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Old 06-30-2015, 01:41 PM
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Prorock 44 questions

I'm thinking about getting prorock 44s soon-ish since I'll have some money saved up after a stint in the sandbox. If I do then there will be no point in me installing my Evo Rockstar skids/shock mounts on my stock axle. Am I correct in assuming the Evo Rockstars won't work on a prorock?

Are there any common issues that might occur during the swap? I have 15" wheels with 1.5" spacers. Will these be a problem? I'm also considering upgrading to Reid knuckles as well.

My setup currently is:

2010 JK Sport
3.5" RK lift, all 8 control arms, RK 2.0 reservoir shocks, track bars, drag link, pretty much nothing is stock. Tie rod is Synergy.
35" KM2s on 15" Level 8 Trackers

I want to get complete axles with lockers and gears so it's a ready to go drop in. I just want to know if it's going to be as easy of a process as I think it will be. And if it isn't then to prepare for any issues ahead of time.

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Old 06-30-2015, 01:46 PM   #2
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Instead of winging it, I would call anyone of the vendors first. Built right they should bolt right up with no issues.
What driveshafts are you going with?

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Old 06-30-2015, 01:53 PM
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Instead of winging it, I would call anyone of the vendors first. Built right they should bolt right up with no issues.
What driveshafts are you going with?
Yeah I'll probably go through Northridge or whoever can get me the best price. Good to know they should be issue free.

Forgot to mention the driveshafts. I have Krawl Offroad shafts front and rear.
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Old 06-30-2015, 01:59 PM   #4
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Yeah I'll probably go through Northridge or whoever can get me the best price. Good to know they should be issue free. Forgot to mention the driveshafts. I have Krawl Offroad shafts front and rear.
Awesome, how do you like them ?
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:10 PM
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Awesome, how do you like them ?
They've been great so far. I got them cheaper since they were brand new to the market so the price was right and there are no vibrations or any issues. No complaints here. I had a heck of a time removing the stock rear shaft though. I even resorted to using my winch and a snatch block...which ended up just pulling my truck towards the Jeep. After hammering and winching and swearing it finally just fell right off. I was relieved and pissed off at the same time lol.
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:14 PM   #6
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They've been great so far. I got them cheaper since they were brand new to the market so the price was right and there are no vibrations or any issues. No complaints here. I had a heck of a time removing the stock rear shaft though. I even resorted to using my winch and a snatch block...which ended up just pulling my truck towards the Jeep. After hammering and winching and swearing it finally just fell right off. I was relieved and pissed off at the same time lol.
I had mine off this winter installing the Rockslide transfer case brace
Thanks .. Thunking about a KOR rear.
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Old 06-30-2015, 03:21 PM   #7
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Yeah I'll probably go through Northridge or whoever can get me the best price. Good to know they should be issue free.

Forgot to mention the driveshafts. I have Krawl Offroad shafts front and rear.
Nice shafts! LOL Sorry had too!

We can help. Feel free to shoot me a PM or a email and we will see what we can do to help out!

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Old 06-30-2015, 05:55 PM
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What about this rear upper shock relocation mount? I have one of these as well as the Evo Rockstars that I haven't installed yet. Would I still benefit from this after installing prorocks? The main reason I bought these were to make more clearance for the shock and my track bar mount. I'm just wondering if I should sell them as well as the Evo Rockstars.

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Old 06-30-2015, 08:43 PM   #9
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Prorock 44 is a front axle. EVO Rockstars are for the rear. Am I missing something here?
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:52 PM
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Prorock 44 is a front axle. EVO Rockstars are for the rear. Am I missing something here?
I was assuming they made front and rear axles. If not then who would make a drop in rear axle?
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:50 PM   #11
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I was assuming they made front and rear axles. If not then who would make a drop in rear axle?
Dynatrac does make rear axles, only 60's and up though....
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:34 PM   #12
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I was assuming they made front and rear axles. If not then who would make a drop in rear axle?
The Dana 44 in the rear is a real Dana 44 unlike the front Dana 44 in the Rubicon which is like a hybrid. Plenty strong as is, but like Jkuone said, you'd have to upgrade to a Dana 60 rear. I'd say just focus on the front and replace the rear *if* you break it. Your money, of course. Be safe over there. Thank you for your service.
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:53 PM   #13
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I was assuming they made front and rear axles. If not then who would make a drop in rear axle?
There are plenty of aftermarket rear Dana 44s on the market. But as has been said already, the rear is a "real" Dana 44 already and the upgrade is a Dana 60.
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:56 AM   #14
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Correct. Of course if you are swapping the front to a PR44, you would want to build the stock rear D44. I would highly recommend swapping the axle shafts and of course you would have to regear it if needed to match the gearing in the front PR44. You can add some strength with the Artec 44 rear truss too if you would like.

