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Old 08-08-2017, 10:54 PM
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Jeep Wrangler, towing four on groumd, necessary to disconnect negative cable"

is it necessary to disconnect the negative battery cable, when being towed behind a rv, i have a trickle charge going into jeep when being towed. any ubfo would be appreciated,

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Old 08-08-2017, 11:36 PM   #2
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When flat towing my 2009 jk I do not disconnect the negative battery cable. Simply put transfer case in neutral, manual transmission in 6th.. Hookup electrical trailer cable from truck to jeep...I installed brake/turn signal bulbs in rear tailights; is not connected to the jeep's electrical system and when I hit the brakes in truck the installed bulbs light (powered from truck), etc. Steering is not locked and therefore no key in ignition.

I use the ReadyBrake system for Jeep assisted braking.

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Old 08-09-2017, 07:08 AM   #3
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You don't mention the year of your Jeep. I just got a 2017 and about have it ready to flat tow behind my motorhome. In my research I have found that late model Wranglers do not have a steering wheel lock so you can pull the key out thus not drawing any power. In my case I will be running the Blue Ox Patriot braking system so it will plug into the 12 volt plug in the center arm rest.

I do this with my Honda CR-V today and I do stop and run the car after about 4 hours of towing to put a little more charge in the battery. I also charge the brake controller the night before so it won't need much power from the car battery.
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Old 08-11-2017, 06:37 AM   #4
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I am getting a 2010 sport w/ auto trans to tow behind my RV. Any advice on towbars, baseplates or brake systems would be appreciated
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:06 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by dagodsey View Post
I am getting a 2010 sport w/ auto trans to tow behind my RV. Any advice on towbars, baseplates or brake systems would be appreciated
I use a Blue Ox tow bar with their Patriot brake controller. If you look around, you can find braking systems that are cable activated that don't require an expensive brake controller.

I have a bumper from Rock Hard 4x4 that accepts tow bar brackets from 3 different tow bar companies. I really like it as it serves dual purpose, a nice bumper where I can mount a winch and for towing. Otherwise you can get the base plate for your tow system which mounts under the bumper, looks ugly, reduces your ground clearance and only serves one purpose IMHO.
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Old 08-11-2017, 08:38 PM   #6
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I use a blue ox base plate and a ready brute tow bar with built in surge brake. Just towed the Jeep over 5000 miles without issue. Here are pics of the tow plate and the,Jeep ready to tow. I also installed the Mopar tow harness and it worked perfect as well
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Old 08-12-2017, 02:14 AM   #7
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Disconnect the battery. It is a D O T requirement.
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Old 08-12-2017, 03:46 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by tkb View Post
is it necessary to disconnect the negative battery cable, when being towed behind a rv, i have a trickle charge going into jeep when being towed. any ubfo would be appreciated,
Always consult your Jeeps owners manual, some years have different requirements. Here is a good thread that talks about towing behind a motorhome.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/f19/tow...me-133960.html

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Disconnect the battery. It is a D O T requirement.
I'm not sure where you got that from, but I've never seen any such DOT requirement for any dinghy/toad vehicle. Some vehicles have you disocnnect but it's not a DOT requirement it's manufacturer requirement.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:03 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by dbertheau View Post
When flat towing my 2009 jk I do not disconnect the negative battery cable. Simply put transfer case in neutral, manual transmission in 6th.. Hookup electrical trailer cable from truck to jeep...I installed brake/turn signal bulbs in rear tailights; is not connected to the jeep's electrical system and when I hit the brakes in truck the installed bulbs light (powered from truck), etc. Steering is not locked and therefore no key in ignition.

