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Old 02-04-2015, 12:16 PM
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got an estimate for $1000

Last week I observed some oil/grease spots on driveway and garage. Looked underneath and found said substance all over passenger side lower ball joint. Was told on here sounds like a bad axle seal, makes sense.

I work next to a belle tire. So I had them take a look at it. They tell me they don't do axle seals for that vehicle. They also said they don't think they are bad. They did however tell me the u joints are bad and need replaced. That the upper and lower ball joints would need replaced in order to do the u joints.

Got an estimate for $1004.

I'm not a mechanic but, It doesn't seem to me the ball joints need to be replaced to do that. Also, isnt there an axle seal at the outer edge of the axle housing that is pretty basic removal and install?

What else should be done if it's torn down this much?

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Old 02-04-2015, 01:21 PM   #2
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If you can see oil around axle shaft yoke where U Joint is it's prob the inner axle seal. Unless you can see a leak from another source in that area. The axle shaft seals are in side the axle shaft tubes close to the diff. The R&P carrier has to be pulled to replace seals. Most shops charge around $500 - $600 to do.The seal looking thing on outside of axle is just a dust seal, that's all.
Very labor intense, the seals are like $20 . As for axle shaft U Joints, Ball joints have nothing to do with them. But if the BJ's on it are original ones maybe time for new , check for play..

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Old 02-04-2015, 01:51 PM   #3
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I would work the joints in with seals. Everything is pulled apart anyways. It's not a hard job but as mentioned .. The carrier has to come out, both axles. How many miles on the U-joints?

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/u-...ct-873545.html
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Old 02-04-2015, 02:52 PM   #4
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Save you some time.

You need dana spicer 760x u joints (25 each) I used a Moog 271 (13 each on rock auto) since my local shop did not carry spicer parts.

it doesnt matter how many miles you have all depends on what you do to your jeep, i had to replace one at 5k miles and just did the other side at 30k miles.

for the inner axle seal-
these things are a pita to line up right and place. if you have never done it before i reccomend buying 2-3 extra (they are only a few dollars a piece) because you will likely ruin the first one trying to get it in. If you can find the dana spicer ones get them because the metal collar is longer, keeps you from deforming the rubber gasket during install.
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Old 02-04-2015, 08:02 PM
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Makes sense to do the seals and bj as long as it's apart. I can only believe they are original, 100k. I bought the jeep about 14k ago.

Why can't this stuff ever happen when its warm? Takes me back to when I was a kid trying to hold a flashlight rt for Dad.

I think I can do it pending any really nasty frozen bolts and such...sh it back on that memory lane, there were plenty of those. F
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QTec stealth headlights, 2" Rancho sport w/9000
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Metalcloak trk bar, drag link, tie rod, front control arms, ss brckt rocksport stabilizer.
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Old 02-04-2015, 08:03 PM
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Belle said they use moog
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09' jkur, 6spd,...sws
Smitty mod front w mid ends, bull, qtec 9000#s,
QTec stealth headlights, 2" Rancho sport w/9000
QT aux, Barricade sliders, 33/12.5/15 DTs on B Rock 909
Metalcloak trk bar, drag link, tie rod, front control arms, ss brckt rocksport stabilizer.
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Old 02-04-2015, 08:05 PM
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This would be in a clymer rt?
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09' jkur, 6spd,...sws
Smitty mod front w mid ends, bull, qtec 9000#s,
QTec stealth headlights, 2" Rancho sport w/9000
QT aux, Barricade sliders, 33/12.5/15 DTs on B Rock 909
Metalcloak trk bar, drag link, tie rod, front control arms, ss brckt rocksport stabilizer.
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:10 PM   #9
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Except for the cold factor, do it yourself. Use the $700 you save to buy you some nice tools. Hell you could spend $200 and get you a heater for your garage(if you have one that is) and still come out ahead.

Ball joints are $200 for top end Synergy. Obviously cheaper if you go with something like Moog or Spicer.

U-Joints are 25 bucks a piece times 2 so $50.

Axle seals are about 15 bucks a piece from dealership x 2 so $30.

To install them I went to harbor freight and bought 3 or 4 12" extensions. You insert these into the opposite side axle tube, through the center section and use it to drive in the new seals. I think its a 35mm socket to use to drive the seal in(bring the seal when sizing the socket and remember the seal will shrink as you press it in, the Craftsman socket I bought had to thick of walls and wouldnt allow the seal to seat all the way, had to go get an impact socket of the same size from Lowe's which had much thinner walls). Sockets are $30 or so because they are giant or you can rent big sockets from auto parts stores for free. The extensions at harbor freight were maybe 6 bucks a piece. Rent a u joint press which you would also use for the ball joints(just different adapters) or you could buy one for under $100. The only trick for Jeep ball joints is you need the special angled adapter since our outer C's have a weird angle and a flat adapter wont work. You also need a 36mm axle nut socket(unless they changed the size from TJ to JK) to get the outer stub axle shaft out of the unit bearing. Would need a $4 tube of gray RTV gasket maker to seal up the axle cover. $50 into a torque wrench. $15 in 75w90 gear oil. Im probably missing a few odds and ends.

Might also think about doing unit bearings while you have everything apart. I think you can get em from Rock Auto for like 85 a piece.

Hell you could do brakes while you are in there too for only maybe another $100(rotors, pads and re-man calipers from Napa).

