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Old 01-20-2014, 10:17 AM
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new jk problem!!!flushing toilet under the dash! Xd

hi guys i'm writing my first post since i bought my new jeep jk wrangler rubicon 2014,i'm really happy about it but with less than 300 miles i already found a problem! when i start the car every morning i hear some flushing water under the dash!!! now i read a lot of people having this problem but i don't really understand if it's a real bad problem plus a lot of people is telling that the problem can be..... a lot of things!!! i know i have the warranty but i know also that the dealerships doesn't work very well!!! anyone can help me how i can fix this problem with some easy fix or i have to take it to the dealer???

thank you in advance

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Old 01-20-2014, 11:02 AM   #2
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Check this out. Not a new problem to JK, just your turn.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/fy...er-186603.html

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Old 01-20-2014, 11:21 AM   #3
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It's not really a problem. Ignore it.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:44 AM
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well for what says NUKE83 this is what i've found:


Hey guys. Im new here to the forum but I work at a chrysler dealership as a tech and we have been seeing some of these issues. Flushing noise on start up or while driving, and a difference in heat temperature at the vents. Typically you will get a 30 degree drop from the passenger side vent to the driver side. The fix for these is replacing the heater core.
When the 3.6l engine was being built, chrysler says some casting sand did not get cleaned out of the engine and ends up in the heater core causing it to semi plug up. THe flushing noise you are hearing is from half the heater core being drained after engine has cooled down and when you start, the water pump makes enough pressure to slowly fill the heater core up.
Possible long term issues that can occur is overheating on a hot summer day. I havent seen one yet that was over heating but anything can happen. Also, if you do take our vehicle in and it comes out to be the heater core, dont get in a hurry for your vehicle back. The HVAC houseing is bolted to the dash so the entire dash has to be pulled out and placed on the bench in order to replace. So be looking at one to two day repair. Hope this helps!


so at this point i live in miami florida here is always summer!!! so it can become a really serious problem!!! don't you think??
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:00 PM   #5
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My 08JK had the gurgling sound behind my dash intermittently the first 3 years I owned it. Sometimes it was there, sometimes not.

I read a ton of the various notices, and can only speculate there must be more than ONE cause for such a circumstance. Basically I simply got used to it and ignored it.

At an oil change about 4 months ago, I mentioned it to my mechanic. He investigated, did a couple secret mechanic things, then added some coolant while pumping the top radiator return hose, to the point where it didn't gurgle when squeezing.

Fixed the sound, haven't heard it in over 5000 miles now.

Oddly, the coolant level never *seemed* to be low. He added about 1/3 gallon. All is well.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:12 PM   #6
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My 08JK had the gurgling sound behind my dash intermittently the first 3 years I owned it. Sometimes it was there, sometimes not. I read a ton of the various notices, and can only speculate there must be more than ONE cause for such a circumstance. Basically I simply got used to it and ignored it. At an oil change about 4 months ago, I mentioned it to my mechanic. He investigated, did a couple secret mechanic things, then added some coolant while pumping the top radiator return hose, to the point where it didn't gurgle when squeezing. Fixed the sound, haven't heard it in over 5000 miles now. Oddly, the coolant level never *seemed* to be low. He added about 1/3 gallon. All is well.
SAME FOR ME^^^ all better but took three separate flushes once my fault bc I had to go and didn't have time for a proper cool down and re-bleed
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:16 PM   #7
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well for what says NUKE83 this is what i've found:


Hey guys. Im new here to the forum but I work at a chrysler dealership as a tech and we have been seeing some of these issues. Flushing noise on start up or while driving, and a difference in heat temperature at the vents. Typically you will get a 30 degree drop from the passenger side vent to the driver side. The fix for these is replacing the heater core.
When the 3.6l engine was being built, chrysler says some casting sand did not get cleaned out of the engine and ends up in the heater core causing it to semi plug up. THe flushing noise you are hearing is from half the heater core being drained after engine has cooled down and when you start, the water pump makes enough pressure to slowly fill the heater core up.
Possible long term issues that can occur is overheating on a hot summer day. I havent seen one yet that was over heating but anything can happen. Also, if you do take our vehicle in and it comes out to be the heater core, dont get in a hurry for your vehicle back. The HVAC houseing is bolted to the dash so the entire dash has to be pulled out and placed on the bench in order to replace. So be looking at one to two day repair. Hope this helps!


so at this point i live in miami florida here is always summer!!! so it can become a really serious problem!!! don't you think??
I'd take her back.

