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Old 02-05-2015, 06:39 PM
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Mods that come with 35's and 3"/3.5" lift

Soon I am going to be putting 35's and probably a 3 inch lift on my 2014 JKU Rubicon. However, apparently there are some other modifications that come with doing so. Can someone tell me what these might be? Am I going to have to (or should I) make changes to my steering, brakes, or driveline? I am keeping my Bushwacker Fender Flares, so I am also wondering if there will be enough movability for my tires with only a 3 inch lift. Anything that will be better for the Jeep with this tire/lift combo, please share!!

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Old 02-05-2015, 06:45 PM   #2
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my 3" teraflex lift gave me 5" overall lift. with that came the need for a new front drive shaft. what lift are you planning on using?

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Old 02-05-2015, 07:01 PM
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my 3" teraflex lift gave me 5" overall lift. with that came the need for a new front drive shaft. what lift are you planning on using?
Probably the 3". What kind of drive shaft should I get? Aside: I don't know if this changes anything, but I have front and rear lockers, and a 3.73 rear axle ratio.
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:13 PM   #4
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same ratio and the fact you have lockers dosen't matter. its the angle of the transfer case/drive shaft. will tear up your shaft within a few thousand miles. i went with Adams. like that the yokes are replaceable with easily acquired parts...woods makes and awesome shaft, but you have to get replacement parts from them and them alone
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:18 PM   #5
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What brand of lift are you looking at? They all contain different parts and it will help us identify what you will need.
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:25 PM
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What brand of lift are you looking at? They all contain different parts and it will help us identify what you will need.
AEV 3.5" Lift Kit
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:02 PM   #7
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AEV 3.5" Lift Kit
Drive shaft should be kept in mind but is not required right away on that lift. However, an exhaust spacer kit is. Most people run the Rugged Ridge kit, I chose the Rubicon Express kit because I liked the design better.

Rugged Ridge Wrangler Exhaust Spacer Kit w/ 2.5-Inch + Lift 17606.76 (12-15 Wrangler JK) - Free Shipping

Personally I don't care for their front sway bar link extension brackets and would buy a longer standard link for a Rubicon or a set of disconnects for a non-Rubi.

Lastly, 3.5 is getting high without lengthening the rear control arms and you have to cut the pinch seam for tire clearance since the axle has swung quite a ways forward. If I was at 3.5, I would buy a set of fixed rear lower control arms and adjustable uppers to improve the rear geometry. The front is fine with the drop brackets included.

The AEV kit is really pretty good, it has the steering flip included, but if I was spending that much I think I would fine tune it... I'm sure someone will disagree with my opinion.
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:10 PM   #8
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Drive shaft should be kept in mind but is not required right away on that lift.
for this one, maybe not. i only mentioned it because of the actual height i gained required it...even though it was a 3" lift.
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:19 PM   #9
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for this one, maybe not. i only mentioned it because of the actual height i gained required it...even though it was a 3" lift.
Completely agree. I think the AEV's are pretty consistent on height.
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:33 PM   #10
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Agree on rear control arms at 3.5 inches.
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:33 PM
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Drive shaft should be kept in mind but is not required right away on that lift. However, an exhaust spacer kit is. Most people run the Rugged Ridge kit, I chose the Rubicon Express kit because I liked the design better.

Rugged Ridge Wrangler Exhaust Spacer Kit w/ 2.5-Inch + Lift 17606.76 (12-15 Wrangler JK) - Free Shipping

Personally I don't care for their front sway bar link extension brackets and would buy a longer standard link for a Rubicon or a set of disconnects for a non-Rubi.

Lastly, 3.5 is getting high without lengthening the rear control arms and you have to cut the pinch seam for tire clearance since the axle has swung quite a ways forward. If I was at 3.5, I would buy a set of fixed rear lower control arms and adjustable uppers to improve the rear geometry. The front is fine with the drop brackets included.

