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Old 05-26-2015, 03:19 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
This is quite hilarious, though not as hilarious as 4.10s screaming up Vail Pass in 2nd gear because it can barely hold 60 mph in 3rd.
I had my manual in 4th gear up Vail Pass this weekend with 4.56's and 35's.

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Old 05-26-2015, 03:48 PM   #92
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Good. Lock it. Our resident regear expert is not desperately trying to dig out of his hole but it is simply too deep and his desperate attempts to claw out are yielding nothing anyway.

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Old 05-26-2015, 03:52 PM   #93
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Wow. I missed alot... sounds like some people need to actually try driving some different rigs in different conditions instead of simply reading about how things work on paper and trying to convert that into how it will drive
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Old 05-26-2015, 05:03 PM   #94
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You can't possibly be as dense as the part you're playing. Gear choice about what the Jeep 3.6L engines do at certain speeds. If my claim was about engine speed it would say, "You want to cruise at 5000 rpm, no matter what." Yes, there is still enough torque at 3000 RPM, but why rev the engine 25% faster than necessary, causing (potentially) 25% more wear to the rings? It's not about "winning", it about people giving shitty advice based on experience that ends with the limited number of vehicles they have personally owned. To say that someone "needs" 4.56 or 4.88 gears for 35" tires on a 3.6L JK is asinine. Is the added expense of using OEM 4.10 gears worth it? Absolutely not, but if you have 4.10 gears there is no need to re-gear for 35" tires.
yeah you're right I'm giving advice on something I own and have experience with daily. You're making a guess off of a chart. Not the real world. Something tells me you're wrong often about things. Have you noticed this? Did you ever think that maybe the multitudes of people saying the opposite of what you are aren't wrong but you are? You clearly have no concept of physics both on paper and the real world. Also the wear on the rings in a properly oiled engine is very small during operations. It's during start up that's the hardest. So your 25% rule is invalid. Go back to the TJ forum. Maybe there's a few that will believe your bs in there. Funny for a TJ the standard recommended gear for 33's and a manual are 4.56s. Yet you say it's bs to say 4.56s are recommended for the jk with 35s which is a substantial increase in diameter and weight. I hope you're not the only employee that does your job at your shop. Otherwise I would be saving my money for unemployment if I were you.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:41 PM   #95
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I knew a truck driver when I was younger. I remember bragging about all the miles I'd driven. He told me that all my driving wouldn't make a pimple on a truck driver's arse. My first jeep, as a teen (47 now), was a CJ5. I'm on my fifth now (XJ, TJ, WK JK), I've done a lot to make her mine and I've learned a lot along the way. But I know damn well that all my Jeep experience wouldn't make a pimple on someone like Derf's dairy aire either.

And Ken, sorry for being a jerk. I'll try to act at least half my age.

Here, I'll be the bigger man.

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And yes, rambling on about the "terminal velocity" of a 40" tire and other nonsense.
You may have a point here.

Please pardon this most egregious malapropism. Such circuitous dissertation of vernacular is simply discursive. If it please you, I am happy to massage the reference into more colloquial terms for your edification.

Pray tell.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:59 PM   #96
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I knew a truck driver when I was younger. I remember bragging about all the miles I'd driven. He told me that all my driving wouldn't make a pimple on a truck driver's arse. My first jeep, as a teen (47 now), was a CJ5. I'm on my fifth now (XJ, TJ, WK JK), I've done a lot to make her mine and I've learned a lot along the way. But I know damn well that all my Jeep experience wouldn't make a pimple on someone like Derf's dairy aire either.
I've only been wheeling for about 15 years so my experience on the trails wouldn't make a pimple on the "dairy aire" of a lot of people out there. I'm just an engineer that has studied gears a lot more than the average guy. I have a few answers for a few people on a few topics but I still have a lot more to learn. And I'm happy to learn from anyone who really knows what they're talking about more than me.

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Please pardon this most egregious malapropism. Such circuitous dissertation of vernacular is simply discursive. If it please you, I am happy to massage the reference into more colloquial terms for your edification.
Ya know. My mother told me never to use a big word when a diminutive one would suffice.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:12 PM   #97
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It's interesting, a person could spend a lifetime learning and still not know what another learns in a few short years. I guess it depends on how your brain is wired. I have a strong mechanical aptitude, or so I've been told. In other areas I'm nearly as inept as our friend hatchy. I know enough to spot it when it's real vs when it ain't.

Anyway, I appreciate your input ... and your bluntness.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:17 PM   #98
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Ya know. My mother told me never to use a big word when a diminutive one would suffice.
I'm a fan of words. I started collecting them when I was very young. Don't find much opportunity to use them unless I'm being a smartass. Might need a flowchart to explain that one.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:28 PM   #99
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terrabit, your words in post #95 has no place on Jeep or gun forums.

So speaking of regears, there is this shop here who may have hit the max cost I have heard of - $2,400 OTD. Okay, great shop and always busy but man, that hurts! Other shops are around $1,500.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:49 PM   #100
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terrabit, your words in post #95 has no place on Jeep or gun forums.

