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Old 11-07-2015, 11:29 PM
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Exclamation Help broken exhaust flange bolt!

While trying to install exhaust spacers on my 2012 Rubicon today I ended up braking the lower exhaust flange bolt on the drivers side. I then tried to heat it and remove it with vise grips and eventually a small pipe wrench. Needless to say it just broke again. I don't know how to get this thing out I see no way to drill it I think I am screwed.

Oh, and in my brillance I cut about 60% of the way through the part of the bolt forward of the threaded flange thinking that if I cut it off there I would have less to try and get out (this was before the bolt broke a second time. So I am pretty sure turning the bolt out forward is not possible now.

I would like to find the stupid Jeep engineer that designed this exhaust especially the crap on the drivers side and give him a swift kick in the butt.

the passenger side came apart no problem but I have been on my back in a gravel driveway for over 6 hours messing with the drivers side. Any help would be......well very helpful.



Thanks in advance,
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Old 11-08-2015, 06:12 AM   #2
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Sounds like it was froze up from rust. Penetrating oil and time are your friend. If there is enough bolt sticking out, a good pair of vice grips should do the trick, other wise you will need to drill and use a screw extractor to remove it. A compact angle drill or die grinder will likely be necessary. Things could be worse, it could have been the upper bolt.

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Old 11-08-2015, 07:20 AM   #3
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if you still have a stub heat it up and melt some wax on it. the wax will wick into the threads and that is how the local exhaust shop deals with broken exhaust studs. If no stub left you will have to drill. an angle drill should work.
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:59 AM   #4
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That's really a bummer! Those bolts can be a real bitch. The instructions really need to tell you to start soaking with penetrating oil about 3 days before you are going to do the work. I soaked mine every evening for 3 days before and they came right apart. A set of vice grips will be the only way if you have enough bolt to still grip on to... Otherwise it's a drill and extractor.

Good luck.
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:28 AM
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Thank you all very much. I will get back to this today and see what I can do.
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:17 PM   #6
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Mine broke off too...i just used a torch to melt the bolt out of the hole then used a longer bolt n nut to replace it.
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Old 11-08-2015, 03:48 PM
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Exclamation Can I drive with just exhaust manifolds?

Well, I have tried WD-40, PB Blaster, propane torch, over and over and over. I am getting no where. I even bought two other vise grips, nothing is working. I do not have an angle drill or a dye grinder and I don't really have the money to buy one right now.

I think at this point I need to cut my losses and go to an exhaust shop in town tomorrow. So my next question is will my 3.6 liter run with just the exhaust manifolds without damaging anything? I would need to drive approximately 12 miles to get to the shop.
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:23 PM   #8
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if it were me I would not run it that way. Did you remove the exhaust? I think if nothing else at least how it back up with just one bolt and wrap some exhaust tape around the joint.
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Old 11-08-2015, 06:11 PM   #9
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Can you weld a bolt to it and remove it that way?

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Old 11-08-2015, 08:05 PM   #10
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You can buy a stud removal socket. They run about $50. They make removing broken bolts/studs easy. If there is any portion of the bolt/stud sticking out, this tool is your friend.
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:00 PM   #11
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i had exactly the same thing happen when i did mine, so i just drilled out what was left of the old bolt and used a nut (bolts that came with my kit were long enough). that was 2 years ago and haven't had a problem with it yet.
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:13 PM   #12
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Heat it up with MAP gas, the yellow can, not the blue one. Then spray it with PB Blaster immediately. Then more heat. Do this a few times and it may help.

My situation was even worse than yours. After I got the bolts out, I decided to run a tap through the flange to clear out the threads. Broke the tap off. I had to take it to my local shop and the mechanic used a cutting torch to cut out the flange nut.

The threads in that flange are not part of the flange. It's actually a separate piece that is pressed into the flange. It'll come out, it just may take some effort. Because the alternative sucks - the 3.6L doesn't have a traditional exhaust manifold - it's part of the head.
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:51 AM
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Heat it up with MAP gas, the yellow can, not the blue one. Then spray it with PB Blaster immediately. Then more heat. Do this a few times and it may help.
I think this was my problem I was using the regular blue can rather than the yellow map gas and could not get the bolt hot enough. Also I was laying on my back in a gravel diveway which did not help either.

