Installing a leveling kit in your driveway - any words of wisdom? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Like Tree6Likes
  • 1 Post By Prages
  • 2 Post By Chris-NC
  • 1 Post By DougM55
  • 1 Post By MrClortho
  • 1 Post By kjeeper10
Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 09-10-2017, 05:53 PM
Thread Starter
  #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 259
Installing a leveling kit in your driveway - any words of wisdom?

There are a ton of videos on youtube.

I have 1 set of jack stands, going to raise the jeep up until the second highest possible setting on the jacks. The other two wheels will be raised beforehand on a set of solid wood ramps. Once I finish the front, I'll switch and do the same setup for the back.

I'm going to support the axle with a single floor jack. Going to lower it enough to remove the springs and then lift it again to align the bolts. Havent bought it yet, but probably a 3-ton floor jack from harbor freight.

1. Do you guys think I need 2 floor jacks for the axle?
2. Is it possible for the axle to fall off?
3. Where should I support the axle from if I'm only using 1 floor jack?
4. In the video above this guy does not unbolt the drive shaft. Is that necessary? He also did not remove the break line brackets. FYI - I have a 2008 JKU


Here are the jackstands I am using; the go up to 23.8 inches at the highest stetting.
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T42002-...k%2Bstand&th=1

omfgitsniko is offline   Quote
Old 09-10-2017, 07:17 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: WV
Posts: 2,240
I'd go ahead and remove the brake line brackets. You don't want to pull on the brake lines too much.

As for where to put the jack, the rear is easy because the pumpkin is centered. You can jack it up from the pumpkin.

The front isn't so easy. The pumpkin isn't centered, so you end up getting only one side off the ground.

I didn't unbolt the drive shaft.

You need pretty tall jack stands since there's a good bit of droop even on the stock suspension. I used 6 ton jack stands from Harbor Freight placed just behind the front lower control arm frame mounts. Just had enough room to get the stock springs out and get the 2 1/2" lift springs in.

A second set of hands definitely helps. I found the rear to be easier than the front.

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
omfgitsniko likes this.

Prages is offline   Quote
Old 09-10-2017, 07:21 PM
Thread Starter
  #3
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prages View Post
I'd go ahead and remove the brake line brackets. You don't want to pull on the brake lines too much.

As for where to put the jack, the rear is easy because the pumpkin is centered. You can jack it up from the pumpkin.

The front isn't so easy. The pumpkin isn't centered, so you end up getting only one side off the ground.

I didn't unbolt the drive shaft.

You need pretty tall jack stands since there's a good bit of droop even on the stock suspension. I used 6 ton jack stands from Harbor Freight placed just behind the front lower control arm frame mounts. Just had enough room to get the stock springs out and get the 2 1/2" lift springs in.

A second set of hands definitely helps. I found the rear to be easier than the front.

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk


I'll start w the rear to get practice out of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
omfgitsniko is offline   Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-10-2017, 08:07 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: WV
Posts: 2,240
Quote:
Originally Posted by omfgitsniko View Post
I'll start w the rear to get practice out of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A week after I did the spring lift, I added 1/2" spacers in the rear to counter the weight of my rear bumper/ tire carrier.

Got the rear spacers done in about an hour.

The hardest part with them was getting them seated into the upper mounts. Everything else was easy. I think the fronts just slip over the spring mount.

Regardless, the point is that you need to get it high enough to get the old springs out and then get them back in with the spacers in place.

It's not a terribly hard job. Just expect something to take 3 times as long as it should. That's just the way it goes.

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
Prages is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 05:50 AM   #5
Jeeper
 
Chris-NC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 109
This is the easiest way to to do it right here. Instead of lifting the vehicle and dropping the axle, you just set the axle on jack stands and lift each corner of the vehicle one at a time. I've used this method several times and it works great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp13geAKjd8

Good luck.
MNIKKILA and brimstone_ like this.
Chris-NC is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 10:57 AM   #6
Jeeper
 
DougM55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 339
A ratchet strap can help pull the rear track bar over enough to get the bolts in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
omfgitsniko likes this.
DougM55 is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 10:59 AM
Thread Starter
  #7
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 259
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougM55 View Post
A ratchet strap can help pull the rear track bar over enough to get the bolts in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've heard about this. Gonna have a couple of straps on hand for both the front and rear, where needed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
omfgitsniko is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 12:28 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
brandofamily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: 60 miles south of Chicago
Posts: 2,962
Make sure to disconnect the emergency brake cables at the hub in the rear so you can get enough droop.
__________________
2015 Wrangler Unlimited (Tank)
Rubicon Shocks w/ 19/60 springs, 2.5" Teraflex BB lift w/ Superlift frt & rr adj track bars & Rancho CA bracket, NR 4x4 9/16" bolt kit
315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs on Willys rims w/ 1.5" wheel spacers & 4.56 gears w/ rear TruTrac, Teraflex BRK frt & rr
brandofamily is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 01:31 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 314
Quote:
Originally Posted by omfgitsniko View Post
There are a ton of videos on youtube.

I have 1 set of jack stands, going to raise the jeep up until the second highest possible setting on the jacks. The other two wheels will be raised beforehand on a set of solid wood ramps. Once I finish the front, I'll switch and do the same setup for the back.

I'm going to support the axle with a single floor jack. Going to lower it enough to remove the springs and then lift it again to align the bolts. Havent bought it yet, but probably a 3-ton floor jack from harbor freight.

