I have 2 gallons of concentrated OAT coolant for my 14 JKU and I have 6 gallons of distilled water just waiting for some cool weather to work in the garage but here is my question. I have done lots of coolant changes in older vehicles and such but on this JKU I"m not sure if Im doing it right coming from a mechanic's POV that's actually kinda sad, but it's a JEEP and that's what happens right? Anyways I plan to capture as much coolant as I can by releasing the valve below, putting in distilled water with the protectant from prestone, let it run, cool down, then keep doing this until the water is clear. I DO not want to cut pipes to get to the heater core. I have lots of accessories installed so there is cables (managed neatly) all over that area where you access the heater core pipes. Is it ok to just drain fill, drain fill, until the radiator is clean then proceed to top off with the coolant? Will be doing it soon. Any input would be appreciated.
I would remove the thermostat and flush the system thorougly with tapwater first.
Then if you feel you need to flush out the tapwater with distilled water you may do that. It takes about 4-5 times system capacity to flush close to 100%. Fill the cooling system with 1/2 system capacity coolant concentrate. Install a new thermostat housing assembly, burp the system and correct coolant concentration with help of a refractometer. This will take a few subsequent trips and require removal or adding of coolant concentrate or water to complete. By the way, this may be also a good time to change your oil cooler assembly.
Our JK is new, so I have not done this yet and may need to work out the details better, but I have done it this way on other vehicles and this is the way to go if you want a true flush.
YES, this is the long way, but again for a good cause - true flush!
Thanks for the input will give it a go sadly I replaced the thermostat housing in 2017 so the coolant was still good but now I hit 109k miles it says to replace at 150k or 10 years I just want it done, thanks again.
the rad release valve is almost impossible to get at. I ended up undoing the lower rad and upper rad hoses and running a hose till water became clear. I also did three flushes with water I had boiled and let cool over three days till the over flow bottle was clear then switched to OEM HOAT coolant:
Yes, OAT (and HOAT) vehicles are just drain and re-fill, to refresh the anti-corrosion additives
Flushing was done in the old days, with 2-year coolants
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