As a DIY project you could refresh your whole front end, including any tools and a garage heater, for less than what you would spend for somebody else to do the work and only replace half the parts I listed.


When I can do my own work and save money, or acquire new tools with the money saved I do. I have farmed out work like a clutch once because the labor price was so cheap($150) and the guy had a lift and trans jack and it took him 4 hours total to do the clutch and I am sure it would have taken me 2 days. It was cheaper to farm it out than to go buy a trans jack and a few other tools I would have needed.
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:53 PM   #10
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Yes it does sound like an oil seal. On front axle the seals are installed from inside the pumpkin. You'll need to remove diff cover, pull both axles out, remove carrier, then replace right seal and reassemble everything.

I wouldn't worry about u-joints and ball joints for now, unless you can truly confirm they are bad.
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Old 02-05-2015, 09:48 AM   #11
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If I were you and was going to use a shop instead of DIY then I'd find an axle shop and get an estimate from them. They'll have experience with the Dana axle, have everything they need, and will be able to do it all faster and with the proper expertise. Save the tire shop for tires, and maybe brakes.
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Old 02-05-2015, 04:14 PM
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Thx for all the responses.

I got a friend who has been a master mechanic for 20+ years gonna help me out w it. Hmm, what to do while it's apart?? Lift it! Now I gotta settle on a lift and fast.
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09' jkur, 6spd,...sws
Smitty mod front w mid ends, bull, qtec 9000#s,
QTec stealth headlights, 2" Rancho sport w/9000
QT aux, Barricade sliders, 33/12.5/15 DTs on B Rock 909
Metalcloak trk bar, drag link, tie rod, front control arms, ss brckt rocksport stabilizer.
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Old 02-06-2015, 06:28 AM   #13
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Bigger tires in your future? could gusset the c's whist you're in there
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:07 PM
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anyone got a preference on axle seals?
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09' jkur, 6spd,...sws
Smitty mod front w mid ends, bull, qtec 9000#s,
QTec stealth headlights, 2" Rancho sport w/9000
QT aux, Barricade sliders, 33/12.5/15 DTs on B Rock 909
Metalcloak trk bar, drag link, tie rod, front control arms, ss brckt rocksport stabilizer.
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:35 AM
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Jakbak, just reread, thx for the spicer suggestion on axle seal.

I've done some looking into replacing these seals and on another forum heard of people replacing these and turn around and have to do it again rt away. Which got me asking here about quality seals.

Without relaying this concern to my mechanic he told me something I should've already thought of...the breather hose off the differential could be blocked. I wonder how many people had this going on who changed them out just to them leaking again a short time later. Just thought I would pass that along.
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09' jkur, 6spd,...sws
Smitty mod front w mid ends, bull, qtec 9000#s,
QTec stealth headlights, 2" Rancho sport w/9000
QT aux, Barricade sliders, 33/12.5/15 DTs on B Rock 909
Metalcloak trk bar, drag link, tie rod, front control arms, ss brckt rocksport stabilizer.
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:40 AM   #17
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Can't speak on axle seals, will say that make sure you don't buy the spicer 760x because it won't fit the Rubicon. I saw a guy linked above, but in case you want some cheaper, I order mine through Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:42 AM   #18
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I just replaced my seals and actually have an extra set of the newer two piece axle seal. if you need them you can have them?
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:39 PM
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kjeeper what did you use?

Just a little update...my mechanic friend checked it out...

says the ball joints are tight and don't need to be done to replace the u joints as Jkuone said, so what the hell was belle tire talking about? this isn't the first time they have told me I need something done that I don't. Thank you Ray.

The lift...thinking Rancho 2" sport lift. I just want a little...of course the teraflex 2.5" is haunting me.
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09' jkur, 6spd,...sws
Smitty mod front w mid ends, bull, qtec 9000#s,
QTec stealth headlights, 2" Rancho sport w/9000
QT aux, Barricade sliders, 33/12.5/15 DTs on B Rock 909
Metalcloak trk bar, drag link, tie rod, front control arms, ss brckt rocksport stabilizer.
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strmanglr View Post
kjeeper what did you use? Just a little update...my mechanic friend checked it out... says the ball joints are tight and don't need to be done to replace the u joints as Jkuone said, so what the hell was belle tire talking about? this isn't the first time they have told me I need something done that I don't. Thank you Ray. The lift...thinking Rancho 2" sport lift. I just want a little...of course the teraflex 2.5" is haunting me.
I would knock them out regardless. Everything is apart to do u-joints/seals ... Get it all done and hopefully save on labor.

I bought the old one piece seal. I Wasn't confident with the install because one was slightly cocked. I ordered a second set thinking I was getting the same seal. Long story short ... I did not feel like waiting and put everything back together. I realized later I ordered the new part # seal.
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:56 PM
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I'll take em, if you fish I can trade you out some spinners or flies lol.

I thought I would order the spicer axle seals after what has been written.
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09' jkur, 6spd,...sws
Smitty mod front w mid ends, bull, qtec 9000#s,
QTec stealth headlights, 2" Rancho sport w/9000
QT aux, Barricade sliders, 33/12.5/15 DTs on B Rock 909
Metalcloak trk bar, drag link, tie rod, front control arms, ss brckt rocksport stabilizer.
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:11 PM   #23
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I'll take em, if you fish I can trade you out some spinners or flies lol. I thought I would order the spicer axle seals after what has been written.
Lol ... PM your address.

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