I have AAA so I just had them pick up the Jeep and take it to the local muffler shop. They heated up all four inserts with a torch and knocked them out with an air chisel. Then I had them go ahead and bolt every thing up since it is a billion times easier on the rack and I was already paying them.

They got everything all hooked up very well no leakes and no rattles for $64. I wish I would have just taken it to them in the first place. However now if I ever need to mess with it again it will not be a problem because it is secured the way it should have come from the factory, with a bolt and a nut.

What really gets me is that the only possible reason for the flanges to have theaded nut inserts is so that some guy on the assembly line does not have to hold a wrench on one side while he tightens the other. This could not save more than a few seconds at most in assembly time and it is just one more example of how these stupid little changes make it very hard for the guy that only has common hand tools to work on their own vehicle. I mean computer systems are one thing I expect to have to take it in but things like this just make no sense.
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Call Of Duty MW3 View Post
I think this was my problem I was using the regular blue can rather than the yellow map gas and could not get the bolt hot enough. Also I was laying on my back in a gravel diveway which did not help either.

I have AAA so I just had them pick up the Jeep and take it to the local muffler shop. They heated up all four inserts with a torch and knocked them out with an air chisel. Then I had them go ahead and bolt every thing up since it is a billion times easier on the rack and I was already paying them.

They got everything all hooked up very well no leakes and no rattles for $64. I wish I would have just taken it to them in the first place. However now if I ever need to mess with it again it will not be a problem because it is secured the way it should have come from the factory, with a bolt and a nut.

What really gets me is that the only possible reason for the flanges to have theaded nut inserts is so that some guy on the assembly line does not have to hold a wrench on one side while he tightens the other. This could not save more than a few seconds at most in assembly time and it is just one more example of how these stupid little changes make it very hard for the guy that only has common hand tools to work on their own vehicle. I mean computer systems are one thing I expect to have to take it in but things like this just make no sense.
Glad you got it handled, and cheap at that... You had that much invested in the first 3 hours working on it yourself!
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Old 01-25-2020, 11:11 PM   #15
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Similar problem here. Went to the dealer service counter and their system says the flange, nut and bolt are 3 different pieces, but there is no part number for the flange.

Thanks for confirming what I suspected, that nut looks like it's got a shaft pressed in the flange. I thought maybe the nut was corroded to the flange because the parts came up as separate in the Jeep dealership pc.

I've spent last weekend and today wrenching on it in similar ways, including daily SPBlaster coatings. I haven't tried the yellow can of heat so I'll try that tomorrow and then take it to some shop if that doesn't work. Hope I get a decent price like above, the guy on the phone today said he'd have to look at it before giving any price...
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Old 01-31-2020, 08:32 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Danitron View Post
Similar problem here. Went to the dealer service counter and their system says the flange, nut and bolt are 3 different pieces, but there is no part number for the flange.

Thanks for confirming what I suspected, that nut looks like it's got a shaft pressed in the flange. I thought maybe the nut was corroded to the flange because the parts came up as separate in the Jeep dealership pc.

I've spent last weekend and today wrenching on it in similar ways, including daily SPBlaster coatings. I haven't tried the yellow can of heat so I'll try that tomorrow and then take it to some shop if that doesn't work. Hope I get a decent price like above, the guy on the phone today said he'd have to look at it before giving any price...
Take a punch and hammer it out
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Old 01-31-2020, 08:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danitron View Post
Similar problem here. Went to the dealer service counter and their system says the flange, nut and bolt are 3 different pieces, but there is no part number for the flange.

Thanks for confirming what I suspected, that nut looks like it's got a shaft pressed in the flange. I thought maybe the nut was corroded to the flange because the parts came up as separate in the Jeep dealership pc.

I've spent last weekend and today wrenching on it in similar ways, including daily SPBlaster coatings. I haven't tried the yellow can of heat so I'll try that tomorrow and then take it to some shop if that doesn't work. Hope I get a decent price like above, the guy on the phone today said he'd have to look at it before giving any price...
Old fashioned muffler shop... Their labor rates are usually half what "other" shops are. I needed a flange cut off and re-welded on my Miata, $50 out the door.

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Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
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