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Old 06-11-2019, 10:26 PM
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Oil Sending Switch - Under Intake Manifold?

What idiot at Jeep placed the oil sending unit or switch under the intake manifold? Anyone had to swap theirs out yet?

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Old 06-12-2019, 02:10 AM   #2
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Yep right after my warranty expired. Not really to hard to do just a pain. You will need a sensor removal tool and both upper and lower intake gaskets. It is also a good time to changes plugs while you are in there.

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Old 06-12-2019, 02:31 AM   #3
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+1 what a PITA to get to. Took me about 7 hours or so and a lot of beers.
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:38 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by TerryC6 View Post
Yep right after my warranty expired. Not really to hard to do just a pain. You will need a sensor removal tool and both upper and lower intake gaskets. It is also a good time to changes plugs while you are in there.
What sensor removal tool are you referring to? I have an assortment of oxygen sensor removal tools. I did an oil sending unit a few years back and don't recall what I used. Thanks!
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Old 06-12-2019, 06:35 AM   #5
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Oil pressure sensors have rounded hex corners, the sockets have rounded corners to match. I think it’s because the sensors are brass and soft.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:58 AM   #6
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What sensor removal tool are you referring to? I have an assortment of oxygen sensor removal tools. I did an oil sending unit a few years back and don't recall what I used. Thanks!
It is 1 1/16 for the oil pressure sending sensor. It is the only sensor removal tool I own.
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:04 AM   #7
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It is 1 1/16 for the oil pressure sending sensor. It is the only sensor removal tool I own.
Thanks! I read a shallow sensor socket was better for the 3.6L? I thought they only came one depth, the only difference being 3/8" or 1/2" drive? I see no reason for 1/2" drive. I'm helping a friend and don't want to be scrambling for tools.
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:41 AM   #8
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Thanks! I read a shallow sensor socket was better for the 3.6L? I thought they only came one depth, the only difference being 3/8" or 1/2" drive? I see no reason for 1/2" drive. I'm helping a friend and don't want to be scrambling for tools.
Mine is 3/8 drive just for reference.
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:46 AM   #9
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Given the many oil filter housing issues that popped up here on the forum, I don't think it is good practice to change the oil pressure sensor just by itself.

Our Jeep is almost new, but I put changing the oil filter housing unit inclusive oil pressure sensor on my periodic maintenance schedule. I plan to do this with every coolant change.

The unit is not cheap, but not expensive enough for me to make a fuzz about it.
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:06 AM   #10
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Given the many oil filter housing issues that popped up here on the forum, I don't think it is good practice to change the oil pressure sensor just by itself.

Our Jeep is almost new, but I put changing the oil filter housing unit inclusive oil pressure sensor on my periodic maintenance schedule. I plan to do this with every coolant change.

The unit is not cheap, but not expensive enough for me to make a fuzz about it.
Fixing things that are not broke is a waste of money and can lead to even bigger problems. IMO for the most part the problems with the oil housing are caused by the people changing the oil. You just don't need to put any torque on the cap. Hand tight, when it hits the stop, stop turning it.
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:05 AM   #11
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my sensor needs to be replaced too. Just not in the mood to do it right now... My warranty is expired, by time, not mileage.... Just adding to the list of projects.
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:00 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by TerryC6 View Post
Fixing things that are not broke is a waste of money and can lead to even bigger problems. IMO for the most part the problems with the oil housing are caused by the people changing the oil. You just don't need to put any torque on the cap. Hand tight, when it hits the stop, stop turning it.
Failiure of that part is reportedly NOT limited or eliminated by proper hand tightening.

And since this part has arguably become a known regular wear and tear item, it does not make any sense to wait until it gives problems, particularly if the problems that it gives can be quite devastating.

Devastating? Yes, because if that part cracks at the wrong spot internally (which there has been some reports too) and consequently you have cross contamination of oil and coolant, then you can be really proud of yourself of having waited until the last moment.

Further, if you are one of those people who keeps finding sediment in their coolant recovery bottle and heater core, you may be finding that stuff clogging the coolant passages of your oil cooler too.

But even if the filter housing just leaks and messes up of your engine with oil, it is already a really bad thing (for me). Because that oil will go everywhere including your rear seal area and that mess you won't ever be able to clean out short of disassembly. At the same time I insist on having a clean and dry engine for ease of pinpointing leaks.

I just don't get what the big f*ing deal is, that some people are making about changing the oil filter housing!

You don' trust your skills, you don't want to do preventive maintenance? LOL, it is your Jeep.
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:15 PM   #13
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Why change a part that is one, not scheduled for a change or 2 is not broke. Hell with your train of thought you might as well change the engine and tranny at 100000 miles. I am almost at 80K miles and no issues.
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:32 PM   #14
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Why change a part that is one, not scheduled for a change or 2 is not broke. Hell with your train of thought you might as well change the engine and tranny at 100000 miles. I am almost at 80K miles and no issues.
Did you even read AND understand what I wrote?

It is due to it's REPORTED high failiure rate, why I count the oil filter housing has as having arguably joined the list of periodic wear/tear maintenance items.

