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Old 03-21-2015, 12:03 PM
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Oil leaks and New JK - WHATS UP WITH THIS ?

Guys

spent hours reading this horror story about an un fixable oil leak / filler/ cooler housing. Seems like this is just the way it is...
Does anyone know the straight poop on this other then Jeeps owners falling into deep depression ?

I have a 2015 JK and from what I read - just expect an oil leak that will never be fixed ( for good ) and our engine leaking oil and failing at anytime so dont even think about taking a long trip..
So its just take this new vehicle and put in in the garage and look at it..???

The THREAD about the MAJOR issue was so depressing I feel like taking my brand new Jeep and returning it..

Does anyone have any good news or recall or upgraded part..

Should we let the dealer change our oil as the filler housing is so bad that one wrong move and its over..

GEE WIZ what a sad story

Some one tell me it isnt that bleak

P Scott

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Old 03-21-2015, 01:09 PM   #2
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It's a problem don't get me wrong but I think it was blown a bit out of proportion. I also thing the DIY'er who takes the time to properly remove and install the cartridge filter and not gorilla tighten it down will be fine. When removing the oil filter, I used a filter wrench attached to an extension and socket wrench and was able to hold the housing so all the torque was on the cap. A strap wrench would probably work too. Do the same thing when you tighten it down, and don't over tighten it. IIRC it is torqued to 22 ft. lbs.

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Old 03-21-2015, 01:36 PM
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Thanks - what a cruddy design... just wondering if its better to let dealer do it or do it myself. I heard the dealer screwing them up to..AMAZING

but thanks
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:44 PM   #4
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Thanks - what a cruddy design... just wondering if its better to let dealer do it or do it myself. I heard the dealer screwing them up to..AMAZING

but thanks

Honestly I'd prefer not to have the dealer touch anything I own. Oil changes are not something a good tech is going to be assigned to. Oil changes are a loss leader and they try and get them in and out fast if there's no other service being done. I do my own work, let the oil drain long enough, and make sure everything is tightened the right way. Then I use a quality oil and filter, not something from a bulk drum. The last time a dealer changed my oil was to replace an oil pan gasket under warranty. When I went to change the oil after that I cursed the guy who did the job for over tightening the drain plug, and oil filter to the point that I had to poke a hole through it with a screw driver to get it off. That was after exhausting all other options. No thanks to the dealer changing my oil after that fiasco.
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:54 PM   #5
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I heard the dealer screwing them up to..AMAZING
There is some speculation that some of them were screwed up during final assembly at the factory.

IMO the people who over tighten the caps and break the oil cooler housing are the same dumba$$es that would break a spark plug off thinking "tighter is better".
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Old 03-21-2015, 01:54 PM
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Thanks - Im a retired mechanic so Im sure I could swing the oil change.. just thought it was good to have a record of them doing it.. but your right, the bottom of the Tech pool does the oil changes...Think I will do it myself...
thanks again
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Old 03-21-2015, 02:34 PM   #7
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Think I will do it myself...
Good decision.

I also like the suggestion of holding the housing while loosening & tightening the cap. I'm getting ready to do my 2nd oil change and I'm going to try this.

FYI, The spec is 18 ft-lbs on the cap.
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:49 PM   #8
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I posted this in another thread but it's worth repeating for perspective.

I get a company car as do all of us field reps and in the company there are something over 700 Chrysler vehicles. In our fleet there's no history of oil leaks or major problems with these vehicles (I called the fleet service department) which are all Pentastar powered. The 2012's experienced a few head gasket failures but that was well documented and also was solved.

We all put pretty hard miles on our cars and in the two years I typically have one, I'll easily have 95,000 miles on it when it's replaced. I'm on my third Pentastar vehicle, a Dodge Journey, and like all the others before it, it gets serviced at Jiffy Lube and Goodyear. If anyone would have bad luck with oil leaks it should be me, right? Isn't getting the oil changed in a Pentastar at Jiffy Lube basically begging for trouble?

The point is, the vast, vast majority of Pentastar engines will never leak oil or anything else but the unfortunate few that do, if they're Wranglers, will probably be discussed here which can make it seem like a guarantee of failure, but it's just not the case.

