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Old 02-14-2019, 01:58 PM   #2641
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Thanks for your suggestions, GuzziMoto and Rancho!

Regarding the flaking powder coat of the coils, I'll get in touch with Teraflex.

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Old 02-14-2019, 02:00 PM   #2642
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Guzzi see below.





Quote:
Originally Posted by GuzziMoto View Post
I would think a softer boot that goes on from the other end would be the best option. The shock body is too "big" to neck down to the shock rod on a boot. Hope that makes sense. Or make the "T" removable. Trying to make the ease of install, easy.
That hard boot sucks. You are better off with no boot in my opinion. Boots are there to protect the shock rod from debris and with it open at the base debris doesn't gather.

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Old 02-14-2019, 02:04 PM   #2643
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True, Rancho, the T boots are open at the base and I don't have any debris in them.
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Old 02-14-2019, 03:14 PM   #2644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rancho View Post
Guzzi see below.
The ring at the top of the shock that the boot attaches to is as big or close to as big as the shock body. If it isn't quite big enough just make it a little bigger. You could install the rubber boot at the factory before you put the T bar in.
Or you could use a hard boot like OME and other shocks use.
You can do it however you like it, but the way it is now the boot rubs the shock body and that looks bad.
I got no dog in this fight. My current shocks don't do that.
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Old 02-14-2019, 03:47 PM   #2645
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Top of the shock boot that goes around the shock rod is 2", the bottom is slitted to accommodate the RS9000XL that is in many cases 2.75" in diameter.

Installing the boot at the factory adds another step in the production cost. That is not an easy addition to the production line, honestly.

We do like the suggestions though





Quote:
Originally Posted by GuzziMoto View Post
The ring at the top of the shock that the boot attaches to is as big or close to as big as the shock body. If it isn't quite big enough just make it a little bigger. You could install the rubber boot at the factory before you put the T bar in.
Or you could use a hard boot like OME and other shocks use.
You can do it however you like it, but the way it is now the boot rubs the shock body and that looks bad.
I got no dog in this fight. My current shocks don't do that.
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:19 PM   #2646
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I emailed the pictures of the flaking powder coat coils to Teraflex. They said the powder coat is not covered by warranty and I should apply of coat of Rustoleum.
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:56 PM   #2647
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I finally figured out that my Jeep probably had a Southern Truck Lifts 2.5" coil spring spacer leveling kit. Picture is attached and looks like the same parts as on a vendor web site for that kit. I installed the Teraflex 2.5" spring lift kit with the replacement springs and the axle side bracket. I have the Rancho 5000X shocks also. I am surprised to find that I actually lost height in the rear. I was at 7"/6.5" on the rear. Now I am at 6.5"/5.5" on the rear (L/R). My JKURX had the 68004460AA springs on the rear. My 35" tires were rubbing with the old lift. I'm being saved by the new bump stops but have maybe an inch between the bump stops now so almost no travel. Should I just put these honking metal spring spacers back on?
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Old 02-18-2019, 10:27 AM   #2648
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You can run spacers to get back any lost height.
Those springs are about as tall as JK / JKU springs get short of the Recon / 10A springs for the JKU. While I would expect less lift compared to a lower spring, I am surprised you lost height. How thick are those spacers?
Also, keep in mind that the bumpstops are really soft and will squish nearly flat. So, once you hit them you still have an inch or so of suspension.
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Old 02-18-2019, 01:47 PM   #2649
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Originally Posted by giganova View Post
I emailed the pictures of the flaking powder coat coils to Teraflex. They said the powder coat is not covered by warranty and I should apply of coat of Rustoleum.

Using one of the rubberized coatings in the rattle can may be a better coating than powder coating for something that flexes. I've used the bed coating stuff with great success.
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:11 PM   #2650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuzziMoto View Post
How thick are those spacers?
The front spacer (right side of picture) is 3". The rear is 2.5".

Here's a picture of the original Rubicon X/Hard Rock springs (dusty ones) compared to the new springs.
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Old 02-19-2019, 07:21 AM   #2651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonboTX View Post
The front spacer (right side of picture) is 3". The rear is 2.5".