1. Do you guys think I need 2 floor jacks for the axle?
2. Is it possible for the axle to fall off?
3. Where should I support the axle from if I'm only using 1 floor jack?
4. In the video above this guy does not unbolt the drive shaft. Is that necessary? He also did not remove the break line brackets. FYI - I have a 2008 JKU


Here are the jackstands I am using; the go up to 23.8 inches at the highest stetting.
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T42002-...k%2Bstand&th=1
1. It wouldn't hurt but isn't a deal killer. Get a 5 ton jack...just makes life much easier.
2. I doubt you will be disconnecting all of the control arms for a leveling kit and the drive shafts so highly unlikely.
3. Rear - on the pumpkin, Front - just to the side of the pumking where it seems to be somewhat balanced but I usually work on one side at a time and support the other side with a jack stand anyway so not critical.
4. No need to remove driveshaft for this small of a lift. I would, however, disconnect the brake line brackets so you aren't tugging on them an not realizing it.

I used two 2x12" under my jack stands to get the Jeep up high enough. Trust me, you want to get it higher off the ground than you think, and then a little higher still.

You need a 19MM box end wrench. Many of the wrench kits skip that size so double check.

When you remove your sway bar connects, be careful because if you just hit the top, outside nut with an impact gun, it can spin the whole assembly inside the boot and splat, ruined...hahaha, speaking from experience.

A couple of days ahead of time, hit all the bolts with PB blaster about twice a day. Yours is old enough now that it could be stubborn. Be careful because that stuff smells like death so do it outside instead of a closed garage.
omfgitsniko likes this.
__________________
'17 JKU, Rancho lift, 33" KO2's, winch, sliders, armor, more stuff...
'14 WK2, AWD
'97 ZJ, OME lift, 31" KO2's, exhaust, more stuff...

Past: 79 CJ V8: Resto, 98 XJ: Lifted & Locked, 04 KJ: Lifted and 31's, 12 JKU: lift, armor, more stuff...
MrClortho is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 02:11 PM   #10
Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
::WF Moderator::
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Clear Spring, Md
Posts: 4,556
I found that the 18mm wrench was the odd ball size for me. I have plenty of 19's but I only had one set that included an 18. Now I have a few 18's.
GuzziMoto is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 02:38 PM
Thread Starter
  #11
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 259
if I went with the one-wheel-at-a-time method (raising frame instead of drooping axle), can I use the OEM scissor jack to get the axle nice and low?

if it can support an entire jeep there's no way it wont support the axle.

for one-wheel-at-a-time-method ONLY.
omfgitsniko is offline   Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 02:57 PM   #12
Jeeper
 
MNIKKILA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 160
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-NC View Post
This is the easiest way to to do it right here. Instead of lifting the vehicle and dropping the axle, you just set the axle on jack stands and lift each corner of the vehicle one at a time. I've used this method several times and it works great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp13geAKjd8

Good luck.
This is what I did. Also I second the remove the brake line bracket it will give you more room to work just make sure you reassemble it.

Watch a few videos there are several. Good luck.
__________________
2015 - Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, Terraflex Leveling Kit, Barricade F&R Bumpers, Rubi Stock Wheels, Auxbeam Dual Windshield Lamps, LED Bumper Bar, Grabbars, Weathertech & Off Road Heroes Fastback Soft Top. No Chrome. Anywhere. Ever.
Chicago, IL
MNIKKILA is offline   Quote
Old 09-12-2017, 01:51 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: WV
Posts: 2,240
16mm was my odd ball size. I don't think that's needed for a lift, but I think it is for caliper brackets.

I now have both short and deep well 1/2" and 3/8" sockets.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
Prages is offline   Quote
Old 09-13-2017, 11:16 AM   #14
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South East BC
Posts: 1,481
I don't recommend jack stands as your only support. Get some 6x6 wood blocks and create a safety space of at least 12 inches. I've been to two 'driveway deaths' where jack stands shifted and kids watched their dad die... not fun. If your driveway is asphalt, you increase the chance of this happening 1000000%. Stands, floor jacks, whatever... will sink into asphalt under pressure. I've seen a motor lift collapse as one side started to sink, it put a bit of twist in the frame, and down she went...
BeyondYourFrontDoor is offline   Quote
Old 09-13-2017, 02:26 PM   #15
Newb
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 14
Make sure you use a torque wrench on the track bar bolt. I didn't, relying on the impact gun only, and it loosened up after a few miles without me knowing. Once it was loose, it allowed the bolt to beat the piss out of the mounting hole and caused it to be wallowed out and terrible steering slop. Ended up having to weld a Teraflex track bar brace to the mount to tighten everything back up. I think the torque value is something like 180 lb ft. Pretty high.
Jared1946 is offline   Quote
Old 09-13-2017, 02:27 PM
Thread Starter
  #16
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared1946 View Post
Make sure you use a torque wrench on the track bar bolt. I didn't, relying on the impact gun only, and it loosened up after a few miles without me knowing. Once it was loose, it allowed the bolt to beat the piss out of the mounting hole and caused it to be wallowed out and terrible steering slop. Ended up having to weld a Teraflex track bar brace to the mount to tighten everything back up. I think the torque value is something like 180 lb ft. Pretty high.


170 I think. I heard it's the hardest part


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
omfgitsniko is offline   Quote
Old 09-13-2017, 06:45 PM   #17
WF Moderator

WF Lifetime Member
WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 53,757
125 on all CA's but front uppers. 125 both TB's.

Make sure ALL these bolts are loosened before the lift and torqued with jeep back on the ground.

I like to do one corner at a time. disco the sway links, shocks, 1 jack stand in front of CA mount. Jack the vehicle up as high as possible first. Then remove tire and slowly drop axle.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
omfgitsniko likes this.

kjeeper10 is offline   Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, Gladiator, Mopar and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to FCA US LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with FCA US LLC.