I think the Pentastar is a solid engine and like any other engine a small percentage of them will have problems. It's just my opinion based on my own experience and it's worth noting that I don't work in the auto industry or anything even remotely related to it. I've just been driving the living hell out of Chrysler products for 30 years.
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:07 PM   #9
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Yep, this oil cooler housing cracking, should have never happen. If you read through the major long Thread on this, it's caused by two issues. Over tightening the oil filter cap, and other cracks that are not oil filter related, but are still in the cooler housing.

They will only campaign this housing, if they see enough failures with this issue. Don't rely on it, because it will probably never happen!!!!!

Keep in mind, just like the Cylinder head issue in the 2012 models, the odds are that yours will never have this problem!!!!!!!!!

I would carry a couple of extra quarts of oil with me on long trips, and not worry about it..........
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:14 PM   #10
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jeeps don't leak!!!!!






they mark their territory......
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:23 PM   #11
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jeeps don't leak!!!!! they mark their territory......
Mine sweats horse power.
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:31 PM   #12
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Been buying factory Oil Filters and doing my own changes,, hand tighten,, NO more.. Stay away from the quick oil change monkey's and you should be o.k. Do it yourself!
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Old 03-21-2015, 10:56 PM   #13
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Thanks - Im a retired mechanic so Im sure I could swing the oil change.. just thought it was good to have a record of them doing it.. but your right, the bottom of the Tech pool does the oil changes...Think I will do it myself...
thanks again
Keep receipts for your oil and filters, and a log showing when you changed it. As long as the oil is the recommended grade and spec, and you keep a record of when you change it, you'll be fine. The intervals are spelled out in the owners manual and you have an OLM to go by. Read the OM it will spell it all out.
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:10 PM
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Thanks guys - you gave me peace of mind... feel better
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:15 PM   #15
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Thanks guys - you gave me peace of mind... feel better
A fellow Long Islander! Drive it in good health!
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:16 PM   #16
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I've done some oil changes on this engine on Chrysler vehicles as well as the first 2 oil changes on my Wrangler. I just use a torque wrench and torque it to spec. Never had an issue. But if you take it to a quick lube you are tempting fate as a lot of those guys have no idea you can't crank it down.
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Old 03-21-2015, 11:19 PM   #17
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I've done some oil changes on this engine on Chrysler vehicles as well as the first 2 oil changes on my Wrangler. I just use a torque wrench and torque it to spec. Never had an issue. But if you take it to a quick lube you are tempting fate as a lot of those guys have no idea you can't crank it down.
Amen!! The 'do it yourself' rule never fails.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:51 AM   #18
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I would carry a couple of extra quarts of oil with me on long trips, and not worry about it..........
Yep, a spare quart of oil and a first aid kit are always a good idea though the odds of needing either are extremely small.
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Old 04-17-2015, 08:07 PM   #19
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Yeah, well I'm staring down the barrel of a 2012 3.6 losing what is starting look like now up to about 1/4 quart a month. I noticed it starting to happen slowly over the last year. It isn't on the ground so not sure where it's going at this point... My suspicion is the head replacement last year due to the ticking Pentastar (only 1 side, really, now I have one fixed and another that could go at anytime) I'm only at 26.5k miles too.

Is there a test for that sort of thing or do they have to pull the head again to check maybe the head gasket seal?
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Old 04-18-2015, 12:14 AM   #20
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The first thing I noticed doing an oil change on my jeep was that the cartridge was in a plastic housing. I do my own oil changes, and always torque everything to spec. I've worked on all kinds of vehicles over the years, and never had a single issue with anything I've fixed.
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Old 04-19-2015, 02:51 PM   #21
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There also seems to be a problem with the rear main seal leaking. Mine went at 7500 miles on my '14. It has happened to quite a few local people here with 3.6 Pentastar. Easy to tell if this the problem by where the oil is pooling, here is a pic of mine. You can see the 2 drops about to fall, usually only about 10 drops a night but this is a NEW vehicle! Let the dealer handle it, takes about half a day.
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Old 04-20-2015, 02:07 PM   #22
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I did the first oil change in my 2015 and the filter housing was tight but I took my time and got it off. When I put the cover back on and threaded it as much by hand as I could and then used a wrench until I me resistance and stopped. The o-ring is sealing fine and through my experience torque values on plastic are not good. There is such a thing as just enough in cases like this.