Here's a picture of the original Rubicon X/Hard Rock springs (dusty ones) compared to the new springs.
Well, that would explain why you lost height, you replaced a 3" spacer and just about the tallest springs that come on a standard JKU with a 2.5" lift spring.
You could add some 1" spacers if you want, but you may find it drives better without them.
Another option is progressive springs, like MetalCloak, AEV, or Synergy. They carry weight better.
I don't think I would put those spacers back in, they are a bit tall. About the most I would consider would be 2" spacers, perhaps a set of leveling spacers. Like 2" up front and 1" in back, if you still have an issue with rake. Or 2" front and back. Or 1" all around.
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:21 PM   #2652
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I was prepared for maybe needing some spacers to help get the height to where I wanted before I bought the lift. Part of why I'm telling about my experience is for those who follow. It is hard to know what the specs are on any of these springs. I've read every post on here that I could find about spring lengths and how they worked with lifts. I never found anything that really answered the question. I asked the vendor if the kit springs were longer than the Rubicon X/Hard Rock/10A 68004460AA springs and was told that they were so I bought the kit. As you can see from the picture, they clearly aren't but when I had the Jeep torn apart I decided I might as well put the new springs on and see if somehow they work better. I agree that something was going to be different removing those huge spacers! I also have a bunch of stuff in the back of the Jeep but I had it loaded really heavily when I took it to Colorado twice and it was still higher than it is now. So, I guess I'll try some smaller spacers in the back or maybe I should just spend that money on some flat fenders, or both.
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:02 AM   #2653
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Originally Posted by RonboTX View Post
I asked the vendor if the kit springs were longer than the Rubicon X/Hard Rock/10A 68004460AA springs and was told that they were so I bought the kit.
Since several vendors regularly post helpful information to this thread, I want to point out that the vendor I'm talking about was not one of the ones commonly posting to this thread.
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:11 AM   #2654
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Hi, all. Awesome thread!

I’ve read through 80+ pages so far and have put together a kit based on the first post with some additions to it based on the “nice to have but not necessarily” list. I chose JKS for some of the additional parts because I originally looked at their J-Spec kit and decided I like their stuff (including their track bar). I was surprised that they’re actually less expensive than the TF options for the additional parts. Anyway . . .

My question is based on the fact that I’m starting with a 2018 Rubicon Recon, so I have the 10a bumpers. I’m adding the TF hinged tire carrier and adjustment kit so I can carry the 35” spare (going with either 315/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZs or KO2s and MT Classic III wheels). I’ll also add a Warn Zeon 10s at some point. I’m not going to swap out the 10a bumpers anytime soon and I don’t plan on adding additional armor (beyond what comes with the Rubicon) just yet, but with the additional weight from the stuff I already have or plan to add later, I read somewhere in the 80 page mark that Ken recommended going to the 3” springs for a rig with similar specs. Did I read that right? Should I be looking at the 3” springs instead of 2.5? If so, which ones? And are any changes recommended to my build plan below?

Thanks so much for your help!

My plan:

TeraFlex 2.5” without shocks
Rancho 9000XLs

Additional parts:

JKS HD adj front trackbar
JKS exhaust spacer
JKS J-Link fixed lower front control arms

Should I move up to 3” springs? If I should, should I make any other changes? Anything here that you wouldn’t recommend?

Thanks, again!!
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:55 AM   #2655
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Going to a 3" is just going to give you more room to compensate for the weight you are adding. I dont think you would dislike the 2.5" but the 3" will just give you more "room" so to speak.

The only other thing I would look at changing is going to a adjustable front lower arm. Just not a fan of the fixed.

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Old 03-15-2019, 11:34 AM   #2656
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It sounds like you already understand that since you are starting with a Recon you will see less of an increase in height with any given spring based lift. Spacer based lifts will still give you the advertised increase in height, but because your Recon has taller springs than most other versions of Jeep you will likely see an inch or so less increase in height from and given spring based lift compared to what that lift would deliver on a normal Jeep.
If you are wanting to run 35" tires I don't think you NEED the extra lift of a 3" lift. But the question id do you want the extra lift. I prefer the minimum lift to fit my tires. But it isn't my Jeep.
I bought a set of fixed JKS arms. They look sweet, but they were the wrong length and I ended up replacing them with TF Alpine arms. Adjustable arms are a better choice for what you are doing in my opinion. The only advantage to fixed arms is ease of install. You may want to consider Geometry brackets instead of arms. They will deliver a better, smoother, ride.
I am not surprised that JKS stuff is cheaper than TeraFlex stuff.
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:12 PM   #2657
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I will jump on the fixed length front lowers bandwagon here as well. If you do not plan on serious rock crawling or wheeling where every inch of clearance is needed, then go for the geo brackets. They give a much better surface street ride due to the new geometry created in the front suspension once installed. There are hundreds, maybe thousands, of JK owners on this forum running geo brackets and aren't hanging up when offroading.

If you are OCD about dialing in caster and front pinion, then go for adjustable arms to get it where you feel it should be for your rig. As far as the spring height goes, even though you are taller than the average bear now, 35s under a 2.5" spring lift is a great way to go. Some people like a more space around the wheel. They just like the look better. You can still do a 2.5" lift and get the room you want with the extra weight by going to a multi-rate or progressive rate coil such as the Rock Krawler springs. They are designed to net you nominal advertised height with a fully loaded rig. Anything less than that and you will achieve more height.

