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Old 09-16-2016, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonny Dazzles View Post
Is there a big difference between the Core 4x4 and the Teraflex monster track bar? I like the Core 4x4 CAs and I think getting a white matching track bar would be sweet.
Strength wise I couldn't tell ya. TF = easier to set and adjust, stock clevite bushings. CORE = JJ on one end clevite on other.

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Old 09-16-2016, 02:04 PM   #1802
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The rancho geo brackets on page 1 are $166 at amazon. I bought my at autoplicity for $137.95 shipped. Click Here.. The picture is not coorect, but the part number is. Mine was delivered 9/16/16.
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Old 09-16-2016, 02:05 PM
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The rancho geo brackets on page 1 are $166 at amazon. I bought my at autoplicity for $137.95 shipped. Click Here.. The picture is not coorect, but the part number is. Mine was delivered 9/16/16.
They went up apparently.
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Old 09-16-2016, 03:52 PM   #1804
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So do some dont. Im confidant i hit 300 or close to it. I also lobbed a shit load of anti seize inside the tubes too.

23 1/8 is .5 over stock. Synergy's fixed lowers are the same. 23 1/8 is ideal and works alone or with uppers.
Are the following numbers good for the front track bar and adjustable discos?

Trackbar - 2.5" - 32 9/16
Discos - 11"
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Old 09-16-2016, 04:53 PM
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Are the following numbers good for the front track bar and adjustable discos? Trackbar - 2.5" - 32 9/16 Discos - 11"
Track bars and link settings have other variables. You want to get the new coils in then measure. A good spot is from the top of the coil bucket to a common point on the tires (mold line for example)
Take that number, divide it by 2. Add that to the stock measurement and good.

For disco's take one and adjust it out so the swaybar points up 5° or so. Take the 2nd link and adjust it to the swaybar holes. Doing it this way rather then setting both the same length keeps the seaybar from having any load on it at ride height.
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Old 09-17-2016, 11:35 PM   #1806
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I'd have to agree, having just done this from a Rubicon setup. Weight will decrease that as well. I had to go with 4" TF springs in the rear to get 2-2.5" of lift over stock. I've got bumper/carrier and carry other items. If you are still stock HR, I would expect 1" to 1.5".
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Originally Posted by stevepsd View Post
Well I'll find out in a day or so, as I am in the middle of my TF 2.5" coil lift install. My only concern is that the TF rear springs are only a 1" or so longer than the stock 60 springs, but I am sure the spring rate is higher on the TF so hopefully less sag and will still get me about 2" of lift in the rear.
Well, I got the lift installed (mostly) and I netted a solid 3" up front but only a bit over 1" out back on my Hard Rock.

The Jeep is darn near level, but I was hoping for a little bit more in the back. The rear bumpstop is really close to the axle pad as well.

I think I'll call Teraflex Monday and see what they say. I double checked the spring part #'s that are embossed on the springs and they are the correct ones. Is it because the HR came with 60 springs on it from the factory so it is a bit higher than a Sport (or Rubicon?)
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:49 AM   #1807
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Okay, I've had my RK Flex system installed for a couple months now and have a few questions. What is the best way to check that things are "dialed in" so to speak in the measurement dept. Since basically it is adjustable, what should I be looking at. Also while doing my tightening check, there seems to be no way to get a wrench on the front lower CA's to check. How does everyone else do this? The only way I can see is to drop the axle side??Must be a better way? Same with my the front track bar - as that was actually loose. Got it tightened some but still no room. One last thing. The rear is at least 1/2" to the driver side. Acceptable or should I look into an adjustable rear track bar.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:14 AM
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Okay, I've had my RK Flex system installed for a couple months now and have a few questions. What is the best way to check that things are "dialed in" so to speak in the measurement dept. Since basically it is adjustable, what should I be looking at. Also while doing my tightening check, there seems to be no way to get a wrench on the front lower CA's to check. How does everyone else do this? The only way I can see is to drop the axle side??Must be a better way? Same with my the front track bar - as that was actually loose. Got it tightened some but still no room. One last thing. The rear is at least 1/2" to the driver side. Acceptable or should I look into an adjustable rear track bar.
Honestly dude just remove one arm at a time and put it on a vice. That way you can ensure its tight.
Ive heard of people dropping the axle side and leveraging off the frame side. Not too sure i feel confident in that. Also draw a paint marker line across the jam nut and arm for a visual.
The only important measurement is the front arm lengths (caster angle) and if you rig handles ok you're fine there.
Do you remember what they were set to? 23-231/8 is common for stock caster angle.
Track bar is tough, can you get to it buy dropping the tie rod or knuckle side of the drag link? I was able to get to my axle side jam nut popping the drag link off the knuckle and using a crows foot and breaker bar.
Check out the Superlift rear track bar to center up the axle.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:30 AM   #1809
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Originally Posted by stevepsd View Post
Well, I got the lift installed (mostly) and I netted a solid 3" up front but only a bit over 1" out back on my Hard Rock. The Jeep is darn near level, but I was hoping for a little bit more in the back. The rear bumpstop is really close to the axle pad as well. I think I'll call Teraflex Monday and see what they say. I double checked the spring part #'s that are embossed on the springs and they are the correct ones. Is it because the HR came with 60 springs on it from the factory so it is a bit higher than a Sport (or Rubicon?)

