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Old 01-14-2020, 08:29 PM
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Qtec led fog lites install

I just received my led fog lites from Qtec and plan on installing soon. The instructions say either remove grill and filler plate along with factory skid under bumper or remove bumper completely. After reading the instructions I have a question... why do I need to remove filler plate and grill? It looks like it can all be done from below with that skid off.
Thanks

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Old 01-15-2020, 06:45 PM   #2
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You can do both, or just the top or bottom. I did mine from the top. Removed grill and filler plate, stubby ratcheting screwdriver, 4 phillips (#2) screws each and done. Maybe 20 minutes total. Took me longer to aim them than to install them.

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Old 01-15-2020, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PeedoPie View Post
You can do both, or just the top or bottom. I did mine from the top. Removed grill and filler plate, stubby ratcheting screwdriver, 4 phillips (#2) screws each and done. Maybe 20 minutes total. Took me longer to aim them than to install them.
Thanks. Unfortunately now I have to wait on the anti-flicker harness as I didn’t know I needed one w these fogs.
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Old 01-15-2020, 07:41 PM   #4
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I have seen the PWM (pulse width modulator aka anti-flicker) harness for the headlights, but don't see one listed for the fog lights. The connections of the headlights and fog lights are incompatible. The LED headlights have an H4 connection while the Jeep has an H13 headlight connection. The PWM has an H13 in and an H4 out so serves as the converter pig tail as well.

The fog light connection is a two wire deutch watertight connection so the headlight PWM cannot be plugged into the fog lights.
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Old 01-15-2020, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rgreen65 View Post
I have seen the PWM (pulse width modulator aka anti-flicker) harness for the headlights, but don't see one listed for the fog lights. The connections of the headlights and fog lights are incompatible. The LED headlights have an H4 connection while the Jeep has an H13 headlight connection. The PWM has an H13 in and an H4 out so serves as the converter pig tail as well.
The fog light connection is a two wire deutch watertight connection so the headlight PWM cannot be plugged into the fog lights.
From Qtec site fog light page:

"1. Some 2014 JK's and newer may experience flickering from the fog lights. We recommend if this happens to add the Quadratec Fog Lamp Anti Flicker Pulse Width Modulator.Installation Time: Less than an hour"

https://www.quadratec.com/products/97109_0920_14.htm

"Quadratec is now offering a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Adapter Harness that eliminates possible fog lamp flicker in 2010- current Jeep® Wrangler JK and JL models. This PSX24 to Deutsch-style adapter stores power during "on" time which allows the lamp to utilize constant "on" energy thus eliminating the flicker. Sold in Pairs"
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Old 01-15-2020, 07:54 PM   #6
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Those are new. I even entered "Fog Light anti-flicker" into their search bar and did not see that. I have spent a lot of time (and money) on the Qtec website so I can find most items I look for.

Of course the other way is to have the dealer reprogram the TIPM to take the flicker out, but the PWMs are a less expensive way to do it. I was interested for future use in the forum as my '17 has LEDs from the factory. An upgrade to LEDs from incandescent is certainly worth it. I have even replaced most of my home lights to get the brighter bulbs (5000K vs the old warm white).
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Old 01-15-2020, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeedoPie View Post
You can do both, or just the top or bottom. I did mine from the top. Removed grill and filler plate, stubby ratcheting screwdriver, 4 phillips (#2) screws each and done. Maybe 20 minutes total. Took me longer to aim them than to install them.
So I can go up from the bottom after removing that “skid plate”?
The lights look similar to those I had on my ‘04 Dakota. I swapped those from underneath.
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Old 01-16-2020, 03:24 PM   #8
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I went from the top. Some say they were able to unscrew that setup with the plastic pins, but I couldn't get them out- they just spun. I used the suggested drywall screw and just yanked them out. Picked up some push pins that can be easily removed from Lowes.
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Old 01-16-2020, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Nottalot View Post
I went from the top. Some say they were able to unscrew that setup with the plastic pins, but I couldn't get them out- they just spun. I used the suggested drywall screw and just yanked them out. Picked up some push pins that can be easily removed from Lowes.
Did you also pull the skid plate thing too?
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Old 01-17-2020, 10:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nottalot View Post
I went from the top. Some say they were able to unscrew that setup with the plastic pins, but I couldn't get them out- they just spun. I used the suggested drywall screw and just yanked them out. Picked up some push pins that can be easily removed from Lowes.
Same here. I thought it would be easier to work from standing than laying on the ground.
On those plastic fasteners - you only need to thread the screw in far enough to get some bite in the plastic. When I was done, I shoved the pins back in the larger plug and they seemed to be doing their job.
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Old 01-17-2020, 04:27 PM   #11
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Did you also pull the skid plate thing too?
Sorry, just saw this....no on pulling the lower. I had room to use a stubby screw driver and it was pretty easy.
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:10 AM   #12
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I found it easier to work from the bottom so I could see what I was doing. Also, if I'm not mistaken, ran into a clearance issue with the foglights being too large to fit for removal/install through the space left by the filler panel?

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