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Old 07-28-2019, 05:19 PM
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Opinions on my re-gear plan

I've been going back and forth about a lot of different re-gearing options- including dropping my front Dana 30 and replacing it with a Terra44. But after doing some cost analysis and really thinking about the type and difficulty of the wheeling I'm gonna be doing, I've restructured my plan. Just looking for advice or any components I might be missing.

Yukon 4.56 R&P with Master Overhaul
Yukon 4340 Chromoly Front Axles- 27 Spline
ARB 27 Spline Front Locker
Revolution DANA 44 JK 4140 Chromoly Rear Axles- 35 Spline
ARB 35 Spline Rear Locker
ARB Side by Side Air Compressor
ARB Manifold

Is there anything else I need to get?

Thoughts on the parts I'm looking at? I looked at RCV's, and I understand that they're "the best" but the cost seems way high for what I'll be doing with the rig.

Thanks!

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Old 07-29-2019, 12:30 AM   #2
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In a similar boat here. D30 front, rear D44 on my sport. I want to regear from my 3.21s since I've swapped my tires.

I too want to get lockers while regearing but I've read that the front D30 may not hold up to a locked setup?

So I may just go with either locked rear and open front or upgrade the whole axle up front. I'm leaning towards a 4.88 gearing setup since I have 35s now and would like to maybe go with 37s in the future.


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Old 07-29-2019, 06:57 AM   #3
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I would only recommend upgrading a Dana 30 if your wheeling is in the mild to moderate category and you are a very disciplined driver (no hopping or excessive wheel spinning.) You should be adding sleeves and C-gussets at a minimum. IMO if you're planning on trussing a Dana 30 you'd be better off upgrading to a Dana 44 or 60. As far as your list of upgrades - 4.56 should be fine with the 3.6l, 4.88 with 3.8l autos. Other upgrades look reasonable. I didn't see a mention of tire size which is also a factor. 35s or smaller I think you can make it work - true 37s or larger you should go with Dana 44 or 60. I ran a setup very similar to what you are proposing for years, wheeling Moab 5 or less rated trails with 3.8 and 4.88s. After my LS3 swap I needed Dana 60s.
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Old 07-29-2019, 10:45 AM   #4
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My d30 is locked but I left the factory axle shafts. Would rather break one of them than a $900 locker. People freak out about locking it. However, I rarely use it as your steering goes to crap with it locked. I really only use it in point and shoot situations. Stay off the skinny pedal and you'll be fine.

Also, if you are not doing the work yourself, a plug and play front d44 isn't that much more expensive. Look at the Carbon off road axles. They use a currie housing and are pretty reasonably priced. Had I had to pay for the work, I'd have gone that way, but I also did a bunch of axle armor at the same time. so I factored that in as well.
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Old 07-29-2019, 06:24 PM   #5
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I have a trussed D30 in front with elocker as well. After a trip to Sandhollow, three to Moab and two to the MN Iron range my passenger side decided to give up and snap. I keep sliding off the rock my drivers front wheel need to be on so I locked the front and hear the pop. I too am running factory axles. If I snap again I may upgrade to chromoly inners and standard outers. Unfortunately I had to pull the carrier to get the stub out so that meant no more wheeling with my Jeep until I got her back home and fixed. I could tell that it had been cracked previously. I am pretty sure at Moab this year. While I try to take it easy on the skinny petal I like to wheel on fun trails. ie Kane Creek, Hell Rev, GoldenSpk etc. Part of the game I guess. 3.5yrs on factory D30 axles and 35's is not too bad.
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Old 07-29-2019, 08:35 PM   #6
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Also realize it's a dangerous game using D30 axle shafts as a "fuse" part. You cant control where if breaks. Or the possibility of it taking out a locker and/or ring and pinion with it.

As for gearing, OP didn't give tire size but 4.56 for 33s, 4.88 for 35s.

If you wheel at all, I would truss and gusset the 30 and stay at 35 or smaller tire. For a street only Jeep, a sleeve and gusset may be sufficient as you wouldn't really be twisting up the housing on pavement.

And locking the front with a 35 is a recipe for steering problems- use the locker judiciously and with as absolute little gas pedal as possible.
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:50 AM   #7
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Re: using Dana 30 axles as a "fuse" part. I tried that for a couple years thinking that the weak point (u-joint) would be an easy trail fix when it broke. First u-joint break took out my steering knuckle when a piece of the u-joint wedged into the knuckle requiring new knuckle, ball joints, axle shaft, brake slider pins. This happened on Metal Masher trail in Moab. My buddies went into town and brought back all the parts and I was fixed before dark. It was expensive!

Second break happened on Cliffhanger when the other side u-joint broke ovaling out the axle shaft holes. I jammed a rag into the axle tube and wheeled it out in 3-wheel drive with a few tugs over obstacles.

So after spending around $3k in axle parts in Moab I decided to upgrade to ProRock 60s and haven't had a break since.
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:03 PM   #8
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You are much more likely to break something in a locked D30 than you are in an unlocked D30 (stress on u-joints, R&P, etc). Just lock the rear and put chromoly shafts front and rear. That will get you through 98% of all the trails that you would do relatively reliably. Personally I wouldn't lock a front axle unless it's a D44 or better.
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:55 AM   #9
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D30 + Torq Locker + 4.56 w/ stock shaft and no reinforcements;D44 + Elocker w/ stock shafts on 33x11 Patagoina MTs.
Works great for the low $$ invested and the trype of wheeling I do. Guys i go with on 35 w/ 4-6" lift TJ/YJ cant believe I can go the same places with no winching ...be smart about the skinny petal...it's not a rock bouncer...

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