Let me know what they say, cause I had to add a rear spacer in back. And I netted 2" ... Not 3
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:22 AM   #1810
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Honestly dude just remove one arm at a time and put it on a vice. That way you can ensure its tight.
Ive heard of people dropping the axle side and leveraging off the frame side. Not too sure i feel confident in that. Also draw a paint marker line across the jam nut and arm for a visual.
The only important measurement is the front arm lengths (caster angle) and if you rig handles ok you're fine there.
Do you remember what they were set to? 23-231/8 is common for stock caster angle.
Track bar is tough, can you get to it buy dropping the tie rod or knuckle side of the drag link? I was able to get to my axle side jam nut popping the drag link off the knuckle and using a crows foot and breaker bar.
Check out the Superlift rear track bar to center up the axle.

Yea i did the line marker this time - forgot to originally. I set them 20 23 1/8 - I think you actually told me that when I was doing the install. I don't seem to have any driving issues. My biggest concern is the rear. Any reason for that brand over say the RK adjustable?
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MyaTheBlockHead View Post
Yea i did the line marker this time - forgot to originally. I set them 20 23 1/8 - I think you actually told me that when I was doing the install. I don't seem to have any driving issues. My biggest concern is the rear. Any reason for that brand over say the RK adjustable?
Easier to set and adjust with only 1 jam nut. Also cheaper.
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:01 PM   #1812
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Easier to set and adjust with only 1 jam nut. Also cheaper.
As far as dropping LCA for adjusting, whats the easiest way to drop it. Meaning, in lifting the front, do you want to jack it then support the side with jack stands, and then drop the front to release the tension? Or is there an easier way.

thanks again for the help!
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Old 09-18-2016, 03:09 PM
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As far as dropping LCA for adjusting, whats the easiest way to drop it. Meaning, in lifting the front, do you want to jack it then support the side with jack stands, and then drop the front to release the tension? Or is there an easier way. thanks again for the help!
Just unbolt and drop one at a time. Place a wheel chuck on the side removed to help to keep the holes aligned.
At ride height, parked there is no load on any of the CA's or TB's.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:17 AM   #1814
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My TF 2.5" lift and 35x12.5x17 KO2s were just installed and I noticed my ABS and traction control lights on dash were lit up. The drive is fine and smooth but in 6th gear I'm not going over 60. Even if I'm 70 in 5th it'll drop down when I shift to 6th even with the pedal all the way to the floor. Wondering if anybody has any insight on this
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:48 AM   #1815
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My TF 2.5" lift and 35x12.5x17 KO2s were just installed and I noticed my ABS and traction control lights on dash were lit up. The drive is fine and smooth but in 6th gear I'm not going over 60. Even if I'm 70 in 5th it'll drop down when I shift to 6th even with the pedal all the way to the floor. Wondering if anybody has any insight on this
Steering wheel not completely centered? Sounds like you need to re-gear. You 3.21's by chance?
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:55 AM   #1816
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Originally Posted by NYSahara13 View Post
My TF 2.5" lift and 35x12.5x17 KO2s were just installed and I noticed my ABS and traction control lights on dash were lit up. The drive is fine and smooth but in 6th gear I'm not going over 60. Even if I'm 70 in 5th it'll drop down when I shift to 6th even with the pedal all the way to the floor. Wondering if anybody has any insight on this
Steering wheel not completely centered? Sounds like you need to re-gear. You 3.21's by chance?

