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Old 08-03-2019, 03:41 PM
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Help me wire up daytime running lights please

2008 JK. Got some fog lights to replace factory fog lights (lenses are glazed over) and they have a halo ring. The fog lights come with the factory plug so that's a quick swap. Halo has one yellow wire coming from it. I need to run that to something that is keyed... do not have a lot of experience with this kind of project. Where should I run that yellow wire? Thanks!

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Old 08-03-2019, 06:54 PM   #2
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Do you want them to come on with fogs, or do you want separate control?

A) If you want on when fogs are on, then just use t-taps on the fog power and ground (risk throwing a fog circuit voltage code)

B) Else you need a relay, relay socket, a 3 prong switch and a mini ATM fuse tap (pictured below) or a fuse holder and a 5 or 10 amp fuse.

If you choose B then respond and I’ll tell you how it gets wired. It’s stupid easy.

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Old 08-03-2019, 11:25 PM
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I want to run the halos as daytime running lights. When I turn the key I want them to come on, whether I'm running any other lights (headlights, fog lights, parking lights). I want them as DRL's.

I did some googl'ing and it looks like I just need to go run a fuse tap into the fuse box.

Like here:

https://www.altitudejeep.com/blogs/t...ur-headlights#


Use M7 in the box? Other ideas? I'm open to suggestions!
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Old 08-04-2019, 01:16 AM   #4
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That sounds correct. Just use a voltmeter to make sure the acc fuse slot stays 12 volts when the key is turned on and you should be good to go.
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Old 08-04-2019, 02:19 AM   #5
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I’d still run a relay.
Run the switches/acc fuse tap to relay pin 86
then that yellow wire of your halo to relay pin 87
Relay pin 30 to another fuse tap in a fuse spot that always has power (not switched with acc)
Relay pin 85 to ground

Important: you are fusing for the wire, NOT the device. If that wire is a super small gauge then make sure that the fuse that you use is 10 or less. If your tap is tapping a 20amp circuit, you can use that 20amp for the normal circuit and a 10, 7.5 or even 5amp fuse for your device. Just make sure that you know which one goes to which circuit. It will be obvious because you can test which tap slot equates to lighting up your halo.

Make sense?
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laggy View Post
I’d still run a relay.
Run the switches/acc fuse tap to relay pin 86
then that yellow wire of your halo to relay pin 87
Relay pin 30 to another fuse tap in a fuse spot that always has power (not switched with acc)
Relay pin 85 to ground

Important: you are fusing for the wire, NOT the device. If that wire is a super small gauge then make sure that the fuse that you use is 10 or less. If your tap is tapping a 20amp circuit, you can use that 20amp for the normal circuit and a 10, 7.5 or even 5amp fuse for your device. Just make sure that you know which one goes to which circuit. It will be obvious because you can test which tap slot equates to lighting up your halo.

Make sense?
uh ... no. no clue. how do I "run a relay?" why is that better than just doing a fuse tap?
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Old 08-04-2019, 05:12 PM   #7
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uh ... no. no clue. how do I "run a relay?" why is that better than just doing a fuse tap?
You are running a fuse tap AND a relay. Relay is powered switch. It’s so you don’t run power to a switch inside your vehicle or overuse a small circuit by tapping too much power from it.

In your case, the ACC circuit is just sending a very small current to the trigger on relay (you only draw the amount of power asked by a device). The relay takes care of the rest.

Whatever ACC circuit you tap was built by Mopar to carry a certain amount of power. The wiring size coming out of it and fuse are the result. If you power even a small draw device, you could be asking too much of the circuit. You can pop a fuse, throw a code, etc.

A relay gets its own fuse, wire and power direct from battery. It’s is grounded. It has one wire to your device. It’s has another to a switch (trigger). In your case, that “switch” is the ACC fuse tapped line. The relay uses that very low current (milliamps) to energize an electromagnetic switch. It now sends power from battery through the relay to your device.
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Old 08-04-2019, 09:14 PM
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You are running a fuse tap AND a relay. Relay is powered switch. It’s so you don’t run power to a switch inside your vehicle or overuse a small circuit by tapping too much power from it.

In your case, the ACC circuit is just sending a very small current to the trigger on relay (you only draw the amount of power asked by a device). The relay takes care of the rest.