So speaking of regears, there is this shop here who may have hit the max cost I have heard of - $2,400 OTD. Okay, great shop and always busy but man, that hurts! Other shops are around $1,500.
That's about what everywhere in my town wanted. But there are no specialty 4x4 shops around me that I know of. I wound up driving 3 hours to have mine done at Northridge4x4
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:57 PM   #101
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Don't find much opportunity to use them unless I'm being a smartass.
If you were more like me and you were a smartass pretty much all the time you'd be able to get more use out of them.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:20 PM   #102
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You are correct the engine is most efficient at 2400. The goal with the gear swap for this particular situation isn't to run the engine higher that's simply a consequence. It's to give the engine the leverage it needs to over come the additional stresses brought on by the mods. At 75 I am running the golden 2400. However when a small hill or head wind hits the vehicle begins to bog. Why? Because it doesn't have enough leverage to push harder. The only time regearing would help raise rpms that are to low would be the guys with 321s and large tires ect. As good as the pentastar is at the end of the day it only has so much torque to give. It requires assistance from lower gears to move the vehicle effectively at highway speeds with hills ect. If I were running say a hemi or a descent size turbo diesel then yes I would say go with less gear and keep the rpms low because those engines have more than enough torque to handle the situation.
That was a very educational read you guys!! However you all failed to mention the stronger the flux capacitor the better your jeep will perform!!! Without 1.21 jigga watts it doesn't matter what gears u have!!! No all joking aside I that was a good argument and I think I am now ready to take my ASE certification!! Let's just try to keep it friendly we are all family!
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:27 PM   #103
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Let's just try to keep it friendly we are all family!
Wait. Should we keep it friendly or are we family? I'm not sure we can do both.

I'll stick with the friendly part myself.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:52 PM   #104
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That's about what everywhere in my town wanted. But there are no specialty 4x4 shops around me that I know of. I wound up driving 3 hours to have mine done at Northridge4x4
I think Northridge is an hour north of me but they have only been here maybe a year. I don't know how good/experienced their techs are. Not sure I want to go back and forth that far either- in case I run into problems.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:57 PM   #105
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I had my manual in 4th gear up Vail Pass this weekend with 4.56's and 35's.
I almost always stay in 3rd with a loaded or unloaded Jeep but with a passenger and gear, it will pop into screaming second if I try to stay at 65. I back off and get it back to 3rd and resume. Same thing happened with my 2012 auto JK but it was more rare (maybe the lower overall weight). If I stay at or below 60, it will consistently stay in 3rd up the pass. That is hard to do sometimes since I can get stuck behind a semi doing 35 and need to stay with the flow of traffic in general.

So this tells me I need 4.56s even more....no need for 4.88. THANK YOU for this post!!!
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:43 PM   #106
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I almost always stay in 3rd with a loaded or unloaded Jeep but with a passenger and gear, it will pop into screaming second if I try to stay at 65. I back off and get it back to 3rd and resume. Same thing happened with my 2012 auto JK but it was more rare (maybe the lower overall weight). If I stay at or below 60, it will consistently stay in 3rd up the pass. That is hard to do sometimes since I can get stuck behind a semi doing 35 and need to stay with the flow of traffic in general.

So this tells me I need 4.56s even more....no need for 4.88. THANK YOU for this post!!!
There is a little bit of a difference between the auto and the manual. I know I'd rather have 4.88's to have that little bit more oomph and better rock crawling with my manual. But 4.56's are "good enough".

I don't have any direct experience with the automatic. Others may have better advice than I can offer.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:49 PM   #107
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I just installed 35s on my 4:10 Rubi. I (Without calibration) have driven it locally light to light, and power/torque seems of little decrease. However my fiancé has driven it on the freeway and notices a substantial difference.

Let's hope the recalibration takes care of most of that!
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:03 AM   #108
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I'm pretty sure this thread has killed kittens.
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:27 AM   #109
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I'm pretty sure this thread has killed kittens.
And brain cells
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Old 05-27-2015, 07:29 AM   #110
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I just installed 35s on my 4:10 Rubi. I (Without calibration) have driven it locally light to light, and power/torque seems of little decrease. However my fiancé has driven it on the freeway and notices a substantial difference. Let's hope the recalibration takes care of most of that!
not sure of your transmission however a calibration will make the speedo correct. If you have a auto then it will allow your trans to shift at the proper time. You will always still feel a little sluggish until you regear.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:45 AM   #111
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I was leaning towards 4.56 because I don't think 4.88 will help me any during crawling. With a Rubicon T-case ratio, my crawling is relatively unchanged and excellent even with 4.10s in 4Lo....it is mainly mountain-highway driving that has suffered significantly. I am afraid 4.88 will keep my revs too high and buzzy at 75 mph on long trips. I'm not sure I want to run at close to 3,000 RPM for 6 hours on the way to Moab or Ouray. I tried that by dropping a gear on the highway for a while and at 70 mph, it was getting close to 3,000 RPM, which makes things louder and buzzier.