I use the ReadyBrake system for Jeep assisted braking.
simply asking because I don't know ; curious, why would you have a manual Jeep that is being towed with transfer case in Neutral ( I get that ) and the manual transmission in 6th gear as opposed to also in Neutral ? Although it's a very short gear , you're towing it with the gear engaged ? Thanks for explaining this .
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:46 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by j3ph3ry_j33p View Post
simply asking because I don't know ; curious, why would you have a manual Jeep that is being towed with transfer case in Neutral ( I get that ) and the manual transmission in 6th gear as opposed to also in Neutral ? Although it's a very short gear , you're towing it with the gear engaged ? Thanks for explaining this .
By having the transmission in gear if a manual transmission, or park with an automatic, parasitic rotation and possible lack of transmission lubrication is eliminated.
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:52 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Off Pavement View Post
By having the transmission in gear if a manual transmission, or park with an automatic, parasitic rotation and possible lack of transmission lubrication is eliminated.


Really?!
Well, even 25-30 years of Jeep ownership and we can still be taught something new. That is highly interesting . I've only trailer queened my Jeeps ...honestly only my off-road JKU ...I have recently been initial shopping for a pickup truck capable of flat towing it as you guys are speaking about so this is a viable interest to me. Thanks. I never would imagine it could be good to have auto tranny in park while it was moving but if both driveshafts are neutralized by the xfer case it makes sense it won't affect the transmission ...pretty cool. Thanks for schooling me - that ain't easy to do re Jeeps- today ,guys!


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Old 08-13-2017, 07:50 AM   #12
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Thanks fo all the good info. I will post how it looks and does when I get it all done.
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Old 08-18-2017, 09:37 AM   #13
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Got a link to that bumper you have? Sounds exactly like what I am looking for.
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Old 08-18-2017, 09:39 AM   #14
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I have a bumper from Rock Hard 4x4 that accepts tow bar brackets from 3 different tow bar companies.
Have a link to this bumper? Sounds awesome.
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Old 08-18-2017, 11:22 AM   #15
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Have a link to this bumper? Sounds awesome.
They have several bumpers that I believe will all work with the tow brackets as the bumper bolts through the tow bracket, through the bumper and to the frame. The link below is the one I got. They have the same bumper w/o the center hitch point and shorty bumpers as well. They even have aluminum bumpers.

It is very easy to put on and they even have their own video instructions. Plus you can find a couple more on YouTube. I didn't want the Blue Ox base plate as it hangs under the bumper and only serves one purpose, to hook to the Blue Ox towbar. The bumper looks great, can hold a winch (which I will get later), has a front hitch mount (though light duty only), has off road light mounting points and D-ring mounts.

I should mention, they make 3 different tow bar brackets for the different tow bar mfgs.

Jeep Wrangler JK Front Receiver Bumper
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:35 AM
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thanks for all replys, talked to dealership, they agreed it is not necessary to disconnect neg cable to battery. Am on a trip as this time and have not been disconnecting neg cable, so far everything is fine....wrangler is a 2017 and handles well. also i have a invisi brake system by roadmaster.
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Old 08-20-2017, 08:16 AM   #17
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I am scheduled to have Roadmaster baseplate, towbar & Invisibrake installed on my 2010 Sport Auto trans next week. The manual does say disconnect & installer is quoting that so plan is to put in disconnect switch. I guess even if not truly needed it will serve as a hidden kill switch.
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Old 08-20-2017, 11:25 AM   #18
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Disconnect the battery. It is a D O T requirement.
I have never read that before..
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Old 08-21-2017, 12:54 AM   #19
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Disconnect the battery. It is a D O T requirement.

May I ask, where in the world did you read that?
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Old 08-23-2017, 05:58 PM   #20
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Take a good look at the Ready Brute Elite setup. It uses a surge brake arrangement. we installed this on our MH and towed the Jeep across 6 states on a 3 week vacation. Worked great, never had a problem. We have a 2008 Wrangler that came with a Blue Ox Baseplate and already had wiring and battery disconnect installed. This setup is a lot less, coastwise, than Blue Ox, Roadmaster, Brake Buddy and Invisibrake, but works just as well. Will probably set you back about half of what other units cost plus has a lifetime warranty, made in USA..
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Old 08-25-2017, 08:12 PM   #21
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As my name is toy puller I pull a 2012. I ran extra lights to the rear so they will work with my RV brake lights. The Patriot brake system I use will compress the brake pedal which in turns cause the Jeep brake lights to come on also. The brake system uses power from plug inside the console so if you disconnect the negative the braking system could lose power and not work. Put transfer case in neutral, shifter in in park or if you have manual (in any gear) take key with you (this reminds me that I did put gear in park) you can't take key out unless you are in park. I use Blue ox tow bar, base plate and braking system. When from NC to NY to Mt to Az back to NC. No problem.
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Old 09-16-2017, 12:14 PM   #22
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I'm looking to setup my JKU for being towed. I have a few questions and would appreciate your input. I apologize in advance to the OP for broadening the scope of the thread.

