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View Poll Results: What Front Track Bar would you Choose?
Steer Smarts 15 48.39%
Rock Krawler 3 9.68%
Currie 2 6.45%
JKS or Other 11 35.48%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 01-04-2019, 04:00 PM
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Looking to Upgrade My Front Track Bar. What Would You Suggest?

I'm looking to upgrade my front track bar, after putting mine through the ringer the last few years. I have a Teraflex monster forged front bar, however the bushings are starting to tire (Especially frame side). I can see cracks in the bushings and I also see a little more flex in the bushing than I think is normal. I've had deatch wobble twice, but fixed that recently. (Bad control arm bushings and bad drag link end) also been chasing slight shimmy's etc for quite some time.

I currently daily my JKU, do summer camping trips in the sierra and wheel it once or twice a month. I run a Teraflex R44 front axle with 1/2" thick tubes, so weight is definitely much more than stock. I run 37's, 3.5 lift, full steer smarts steering and also have hydro assist going in soon. I play in the rocks, lots of rocks here is Southern California, so please keep that in mind.

Currently thinking hard about these first three track bars:

1) Steer Smarts
2) Rock Krawler
3) Currie
4) JKS or others

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Old 01-04-2019, 05:22 PM   #2
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Old 01-04-2019, 05:34 PM   #3
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I have been running a synergy track bar for about 5 years with good results. My build is similar to yours: 37s, 4.5” lift, PR44 unlimited, PSC hydro, etc. SoCal terrain, plus Rubicon, Moab, etc. Had some death wobble in the past, but doesn’t seem to have been related to the track bar.
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Old 01-04-2019, 07:31 PM   #4
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If you are happy with the track bar but its just the bushings they can be replaced.

https://teraflex.com/shop_items/jk-f...ck-bar-bushing
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Old 01-04-2019, 08:09 PM   #5
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ThatÂ’s the biggest problem with the TF bar is the bushings... Not only the wear, but they are mushy in my opinion.

I like the JKS bar myself... the drawback is the jam nut.
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Old 01-04-2019, 08:14 PM   #6
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Old 01-04-2019, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiend View Post
I have been running a synergy track bar for about 5 years with good results. My build is similar to yours: 37s, 4.5” lift, PR44 unlimited, PSC hydro, etc. SoCal terrain, plus Rubicon, Moab, etc. Had some death wobble in the past, but doesn’t seem to have been related to the track bar.
The bushings in their track bar have changed since you purchased yours, just like the control arms. After dealing with failed bushings from them, I’ve ruled them out. It’s a real pity as I love their hard parts.

On a side note, I’ll be installing one of their frame side track bar reinforcement brackets for sure. (When hydro goes in)
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Old 01-04-2019, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Pressurized View Post
ThatÂ’s the biggest problem with the TF bar is the bushings... Not only the wear, but they are mushy in my opinion.

I like the JKS bar myself... the drawback is the jam nut.
I have also looked at the JKS HD with the high load bearing on the frame side.. Interesting design and a lot like Rock Krawler. Rock Krawler uses a solid bar and JKS uses dom tubing.

Comparing the two I notice with the JKS is that it appears you can tighten the jam nut with the bar installed, making installation much easier than Rock Krawlers.

Click image for larger version

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ID:	4118767

Click image for larger version

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ID:	4118769
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Old 01-04-2019, 11:59 PM   #9
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:28 AM
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RPM doesn’t make track bars as far as I know.. (Only drag links and tie rods)
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:36 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by TRBOKEV View Post
I'm looking to upgrade my front track bar, after putting mine through the ringer the last few years. I have a Teraflex monster forged front bar, however the bushings are starting to tire (Especially frame side). I can see cracks in the bushings and I also see a little more flex in the bushing than I think is normal. I've had deatch wobble twice, but fixed that recently. (Bad control arm bushings and bad drag link end) also been chasing slight shimmy's etc for quite some time.

I currently daily my JKU, do summer camping trips in the sierra and wheel it once or twice a month. I run a Teraflex R44 front axle with 1/2" thick tubes, so weight is definitely much more than stock. I run 37's, 3.5 lift, full steer smarts steering and also have hydro assist going in soon. I play in the rocks, lots of rocks here is Southern California, so please keep that in mind.

Currently thinking hard about these first three track bars:

1) Steer Smarts
2) Rock Krawler
3) Currie
4) JKS or others
I have a bran new adjustable trac bar I’m not needing in box ,100$ n ship it’s yours
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:38 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by TRBOKEV View Post


RPM doesn’t make track bars as far as I know.. (Only drag links and tie rods)
Im sure if you contact Don, he will.... hes about making what customers want. Wouldnt hurt to contact him, might get a great price for being a first!
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:30 AM   #13
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I've wheeled with you before. Just replaced my like new Teraflex TB with a JKS TB because of clearance issues between TB and steering box(pitman arm and sector shaft nut). A lot more clearance with the JKS, which, by the way, uses the same rubber bushings as the TF TB. I'm not pushing JKS, I just don't like the bend of the monster TF TB. If you want a like new TF TB again, come on out and I'll help you put it on. Mark
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBOKEV View Post
I have also looked at the JKS HD with the high load bearing on the frame side.. Interesting design and a lot like Rock Krawler. Rock Krawler uses a solid bar and JKS uses dom tubing.

