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Old 04-23-2016, 01:32 PM
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Having trouble deciding lift

Ok so the age old question of what should I do.
I have a 2015 JKUR auto with 3.73 and 16,000 miles. I have an $8,000 budget for everything I need.

Wants: 37's

I went to a local shop and he quoted me $8,000 for a RC long arm lift, foa 10" X 2" coilovers without res, regear to 4.88, axle armor (truss and c gussets front and rear), RC forged adj trackbar, front driveshaft by Tom Woods, 37" Discoverer STT Pro with wheels, programmer, and all labor for $8,000.

I am wanting feedback and thoughts.
He has been very helpful and friendly. Not that that is a reason to get ripped off, if I am.

I am still a few months out from pulling the trigger and deciding if I should go a different direction or what.

I have posted here before when I was in the early stages and had a much smaller budget. So I have some...some knowledge of things.

I've heard meh responses to RC and have heard meh responses to FOA as well and that is also a concern of mine.

Also yes it is a DD but will be a mild trail rig on the weekends with the eventual goal of rock crawling and much harder wheeling. Just trying, as much as possible, to future proof it so I don't have to upgrade in a year or two, to something bigger and better that I could have done in the first place.

Thanks in advance for any help

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Old 04-23-2016, 02:15 PM   #2
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Whatever you decide remember the tires and rims aren't free, I'm guessing they are coming out of the same $8,000 budget, are you getting 4 or 5 with the deal?.

Post up some pictures when it is done!!

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Old 04-23-2016, 02:47 PM
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Whatever you decide remember the tires and rims aren't free, I'm guessing they are coming out of the same $8,000 budget, are you getting 4 or 5 with the deal?. Post up some pictures when it is done!!
Yes wheels and tires are in that $8,000. Set of 5 for 2,800. So that leaves $5,200 for everything. I probably should've stated that. Thanks
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Old 04-23-2016, 02:52 PM   #4
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Don't need a long arm, especially RC. Don't need coilovers either. Go Rock Krawler or MetalCloak for lift.

With 37s and front locker, add hydroassist steering. If your shop didn't mention this - find another shop. Change gearing to 5.13.

Where are skid plates?

I built to rock crawl. Way way way over $8k to do right.
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Old 04-23-2016, 04:22 PM
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Don't need a long arm, especially RC. Don't need coilovers either. Go Rock Krawler or MetalCloak for lift. With 37s and front locker, add hydroassist steering. If your shop didn't mention this - find another shop. Change gearing to 5.13. Where are skid plates? I built to rock crawl. Way way way over $8k to do right.
He did mention hydro. He is a psc dealer but was trying to work with my budget. I will say it won't be on the rocks for at least a year so skids and armor will be added little by little until the time comes to go on the rocks.

You have responded in one of my other posts from awhile ago and was really helpful so I appreciate your response again.

I don't think I'll be wheeling it as hard as you do for awhile. It's important to state because I think that affects things. It will spend time on the highway so I feel like 4.88 would be better in that instance.

When you say I don't need coilovers, can I ask why? As far as long arm, he recommended it. I don't care long vs short personally. My goal for now is to get on 37s somewhat responsibly but down the road will upgrade to better handle the harder stuff I will eventually be doing.
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Old 04-23-2016, 04:27 PM   #6
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He did mention hydro. He is a psc dealer but was trying to work with my budget. I will say it won't be on the rocks for at least a year so skids and armor will be added little by little until the time comes to go on the rocks.

You have responded in one of my other posts from awhile ago and was really helpful so I appreciate your response again.

I don't think I'll be wheeling it as hard as you do for awhile. It's important to state because I think that affects things. It will spend time on the highway so I feel like 4.88 would be better in that instance.

When you say I don't need coilovers, can I ask why? As far as long arm, he recommended it. I don't care long vs short personally. My goal for now is to get on 37s somewhat responsibly but down the road will upgrade to better handle the harder stuff I will eventually be doing.
0 need for long arms or coilovers to run 37's. It is that simple.
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Old 04-23-2016, 04:33 PM
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I do understand that. Just wondering, if I can run coilovers, should I?
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Old 04-23-2016, 05:32 PM   #8
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On a JK, coilovers don't really buy you all that much in rock crawling to justify them. If you plan to do the highs speed desert rock racing like they do at King of Hammers - absolutely. But for slow speed rock crawling, not needed.

Long arms got much more of an advantage on TJs since their stock arms are short. The JK has much longer arms to be in with. Again, not needed. I have RK X Factor lift. Lots of folks out here love MetalCloak too.

I do the hard stuff. The only obstacles I have met that showed ANY limit of my rig are like the ten foot waterfalls lol - just don't have the wheelbase for them (and four doors have too much wheelbase for them and crunch on the break over at top). So not a mechanical limit, a design limit.