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Old 07-01-2015, 04:02 PM
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Heck maybe I'll just go with 60s then. I doubt I need the extra strength and I've read that 60s have less clearance than 44s so that's why I was going to stick with 44s. The pictures of the Dynatrac 60s don't look as bad as others I've seen though. The others have these massive brackets hanging below the axle. I've got plenty of time to decide though. I'm reading up on their 60/44 hybrid as well.

I know I would probably be fine with beefing up the stock rear axle but I'd also be regearing and adding lockers. I just feel like I should spend the extra money up front and do it right the first time around. I've already welded on an aftermarket track bar bracket and had to grind it down just to make it work. I think I need to remove even more to be safe when off road.

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Old 07-01-2015, 04:19 PM   #16
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For the rear axle, there's not a huge jump in cost for a 60. For the front though, it's significant.

My plan for my "stage 2" build is to do an aftermarket 44 in the front (to save a good $3K or so) and a high clearance D60 in the rear. But for now my built 30/44 combo is holding up to 35's well enough.
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:33 PM   #17
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I am running a PR44 in the front. Really no need to upgrade the rear unless you for to a 60. Like Jason said, build up the rear 44 with shafts and maybe a truss along with the gearing you did in the ProRock. When you do the gearing, might as well do a locker as well since they are in there (save on labor). It really just depends on what size tire you plan to run. 35s, you are fine with a PR44 and the 44 in the rear. Hell I am running a PR44 up front with RCV shafts and the stock 44 in the rear with chromoly shafts on 37s and that is plenty strong enough.

You asked about the Reid knuckles. I thought about going with them, but I am not running enough lift for it to really work or be necessary. Those knuckles require a high steer kit and there is a decent possibility you the frame could come into contact with the steering components when articulating upwards.
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:56 PM   #18
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I think the PR60's are negligible in ground clearence from factory 44's but if your not planning to run 40's then 60's are over kill.

Also for a set of ProRock 60's your looking north of $18k for axles, then wheels to match your new bolt pattern.

Don't waste your $$ on the Reid's.

A pr44 and my upgraded rear 44 is enough to handle a Hemi powered jk on 37's... So far!
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:46 PM   #19
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For the guys running pr44 help me understand something. I get the tubes and brackets are stronger but you still have a 44 ring and pinion and the same rinky dink hubs and balljoints. How exactly is this a big upgrade. Wouldn't a built rubi that's trussed and armored be the same thing? Not knocking the pr44 and I can understand the upgrade if running a 30 by don't really see a point to replacing s rubi 44 with a pr44 unless it explodes
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:24 PM
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For the guys running pr44 help me understand something. I get the tubes and brackets are stronger but you still have a 44 ring and pinion and the same rinky dink hubs and balljoints. How exactly is this a big upgrade. Wouldn't a built rubi that's trussed and armored be the same thing? Not knocking the pr44 and I can understand the upgrade if running a 30 by don't really see a point to replacing s rubi 44 with a pr44 unless it explodes
A Rubicon 44 is a lot weaker than a PR44. I reckon a Rubi 44 has more in common with a Sport 30 than it does a PR44. The only difference between a 30 and 44 is the ring and pinion. The axle thickness, the C's, etc are all the same.

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Old 07-01-2015, 09:43 PM   #21
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I don't know anyone who buys an aftermarket D44 who used stock ball joints. Everyone I've seen has upgraded joints. I mean, you're building the axle already, it's not like you need to pay labor to change them.

And the stock outer steering knuckle and unit bearing don't have a reputation for being the weak link in the axle.
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Old 07-01-2015, 11:33 PM   #22
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For the guys running pr44 help me understand something. I get the tubes and brackets are stronger but you still have a 44 ring and pinion and the same rinky dink hubs and balljoints. How exactly is this a big upgrade. Wouldn't a built rubi that's trussed and armored be the same thing? Not knocking the pr44 and I can understand the upgrade if running a 30 by don't really see a point to replacing s rubi 44 with a pr44 unless it explodes
The weak point is the stock housings and C's. They bend quiet easily... Even trussed they will bend.

Usually if your spending the $$$ to buy a new axle a couple hundy for some ball joints doesn't matter.

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