So far, I see the electric brake pedal pusher and the cable operated brake pedal puller. Any other systems on the market? I do like the idea of a system that does not care what vehicle you pull with. The Ready Brake seems to be pretty self-contained and non-dependent on the tow vehicle.

I see that an issue has been raised about the toad battery being drained by the brake lights. Does anyone really worry about this for normal trips? I would think the toad battery could handle it without any issues. Too bad the turn signals don't work as well. I see the reason for running a separate light setup.

I have an off-road bumper on the front that has D-ring attach points. I'm assuming I can use these to attach a tow bar with some sort of adapter. If they are tough enough for a winch or strap recovery, they should hold up to towing. (I installed the bumper and can attest that all hardware is grade 8.)

Anyone have experience/issues towing a lifted JKU? I assume that a level hitch setup is just as important as a level trailer setup.

JKU: 2015 JKUR with 3" lift, 33" tires (will eventually be 35"), Auto transmission.

Thanks!!!!!!!
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Old 09-16-2017, 01:38 PM   #23
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I'm looking to setup my JKU for being towed. I have a few questions and would appreciate your input. I apologize in advance to the OP for broadening the scope of the thread.

So far, I see the electric brake pedal pusher and the cable operated brake pedal puller. Any other systems on the market? I do like the idea of a system that does not care what vehicle you pull with. The Ready Brake seems to be pretty self-contained and non-dependent on the tow vehicle.

I see that an issue has been raised about the toad battery being drained by the brake lights. Does anyone really worry about this for normal trips? I would think the toad battery could handle it without any issues. Too bad the turn signals don't work as well. I see the reason for running a separate light setup.

I have an off-road bumper on the front that has D-ring attach points. I'm assuming I can use these to attach a tow bar with some sort of adapter. If they are tough enough for a winch or strap recovery, they should hold up to towing. (I installed the bumper and can attest that all hardware is grade 8.)

Anyone have experience/issues towing a lifted JKU? I assume that a level hitch setup is just as important as a level trailer setup.

JKU: 2015 JKUR with 3" lift, 33" tires (will eventually be 35"), Auto transmission.

Thanks!!!!!!!
JK-Duff,
Well, let begin by saying we've owned, built and towed, 9 different Jeeps in about 35-38 year period. So, yeah, we've got a bit of experience in setting up Jeeps for all kinds of purposes, including towing. We have used two different types of "toad" braking in our adventures. The "Toad" being what you tow, behind your motor home. Our first setup that was used in some of the Jeeps we towed and, in our '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4 was the READY BRAKE system.

It's the older brother of the READY BRUTE system. The Ready Brute, is a complete tow bar, with INTEGRATED actuation of the cable brake system for the toad. If you're thinking of the cable actuated system, this is the way to go. The Read Brake, is the same system only, it's independent of the tow bar. It simply resides in the receiver of the tow vehicle (motor home/truck etc.) Then whatever tow bar you choose, fits into the back of the Ready Brake actuator. There are two kinds of Ready Brake actuators.

1. The one that uses a TRAILER BALL
2. One that doesn't

If you choose the one that uses a trailer ball, the tow bar you use, will have to be equipped with a regular trailer ball coupling. The other version, uses the types of tow bar that you just insert into a receiver and, they have a U-joint for a coupling and, those kind disconnect from the toad and stay on the tow vehicle. Either one of those will be able to be transferred to other vehicles to used in towing your Jeep.