Whatever ACC circuit you tap was built by Mopar to carry a certain amount of power. The wiring size coming out of it and fuse are the result. If you power even a small draw device, you could be asking too much of the circuit. You can pop a fuse, throw a code, etc.

A relay gets its own fuse, wire and power direct from battery. It’s is grounded. It has one wire to your device. It’s has another to a switch (trigger). In your case, that “switch” is the ACC fuse tapped line. The relay uses that very low current (milliamps) to energize an electromagnetic switch. It now sends power from battery through the relay to your device.
that's helpful. so where do I buy a relay and where do I plug it in my fuse box and how do I wire it all together?

the videos I posted make it seem simple to just run a fuse tap and get power. I'm gonna need a lot of clear direction to make this relay thing a go. Is there a set of written directions somewhere?

what do you think of this guy's write up?

http://www.offroaders.com/cheap-tric...-using-relays/
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Old 08-05-2019, 12:10 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by CoffeeAndJeeps View Post
that's helpful. so where do I buy a relay and where do I plug it in my fuse box and how do I wire it all together?

the videos I posted make it seem simple to just run a fuse tap and get power. I'm gonna need a lot of clear direction to make this relay thing a go. Is there a set of written directions somewhere?

what do you think of this guy's write up?

Wiring Tips: Using Relays | Offroaders.com
This dude is spot on. Relays at any Fry’s Electronics, auto store, even Walmart.
Referencing the picture below..ignore that on off switch and those headlamp looking things. The reason that you don’t need a switch, is because you’re asking your tapped wire to be the switch. (Technically your key on is the switch and the tapped wire is the “trigger”)

Green wire is your ACC switched fuse tap from fuse box (color can be whatever)
Red wire is the extra wire (color doesn’t matter) from halos
Black wire goes to either an existing body ground or battery negative
The yellow wire (I prefer red) goes to battery positive. Use a waterproof fuse holder like pictured below.

I also like relay sockets like pictures below. Negates the need to use quick connectors cause they’re bulky. You can use regular butt connectors and shrink tubing. I’d run the fused battery wire up front near the light, and stash the relay up front. Every other wire will be nice and short. Plenty of ground sport usually on backside of front grill holder. Anywhere you see a wire with a ring terminal bolted to metal. That’s a ground.

That’s about it. I used to be so confused by it all and now it’s so simple. Repetition and reading.
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:43 AM   #10
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Using a relay is certainly the safest bet, but a DRL LED halo probably doesn't pull much amperage, likely far less than the 10A or so that a direct fuse-tap can handle. Looking at random examples online, they mostly seem to be in the 2-3A range. Is there anything in the box that tells you the amp draw of the DRL?
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Old 08-05-2019, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mcguirev10 View Post
Using a relay is certainly the safest bet, but a DRL LED halo probably doesn't pull much amperage, likely far less than the 10A or so that a direct fuse-tap can handle. Looking at random examples online, they mostly seem to be in the 2-3A range. Is there anything in the box that tells you the amp draw of the DRL?
Item name:LED lamp for Jeep SUV
Operating Voltage:13.5V
Rate Current: 0.75A
Out power: 30W
Luminous flux: 1020LM
Waterproof: IP65
Light Source: CREE LED
Led quantity: CREE-XTE-5Pcs
Color Temperature: 6000K
Housing Material: Aluminum

please tell me I can just tap. the relay thing looks good but I gotta say that's way above my pay grade. maybe I will do that when I add my thermonuclear fusion reactor (better mpg in a jeep finally!) or decide to hook up my espresso machine for when I'm tailgating. right now I'd love to run some wires, tap it and be done with it.

looked it over again - and I don't want to switch on the DRLs so the relay to switch thing confuses me. where would I put the switch? let's just do a tap, what do you think?
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Old 08-05-2019, 03:18 PM   #12
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Get the tap, run your wire.

Electrical should be about a safe and clean install. Even for low draw accessories. All modern vehicles are designed with specific parameters. Adding a device to a circuit, can easily throw that circuit out of spec which then potentially throws a code. Take the time to learn, it’s ridiculously simple. It’s better to know and not need. Also, when I buy a used vehicle, proper wiring shows that care was taken.

Didn’t mean to scare you. Good luck.
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Old 08-06-2019, 01:01 AM   #13
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Run the two yellow wires together from each halo and crimp them with a connecter. Run another wire from the fuse tap on M7 on the fuse box with a 5 amp fuse. you will be fine and it is quite simple that way.
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