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Old 12-31-2017, 06:23 PM
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Need help: JKUR 35s going to 37s

I'm working on putting together a list of things to go from 35s to 37s on my JKU, and need some help from people who have gone this route. I daily drive my Jeep, so thats to be kept in mind. This is my current setup on 35s:

2.5 rock krawler coils, synergy fixed lower front control arms, Rancho 5000x 30/31s, teraflex monster track bar, superlift rear track bar, teraflex rear track bar bracket, nemesis industries flat fenders, genright front bumper, and vks sliders teraflex rear tire carrier.

I just purchased the following for myself for Christmas: Teraflax Tera44 front axle with 4.88 gearing, 1/2 tube thickness, factory locker, Tera hd ball joints and the housing is for 4+ lift so it has built in caster etc. also got teraflex larger front rotors with brackets for the front brakes. Also have a new Adams front drive shaft Ive had sitting in the garage for two years that needs to go in, as I just shredded my front ds boot last trip when I got high centered.

So obviously I need to re gear out back. From there I can start throwing money everywhere... Steering, axle shafts,etc. etc. will I need more lift? Rear control arms to stretch the back a little? Rear bumper replacement? Trimming?

Any and all help would be appreciated.

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Old 12-31-2017, 07:23 PM   #2
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Rear stretch and factory bumper trim or wheel well pinch seam will be in order. You may also need wheel spacers to get your BS out to 3.5-4 to prevent wheel rub at full lock.


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Old 12-31-2017, 07:54 PM
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Rear stretch and factory bumper trim or wheel well pinch seam will be in order. You may also need wheel spacers to get your BS out to 3.5-4 to prevent wheel rub at full lock.


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Thanks. Yeah just looking at the jeep I see a stretch and/or trim is in order out back. Kind of like the newer teraflex alpine arms and wondering if I should/need to put together a whole new lift and go up to 3.5 coils, or if Im ok at 2.5. I definitely need to at least pull the rear bumper cover as that will hit and Ill have to check and possibly adjust bump stops.
I plan on buying new beadlock wheels in 3.5 or 4 inch backspacing when I get the 37s. Trying to figure out if I want to go trail ready, raceline, or maybe atx chamber pro IIs.

Also thinking I should put in some rear shafts like revolution when I re gear..
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:29 AM   #4
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I like the extra belly clearance, but you don't have to replace the springs. You could just put 1" coil spacers all around, you have no risk of coil bind based on the bump stops you need and the RK's have a great free length. You can try 2" bumps, but you might need 3".


You might also want adjustable front uppers to keep caster at a reasonable number.
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Old 01-01-2018, 11:00 AM   #5
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I'm running a 2.5" with 37's. You will need to recenter the rear axle. When we flexed it out the tire didn't hit the pinch seams but was very close so I went ahead and had them trimmed.

I also have Racelines with pitbull tires and they just touch the front lower controls arms. I air down to 6psi, they may not hit at 10psi.

I'm also still running my stock bumpers.

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Old 01-01-2018, 01:05 PM   #6
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I've been running 37's over a year. I do have a 3.5" lift but didn't have to do any trimming. I have the AEV rear bumper that curves around back towards the rear tire. When a rear is tucked it will rub a bit on the bumper but not enough to hurt anything. All of this will change in the next couple of months though as I'm going to 40's.
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:35 PM
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Thanks for all the comments guys. With regard to the rear stretch, do I need both rear upper and lower arms or just lowers? Front back to stock since the axle has built in caster?
Strengthening wise, is there anything in the steering I should update while I'm doing the axle swap? Was looking at steer smarts and Currie steering upgrades yesterday. Do I keep things in their stock location or go for a flip at my height? I seem to be at the threshold.
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Old 01-02-2018, 01:45 PM   #8
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I'm running uppers and lowers front and rear if that helps.
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Old 01-02-2018, 02:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBOKEV View Post
Thanks for all the comments guys. With regard to the rear stretch, do I need both rear upper and lower arms or just lowers? Front back to stock since the axle has built in caster?
Strengthening wise, is there anything in the steering I should update while I'm doing the axle swap? Was looking at steer smarts and Currie steering upgrades yesterday. Do I keep things in their stock location or go for a flip at my height? I seem to be at the threshold.
You must do both in the rear. The lowers give you wheelbase and the uppers give you pinion angle. Depending on how much wheelbase you add, you might want to look at adjustable spring perches for the rear.

