherwise my jeep should get the same mileage as stock with 3.73s because that's what the new effective ratio is. Oh wait it doesn't, why you ask? Because my tires are now heavier and wider which causes extra friction and requires more energy to turn. Next is aerodynamics I took a brick and lifted it in the air. Another thing the engine has to work harder to push through the air now. Last is weight. With bumpers, winch and tires I've added another 400lb to my vehicle. I do agree with you it's beneficial to have the engine turning as low as it can while still providing enough torque to move the vehicle efficiently. However as I stated before that chart doesn't tell the whole story. Your statement of never needing anything more than 4.10s with 35s is just simply not true. Some of the gear choices are subjective and will be dictated by personal preference of course. There's a reason certain gears are recommended for various set ups and environments.
So, you'd rather have the engine spinning faster and cruise at an engine speed that has less available torque? Sounds like a solid plan.
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:55 PM   #50
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So, you'd rather have the engine spinning faster and cruise at an engine speed that has less available torque? Sounds like a solid plan.
How would the engine have less available torque? Have you ever seen a dyno graph for the pentastar? Also if you went to 4.56s it would put the engine rpm's back where you guessed it right where Chrysler had them in the first place. So can you tell me again how running those rpms are going to hurt the drive train? I think you need to go read a few books on how this stuff works. For someone who claims to install gears for a living you seem to have a limited grasp on the subject. I certainly hope you're not giving recommendations on the subject to your customers. They would be receiving a disservice. On that note I'm going to cut it off here to avoid continuing to muck up the OP's thread.
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:20 AM   #51
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How would the engine have less available torque? Have you ever seen a dyno graph for the pentastar? Also if you went to 4.56s it would put the engine rpm's back where you guessed it right where Chrysler had them in the first place. So can you tell me again how running those rpms are going to hurt the drive train? I think you need to go read a few books on how this stuff works. For someone who claims to install gears for a living you seem to have a limited grasp on the subject. I certainly hope you're not giving recommendations on the subject to your customers. They would be receiving a disservice. On that note I'm going to cut it off here to avoid continuing to muck up the OP's thread.
I posted two dyno-graphs of the pentameter engine in this thread, actually. Both of them show more torque output at 2400 rpm vs 3000-3500 rpm. How does that foot taste?
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:27 AM   #52
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thanks. Feel a lot more secure putting 35s on my auto 3.37 now and not having to regear instantly
yeah, it will be drivable but you will probably want to switch the overdrive off.
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:37 AM   #53
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The JK chart seems to show a pretty flat line between 1800-3600 with an increase after that. 4.10s are simply adequate with 4.56s being a much better choice, especially on uneven terrain.
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:43 AM   #54
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I posted two dyno-graphs of the pentameter engine in this thread, actually. Both of them show more torque output at 2400 rpm vs 3000-3500 rpm. How does that foot taste?
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I posted two dyno-graphs of the pentameter engine in this thread, actually. Both of them show more torque output at 2400 rpm vs 3000-3500 rpm. How does that foot taste?
one I would go look at the jk graph again if I were you. Two no where did I say running 3.5k was what you would be running. Again you cannot make to leap to other variables like mechanical leverage will be increased by lower ratio gears. Hence why even stock nobody really cares for the 3.21s. You're claim of never needing more than 4.10s and 35s is still false. How would I know this? Umm because I drive that combo everyday currently. In the real world not just a color coded picture. Next you're going to tell me the 3.07s that most likely your TJ has runs great because that's what it says on paper. Yes owned one of those too so not a guess on that on either. Lastly unlike Florida most of America has these things called hills. So running a lower ratio helps the vehicle make it up those pesky things to include having a lower crawl ratio to move over the things that are usually located near previously said hills called rocks.
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Old 05-25-2015, 01:41 AM   #55
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I re-gear Jeeps for a living. Who's bench-racing now? 3.6L JKs have completely different gearing requirements than 3.8L JKs. Revving an engine higher than necessary only decreases it's service life. Ther is a Good reason why Rubicons were offered with both 3.73 and 4.10 options; you simply don't need that much gear with the new engine.
Just because you regear jeeps for a living (if that's even true) doesn't mean you know what you're doing, or talking about. I'm certainly not convinced. 15rubi makes a valid argument regarding leverage. Regearing is, in effect, moving a fulcrum in relation to its lever. All those changes rubi mentioned (aerodynamics, mass, etcetera) have profound implications to which you are seemingly oblivious. Also, I don't think anyone with a stock rubicon would consider regearing in the first place. That makes your "reason for 3.73 and 4.10" comment ... um, less than meaningful.
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Old 05-25-2015, 03:29 AM   #56
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Went from 35s with 3.21 to 4.88 didn't lose any mpg and I can make hills without downshifting into 1st. And 6th is a useable gear now. 75mph on the freeway isn't a problem. All smiles here. Best money I've ever spent.
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Old 05-25-2015, 03:30 AM   #57
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Forgot to mention that's on a 2013 jku 3.6l
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:21 AM   #58
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One thing to keep in mind with that chart is very few tires people consider "35s" are actually 35" tall, most are going to be between 33.5" to 34" tall.
Thank you for the reminder! So many either don't realize this or forget it soon after looking thru tire books/ads to get to the next or larger selections.
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Old 05-25-2015, 11:11 AM   #59
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one I would go look at the jk graph again if I were you. Two no where did I say running 3.5k was what you would be running. Again you cannot make to leap to other variables like mechanical leverage will be increased by lower ratio gears. Hence why even stock nobody really cares for the 3.21s. You're claim of never needing more than 4.10s and 35s is still false. How would I know this? Umm because I drive that combo everyday currently. In the real world not just a color coded picture. Next you're going to tell me the 3.07s that most likely your TJ has runs great because that's what it says on paper. Yes owned one of those too so not a guess on that on either. Lastly unlike Florida most of America has these things called hills. So running a lower ratio helps the vehicle make it up those pesky things to include having a lower crawl ratio to move over the things that are usually located near previously said hills called rocks.
1. The graphs are identical. Available torque it higher at 2400 than it is at 3000. I'm not sure why you think that spinning the engine faster than necessary is going to help anything. Even running 4.88 gears with 40" tires would be acceptable since the engine would be at about 2400 rpm at 70 mph.

2. Here is a tire that measures 34" tall. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-25-2015, 11:27 AM   #60
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Just because you regear jeeps for a living (if that's even true) doesn't mean you know what you're doing, or talking about. I'm certainly not convinced. 15rubi makes a valid argument regarding leverage. Regearing is, in effect, moving a fulcrum in relation to its lever. All those changes rubi mentioned (aerodynamics, mass, etcetera) have profound implications to which you are seemingly oblivious. Also, I don't think anyone with a stock rubicon would consider regearing in the first place. That makes your "reason for 3.73 and 4.10" comment ... um, less than meaningful.
Let's use my TJ as an example of why neither of you know what you're talking about. Yes gearing is about leverage and how much torque is available to move the "lever". A stock jeep is geared so that the engine is capable of turning the tires with the torque it has. My TJ has a 2.5 L engine which has peak torque at 3100 rpm. In stock form, at 70 mph, the Jeep's engine would be at almost exactly 3000 rpm. When I built my TJ to have D44 front with an OX locker, RJ60 rear with a Detroit locker, full Johnny Joint arms, OME springs, TF SS SYE, high clearance skids, etc (read: more build than either of yours), I chose 5.13 gears because it puts the engine at nearly the exact same speed while cruising. I could have installed 5.38 gears for the exact same cost and work. I didn't because revving the engine higher doent help anything.

The TJ that allegedly has 3.07 gears:

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