The same can be said for the Ready Brute system. Since it's an integrated system that incorporates the actuator, it too can be used on any tow vehicle. The cable actuated systems, are good, economical systems for satisfying the legal requirements for towed vehicles. I could go on about them and, how to install them with modifications that make the install and actual use of them superior to the instructions you get with them.

Now, as for the ROBOTs or, electric brake actuators, I wouldn't have one of those if you paid me. The primary reasons are:

1. You have to install it, in the Jeep, each and every time you hook up for towing. Then you have to set them up, make any adjustments and hopefully they work. On many RV forums, those electronic versions often have issues.

2. When you arrive at your camp spot/destination/RV park, whatever, you now have to disconnect all of what's connected, pick that heavy unit up, and find a place to store it. NOT ME!

Depending on what kind of motor home one has, as in a "DP" or otherwise known as a Diesel pusher, there is another braking system that is superior to any other on the planet. And that one is called the "M & G Braking system". It is simply inserted between the power brake unit and the master cylinder. It is a one time installation and, not to be messed with again. All that's in between the motor home and the Jeep, is small, curly-Que air line, that's used for actuation of the Jeeps brakes. It's also proportional. In that, the harder you step on the brakes of the motor home, the harder the brakes are applied in the Jeep.

The really, REALLY good part, there's ABSOLUTELY NOTHING inside the Jeep. But, it's primarily for motorhomes with air brakes, as in Diesel coaches. So, there's that one too.


Now, as for your inquiry to the Jeeps battery running down because of the use of brake lights. That always get's me laughing on the floor rolling around. Are they kidding? The application of two, small brake lights, completely running down a battery, REALLY? No, it's not going to happen unless you apply the brakes, and the brake lights come on and, the engine of the coach or the Jeep is not running, and you go away for 3 days. That's the only way you could run down a battery with brake lights.

We have towed for literally thousands and thousands of miles and NEVER had any of our Jeeps have a dead battery, at the end of a days towing, EVER! People sometimes OVER THINK things so badly it's unbelieveable.

Too bad the turn signals don't work as well. I see the reason for running a separate light...

This is another section of towing that folks get paranoid and fret over. On RV forums, there's endless tales of ways to get TOAD lights working. And many of them are, as usual, OVER THOUGHT. For your Jeep, which is the same exact year as our present one and number 9 for us, there is a phenomenally easy way to set things up. I will link the connection for purchase below. It's the "Hopkins" tow harness assembly. It doesn't get any simpler than that. It's a "Plug and Play" system. You simply remove the left rear tail light, un-plug the plug to it, insert this system, and replug the plugs back in, no over thinking there. And, you do the same on the right side, again, no over thinking there. Then you run the four wires, inside the frame (which is a piece of cake) all the way to the front of the Jeep and, create your plug for your motor home pig tail to plug into, DONE!

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-56200...=Hopkins+56200

I hope I've not bored you with all this long stuff about towing Jeeps. Been there, done that for decades so, if you have any questions on setting up your '15 JK, let me know, I'd be glad to assist. And, I've done a bit to that JKUR that you may be interested in. How about a back up camera and monitor for a whopping $34.00
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Old 09-17-2017, 01:50 AM   #24
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JK-Duff,
<snip>
I hope I've not bored you with all this long stuff about towing Jeeps. Been there, done that for decades so, if you have any questions on setting up your '15 JK, let me know, I'd be glad to assist. And, I've done a bit to that JKUR that you may be interested in. How about a back up camera and monitor for a whopping $34.00
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Scott,

Your experience and insight is EXACTLY what I was hoping for.

From my research, the Ready Brute looks like the easy way to go. I also like the integrated receiver bar... no ball to mess with.

