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Old 11-02-2018, 06:58 PM
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Losing power then stalls

I'm the only owner of my 2012 JKU and have taken great care of it over 7 years. The last 3 weeks have been hell. It will be driving fine and without notice loses power like I'm out of gas and then stalls. Two weeks ago replaced thermostat, engine sensor, and crankshaft sensor. Last weekend after wheeling it took me 3 hours to go what should have taken 45 minutes as jeep kept stalling. Jeep dealer replaced the entire engine oil adapter, gaskets etc (the entire assembly needed to be replaced) among other things ($900 later). I picked it up last night and tonight after a total of maybe 30 miles it died on the road again 3 times. Anyone else have this happen and what did you do?

I've spent $1200+ the last 3 weeks and losing power at 45+ mph is almost as scary as death wobble as I have lost power steering and breaks. On the edge of selling it and going back to a truck.

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Old 11-02-2018, 07:05 PM   #2
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I have had this happen once in my jk. It was a lose battery connection.
Had it happen in a car and it ended up being the fuel cutoff switch. The one that is supposed to cut the gas when you crash, it was shorting. That was insanely hard to pin down.

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Old 11-02-2018, 07:17 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by fuzzylogic_y2k View Post
I have had this happen once in my jk. It was a lose battery connection.
Had it happen in a car and it ended up being the fuel cutoff switch. The one that is supposed to cut the gas when you crash, it was shorting. That was insanely hard to pin down.
The inertia switch, that was a good call by whoever made that diagnosis.

OP I'd check the battery connections and grounds, then check for codes, and fuel trim.
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Old 11-02-2018, 07:18 PM
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This isn't me, but exactly what happens:

Thanks fuzzy logic, I checked the battery cables and they're tight. checking you tube to see where the fuel cutoff switch is.
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Old 11-02-2018, 07:31 PM   #5
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The inertia switch, that was a good call by whoever made that diagnosis.

OP I'd check the battery connections and grounds, then check for codes, and fuel trim.
I made that call on my buddy's taurus after he spent a few grand on repairs and was about to scrap it.
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Old 11-02-2018, 07:32 PM   #6
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Wow the engine oil adapter? Are you talking about the oil cooler? That part has nothing to do with your problem. Why did they change that?

Sounds like a fuel or electric problem.

If it were my own, I would look at spark plugs, coils, fuel injectors, and fuel pump. Could also be some kinda of short or ground, but would look at the common things above.
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Old 11-02-2018, 07:54 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by fuzzylogic_y2k View Post
I made that call on my buddy's taurus after he spent a few grand on repairs and was about to scrap it.
Good call! Many of today's so called techs toss parts and hope, at the vehicle owner's expense until they get it right.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:02 PM   #8
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This isn't me, but exactly what happens:
https://youtu.be/vEvnefJtfmc

Thanks fuzzy logic, I checked the battery cables and they're tight. checking you tube to see where the fuel cutoff switch is.
I had a Ford van that did that, 1987 the first year for EFI in the 4.9L engine. They had over $14,000 in attempted warranty repairs, and never got it fixed. That was about what I paid for it. LOL Dangerous was an understatement! I got a call from Ford Corporate asking me what I wanted them to do, prior to submitting the lemon law papers. They replaced it with my 88 E-150 which I still own today.

I had extreme patience and another vehicle to drive while I patiently built my case. Unfortunately for the OP his vehicle is not new.
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:04 PM   #9
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The way I troubleshoot when presented with a gremlin. 1. Start by figuring out everything that can toss a code. Since no code is present, rule all of that out.
2. Start wiggling wires and jiggling connections while running. (50% success rate)
3. Start disconnecting and reconnecting everything that wont throw a code. (While running) to see if it kills the engine.
4. Same thing with stuff that does code. See if any kill the engine without leaving a code.
5. If none of the above works I build logging/error traps.
Note steps 3 and 4 should be done looking at a wiring diagram. There are many connections that are not easily accessible.
6. When all else fails, find/make a friend with the same vehicle and borrow their computer.
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Old 11-04-2018, 07:56 AM
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Missing ground - 2012 JKU