The AEV kit is really pretty good, it has the steering flip included, but if I was spending that much I think I would fine tune it... I'm sure someone will disagree with my opinion.
Any changes to this if I only wanted an AEV 2.5? Thanks so much
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:41 PM   #12
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I have the aev 3.5 lift and 35" nitto trail graplers . The rear wheals are well centered( no trimming or cutting needed) The ride/handeling is very good . You do need to modify the exhaust either with a new y pipe or spacer kit. I would install the kit as is, I did and love it
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 14RubiconJKU View Post
Any changes to this if I only wanted an AEV 2.5? Thanks so much
The AEV 2.5 is one of the kits that I am considering as the base for my current project...

I still would install front sway bar disconnects and exhaust spacers, but there is nothing needed for the rear.

The 2.5 doesn't include the front control arm drop brackets that the 3.5 has, I would add those.

A lot of people don't put on an adjustable front track bar bracket on this kit, but my build list has it.
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2006 LJ Rubicon - Solar Yellow - Very Stock'ish - The Press Casual LJ-R build
2012 JKU Sahara - Pro Comp LED Headlights - PRS Audio mod- SWS - GraBars - Bestop Cargo Cover
- Mopar 2" Frankenlift - Teraflex Falcon Shocks - RE TB/Brackets - JKS mount/Bilstein stabilizer -
Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
- TORQ Locker - 1310 Driveshaft - PowerTrax Grip Pro - Full Core 4x4 Control Arms and Track Bars
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Old 02-06-2015, 01:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pressurized View Post
The AEV 2.5 is one of the kits that I am considering as the base for my current project...

I still would install front sway bar disconnects and exhaust spacers, but there is nothing needed for the rear.

The 2.5 doesn't include the front control arm drop brackets that the 3.5 has, I would add those.

A lot of people don't put on an adjustable front track bar bracket on this kit, but my build list has it.
Front Control Arm Geometry Brackets are necessary at 3.5" in my opinion. After swapping out all 8 control arms on my TJ and really dialing everything back in, adding caster back makes a huge difference in the handling. Having to balance between caster and pinion angle is all the more reason to get geo brackets or Adjustable Control Arms.

Good luck with the build and let me know if you have any questions or if I can get you a price on anything!

-Ryan
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Old 02-07-2015, 11:45 AM   #15
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You'd be much happier with the 2.5 unless you've got deep pockets. You can get away with a 3-3.5 inch lift and not mess with arms, drivelines, etc. but it's probably not ideal on or off road. Your looking at another $1000-$1500 for the drivelines, arms, etc. and more if you change out brakelines, track bars, etc.

At 2.5, you probably only need exhaust spacers ($30), Northridge bolt kit (cheap insurance for any lift), and control arm frop brackets. Should ride and handle better than stock with plenty of clearance for 35's. You go to 3 inches plus and you're opening a can of worms. Not saying you shouldn't, it's your money and your Jeep but if you want a relatively inexpensive lift, good looks and great performance, go 2.5.