I'm certainly interested in the module that works from the RV air brakes. We don't have our RV yet, but we're looking hard at Super-Cs and that would work perfectly. Yes, the cart may be getting in front of the horse a bit, but I had other reasons for getting the setup done early. At the very least, you have given me something to think about regarding current vs future needs and what route to go with braking.

Finally, the wiring harness sounds perfect. I'll go check it out and bookmark it for sure. Having been in both tailight areas a few times already, I know how nice it is to just plug things in. The wires to the front would be a snap.

Thanks again for all the info!!!
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Old 09-17-2017, 07:27 AM   #25
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Here is a video on installing the Hopkins wiring harness. I followed this and it works great.

https://youtu.be/TV61o32Ixmk
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Old 09-17-2017, 11:30 AM   #26
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Here is a video on installing the Hopkins wiring harness. I followed this and it works great.

https://youtu.be/TV61o32Ixmk
Thank you sir!
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Old 09-17-2017, 01:03 PM   #27
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Duff,
On the wiring thing, here's a tid-bit that might interest you. I'm kind of a tinkerer, or, maybe just think outside of the box more than most. If and when you purchase that Hopkins wiring harness, I followed "most" of the instructions to the letter. But, when it comes to wiring the right side tail light, I veered from them in a tiny way. They want you to run the plug across from the left side and, then tear out, much of the foam insulation, just to get that large plug, up into the area behind the right tail light, so you can plug it in.

Well, I figured why destroy that nice job of sealing that entire area that the factory did when, all I have to do is, cut the wires to the new plug. Then, poke a very small hole through the foam insulation and, run the two wires through that tiny hole. Once the wires are up and through the hole, then simply re-attach them to the harness again, using solder and shrink tubing. DONE!

That way, you still have a good seal. And, when the wires are ran through the hole, just a tad bit of Silicone dabbed in all around the entry point, will seal up that wire entry point. Soldering is very easy to me. So, things like this are fun, at least to me anyways.
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Old 09-17-2017, 02:08 PM   #28
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Mopar 2211156AB Wiring Harness on a 2017 Wrangler

I am attempting to install a Mopar Wiring 2211156AB on a Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited 2017. I am confused about where to plug the harness in. Some say cut a hole in the fire wall and plug into one of the plugs under the right side under dash. Others say there is a plug under the dash on a 2017. Does anyone know for sure? Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-17-2017, 02:58 PM   #29
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I am attempting to install a Mopar Wiring 2211156AB on a Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited 2017. I am confused about where to plug the harness in. Some say cut a hole in the fire wall and plug into one of the plugs under the right side under dash. Others say there is a plug under the dash on a 2017. Does anyone know for sure? Thanks for the help.
I meant to say under the hood. 2 possible plugs, one under the passenger side dash and one under the hood. Help?
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Old 09-17-2017, 06:36 PM   #30
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Duff,
On the wiring thing, here's a tid-bit that might interest you. I'm kind of a tinkerer, or, maybe just think outside of the box more than most. If and when you purchase that Hopkins wiring harness, I followed "most" of the instructions to the letter. But, when it comes to wiring the right side tail light, I veered from them in a tiny way. They want you to run the plug across from the left side and, then tear out, much of the foam insulation, just to get that large plug, up into the area behind the right tail light, so you can plug it in.

Well, I figured why destroy that nice job of sealing that entire area that the factory did when, all I have to do is, cut the wires to the new plug. Then, poke a very small hole through the foam insulation and, run the two wires through that tiny hole. Once the wires are up and through the hole, then simply re-attach them to the harness again, using solder and shrink tubing. DONE!

That way, you still have a good seal. And, when the wires are ran through the hole, just a tad bit of Silicone dabbed in all around the entry point, will seal up that wire entry point. Soldering is very easy to me. So, things like this are fun, at least to me anyways.
Scott
I've run several things into that space as it is and I would be the first to cut-n-splice to save making a large hole. Good advice for sure.

Those areas allow some great access and getting wires from inside to outside is pretty easy back there. I even mounted my trailer connector in the default license plate hole because the access was so good with the taillight out.

Again, I appreciate the advice!

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