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Old 09-05-2014, 07:29 PM
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How to prevent brake lines rubbing...

So I just put my JK in the shop again for the second time. I posted this over on the general side, but I'd imagine the tech crew would want to hear about it.

My willys is brand new, has 2k miles on it.

Today I completely lost foot braking ability and the brake light came on. Even standing with both feet on the pedal, would not stop the vehicle. Luckily the hand brake still worked, and I was able to stop the vehicle with it.

After stopping I noticed a massive amount of brown fluid around the passenger rear of the vehicle. I looked up under and noticed that the wheel had rubbed a hole in the brake line and almost all of my fluid was on the pavement.

I drove it to the dealership with the handbrake and was able to drop it off. I'm sure they will simply replace the lines.


Has anyone else had this problem with a stock vehicle? Is their any way to prevent this from happening again without buying stainless lines?

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Old 09-05-2014, 08:54 PM   #2
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I can't even really see how that's possible if everything's completely stock I just looked at my JK granted it's lifted but I have the no idea how that brake hose could come anywhere near the tire?

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Old 09-05-2014, 09:50 PM
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Really?

Mine have a ton of slack in them.
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:54 PM   #4
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I'm going to the dealer in the morning to get my oil changed I'll take a look at a couple on the lot I just can't conceive how it could have done this unless the bolt came out of the bracket that holds it up on the frame.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:03 AM   #5
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My rear brake lines come close to the wheel too (about 1")...with plenty of slack to possibly touch the wheel. The brackets are connected. The slack is looped toward the rear of the Jeep behind the shocks. The hard lines angle toward the rear. Is this the correct configuration?
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Old 09-06-2014, 08:27 AM   #6
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There's a picture at the dealership not brand new but close I don't see how the brake line is touching the tire.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chargermop View Post
There's a picture at the dealership not brand new but close I don't see how the brake line is touching the tire.
...is it touching the shock?
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:30 PM   #8
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I've had a similar problem. What I found is if you loosen slightly the nut connecting the hard brake line to the flex line at the bracket you should be able to slightly twist the flex line so that it clears everything. Then re tighten the nut and you are done. Don't even need to bleed the line. You can get the flex line to almost any position that you need.
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Old 09-06-2014, 04:10 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by chargermop View Post
There's a picture at the dealership not brand new but close I don't see how the brake line is touching the tire.
Mine looks exactly like this.. plenty of clearance.
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Old 09-06-2014, 05:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mess0821 View Post
I've had a similar problem. What I found is if you loosen slightly the nut connecting the hard brake line to the flex line at the bracket you should be able to slightly twist the flex line so that it clears everything. Then re tighten the nut and you are done. Don't even need to bleed the line. You can get the flex line to almost any position that you need.
Same problem as OP following extended line install with same fix as above. I however would recommend bleeding the line afterward as I ended up with micro bubbles in mine.
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Old 09-06-2014, 05:59 PM
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There's a picture at the dealership not brand new but close I don't see how the brake line is touching the tire.
If that loop that winds away from the wheel somehow gets shifted the other way, the wheel will rub it. I think the pressure washer did it to mine.
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Old 09-07-2014, 06:30 AM   #12
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When I installed my RK 2.5" lift with extended lines I took the advise of others and fully articulated my front and rear axles without springs installed to check for clearance issues.

No matter how I positioned my rear lines every once in a while one of the rears would loop out toward the wheel or rub the shock body. I ended up wrapping the lines with spiral wrap the full length and loosely zip tying them to the shock body. This held up well during a 2,000 mile trip with a few hundred being off-road.

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