Have a blessed and prosperous day!

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Old 03-15-2019, 12:24 PM   #2658
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I wouldn't go with the JKS front trackbar if you also want to upgrade your front differential cover at some time. For example, the popular Poison Spyder diff cover is an interference fit with the JKS front trackbar. And, opinions are just that, but I've never regretted adjustable vs fixed control arms. With adjustability you can raise or lower your Jeep later without spending twice on parts.
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:36 PM   #2659
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I wouldn't go with the JKS front trackbar if you also want to upgrade your front differential cover at some time. For example, the popular Poison Spyder diff cover is an interference fit with the JKS front trackbar. And, opinions are just that, but I've never regretted adjustable vs fixed control arms. With adjustability you can raise or lower your Jeep later without spending twice on parts.
The Yeti TB from Steer Smarts is a better product anyway. Yes, try not to duplicate parts purchases. Build with future needs already planned for.
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Old 03-21-2019, 12:22 AM   #2660
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Looking for some advice. I have a 2015 Sahara with 2inch mopar lift, Fox shocks , Fox ATS, smittybilt bumpers, winch, N-fab steps and tire carrier with 35 toyos. I also installed the AEV geo brackets. My Jeep is a daily driver and I love the way it drives. I have 2 questions that basically center around making my Jeep drive better on he highway

1) I was considering replacing the front and rear track bar & tie rod and drag link with the Tear Flex Hd parts.
If I replaced these items would it improve the way my Jeep drives on the highway?

And or
2) would it be better to spend my money on adjustable control arms to replace the geo brackets.

Don’t get me wrong I love the way my Jeep drives but I was curious if either one of these options would make my Jeep drive better on the highway and which of these items would I get more bang for the buck if I choose to install 1 or 2
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Old 03-21-2019, 07:26 AM   #2661
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Originally Posted by YTJ2004 View Post
Looking for some advice. I have a 2015 Sahara with 2inch mopar lift, Fox shocks , Fox ATS, smittybilt bumpers, winch, N-fab steps and tire carrier with 35 toyos. I also installed the AEV geo brackets. My Jeep is a daily driver and I love the way it drives. I have 2 questions that basically center around making my Jeep drive better on he highway

1) I was considering replacing the front and rear track bar & tie rod and drag link with the Tear Flex Hd parts.
If I replaced these items would it improve the way my Jeep drives on the highway?

And or
2) would it be better to spend my money on adjustable control arms to replace the geo brackets.

Don’t get me wrong I love the way my Jeep drives but I was curious if either one of these options would make my Jeep drive better on the highway and which of these items would I get more bang for the buck if I choose to install 1 or 2
If you like the way your Jeep drives now, I definitely would not replace the geometry brackets with anything. They are a large part of why your Jeep drives the way it does. The only thing you would likely gain with adjustable arms is slightly better ground clearance. You would gain the ability to adjust your caster, but if it already drives great I don't see that as an advantage.
As to replacing the track bars with adjustable versions, doing so will allow you to better center the axles side to side. And replacing them with stronger versions will offer a small improvement in how it drives, but you likely would not be able to tell. The bigger advantage to stronger versions of track bars, as well as drag links and tie rods, is that they are stronger and will hold up to abuse better. That abuse is mostly what you do to it off road, not so much on road. Do you take it off road? If you do, option 1 could be a good idea. But you don't need to do all of them at once. I would start with the track bars.
Another mod that can improve the way your Jeep drives is a Steer Smart Attenuator. It smooths out the steering and adds a little heft / weight to the steering. Most seem really happy with them, but a few people don't like them. The only downsides to them are they do add a potential failure point in your steering and that is more common it seems with the bigger version than the smaller version.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:02 AM   #2662
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Originally Posted by YTJ2004 View Post
Looking for some advice. I have a 2015 Sahara with 2inch mopar lift, Fox shocks , Fox ATS, smittybilt bumpers, winch, N-fab steps and tire carrier with 35 toyos. I also installed the AEV geo brackets. My Jeep is a daily driver and I love the way it drives. I have 2 questions that basically center around making my Jeep drive better on he highway

1) I was considering replacing the front and rear track bar & tie rod and drag link with the Tear Flex Hd parts.
If I replaced these items would it improve the way my Jeep drives on the highway?

And or
2) would it be better to spend my money on adjustable control arms to replace the geo brackets.