Is the casting sand still an issue in the 2014's? This has been going on for a few years now. Do they build and assemble that many engines at once that they have such a large supply of older engines? I would hope not.

Would a very early flush of the cooling system possibly eliminate the problem of the heater core plugging up? I'd ask if you bring it in.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:39 PM   #8
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I remember in the good ole CJ days you didn't have to worry about such things. Road noise was so loud you could barely hear the AM radio, and you were just thankful that the heater worked.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:31 PM
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I remember in the good ole CJ days you didn't have to worry about such things. Road noise was so loud you could barely hear the AM radio, and you were just thankful that the heater worked.

lol!!! i'm missing that times!!!
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:58 PM   #10
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I just did the squeeze the upper hose and bleed thing I read here, mine started gurgling around 1000 miles. I'm at 7000 now and never heard it again after that.

When it was making the sound there was no temp difference in the vents, just would make the noise for the first 5-10 minutes when cold.
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Old 01-20-2014, 02:32 PM   #11
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had this happened after a water bump change, check the cooler in your radiator and make sure its to the top.. I squeezed the cooler in the cap multiple times and the issue went away, this could be minor because you have air in the system or major because you have heater core issue.. check for a difference between driver and passenger vents when you have the heat on to tell if this heater core issue or not.
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Old 01-20-2014, 02:59 PM   #12
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I noticed it as well when I was driving home the day I bought it. I didn't really worry about it since it's not the first time I've heard it. My companies Astro van made the same sound all the way to 150,000 miles. The only problem it had was a transmission issue but everything else ran strong still.

BTW, I don't notice it in my Jeep now. It currently has 810 miles on it. 2014 JKUR
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:45 PM   #13
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I just did the squeeze the upper hose and bleed thing I read here, mine started gurgling around 1000 miles. I'm at 7000 now and never heard it again after that.
Did you squeeze the hose with the radiator cap on or off? Thanks!
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:29 PM   #14
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Did you squeeze the hose with the radiator cap on or off? Thanks!
Cap was off after it was sitting a few hours, have to do it kind of slow so you dont push the coolant out of the radiator when squeezing. I also pulled the front on ramps to make sure the rad cap was the highest point on the cooling system, not sure if that was really necessary but figured it couldnt hurt.

I honestly didnt think it was going to work but it did..
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:43 PM   #15
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I remember in the good ole CJ days you didn't have to worry about such things. Road noise was so loud you could barely hear the AM radio, and you were just thankful that the heater worked.
The 1945 CJ2 I started Jeeping with, didn't have a radio.
Or a gas gauge.

What was claimed to be 'a heater' was a small box way under the dash, the only way to tell it's status was to stick you hand down in front of the fan. Once I missed & got my thumb severely wacked....fortunately the blade was so blunt and turning so slow all it did was resemble and hammer & thumb "Oh dammit" moment. The 'heater core' never did or was.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:49 PM   #16
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Cap was off after it was sitting a few hours, have to do it kind of slow so you dont push the coolant out of the radiator when squeezing. I also pulled the front on ramps to make sure the rad cap was the highest point on the cooling system, not sure if that was really necessary but figured it couldnt hurt.

I honestly didnt think it was going to work but it did..

Thanks! It sounds like it worked to me. I wonder if the casting sand is history in the 2014's or if it isn't sand at all and some kind of by-product of this new coolant they're using.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:54 PM   #17
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Thanks! It sounds like it worked to me. I wonder if the casting sand is history in the 2014's or if it isn't sand at all and some kind of by-product of this new coolant they're using.
This is what I was wondering if this high mileage antifreeze is doing something crazy and crap is settling out of it.

I don't remember ever hearing these issues with the old green antifreeze. Any thoughts on this?
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:18 PM   #18
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This is what I was wondering if this high mileage antifreeze is doing something crazy and crap is settling out of it.