In the front, you could certainly go back to stock lengths... I suggested front uppers so you could tune it. As for steering, you will be on the bubble for a flip. Hard to tell until you drive it, to know if needed.
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Old 01-04-2018, 03:04 AM
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You must do both in the rear. The lowers give you wheelbase and the uppers give you pinion angle. Depending on how much wheelbase you add, you might want to look at adjustable spring perches for the rear.

In the front, you could certainly go back to stock lengths... I suggested front uppers so you could tune it. As for steering, you will be on the bubble for a flip. Hard to tell until you drive it, to know if needed.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah looks like I finally will be going to adjustable arms.
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Old 01-18-2018, 02:03 AM
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Ordered Rancho knuckles and new unit bearings tonight. Just need axle shafts to finish out the new Tera R44.

So the current plan:
Going to get some 1 inch budget boost spacers, revolution axle shafts front and rear, steer smarts extreme tie rod and drag link, and either Synergy or Metalcloak adjustable control arms. Looking to get rid of the stock rear bumper and get something with clearance. Anything else Im forgetting about?

I have had synergy fixed front lowers for 30k+ miles, so Im going to pull an arm and inspect the joints this weekend. Need to inspect shocks this weekend also.. getting cupping on the inside front drivers, and I can see where the shock had taken the paint off of the frame from contact during flex. Im running a long front shock so I probably should have been running shock relocation brackets.
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Old 01-20-2018, 07:38 PM
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I ordered us made revolution 4340 rear chromoly axle shafts this morning. One step closer!

Im going to need to do a flip due to the Ranch knuckles and my Tera44 has the larger track bar bracket installed.. that means I need to add some height to my rock krawler 2.5 springs. Im currently debating between the synergy 3/4 inch or Tera 1 inch. Want to go high enough for the steering kit but not too crazy tall, as a have the nemesis flat fenders.

Are front axle shafts necessary for me to run with 37s or can I continue to run my oem front Rubicon shafts?

Also found out I have a bad front shock which is causing bad inside cupping on my front driver tire(s).. so Im looking at either Tera falcon 3.2s or Tera tuned fox 2.5s. Anyone have any feedback on either or both of these? Ugh, more money.