So with the knowledge that it will fail sooner or later, if you still insist of getting of the last inch life out of it, notably at the expense of assuming all the risks as I have just prevoiusly described l, then go ahead, that is your call then.

By the way, for food of thought, I would love to know your way of determining, that your oil cooler is not clogged and that still 100% effective cooling your oil.
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Old 06-13-2019, 04:49 PM   #15
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Did you even read AND understand what I wrote?

It is due to it's REPORTED high failiure rate, why I count the oil filter housing has as having arguably joined the list of periodic wear/tear maintenance items.

So with the knowledge that it will fail sooner or later, if you still insist of getting of the last inch life out of it, notably at the expense of assuming all the risks as I have just prevoiusly described l, then go ahead, that is your call then.

By the way, for food of thought, I would love to know your way of determining, that your oil cooler is not clogged and that still 100% effective cooling your oil.
Consider that most vehicles on the road today don't allow for monitoring oil temp. Are you changing your oil cooler (if they even have one) in all your vehicles because you don't know if the cooler is clogged or not. Also only a portion of your oil goes through the cooler, most goes through the by pass.

And while we can not monitor engine oil temp the ECU does from my understanding. I don't know the threshold value for oil temp but considering the engine was spec'd for non-synthetic oil I willing to bet it is about 250 degrees. Exceed that and the motor goes into limp mode. (just a educated guess)

I don't really worry about my oil temp as long as it is getting to 220 degrees or so. Nor am I really worried if it goes to 250 because I run synthetic oil which can handle 300 degrees plus. As long as I have the correct oil pressures which I can and do monitor and I am not in limp mode everything is fine.

I am much more worried about water temp and have addressed that issue.
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:04 PM   #16
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Consider that most vehicles on the road today don't allow for monitoring oil temp. Are you changing your oil cooler (if they even have one) in all your vehicles because you don't know if the cooler is clogged or not. Also only a portion of your oil goes through the cooler, most goes through the by pass.

And while we can not monitor engine oil temp the ECU does from my understanding. I don't know the threshold value for oil temp but considering the engine was spec'd for non-synthetic oil I willing to bet it is about 250 degrees. Exceed that and the motor goes into limp mode. (just a educated guess)

I don't really worry about my oil temp as long as it is getting to 220 degrees or so. Nor am I really worried if it goes to 250 because I run synthetic oil which can handle 300 degrees plus. As long as I have the correct oil pressures which I can and do monitor and I am not in limp mode everything is fine.

I am much more worried about water temp and have addressed that issue.
You got it completely upside down.

You are mixing up Pentastar's oil cooler setup with an oil-to-air cooler !!!

It is NOT the oil cooler's oil passages that I'm concerned with. It is the COOLANT PASSAGES of the 'coolant-to-oil-cooler'.

Because if the coolant passages clog with coolant sediment, the oil cooler stops doing it's job. The oil will still pass though, but it is no longer going to be cooled (this is by the way a whole other subject that deserves a thread on it's own).

As you correctly mentioned, there is no way to monitor the engine oil temperature via EVIC, and with THAT in mind was my last 'food for thought' question: "how can you tell that your oil cooler works as it should".
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Old 06-14-2019, 01:25 PM   #17
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I actually just did this. You 100% need the short removal tool. If you are not going to pull the oil cooler. The long one wont fit as there are wires that it hangs on, deep set sockets are too long as well. Thankfully they are only $6. (Lisle 13200 on amazon) Or most auto parts stores. You can pull the lower plenum without removing the injectors just need to disconnect the fuel line. If you do it that way, it will run like crap the first start up and kick a code, let it run for a min kill it and start it again and all should be well.

2 worst things about it, the never ending amounts of Christmas tree clips you need to pry up (including one on the back of the engine) and the 2 freaking nuts that hold the brace for the heater lines by the battery tray. Though you might be able to pry the manifold side up enough to not have to deal with them. I had to as I replaced the spark plugs while I was in there.
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Old 06-14-2019, 01:57 PM   #18
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As you correctly mentioned, there is no way to monitor the engine oil temperature via EVIC, and with THAT in mind was my last 'food for thought' question: "how can you tell that your oil cooler works as it should".
As you said you can't monitor it so what are you suppose to do. Change it all the time just incase it gets clogged up? I don't change parts unless there is a reason to change parts. If the vehicle goes into limp mode because the oil is to hot then I know I have a problem.
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:49 PM   #19
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having gone thru the cooler replacement ..
and no ,it was a plug seal on the body. not improper oil changes

from 2014 on I would recommend replacing the whole cooler unless I knew for a fact it was already replaced
if its a 14or 15 it will fail at some point
the new unit already comes with a filter ,oil pressure sending unit ,and coolant temp sensor
it'll take about 4 hrs regardless of the part price
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:48 AM   #20
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if its a 14or 15 it will fail at some point
the new unit already comes with a filter ,oil pressure sending unit ,and coolant temp sensor
it'll take about 4 hrs regardless of the part price
Agreed. Once you dig in there, you might as well change the assembly.

But as you see by the previous posters persistent arguing, apparently there is a type that insists on waiting until this knowingly problem part actually fails. Good luck to them.

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