I'll be honest I'm not sure what my gear ratio is. They haven't been changed so whatever stock gears for a manual 2013 Sahara JKU are... a realignment has been done and I haven't notice a problem while driving. You think centering the steering wheel can be the cause for the lights? My mechanic is going to order a new sensor because he said they didn't go anywhere near it so it didn't make sense why it would be on
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:21 AM   #1817
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My TF 2.5" lift and 35x12.5x17 KO2s were just installed and I noticed my ABS and traction control lights on dash were lit up. The drive is fine and smooth but in 6th gear I'm not going over 60. Even if I'm 70 in 5th it'll drop down when I shift to 6th even with the pedal all the way to the floor. Wondering if anybody has any insight on this
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Steering wheel not completely centered? Sounds like you need to re-gear. You 3.21's by chance?
This... ^

If the front is not perfectly centered (it can be off a hair and drive fine) it will kick on the ABS/Traction Control on the dash. Easiest way is to adjust it a little at a time. Tell the mechanic he should not have to change a sensor.

And yes, sounds like a regear is in the future. Call the dealer and give them your VIN and they should be able to tell you what gear ratio you are running.

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Old 09-19-2016, 11:15 AM   #1818
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I just called them,turns out the wire actually snapped and the sensor has to be replaced.. But as far as regearing goes is this something that necessary at this time. The jeep drives fine with the exception of loss of power in 6th. Just want to make sure it's not going to cause further issues down the road
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:08 AM   #1819
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Well, I got the lift installed (mostly) and I netted a solid 3" up front but only a bit over 1" out back on my Hard Rock.

The Jeep is darn near level, but I was hoping for a little bit more in the back. The rear bumpstop is really close to the axle pad as well.

I think I'll call Teraflex Monday and see what they say. I double checked the spring part #'s that are embossed on the springs and they are the correct ones. Is it because the HR came with 60 springs on it from the factory so it is a bit higher than a Sport (or Rubicon?)
I was wondering if you had any response from Teraflex.

Also, if you did the Rancho shocks and the Teraflex kit with the blocks, you lose about 1.5" or up-travel because the blocks are about 3" thick.

I cut mine in half after doing several measurements and calculations to make sure I wouldn't bottom out my shocks. If you have any questions, PM me.

In addition, I've documented my lift based on what I installed in order to get my rig where I wanted it. I believe I'm about 2.5-2.75" over stock with 3" springs in the front and 4" springs PLUS a .5" spacer in the rear. That is with a .5" rake, which I wanted to compensate for loading gear and/or a trailer.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:48 AM   #1820
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I just called them,turns out the wire actually snapped and the sensor has to be replaced.. But as far as regearing goes is this something that necessary at this time. The jeep drives fine with the exception of loss of power in 6th. Just want to make sure it's not going to cause further issues down the road
With a manual, you aren't going to hurt anything, it would just drive so much better with 4.56 gears.
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Old 09-20-2016, 08:32 AM
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I was wondering if you had any response from Teraflex. Also, if you did the Rancho shocks and the Teraflex kit with the blocks, you lose about 1.5" or up-travel because the blocks are about 3" thick. I cut mine in half after doing several measurements and calculations to make sure I wouldn't bottom out my shocks. If you have any questions, PM me. In addition, I've documented my lift based on what I installed in order to get my rig where I wanted it. I believe I'm about 2.5-2.75" over stock with 3" springs in the front and 4" springs PLUS a .5" spacer in the rear. That is with a .5" rake, which I wanted to compensate for loading gear and/or a trailer.
I had the same issue and ended up using spacers in the rear.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:39 AM   #1822
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They went up apparently.
The new brackets are more expensive, but they can still be had for less than $140 if you shop around.

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Easier to set and adjust with only 1 jam nut. Also cheaper.
Especially the rear bar, can be tightened while on the Jeep and crazy good value with quality bushings and a lifetime warranty.

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I had the same issue and ended up using spacers in the rear.
I think some people view spacers as a "problem" while others view them as a fine tuning tool... I fall in to the latter group.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:45 AM
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The new brackets are more expensive, but they can still be had for less than $140 if you shop around. Especially the rear bar, can be tightened while on the Jeep and crazy good value with quality bushings and a lifetime warranty. I think some people view spacers as a "problem" while others view them as a fine tuning tool... I fall in to the latter group.
Yes if you are fine tuning or compensating for lost height theres no issue. Whats nice about the TF's spacers is they have a coil guide built in so they wont fall out.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:53 AM   #1824
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:13 PM   #1825
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I was wondering if you had any response from Teraflex.