Here are things I would prioritize over coilovers for crawling:
Hydroassist
On board air
Low gearing
Steel skid plates
Atlas Transfercase
Dana60/14 bolt axles
Big brake upgrade
Replace every single factory mount bracket (ie control arms, shocks, track bar mount as they all suck and will break)
Aftermarket transmission crossmember
Roll cage
Beadlocks
A winch suck down on at least front axle (when doing big climbs the front end tends to come up as suspension unloads which takes weight off front and makes it harder to get traction, so you connect a winch to "suck down" the front end and get weight back on the tires)
Upgrade to 35 spline and air lockers
And maybe a few other things

These things will buy you more advantage than coilovers in crawling. Other issues with true non-bolt in coilovers - you need to drill the JK frame and tub to run them.
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Old 04-23-2016, 06:37 PM
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On a JK, coilovers don't really buy you all that much in rock crawling to justify them. If you plan to do the highs speed desert rock racing like they do at King of Hammers - absolutely. But for slow speed rock crawling, not needed. Long arms got much more of an advantage on TJs since their stock arms are short. The JK has much longer arms to be in with. Again, not needed. I have RK X Factor lift. Lots of folks out here love MetalCloak too. I do the hard stuff. The only obstacles I have met that showed ANY limit of my rig are like the ten foot waterfalls lol - just don't have the wheelbase for them (and four doors have too much wheelbase for them and crunch on the break over at top). So not a mechanical limit, a design limit. Here are things I would prioritize over coilovers for crawling: Hydroassist On board air Low gearing Steel skid plates Atlas Transfercase Dana60/14 bolt axles Big brake upgrade Replace every single factory mount bracket (ie control arms, shocks, track bar mount as they all suck and will break) Aftermarket transmission crossmember Roll cage Beadlocks A winch suck down on at least front axle (when doing big climbs the front end tends to come up as suspension unloads which takes weight off front and makes it harder to get traction, so you connect a winch to "suck down" the front end and get weight back on the tires) Upgrade to 35 spline and air lockers And maybe a few other things These things will buy you more advantage than coilovers in crawling. Other issues with true non-bolt in coilovers - you need to drill the JK frame and tub to run them.
Ok so coilovers and long arms, not needed. Noted So most the stuff like skids, axles, cross members, bead locks, I guess I realize I do need these things but I think I maybe explained things poorly. Let's pretend I'm not going to do rock crawling. Let's pretend I'm a mall crawler. What should I do to get on 37s safely. I only say this because the items your telling me to get are things that I agree on but I don't think I need at this phase in my build. Hopefully that makes some kind of sense haha. I should also say, I'm not looking to the bare minimum to get on 37s but something in between that and going nuts and buying everything. Like I said. $8,000 (5,300) budget realistically because of wheels and tires. What should I do with that money to get myself going. Obviously it'd be nice to get new axles, and all the goodies at once but it's always an over time type of thing.
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:55 AM   #10
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Definitely get the better lift (RK or MC) with trackbars/brackets, regear, do the trusses/gusset. Shocks and exhaust crossover. Programmer. Replace stock tie rod if at all possible - it can smiley face with big tires even at the mall.