Comparing the two I notice with the JKS is that it appears you can tighten the jam nut with the bar installed, making installation much easier than Rock Krawlers.

Attachment 4118767

Attachment 4118769
Yes, it can be tightened when installed... But I also want to express that the current RK bar is a new design versus the one I had experience with. It looks vastly improved.

I'm betting you would do well with either.
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:30 AM   #15
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You will be upgrading to a better product if you choose any of the choices above. Steersmarts is a favorite of mine, but it's huge, not sure of it playing well with clearances and other manufacturers products. Synergy products are excellent also. I would just try to stay with factory type bushings and ease of adjustment. Don't cheap out on this, the bar is a major safety item.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:25 AM
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I've wheeled with you before. Just replaced my like new Teraflex TB with a JKS TB because of clearance issues between TB and steering box(pitman arm and sector shaft nut). A lot more clearance with the JKS, which, by the way, uses the same rubber bushings as the TF TB. I'm not pushing JKS, I just don't like the bend of the monster TF TB. If you want a like new TF TB again, come on out and I'll help you put it on. Mark
Mark I definitely remember you and thanks for the input. At this point I’m looking at trying something different myself. I had issues with my HD drag link end (Pitman side) contacting what I was sure was only the swaybar, which caused the drag link end to fail. (Which caused death wobble). I’m converting my JKS end links for my Rubicon e disco swaybar into full disconnect versions to avoid this in the future. Now I wonder if I’m also having clearance issues with the track bar like you ran into? I do have my front axle pushed forward and I have really good axle alignment that has caster correction and I’m running 3” bumpstops due to my drag link being flipped. (That drag link still making minor rubbing on the frame at full flex and wheel turned hard driver). I’ll have to pull springs and look at things, but was already going to pull them soon to take care of a few other issues like that contact issue and a slight JK lean to passenger that I’m going to correct.
The tinkering never ends.. Good thing it’s like therapy to me.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:45 AM
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Yes, it can be tightened when installed... But I also want to express that the current RK bar is a new design versus the one I had experience with. It looks vastly improved.

I'm betting you would do well with either.
Thanks for the opinion and I agree the Rock Krawler looks much improved. It now only has adjustment at the axle side, and is a solid bar with reinforcement at the frame side mounting location. My only concern is clearance and how durable their Krawler joint is. (I have no experience with them). I also see that the rubber bushing on the frame side has a zerk for greasing. Wonder how that works and also wonder if I need to buy another 50 dollar grease gun and get special grease for that one joint. I run Lucas heavy duty “green” in everything right now.

I also wonder how durable the JKS axle side joint/bearing is on their HD bar. They state the following about it: “The 42,000lbs static load rated COM bearing has a self-lubricating injection molded race for reliable function that will last a long time.” I’m very intrigued by the JKS HD bar the more I look at it...
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:01 AM
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You will be upgrading to a better product if you choose any of the choices above. Steersmarts is a favorite of mine, but it's huge, not sure of it playing well with clearances and other manufacturers products. Synergy products are excellent also. I would just try to stay with factory type bushings and ease of adjustment. Don't cheap out on this, the bar is a major safety item.
Thanks for the opinion. I’m definitely not into “cheaping out” as I’ve put more money into the jeep than I’d like to admit and have so many aftermarket parts laying around in my garage that I’ve changed out due to this and that that I can build another full lift kit and still have extra parts.

I was actually set on the steer smarts bar (I run their HD steering) and the wife was going to get it for me for Christmas but I asked her to hold off. The bar is huge, but also runs rubber bushings at both sides. I wonder if running a bushing at one side and a joint at the other is better suited to all the flex my axle sees? (Flex and more importantly busing durability due to flex).

This is the whole reason for this thread, to try and figure that out without having to buy one, two, or three more track bars in the next year.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:07 AM   #19
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Looking to Upgrade My Front Track Bar. What Would You Suggest?

I love the TF monster bar and would opt for new bushings. Had one on my 2008 for 6 years no issue. On my new Jeep the TF Monster bar will be going in as well. In areas that you get snow and ice where they use sand and salt on the road, bushings last the longest. We find that hiems and flex joints only last a year or two if lucky.


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Old 01-05-2019, 11:02 AM   #20
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I have been running a synergy track bar for about 5 years with good results. My build is similar to yours: 37s, 4.5” lift, PR44 unlimited, PSC hydro, etc. SoCal terrain, plus Rubicon, Moab, etc. Had some death wobble in the past, but doesn’t seem to have been related to the track bar.
The bushings in their track bar have changed since you purchased yours, just like the control arms. After dealing with failed bushings from them, I’ve ruled them out. It’s a real pity as I love their hard parts.