Also, if you did the Rancho shocks and the Teraflex kit with the blocks, you lose about 1.5" or up-travel because the blocks are about 3" thick.

I cut mine in half after doing several measurements and calculations to make sure I wouldn't bottom out my shocks. If you have any questions, PM me.

In addition, I've documented my lift based on what I installed in order to get my rig where I wanted it. I believe I'm about 2.5-2.75" over stock with 3" springs in the front and 4" springs PLUS a .5" spacer in the rear. That is with a .5" rake, which I wanted to compensate for loading gear and/or a trailer.
I called Teraflex and sent them a bunch of measurements and pictures. I'll let you know what I hear back from them. They were very helpful.

What spacers did you end up with for your bumpstops?

With my current setup (with the 2.75" teraflex front extensions and rear blocks) I have 1.75" of space between the axle pads and the bottom of the white oem bumpstops which would be 3.75" of up travel if the oem bumpstops compress fully into the teraflex extensions. These measurements are at ride height.
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:21 PM
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I called Teraflex and sent them a bunch of measurements and pictures. I'll let you know what I hear back from them. They were very helpful. What spacers did you end up with for your bumpstops? With my current setup (with the 2.75" teraflex front extensions and rear blocks) I have 1.75" of space between the axle pads and the bottom of the white oem bumpstops which would be 3.75" of up travel if the oem bumpstops compress fully into the teraflex extensions. These measurements are at ride height.
You need to measure from the metal lip of the cup NOT the foam stop. When actually measuring for bumpstop the foam bumper is removed because it compresses.
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Old 09-20-2016, 02:44 PM   #1827
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You need to measure from the metal lip of the cup NOT the foam stop. When actually measuring for bumpstop the foam bumper is removed because it compresses.
Correct.

Or to the bottom of the bumpstop extension in the front.

I have 3.75" between the axle pad and the bottom of the bumpstop extension in the front, and the metal cup in the rear. I am sure this will decrease as the springs settle.

I have almost 5" of up travel in the shocks still at ride height which is over 1" of shock uptravel not being utilitized based with my 3.75" of useable bumpstop space. Not sure if my 32.25" (285/70-17 KO2's) tires will fully stuff into the wheelwells if I decrease my bumpstops to utilize most of the available up travel in the shocks.
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Old 09-23-2016, 08:32 PM   #1828
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So i dropped my jeep off with a local jeeper to install my lift before i went out of town. Long story short, he installed the TF kit, rancho shocks, TF Monster trackbar, and exhaust spacer. He installed the rancho geo brackets but apparently ran into issues and took them back off (i just got home and have had limited contact, so not sure what issues he had). He finished up and took it for an alignment at tire discounters. Since I've already had an alignment, should i worry about putting the geo brackets on? How necessary are they? Any long term issues without these? If i install them now, I'm assuming I'll have to get another alignment, right?
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:09 PM
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So i dropped my jeep off with a local jeeper to install my lift before i went out of town. Long story short, he installed the TF kit, rancho shocks, TF Monster trackbar, and exhaust spacer. He installed the rancho geo brackets but apparently ran into issues and took them back off (i just got home and have had limited contact, so not sure what issues he had). He finished up and took it for an alignment at tire discounters. Since I've already had an alignment, should i worry about putting the geo brackets on? How necessary are they? Any long term issues without these? If i install them now, I'm assuming I'll have to get another alignment, right?
Curious what problems he had. Wonder if he tried installing them with jack stands supporting the frame (axles hanging) that would make it tougher.

You really did not need the alignment, not sure what they charged but centering the steering wheel is simple.
Caster is still not adjustable with brackets but many guys have it checked for peace of mind.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:41 PM   #1830
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Curious what problems he had. Wonder if he tried installing them with jack stands supporting the frame (axles hanging) that would make it tougher.

You really did not need the alignment, not sure what they charged but centering the steering wheel is simple.
Caster is still not adjustable with brackets but many guys have it checked for peace of mind.
I'll find out what issues he had. They charged $75 for the alignment. And like i said, this was done while i was out of town for work and had limited contact with him, so i wasn't fully aware of the situation.

So in your opinion, since this is your lift @kjeeper10 , would you worry about the brackets?

Caster on front is 3.2 and 3.3 per the tire discounters print out.

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