I don't remember ever hearing these issues with the old green antifreeze. Any thoughts on this?
Honestly I think it is the problem. I can't for the life of me believe that Chrysler can't properly clean casting sand up. I wonder if there is a viable alternative to use once the system is completely flushed and purged of the original coolant? So what if it only lasts 50,000 miles instead of 150,000 miles. Amsoil makes an anti-freeze that's compatible IIRC, and lasts 250,000 miles. It is certainly something worth looking into for anyone with a new 3.6L Wrangler, before the muck wrecks the heater core, and oil cooler. JMO
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:02 AM   #19
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I had this same problem after the head was replaced. The tech left the coolant bleeder valve open. If you have gurgling when its cold then you have air in the system. Just turn the jeep on with the coolant bleeder valve open. Wait for it to fully warm up (turn on the heat full blast) then while the Jeep is still running, close the bleeder valve and your problem should be solved.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:29 AM   #20
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Mine did this for about the first 300 miles. It has since stopped (i'm now at 1500). I was assuming it was just air working its way out of the system

I was paranoid about casting sand at first, but I figured with 2014s they should have it together by now. Has anyone has casting sand issue with a 2014 yet?
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:57 PM   #21
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well for what says NUKE83 this is what i've found:


Hey guys. Im new here to the forum but I work at a chrysler dealership as a tech and we have been seeing some of these issues. Flushing noise on start up or while driving, and a difference in heat temperature at the vents. Typically you will get a 30 degree drop from the passenger side vent to the driver side. The fix for these is replacing the heater core.
When the 3.6l engine was being built, chrysler says some casting sand did not get cleaned out of the engine and ends up in the heater core causing it to semi plug up. THe flushing noise you are hearing is from half the heater core being drained after engine has cooled down and when you start, the water pump makes enough pressure to slowly fill the heater core up.
Possible long term issues that can occur is overheating on a hot summer day. I havent seen one yet that was over heating but anything can happen. Also, if you do take our vehicle in and it comes out to be the heater core, dont get in a hurry for your vehicle back. The HVAC houseing is bolted to the dash so the entire dash has to be pulled out and placed on the bench in order to replace. So be looking at one to two day repair. Hope this helps!


so at this point i live in miami florida here is always summer!!! so it can become a really serious problem!!! don't you think??
im right in broward, and i just picked my jeep up about 2 months ago. i also from time to time hear that sound, not as of recently though... i really don't see so much concern with, considering there is a thread with about 19 or so pages of rants and compliants.
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:04 PM   #22
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Ok I did not see this so I will post it. The heater core (which is behind the dash) sits higher than the radiator. At the factory they do not vacuum fill the radiator ...they just fill the radiator and over flow bottle. So the rushing water sound is the heater core filling up, air is trapped as that is the highest point. Your system needs to be burped to get most of the air out. Then over time the rest will come out. Very old problem


And yes casting sand still an issue.


A way to tell if your heater core is good is to turn on the heat, the temperature of the air should be the same on all vents. If the left or right side is hotter than the other side, you have a blocked or bad heater core. Mind you it's not the velocity of the air it's the temperature of the air...
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:53 PM   #23
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:36 PM
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Guys one question! If i go to the dealer they know what to do? I mean the have a tsb? A procedure to follow or something like that?

Let me know thanks
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:35 PM
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Any?
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:25 PM   #26
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Guys one question! If i go to the dealer they know what to do? I mean the have a tsb? A procedure to follow or something like that? Let me know thanks
They know
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:11 AM   #27
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Yup burp the jeep..
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:39 AM   #28
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Yup burp the jeep..
That's only half, you have to top off coolant too. Dealers are well aware of the issue. If not, find one that is
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:56 AM   #29
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That is the burping process. Special funnel fill with coolant turn on engine....watch it bubble make a mess. Turn off engine let cool for 30min ...rinse and repeat till all air bubbles are out. Fill over flow tank. Drive for 5000 miles filing overflow when it gets low. When burping its best to be at a 25% incline up for best results.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:05 AM   #30
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Guys one question! If i go to the dealer they know what to do? I mean the have a tsb? A procedure to follow or something like that?

Let me know thanks

so i havent really been keeping up with this thread, but is there a recall or TSB for the 2014 jk and jku ? i haven't received anything via chrysler or the dealership i purchased mine from as of yet.

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