Drive shafts won't explode immediately. Axle shafts will go sooner rather than later (especially rear) but not immediately. Ball joints will be on numbered days - have them inspected now and if they are even starting to go, replace them. If you are at the mall, skid plates won't be an issue. Brake life will be drastically decreased.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:13 AM
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Definitely get the better lift (RK or MC) with trackbars/brackets, regear, do the trusses/gusset. Shocks and exhaust crossover. Programmer. Replace stock tie rod if at all possible - it can smiley face with big tires even at the mall. Drive shafts won't explode immediately. Axle shafts will go sooner rather than later (especially rear) but not immediately. Ball joints will be on numbered days - have them inspected now and if they are even starting to go, replace them. If you are at the mall, skid plates won't be an issue. Brake life will be drastically decreased.
Any input on this Currie lift?
http://www.currieenterprises.com/suspension-kits
Since it comes with Jonny joints I thought maybe that was an option?
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:31 AM   #12
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Any input on this Currie lift?
http://www.currieenterprises.com/suspension-kits
Since it comes with Jonny joints I thought maybe that was an option?
Currie is quality but MC joints will treat you better for your purposes. Less maintenance too.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:34 AM   #13
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Get a set of high quality flat fenders from Poison Spyder or MetalCloak. Then do the Synergy Stage 3 version of their 3" lift. Rancho 9000 shocks, the long ones - 999331/999332. Top shelf 1310 front driveshaft (Toms, Adams, Synergy, etc).
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:42 AM   #15
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Currie is quality but MC joints will treat you better for your purposes. Less maintenance too.
MC joints require periodic maintenance iirc.
JJ's are known to go years without being taken apart.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:44 AM
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Currie is quality but MC joints will treat you better for your purposes. Less maintenance too.
Do you have any experience with MC? Pros or cons?
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:46 AM
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Get a set of high quality flat fenders from Poison Spyder or MetalCloak. Then do the Synergy Stage 3 version of their 3" lift. Rancho 9000 shocks, the long ones - 999331/999332. Top shelf 1310 front driveshaft (Toms, Adams, Synergy, etc).
What does the Synergy lift off that lets say MC doesn't. The synergy seems to be like $900 more than metal cloaks Gamechanger
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:48 AM
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MC joints require periodic maintenance iirc. JJ's are known to go years without being taken apart.
Am I wrong in saying that both MC and Currie will require maintenance. Is either easier to work on?
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:50 AM   #19
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Synergy has one of the most complete kits including steering correction. Although you could add that to MC's get for a few hundred more.
I liked Synergy with JJ's, now they run their own DD bushing Im not a huge fan of.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:52 AM   #20
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Am I wrong in saying that both MC and Currie will require maintenance. Is either easier to work on?
Eventually yes. Prob MC's. I rebuilt a JJ which required a tool and was tricky. Did not help being a front axle bushing which is part of the housing.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:54 AM
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Eventually yes. Prob MC's. I rebuilt a JJ which required a tool and was tricky. Did not help being a front axle bushing which is part of the housing.
This seems like a sweet spot in price to me.
http://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Game-Ch...on-p/7131.html
If I did this, Adams 1310, truss and c's, regear. What else would get me going?
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:04 PM   #22
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This seems like a sweet spot in price to me. http://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Game-Ch...on-p/7131.html If I did this, Adams 1310, truss and c's, regear. What else would get me going?
Nothing
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:10 PM
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Nothing
Hahahaha well that's simple.
After I got that done is look to do ball joints and some other axle upgrades as stuff starts to fade. Just wanted to make I wasn't leaving anything out. I suppose a programmer as well.
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:17 PM   #24
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Hahahaha well that's simple. After I got that done is look to do ball joints and some other axle upgrades as stuff starts to fade. Just wanted to make I wasn't leaving anything out. I suppose a programmer as well.
Well yea a programmer. As far as the lift you are all set.

Ball joints/gussets go hand and hand. Best to do together instead of worrying about saving the factory joints.
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:25 PM   #25
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I just did MC 3.5" on my JKUR. Stock fenders and easily clears 35s. I also added their Hi-Steer kit w Reid Racing knuckles. Handles BETTER stock !! Soaks up bumps, super smooth ride! Drives straight as an arrow at 90mph!! Flexes like crazy too. My buddy did 38s w Teraflex and Coilovers, installed by very popular SoCal shop and he gets bump steer and wandering on freeway. So upto U


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Old 04-24-2016, 12:27 PM   #26
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Notice speedo and no hands on wheel.



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Old 04-24-2016, 12:42 PM
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I just did MC 3.5" on my JKUR. Stock fenders and easily clears 35s. I also added their Hi-Steer kit w Reid Racing knuckles. Handles BETTER stock !! Soaks up bumps, super smooth ride! Drives straight as an arrow at 90mph!! Flexes like crazy too. My buddy did 38s w Teraflex and Coilovers, installed by very popular SoCal shop and he gets bump steer and wandering on freeway. So upto U
How was the install? That is some awesome flex. I'd be doing flat fenders because of the 37s so hopefully I wouldn't lose too much flex. Was there anything else you had to buy to make it work? What did the lift net you?
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:45 PM   #28
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I went the MetalCloak 2.5 Inch lift, and they say with their fenders, you can run 37's with 2 of their spacers... Similar to @Ripa77 . Mine handles VERY well....

I did however go with the 6-pack shocks.

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Old 04-24-2016, 12:53 PM   #29
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How was the install? That is some awesome flex. I'd be doing flat fenders because of the 37s so hopefully I wouldn't lose too much flex. Was there anything else you had to buy to make it work? What did the lift net you?
I'm running King 2.5s shocks so little less flex than if u choose their 6pack option. Call MC and ask about flat fenders causing less flex. I can see how that would happen. I didn't have to buy anything else.... I did choose to change drive shafts but u can do that in the future. For me it was hard to imagine a smoother ride w lifted JK. But it's amazing,
Super smooth and stabile w high speed turns.
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Old 04-24-2016, 01:02 PM
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I'm running King 2.5s shocks so little less flex than if u choose their 6pack option. Call MC and ask about flat fenders causing less flex. I can see how that would happen. I didn't have to buy anything else.... I did choose to change drive shafts but u can do that in the future. For me it was hard to imagine a smoother ride w lifted JK. But it's amazing, Super smooth and stabile w high speed turns.
I did notice they have a new kit that adds the high steer kit as well so maybe that's be a good one to go with. I also planned on a new front ds as well. Most the lifts I had been looking at was a 4" lift so I'm a little worried about 3 1/2

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