BTW, Ryan is right. Arms can only adjust caster/pinion and move the axle back and forth relative to the frame to get it centered in the wheel well again. Brackets fix the geometry of the lower arms which is critical for proper handling and braking. At 3.5, both together are probably ideal. At 2.5, just the brackets are all you need but arms don't hurt anything.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:38 PM
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same ratio and the fact you have lockers dosen't matter. its the angle of the transfer case/drive shaft. will tear up your shaft within a few thousand miles. i went with Adams. like that the yokes are replaceable with easily acquired parts...woods makes and awesome shaft, but you have to get replacement parts from them and them alone
So I'm getting from this that I should get a new front drive shaft (Adams). Is there a specific length or specification shaft I should get? Should I pretty much just bring my Jeep to the shop and ask them to install this new front drive shaft for me? Lastly, what should I do about the transfer case?
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:53 PM   #17
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who it comes from is a decision you must make for yourself...i would research them all to see who is gonna be the best one for you. on Welcome to Adams Driveshaft and Off Road | Henderson, NV there is a guide to show you how to measure for your build. im sure the other companies do the same. and if you have access to the tools, no reason to pay someone else to install it...that is half the fun of upgrading your jeep. i have never paid anyone to do anything to my jeep (except mount tires on my rims).
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Old 02-14-2015, 06:39 AM   #18
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I have 20k miles on an AEV 3.5" lift on a 2013 Rubicon 2dr manual trans. I have had no issues with the stock driveline, and I didn't have to make any additional mods like cutting the pinch seams in the rear. Rides great, handles great, and does fine for my offroad for what it was designed for (more overlanding than rock crawling).
What I feel was necessary include:
*Took to muffler shop and had exhaust reshaped around the front driveshaft for clearance. $90 and no chance of leaking (it is welded)
* ACE rock sliders which also act as a step so my wife can get into the thing
* Hawk LTS brake pads F/R. Stock brake pads are very uninspiring with 35" tires. I am still not completely happy with panic stopping power, but the brakes feel worlds better than stock under normal use. May try Centric Fleet pads (same compound as Stoptech Street Performance which I love on my sports cars) to get rid of the horrible dusting (color and amount) the Hawks have. The dust is reddish brown (lots of iron) and looks horrible after a week or two.
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Old 02-14-2015, 06:59 AM   #19
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A front shaft or spacers depends on increased shock travel, and if you wheel or not. If the jeep is primarily street driven, or you're not disconnecting the swaybar, exhaust spacers or a DS is not needed. I only say this because I see the question "do I need exhaust spacers with XX lift" all the time.

Edit .. The post above is a option too. I just started seeing people have custom work done on the exhaust pipe. Cheap option if you don't have confidence running exhaust spacers.
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Old 02-16-2015, 10:10 AM
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A front shaft or spacers depends on increased shock travel, and if you wheel or not. If the jeep is primarily street driven, or you're not disconnecting the swaybar, exhaust spacers or a DS is not needed. I only say this because I see the question "do I need exhaust spacers with XX lift" all the time.

Edit .. The post above is a option too. I just started seeing people have custom work done on the exhaust pipe. Cheap option if you don't have confidence running exhaust spacers.
Why do people not want to run exhaust spacers?
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Old 02-16-2015, 10:48 AM   #21
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I have the 2.5" dual sport with correction brackets and Teraflex front track bar. It rides grate but when I put 315/70/17 tires and fuel wheels with 4.5" of back spacing.. It rubs the frame and the fenders when wheeling on fairly rough terrain.. They say on their site it works but it doesn't unless your a mall crawler.. Very disappointed
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Old 02-16-2015, 04:01 PM   #22
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My AEV 3.5" lift provided just over 4.75"in the front until I added armor. A set of adjustable front lower control arms really fine tune that kit even with geometry brackets. I used the Clayton arms but today I would go MC arms. If it's in your budget a set of 8 CAs is a great addition.

The 3.5 lift provides more than enough lift for 35s.With the flat fenders even the 2.5" suffices.

Wait until they start to fail but depending on how and where you drive sooner or later you will need to replace:

- Driveshafts -front first
- Ball joints
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Old 02-16-2015, 04:54 PM   #23
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Soon I am going to be putting 35's and probably a 3 inch lift on my 2014 JKU Rubicon. However, apparently there are some other modifications that come with doing so. Can someone tell me what these might be? Am I going to have to (or should I) make changes to my steering, brakes, or driveline? I am keeping my Bushwacker Fender Flares, so I am also wondering if there will be enough movability for my tires with only a 3 inch lift. Anything that will be better for the Jeep with this tire/lift combo, please share!!
Our 2.5" kit gives a 4 door about 3" over stock in the front and 2" over stock in the rear so you could fit a 35" tire no problem.At this lift height you will need an exhaust spacer but will be ok with the factory drive shafts.

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