Don’t get me wrong I love the way my Jeep drives but I was curious if either one of these options would make my Jeep drive better on the highway and which of these items would I get more bang for the buck if I choose to install 1 or 2
I guess the question is: What about the highway driving of your Jeep don't you like or want to improve? Knowing this would help everyone steer you in the right direction as to potential improvements. Some additional questions:

How many miles do you have on it?
What are the roads like you drive daily?
Do you frequently encounter high head or cross winds?
What PSI do you run your tires at?
What are your current caster settings?
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Old 03-27-2019, 03:32 PM   #2663
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Update on the coils:

The powder coating is flaking off on all four coils and are rusting -- after 1 1/2 years! Teraflex says this is not covered by their warranty. I am trying to get rid of the flakes/rust with a wire brush and sand paper, then applying Locktite Rust Neutralizer and rattle can spray painting them ... tons of work! But I wonder how that's gonna hold up.

Is it time to buy better coils?
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Old 04-24-2019, 04:05 AM   #2664
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This thread is huge and I have tried to go through as much as I can but my damned phone locks up. My wife’s has a14 jku with the tf leveling kit 315/70’s and flat fenders.
Just put a trektop on it and with the hardtop off has to much rake for me. Figure now is a good time to had a 2.5” lift and get rid of the pucks. The questions I have about this setup package is does it get rid of the factory rake and will I be able to add bumpers with out it sagging. I intend to add some bumpers in a few months but I don’t want to spend the money to have the same rake and not a full 2.5” lift


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Old 04-24-2019, 07:47 AM   #2665
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Originally Posted by mxracer394 View Post
This thread is huge and I have tried to go through as much as I can but my damned phone locks up. My wife’s has a14 jku with the tf leveling kit 315/70’s and flat fenders.
Just put a trektop on it and with the hardtop off has to much rake for me. Figure now is a good time to had a 2.5” lift and get rid of the pucks. The questions I have about this setup package is does it get rid of the factory rake and will I be able to add bumpers with out it sagging. I intend to add some bumpers in a few months but I don’t want to spend the money to have the same rake and not a full 2.5” lift


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It does get rid of the factory rake. and if yours still has a little rake due to a heavy front bumper or whatever you can simply add a spacer up front to correct for the weight. You may simply need to add the 1" spacers you already have. But the straight rate coils TF uses are not as good at carrying extra weight as progressive springs from other vendors are. If you are really worried about weight and sagging you may want to run a progressive spring lift. But the ride will be stiffer if you don't have the weight.
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Old 04-24-2019, 09:28 AM   #2666
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thanks so much - this is exactly what I was looking for
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Old 04-24-2019, 10:16 AM   #2667
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Originally Posted by mxracer394 View Post
This thread is huge and I have tried to go through as much as I can but my damned phone locks up. My wife’s has a14 jku with the tf leveling kit 315/70’s and flat fenders.
Just put a trektop on it and with the hardtop off has to much rake for me. Figure now is a good time to had a 2.5” lift and get rid of the pucks. The questions I have about this setup package is does it get rid of the factory rake and will I be able to add bumpers with out it sagging. I intend to add some bumpers in a few months but I don’t want to spend the money to have the same rake and not a full 2.5” lift


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thanks so much - this is exactly what I was looking for
And if we can help, feel free to PM, email, or call us at anytime! We would be more than happy to help out any way we can!

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Old 05-18-2019, 07:04 PM   #2668
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I'm hoping that someone can offer a quick bit of information and save me some trouble. I have a '16 JKUR that I installed a Terraflex 2.5" lift last fall. If I want to run 285/75R17's (basically 34's) on the stock rims, will I need wheel spacers to avoid rubbing?
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:46 AM   #2669
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I'm hoping that someone can offer a quick bit of information and save me some trouble. I have a '16 JKUR that I installed a Terraflex 2.5" lift last fall. If I want to run 285/75R17's (basically 34's) on the stock rims, will I need wheel spacers to avoid rubbing?
Yes! You can get away with 1.25" spacers. However, if you ever want to go with a wider tire on the factory rims, you should opt for 1.5" or even 1.75" to get you out to the coveted 4.5" BS target most mfgs recommend.
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Old 05-19-2019, 06:13 AM   #2670
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I'm hoping that someone can offer a quick bit of information and save me some trouble. I have a '16 JKUR that I installed a Terraflex 2.5" lift last fall. If I want to run 285/75R17's (basically 34's) on the stock rims, will I need wheel spacers to avoid rubbing?

I'm running the same lift, and I also run TF's 1.25" spacers. I'm going to BFG's 34x10.50 tires soon too. I would say yes run the spacers. I prefer pizza cutters, and like my tires under the flares. With this lift and stock wheels, I'm surprised you are not rubbing the rear sway bar link on now.

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