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Old 02-20-2016, 06:51 AM
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Installing Amp

Hello everyone, now I got my Polk speakers in my 2016 JK Willy`s
has anyone installed a Alpine KTP-445U the little 45 watt amp. Looking
for a colored wiring diagram I`m going to use the 430Z stock head unit.
Hate to cut into wires but I`m good with splicing and using heat shrink.
I need to know what wires go to the top tweeters on the dash.
Am I going to loose them or will they still work with the head unit.

Also I should disc. the stock tweeters in the roll bar and dash right.
Not big on component factory systems. Just want to do it right not
hack it all up. Any advise???
Thanks!!!
Al

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Old 02-20-2016, 11:15 AM   #2
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I replaced my factory speakers with JL Audio coaxials. The tweeter on them is far superior to the factory tweeters. I assume your Polks are the same. I simply installed an amp and did not bother to connect the factory tweeters. Doing so would result in poor sound. Having the lower quality factory tweeters playing with the Polk tweeters will result in harsh highs that will be too bright IMHO.

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Old 02-21-2016, 03:36 AM   #3
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Just a thought...

It may be best to run new wires if you can, assuming you're able to snake new ones to those locations. You'll be running wires from the amp to the speakers right? Or did you plan to run new wires from the amp and tie into the factory wiring to drive the speakers? If possible, I'd rather not have a splice from the amp to the speakers. I'm assuming what you bought is not a component set, so there are no cross overs?

I think I saw a video or some pix posted here or on YouTube showing removal of the dash tweeters. If it is as easy as it looked in the video or pix, I'd pull it to see the wire colors, and put it back once they've been found.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:44 AM
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Thinking about running new wires but rather not. Just not sure the best way to do
this with keeping the head unit.
Thanks everyone for your help.
Al
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:40 AM   #5
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If you're retaining the factory radio, and installing externally amplified speakers, You will need to run new wires to the new speakers from the new amp.

You will also need to splice into the factory speaker wires to provide signal to the amp. Ensure the amp has built in Speaker level inputs, or you are using a Line Output converter to do this.

Splicing signal out from the radio, then from the amp back into the factory harness will cause a feedback loop that will fry everything. (unless you CUT the factory harness between the point where it goes out and back in.

Running wires is really simple, especially in a jeep. The toughest part would be snaking them into and through the Sound bar itself.

Do not run the Signal wires next to the power or ground wires for the amp. (may cause interference)
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:08 AM   #6
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Here's a really basic diagram of how to wire the front speakers assuming the amp will be under the passenger seat.

Note that Signal, and speaker wires are Pairs, not a single wire as indicated... because i'm lazy, and microsoft paint sucks. Also i labeled the left and right backwards in the image... whoops.

Power, through the firewall and directly to the battery with a Fuse, runs under the carpet in the corner of the tub.
Ground, clean paint away from Seat bolt and attach. Apply Dielectric grease.
Signal, down and through the center console.
Speakers through the center console, up under the dash, and over to the speaker pods.

Tweeters - leave them be. They will still get power from the radio.



Now As for the What wire do I tap for the signal question... i followed a guide i found and it ended up having reversed polarity. So what i recommend is just going down to wal-mart, picking up an adapter for after-market radios, using its instructions to tell you which wire is which, then returning it to wal-mart.
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:28 PM
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Thanks,
That makes a lot of sense I will probably run all new wires.
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:40 PM   #8
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I'm not sure why you would need to run new speaker wires to the speakers unless you are planning on significantly increasing the power level to several hundred watts per channel?

The stock wiring should be fine to support 45-100 watts to each channel.

The wires on the back of the radio that you would need to cut on the gray HU connector:

Left Front: Gray/Yellow pins 21-22
Right Front: Dark Green/Yellow pins 19-20
Left Rear: Gray/Dark Green pins 8-9
Right Rear: Dark Green/Gray pins 10-11
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:02 PM   #9
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Because running new wire is super easy, and cutting the factory harness makes it a mess trying to put the old one back in when you go to sell it.

Plus you would have to run new wire from the discrete amp back to the harness anyway which makes it silly.