Why go to 20 when we all drool over our jeeps every second we get? Imagine torquing to 20 and breaking the housing, how pissed would you be? I on the other hand would not be so mad if I seeped a small amount of oil out and had to tighten it a CH more.
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:04 AM   #23
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I know the thread has gone stale but 2012 jkur with 3.6, is burning 1 quart per 3k miles. I took it to dealer for 1 change done by them, checked in at 1k, no issue, at 2.8k though it is 1 quart low. Dealer said this is within spec!

So lame!

They say since I have the lift and 37" tires, it's going to burn and suggested 3k oil changes because of it.

I do my own maintenance and check oil level every gas up which is how I saw it needing a top off before having it officially looked at (and oil done by them for the check since they don't trust customer word)
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:35 AM   #24
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I know the thread has gone stale but 2012 jkur with 3.6, is burning 1 quart per 3k miles. I took it to dealer for 1 change done by them, checked in at 1k, no issue, at 2.8k though it is 1 quart low. Dealer said this is within spec!

So lame!

They say since I have the lift and 37" tires, it's going to burn and suggested 3k oil changes because of it.

I do my own maintenance and check oil level every gas up which is how I saw it needing a top off before having it officially looked at (and oil done by them for the check since they don't trust customer word)
How many miles? Any air intake mods?

In a perfect world, 1qt per 3K miles should not happen but the dealership is right that it is within specification. I think you can go to 1qt per 1K miles and still be within spec. If you are using 5W-20, may want to try 5W-30 and see if that helps.
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Old 07-15-2015, 05:52 AM   #25
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I know the thread has gone stale but 2012 jkur with 3.6, is burning 1 quart per 3k miles. I took it to dealer for 1 change done by them, checked in at 1k, no issue, at 2.8k though it is 1 quart low. Dealer said this is within spec!

So lame!

They say since I have the lift and 37" tires, it's going to burn and suggested 3k oil changes because of it.

I do my own maintenance and check oil level every gas up which is how I saw it needing a top off before having it officially looked at (and oil done by them for the check since they don't trust customer word)
Yea when you complain about using oil unless its visibly leaking odds are they're going to tell you your consumption rate is normal. Those numbers are typically on a sliding scale and the service writer knows exactly how to taylor his answer to a customer's complaint. EG: How much oil do you use sir. Answer a qt. every 600 miles, 1000 miles, 4000 miles. Whatever number you say will be normal. LOL

Hootbro is right, you could step up to 5W30 and give it a try. But a qt. of oil in 3K miles is not bad. OTOH every 600 miles I'd have them fix it, or I'd sell it.
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Old 07-15-2015, 06:34 AM   #26
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2012s call for 5w30 anyhow. The 13+ use 5w20.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:46 AM   #27
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... The 13+ use 5w20.
... and the Owner's Manual (at least the one for my 2014) states 5W-30 is acceptable as well.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:54 AM   #28
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Oh they must have changed it, I'll have to look at her 14.
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Old 07-15-2015, 12:44 PM   #29
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... I'll have to look at her 14.
From the 2014 Owner's Manual:
Engine Oil Viscosity — 3.6L Engine
MOPAR® SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to Chrysler
Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil®, Shell
Helix® or equivalent is recommended for all operating
temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature
starting and vehicle fuel economy.
The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended
engine oil viscosity for your engine. For information on
engine oil filler cap location, refer to the “Engine Compartment” illustration in this section.
NOTE:MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to
Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil®,
Shell Helix® or equivalent may be used when SAE 5W-20
engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available.
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Old 07-15-2015, 01:12 PM   #30
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Good decision. I also like the suggestion of holding the housing while loosening & tightening the cap. I'm getting ready to do my 2nd oil change and I'm going to try this. FYI, The spec is 18 ft-lbs on the cap.
This is what I do. Hold the housing to avoid torquing the plastic housing. No biggie.

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