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Old 11-26-2015, 09:18 AM
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Prime candidate for front sway bar links?

Looks like I should replace my front sway bar links, took the angle pro to them and I am about 10* angled up (pics below). I have the AEV 3.5" Duel Sport RS lift and I guess they replace the front links with the rears which appear to be to long.


Guess I will go with the JKS quick disconnects in the 2.5"-6" lift size to get my front sway bar back to level as possible.
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:27 AM   #2
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10° up front is fine.

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Old 11-26-2015, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
10° up front is fine.
I'm actually about 10.75*. Hmm, thought JKS's site says 0* to 5* was what you were aiming for.
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstuck 16 View Post
Looks like I should replace my front sway bar links, took the angle pro to them and I am about 10* angled up (pics below). I have the AEV 3.5" Duel Sport RS lift and I guess they replace the front links with the rears which appear to be to long.


Guess I will go with the JKS quick disconnects in the 2.5"-6" lift size to get my front sway bar back to level as possible.
JKS Manufacturing JKS2030 - JKS Manufacturing Quicker Disconnects™ for 07-16 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec
Sound good? Oh Yea, Happy Thanksgiving!!


WAIT!!!! Just get rid of the AEV brackets and bolt the longer links to the factory holes.

Or get the premium disconnects and dump the brackets anyways...
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:21 AM
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Thx Guy!!
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:34 AM   #7
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or better yet add some flexlinks with yellow springs and adust them where you want them. I think if you remove the brackets you will be a little short. you could drill a hole lower on the bracket if it bothers you but as jkeeper said wont hurt being high.

I think pressurized and I both hate the aev brackets equally.
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:36 AM   #8
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Go with the JKS and remove the brackets.
Then you can disconnect on the trail.
Even if you're not rock crawling and flexing, disconnecting really smooths out the ride.
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul04tj View Post
Go with the JKS and remove the brackets.
Then you can disconnect on the trail.
Even if you're not rock crawling and flexing, disconnecting really smooths out the ride.
while I agree, he does have electronic disconnects already.
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pressurized View Post
WAIT!!!! Just get rid of the AEV brackets and bolt the longer links to the factory holes.

Or get the premium disconnects and dump the brackets anyways...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
or better yet add some flexlinks with yellow springs and adust them where you want them. I think if you remove the brackets you will be a little short. you could drill a hole lower on the bracket if it bothers you but as jkeeper said wont hurt being high.

I think pressurized and I both hate the aev brackets equally.
The passenger side bracket relocates the track bar and the steering stabilizer.
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstuck 16 View Post
The passenger side bracket relocates the track bar and the steering stabilizer.
I forgot about that on the 3.5-4.5" lifts. Like JKeeper says you are fine. If you are really anal (I am) you can get adjustable jks links or flexlink and get your 5* you are looking for. you can also grind down or swazall the tube thru the frame to keep it from hitting the swaybar. looks like yours already has made contact. you can redrill the bracket and lower the link on the bracket which should be easy too.
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:44 AM   #12
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Oops, missed the Hard Rock part.
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Old 11-26-2015, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
I forgot about that on the 3.5-4.5" lifts. Like JKeeper says you are fine. If you are really anal (I am) you can get adjustable jks links or flexlink and get your 5* you are looking for. you can also grind down or swazall the tube thru the frame to keep it from hitting the swaybar. looks like yours already has made contact. you can redrill the bracket and lower the link on the bracket which should be easy too.
Yea, I noticed the contact with the tube sticking out of the frame. Was another reason for trying to lower the sway bar. I will be cutting or grinding the tube area, I think the shock housing could use a very small grind too.
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Old 11-26-2015, 12:42 PM   #14
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Oh yes, forgot the 3.5 steering correction bracket...

You could do something like the Steinjagers and make them in to whatever length you wanted.

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Old 11-26-2015, 12:51 PM   #15
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i have the same lift and same exact issue i grinded the tubes on the frame so they dont clank. sound drove me nuts. i will be getting jks disconects and adjusting them down.
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Old 11-26-2015, 01:46 PM   #17
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As others have mentioned I would get the JKS quicker disconnects or flex connects. My sway bar angle was high like yours and I noticed a difference when lowering. I can't comment on removing the brackets as I never had them installed.

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