Ok every so often I can hear a squealing noise and it does get faster as I accelerate, so I suspect a wheel bearing is showing signs of possible failure, so I am going to look into getting those replaced asap, whats the best way to see if I have a Dana 44 vs the 35? I am assuming I have the 35 as this is a bone stock sport.
@Jim74656
Most JK / JKU Sports come with D30's up front and D44's in back.
If a wheel bearing is going bad you will have play in the wheel. Jack it up and see if there is play.
A speed related squealing noise could be a number of things, including worn brake pads. I would check that first, to be honest.
I do know I am coming due for a rear break pad change soon (need to get the time and parts to take the Jeep out of service) and the noise does sound like a metal plate rubbing against something metal in a rhythmic pattern to a degree....so I can agree on possibly the break pads and I am honestly inclined to believe that it is the break pads....would you feel that my assessment is correct?
I replaced the unit bearings on my TJ this summer. I had no indication that they were bad, but was replacing the ball joints, and the axle u-joints while in there. It made no sense to me to put 16 year old bearing with 130K miles on them back in, so I put new ones on.
If it is the small squealer on your brake pads, you would only hear the squealing when you applied the brakes and the squealer made contact with the rotor.
It's not difficult to do a visual inspection of the thickness of your pads.
The front brakes on a Jeep generally won't go nearly that far. The bias puts more pressure on the fronts. Of course the type of driving also affects the wear.
I have a 18 Hyundai with a squeaky wheel since new, 23000 miles later I couldn't find the source, no play in the bearing, heat shield isn't touching, its somehow related to brake caliper, but is not brake related, (noise wont disappear when brake applied).
Squealing noise isn't necessarily a failing bearing. IMO a failing bearing will quickly progress and noise will become more distinctive and uniform like a low hum accompanied with play.
Before this symptoms I wouldn't touch it.
No special tools. Probably need a big hammer, since you're in a rust prone area and the rotors can be tough to remove. Just don't open the bleeder valve and you won't get yourself into any trouble.
No special tools. Probably need a big hammer, since you're in a rust prone area and the rotors can be tough to remove. Just don't open the bleeder valve and you won't get yourself into any trouble. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmrB7byLqRs
ok cool, glad to know I will be ok with my 13 MM sockets and what not, at the moment (i know this is not a smart way to do it) i'm just doing the pads, I will get rotors later and do those at a later date....I just need the jeep working to get me to my job
I think it was the rear pads, as (so far) the issue seems resolved, I have not heard any squeels so far, time will tell...I did see one of the pads which was left on my bumper by accident and it was almost down to metal, so I am inclined to believe they were at the replacement point....so at this time I am considering the issue SOLVED!!
I'm a little late to the party here but when my wheel bearing hub assemblies went bad (a result of a gremlin death wobble) the bearings made an awful cyclic scratchy noise, mostly around turns. I would not described it as a high pitch squeal such as from a brake pad spring contacting the rotor..
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