Can someone look at their 2012 JK/JKU and see if you have a grounding post of even a ground on your drive side based on attachments here? According to the web, the engine has 3 grounds but I can't find this one on the driver side. In the picture from my phone (yellow cap is washer fluid for reference) you'll see what appears to be a space for a threaded bolt which is extremely clean like a bolt came lose. Since I wheeled it last week I wouldn't expect it to look clean at all. I simply can't find a ground wire based on the schematics so any guidance appreciated.

sincerely,
No mechanic but can't afford one either!
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Old 11-04-2018, 09:09 AM   #11
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That cap isn't your washer fluid, it's the master cylinder and that same hole is vacant on mine as well. Referring to the diagram, that's a strap going up to the underside of your hood. If it helps, from my '12

The post on the driver side is here (disregard bracket above it-vacuum pump relocation):




2 more like it in on passenger side approx same location as drivers
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Old 11-04-2018, 09:57 AM
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Thanks. I don't see the strap on the driver side at all. Still lookimg
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Old 11-04-2018, 12:42 PM   #13
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Mmmm, that would be odd. FWIW, I seem to recall another grounding post under the drivers seat (or both?).
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Old 11-04-2018, 12:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic318 View Post
I'm the only owner of my 2012 JKU and have taken great care of it over 7 years. The last 3 weeks have been hell. It will be driving fine and without notice loses power like I'm out of gas and then stalls. Two weeks ago replaced thermostat, engine sensor, and crankshaft sensor. Last weekend after wheeling it took me 3 hours to go what should have taken 45 minutes as jeep kept stalling. Jeep dealer replaced the entire engine oil adapter, gaskets etc (the entire assembly needed to be replaced) among other things ($900 later). I picked it up last night and tonight after a total of maybe 30 miles it died on the road again 3 times. Anyone else have this happen and what did you do?
To dig a bit deeper:
Why was thermostat replaced?
What is an "engine sensor"? Specifics are important here.
Crankshaft sensor was smart to do as it's easy and cheap to replace, not uncommon in fault and often doesn't kick codes.
Oil filter adapter? Why, leaking?
Did the dealer or anyone pull codes? If so, results?

Seems there is more going on here that you may not know to share, not being a mechanic and all. Care to scan and post the dealer service invoice?

Likely something easy to troubleshoot with a capable code reader with mode 6, knowledge and patience but symptomatic of several component possibilities.
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Old 11-07-2018, 08:32 PM   #15
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I think its your fuel pump thats going..... look up fuel pump bypass in google for dodge
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Old 11-08-2018, 12:27 PM   #16
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+1 for verifying fuel pump. easy to do wait for it to die. open gas cap, turn key and you should hear it prime on initial key on. if its not then start there it might not be the pump itself. relays commonly fail when hot.
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Old 11-09-2018, 09:07 AM   #17
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X3 on the fuel pump and possibly relay for same.
Fuel pumps are cooled by the flow of fuel through and around them. I try to use the 1/4 tank mark as my empty mark and stopped buying fuel pumps.
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Old 11-11-2018, 12:48 PM
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Latest update...Jeep had zero issues for 3-4 days and stalled Friday and Saturday. Yesterday stalled without warning going 45 with no power steering or breaks. Thank the lord for medians! Yesterday codes were p0141& p0147 so I cleaned throttle body, filter housing, and new filter. Today through new code P0113. I may have mentioned dealer saw 10 codes when I brought it there. I checked fuse box again and all connections are tight. With all these random codes I'm wondering if the computer is done? At $500 for a new computer, that's high to guess if that's the issue. Anyone now how to test the computer on a 2012 jeep as I can't find anything on you tube. Thanks
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Old 11-12-2018, 03:45 AM   #19
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Make sure you plugged that one connector in on intake tube. If you don't, it will throw the P0113 code.
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:18 AM   #20
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I just went through this on Thursday with my work van. I checked fuel pressure and determined, during a no start episode I had no fuel pressure. I changed the high pressure fuel pump, This vehicle has three fuel pumps, one low pressure pump in each of the two fuel tanks, and a high pressure fuel pump on the frame rail under the drivers seat. After smacking it with a rubber hammer and it restarting I was 100% certain it was that pump. Switching from the front to the rear tank didn't start it when it had a no start episode.That was an easy part of the troubleshooting process for me.

Bottom line check the fuel pressure.

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