If he's just using an aftermarket Hu that's no problem. But in this case he is retaining the 430n, and adding an amp to power the new speakers.

Also, you didn't include polarity on those wire colors, which is pretty important.
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tribble View Post
Because running new wire is super easy, and cutting the factory harness makes it a mess trying to put the old one back in when you go to sell it.
A couple of pigtails takes care of that without having to cut any of the factory wiring. Personally, I don't think anyone is going to look behind my dash when I trade in but if I wanted to undo what I did it's just a few splices and if I used the pigtails then I can remove everything I added and just plug the stock connectors back into the stock HU.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:04 PM   #11
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Get the wiring harness from PAC and hack that. No need to run new speaker wires.
Or can really hack up the PAC like I did and ad an audio control LC2i.

The PAC harness is $35 and almost plug and play with that amp.
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Old 02-22-2016, 06:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Austintatious View Post
A couple of pigtails takes care of that without having to cut any of the factory wiring. Personally, I don't think anyone is going to look behind my dash when I trade in but if I wanted to undo what I did it's just a few splices and if I used the pigtails then I can remove everything I added and just plug the stock connectors back into the stock HU.
But he would still need to run wires from the amp back up into the dash anyway... then cut the harness and wire the new wires into the harness... It makes no sense to do that.

Your cutting up the stock harness, and causing him more work in the process.

Quit confusing the poor guy with bad advice.

O.P. Just tap the harness for signal, and run new wire to the new speakers in the pods.

Pm me if you need help lol.
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:22 PM   #13
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But he would still need to run wires from the amp back up into the dash anyway... then cut the harness and wire the new wires into the harness... It makes no sense to do that.

Your cutting up the stock harness, and causing him more work in the process.

Quit confusing the poor guy with bad advice.

O.P. Just tap the harness for signal, and run new wire to the new speakers in the pods.

Pm me if you need help lol.
It's not bad advice at all - it's just different than yours.

You're also assuming that he's going to put the amp under the passenger seat. That's not at all what I'm getting from his post about the "little amp" that can most likely fit behind the dash and wouldn't require a long run of wires from the HU and back to the speaker connector.

Fitting the amp behind the dash area using the PAC pigtails doesn't require cutting up the factory wires at all! PAC plugs into head unit, speaker out to the amp while the rest of the wires splice into the other PAC pigtail. Then speaker out from the amp to the other PAC pigtail to the speakers.

Simple as that. No cutting of the factory wires, no long runs of speaker wires from the HU to the amp or having to run new wires from the amp to the speakers.

Unless you want to mount a little bitty amp under the passenger seat instead of behind the dash, and then run new wires to the speakers in the dash AND the sound bar. You still have to get the speaker output from the STOCK head unit in the dash to that amp, not sure how you are going to do that without cutting into the existing speaker out wires.

Which method sounds like more work?
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Austintatious View Post
It's not bad advice at all - it's just different than yours.

You're also assuming that he's going to put the amp under the passenger seat. That's not at all what I'm getting from his post about the "little amp" that can most likely fit behind the dash and wouldn't require a long run of wires from the HU and back to the speaker connector.

Fitting the amp behind the dash area using the PAC pigtails doesn't require cutting up the factory wires at all! PAC plugs into head unit, speaker out to the amp while the rest of the wires splice into the other PAC pigtail. Then speaker out from the amp to the other PAC pigtail to the speakers.

Simple as that. No cutting of the factory wires, no long runs of speaker wires from the HU to the amp or having to run new wires from the amp to the speakers.

Unless you want to mount a little bitty amp under the passenger seat instead of behind the dash, and then run new wires to the speakers in the dash AND the sound bar. You still have to get the speaker output from the STOCK head unit in the dash to that amp, not sure how you are going to do that without cutting into the existing speaker out wires.

Which method sounds like more work?
Little blue wire taps on the harness, and a tiny hole filled in with Hot glue in the pods, nothing special. Granted i'm not a huge fan of wire taps, but they do work if used right.

The underseat method is great, plenty of room and good ventilation. there are even pre-fabbed mounting plates available, and leaves him room to add-on later.

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