So now leaning more towards 4.56. Of course, the basement flood this weekend just wiped out my squirreled-away regear fund and more, but I'll figure something out.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:59 AM   #112
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I was leaning towards 4.56 because I don't think 4.88 will help me any during crawling. With a Rubicon T-case ratio, my crawling is relatively unchanged and excellent even with 4.10s in 4Lo....it is mainly mountain-highway driving that has suffered significantly. I am afraid 4.88 will keep my revs too high and buzzy at 75 mph on long trips. I'm not sure I want to run at close to 3,000 RPM for 6 hours on the way to Moab or Ouray. I tried that by dropping a gear on the highway for a while and at 70 mph, it was getting close to 3,000 RPM, which makes things louder and buzzier.

So now leaning more towards 4.56. Of course, the basement flood this weekend just wiped out my squirreled-away regear fund and more, but I'll figure something out.
Honestly, changing from 4.10 to 4.56 is not a huge change and I'm not sure it would really be worth the money. There's nothing wrong with downshifting the transmission when you're going over a pass.

But I hear what you're saying about wanting 4.56's. It's like taking every gear a half step that gets your revs up "high enough" without being "too high" from your perspective.

I went with 4.56's because I started with 3.21's. Anything in the 4.xx range for me was a big change.

The fundamental problem that we all deal with is that the Pentastar just isn't enough engine for a heavy Jeep. It's better than the 3.8 but it still falls short. Gears can compensate somewhat but they're not enough. If you put in short enough gears for the mountain passes, you're getting your RPMs too high for daily driving.

I'm not in a position to drop a Hemi in my Jeep but I'm giving serious thought to either a Magnuson or Edelbrock supercharger. But that's a bit more money than gears and it will take a while to save up.
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:16 AM   #113
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You're right- the engine can rev pretty high for ten minutes without problems. A lot of guys here do use 4.88s...I just need to go drive one to see how it truly feels at 75 mph. Maybe High Country has one set up with 35s and 4.88s.

I wish they would revamp the Pentastar for more torque and HP or give us an upgrade option. It is a pretty gutless motor once you put bigger tires on. I was considering a LS swap but need to save some money this year, so a regear was my cheaper option. We go up to the mountains (have a tiny condo in Breck) a lot all summer and fall and I like taking the Jeep instead of the 4Runner so I can go off road. Maybe I'll take up yoga and meditation and the high revs will bother me less.
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:32 AM   #114
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I'm sure the Jeep crowd would line up to buy a set of "RV" cams for the Pentastar. Swap the high end horsepower for low end to mid range torque and you'd have a winner.
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:42 PM   #115
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I would never even consider a regear to go from 4.10 to 4.56, it's a small change for a pretty big investment.
I run 5.13 with 35's right now on my 6sp and it's still fine on the highway, does it rev higher? Sure but so what?
I've driven many vehicles that rev at or over 3000 rpm on the highway, unless your jeep is straight piped the noise is barely noticeable
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:47 PM   #116
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My 4.88s with 35s at 75 run about 3k rpm in 6th with the manual. For 35s I think 4.56 would have been ideal and Northridge4x4 even recommended I use 4.56 with 35s. But my plans are for 37s in the future and I didn't want to regear twice. But like others have said I don't think I'd even bother spending the money to regear if I had 4.10 stock gears. My 3.21 gears were unbearable for me to drive. 6th would lose speed on the freeway going downhill. It couldn't even push wind. 5th was barely useable at 70. Spent alot of time in 4th on the freeway if there were any incline. And taking off in first felt like a 2nd gear start in any normal vehicle. And all this was with the mighty 3.6 (turd).
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:53 PM   #117
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Yeah, the 3.6 isn't exactly a powerful motor as it sits in the JK. The again, they sell the hell out of Wranglers so what does Chrysler care.

So 4.10 to 4.56 is not very noticeable, huh? It is a huge chunk of change indeed. I'll call a few places again and see what they say....High Country 4x4, ROKMEN, Crawlertech, Northridge, etc...
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:58 PM   #118
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Ok, so i can't find specifics. Can anyone with a 2011 2dr Sport chime in here. Wanting to get info on regearing with 35s. Live in Texas and would like to do some mild off roading but my Wrangler is a DD. Please help???

Also have Smittybilt Bumpers with 3 in lift. Thanks
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:04 PM   #119
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Ok, so i can't find specifics. Can anyone with a 2011 2dr Sport chime in here. Wanting to get info on regearing with 35s. Live in Texas and would like to do some mild off roading but my Wrangler is a DD. Please help???

Also have Smittybilt Bumpers with 3 in lift. Thanks
Do you have an automatic or manual? In the 2011 and older, it makes a huge difference because the overdrive ratio is significantly different between them.
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:12 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by derf View Post
Do you have an automatic or manual? In the 2011 and older, it makes a huge difference because the overdrive ratio is significantly different between them.
6 speed manual, forgot to put that in.

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