This move up to 37 is getting expensive fast. Thank god my wife hasnt seen the excel spreadsheet Jeep wishlist. I need to trim down the wish list to items I need and not just want.
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Old 01-20-2018, 08:56 PM   #13
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I also have a terra44. I put on steersmarts yetiXD and yeti tie rod on it. It drives incredibly good. Those were some upgrades I added going to 37s.
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Old 01-20-2018, 10:20 PM
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I also have a terra44. I put on steersmarts yetiXD and yeti tie rod on it. It drives incredibly good. Those were some upgrades I added going to 37s.
Im looking at the steer smarts XD tie rod to replace my oem..
How much lift are you running and did you do a drag link flip?
Are you running the tera44 (R44) for 4 plus with the pinion added?
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Old 01-20-2018, 11:35 PM   #15
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I have MC 3.5 Gamechanger with OME shocks, Nemesis fenders and 37 Ridge Grapplers. My Teraflex 44 does indeed have the caster built into it and I do have the Yeti Draglink top mounted. Drives real, real nice and wheels good too!!!
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Old 01-20-2018, 11:46 PM   #16
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Photo for you to see fenders and 37s
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Old 01-21-2018, 12:15 AM
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I have MC 3.5 Gamechanger with OME shocks, Nemesis fenders and 37 Ridge Grapplers. My Teraflex 44 does indeed have the caster built into it and I do have the Yeti Draglink top mounted. Drives real, real nice and wheels good too!!!
Very nice Jeep, Ill defin be looking at the steer smarts steering. How much bump stop are you running if you dont mind me asking and what kind of cutting did you have to do? I have nemesis fenders also. Thanks for your help and feedback.
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Old 01-21-2018, 01:53 AM   #18
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3 bump in front (for the high steer) and 2 in the rear. No trimming yet. Just went to 2 in the rear, so maybe just a little trimming off the rear pinch.
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:20 AM
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3 bump in front (for the high steer) and 2 in the rear. No trimming yet. Just went to 2 in the rear, so maybe just a little trimming off the rear pinch.
Thanks for the info. Yeah I was thinking the rear pinch seam that really extends below the nemesis fender outline in the back would be a problem, especially with adjustable arms to push the rear tire back a half inch or so. Did you install your arms with Metalcloak set 3.5 lengths? Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 01-21-2018, 11:12 AM   #20
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With the stock axle they were preset lengths. Not sure with the Teraflex since I had that installed by a shop. I can say that with the extra caster the drive angle looks great. For the rear pre set lenthgs,
the adjusted slightly because spring hitting rear track bar.
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:31 PM
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With the stock axle they were preset lengths. Not sure with the Teraflex since I had that installed by a shop. I can say that with the extra caster the drive angle looks great. For the rear pre set lenthgs,
the adjusted slightly because spring hitting rear track bar.
Thanks for the info. I think Ill give teraflex a call and see if they can help me with starting front control arm lengths, then get it aligned after install.
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Old 05-20-2018, 02:37 AM
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Got my 37’s on now with quite a lot of other supporting upgrades.

Looking to upgrade my steering for the bigger tires. I have all Steer Smarts HD steering and I’m looking at PSC’s new steering box. What Re people running? Do I need to upgrade the steering pump or add a cooler? Was quoted this box by a local shop and they included a cooler, pump, line, and also the billet ported box. I’ve spent so much on this thing in the past few months, trying to only get what I need.
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Old 05-20-2018, 09:24 AM   #23
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Need help: JKUR 35s going to 37s

When I installed the PSC XDII I called PSC and they stated the cooler was not needed. The pump is only needed if the OEM pump is nearing the end of its life (mine was not). The supply side line is a good idea though. Been running it and wheeling in that way for around 9 months now and works fine. This mod is really nice with my 35s and turning with front lockers engaged is very easy.

PSC recommended the AC Delco power steering fluid.
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Old 05-20-2018, 09:24 AM   #24
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If you're really going to off-road, bite the bullet and get the PSC hydro assist. It's the best mod I've done to my jeep. I'm running their cooler too. I removed my EVO drag link flip bracket and had a synergy raised track bar bracket welded on the axle. That includes the tabs to mount the ram to. The rest is bolt on.



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Old 05-20-2018, 10:37 AM   #25
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If you're really going to off-road, bite the bullet and get the PSC hydro assist. It's the best mod I've done to my jeep. I'm running their cooler too. I removed my EVO drag link flip bracket and had a synergy raised track bar bracket welded on the axle. That includes the tabs to mount the ram to. The rest is bolt on.



Is it me or is your TR bent like a mofo?
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:59 AM   #26
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37s and front locker = hydroassist. Don't look back.
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:59 AM   #27
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Is it me or is your TR bent like a mofo?
Yikes! Looks bent to me too.
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:45 PM
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How does hydro assist feel on a dd jku?
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Old 05-20-2018, 08:04 PM   #29
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Not bent, the Currie tie rod has a round bend around the pumpkin. The clamp happens to land inside the bend. I thought it wouldn’t work but because of the bend, but the clamp can’t slide, so win.

Works perfectly on my daily driver. Drove it from Miami to Moab and back too. It’s a little sensitive to input but you get used it. Also it’ll bang hard into the steering stops so be careful at full crank.
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Old 05-20-2018, 09:38 PM   #30
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How does hydro assist feel on a dd jku?
My Jeep is my DD. You get used to the feel very quickly and then dont even notice it's there.

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