On a side note, I’ll be installing one of their frame side track bar reinforcement brackets for sure. (When hydro goes in)
Have you considered going back to your stock track bar? Assuming you have a raised TB bracket, you may not need an adjustable.
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:45 PM
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Have you considered going back to your stock track bar? Assuming you have a raised TB bracket, you may not need an adjustable.
I haven’t even considered that and I do have that little thing stuck somewhere in the rafters. I do have a raised track bar bracket, so that might be worth a shot.
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:08 PM   #22
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I haven’t even considered that and I do have that little thing stuck somewhere in the rafters. I do have a raised track bar bracket, so that might be worth a shot.
When I inquired about the Steersmarts track bar to go with the rest of the yeti steering a few years back Steersmarts said the fact that I wasn't lifted much it wasn't worth doing because I wouldn't need much adjustment and the stock bar is a forged piece and plenty strong. I have limited real estate up front with the yeti setup and XD attenuator and a Fox ATS stabilizer. Nice having a company give you solid advice and not looking to sell you everything.......
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Old 01-05-2019, 07:36 PM
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Well I installed my oem front track bar and just drove up to the local mountains to enjoy a snow storm as it rolled in.

I get more feedback in the steering wheel now, but the track bar seems to not be my culprit for my current issues. (Steering wheel wiggle and Jeep bouncing and shimmying side to side above 65mph).

Time to try another wheel balance. Discount/America’s tire has done them 3 times in ~7k miles I’ve owned them but I’m not confident they are doing it right even though it’s on a road force balancer.

Thanks @fiend for the recommendation to try the stock bar. I only had to adjust my drag link 1/2 a turn to get the steering wheel centered, it was barely off after the swap. So did you install your hydro assist yourself or have a shop do it? Looking for someone to install my kit and your local to me.
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:26 PM   #24
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Wheel balance, unit bearings, and ball joints are things to check for what you describe.

I installed my own PSC system. I’m sure there are shops that can do it, but I don’t have direct experience with any.
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:41 PM
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Wheel balance, unit bearings, and ball joints are things to check for what you describe.

I installed my own PSC system. I’m sure there are shops that can do it, but I don’t have direct experience with any.
I put in new timken unit bearings when I put in my R44 front axle and the axle included their new ball joints (7k miles ago). I’ve been diligent with checking and adjusting the preload on them. I didn’t have this current steering wheel problem until my last tire balance and install of new springs and control arms. (All at the same time).

I’ve had issues since axle install and have just been working through issue after issue. Bad driveshaft yoke in the rear causing a pulsing vibe, bad front gear setup, bad control arm bushings and lastly bad drag link end.

I need to have tabs welded for the ram and really just want my hydro setup correct from the start. I getting tired of working through things and don’t want to have to work through steering. I had one quote so far but they wanted 1300 to install and that’s just stupidly too expensive imo.
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Old 01-05-2019, 08:59 PM   #26
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I fought shimmy and wobble for about a year. I bit the bulliet and went with dynatrac pro ball joints and Steer Smarts Yeti HD extreme everything else, tie rod, draglink, track bar, brackets. Not sure what cured the issues. I’m satisfied with the results.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:23 PM
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I fought shimmy and wobble for about a year. I bit the bulliet and went with dynatrac pro ball joints and Steer Smarts Yeti HD extreme everything else, tie rod, draglink, track bar, brackets. Not sure what cured the issues. I’m satisfied with the results.
I have a yeti HD tie rod and drag link. Just replaced a bad drag link end on the pitman side. Was thinking track bar and that was the reason for this thread. I hope it’s not ball joints, as I just sold my spare set of dynatracs I had. LOL. Guess I’ll check the preload again on the ball joints but every time I check them I get zero movement up and down in the joints and no rocking of the tire. I’ll go through everything again next week though I guess.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:27 PM   #28
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Good luck! Sometimes these issues are hard to nail down.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:36 PM   #29
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Wheel balance, unit bearings, and ball joints are things to check for what you describe.

I installed my own PSC system. I’m sure there are shops that can do it, but I don’t have direct experience with any.
I put in new timken unit bearings when I put in my R44 front axle and the axle included their new ball joints (7k miles ago). I’ve been diligent with checking and adjusting the preload on them. I didn’t have this current steering wheel problem until my last tire balance and install of new springs and control arms. (All at the same time).

I’ve had issues since axle install and have just been working through issue after issue. Bad driveshaft yoke in the rear causing a pulsing vibe, bad front gear setup, bad control arm bushings and lastly bad drag link end.

I need to have tabs welded for the ram and really just want my hydro setup correct from the start. I getting tired of working through things and don’t want to have to work through steering. I had one quote so far but they wanted 1300 to install and that’s just stupidly too expensive imo.
Try swapping tires front to rear and rear to front. If it’s a wheel balance issue, that will help isolate it. Also check your pitman arm.

$1300 to install the PSC is a lot of money. One of the reasons I do everything myself, except mount and balance tires. I even welded my own tabs for the ram. Not the greatest looking welds, but they’ve held up to the Rubicon, Moab, and many local trips.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:40 PM   #30
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I'd be reinforcing that front frameside TB bracket sooner then later.

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