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Old 02-06-2015, 06:34 PM
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Questions about Shock & Spring Swap?

Hey everybody,

Getting ready to swap out my old stock shocks and springs using Rubicon take offs. This will be one of the first major things mechanically that I'll be doing myself, so I just want to be sure I get everything right.

I got under the Jeep today and the front and rear shocks look simple enough, just bolt on/bolt off (call me out if I'm wrong here) but the springs look a little bit tougher. I read a thread regarding the installation of much taller springs and it mentioned removing the transmission skid, dropping the axle and disconnecting the ESP/BAS etc. which is a bit more intimidating than I had planned. My main question is, for the spring swap from stock to the stiffer Rubicon springs, will I need a spring/coil compressor from Autozone to make it fit without doing all the above? Is skid plate removal, dropping axle, etc. required either way? Or, should it be a relatively straightforward swap?

The front stock springs are rated at 12/13, rubicons are 18.
The rear stock springs are rated at 52/53, rubicons are 60.

I plan on getting everything done tomorrow hopefully, so more questions may arise. But for now any input is welcome!

Thanks!

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Old 02-06-2015, 06:50 PM   #2
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remove shocks, undo the sway bar links at bottom bolt leave top connected to the sway bar. jack up vehicle by the axles and put on 6 ton jack stands pull rims off. make sure your brake line brackets are undone so there is slack, pull the parking brake cable from little holder so it does not over stretch them. lower axles using a floor jack and your stock coils will get loose and you will be able to pull them out and replace with new ones. some times it is easier to lever one side of the axle down giving you lots of space to get the coils in place. also loosen the lower and upper control arms but no need to remove.

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Old 02-06-2015, 06:58 PM
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remove shocks, undo the sway bar links at bottom bolt leave top connected to the sway bar. jack up vehicle by the axles and put on 6 ton jack stands pull rims off. make sure your brake line brackets are undone so there is slack, pull the parking brake cable from little holder so it does not over stretch them. lower axles using a floor jack and your stock coils will get loose and you will be able to pull them out and replace with new ones. some times it is easier to lever one side of the axle down giving you lots of space to get the coils in place. also loosen the lower and upper control arms but no need to remove.
So in theory I should replace the springs before each shock as I go to save time? Is all of the disconnecting for the brake lines required for the rear axle as well?
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:08 PM   #4
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yes remove shocks and replace them last. you don't remove the brake lines just the brackets holding them so they have slack front and rear..
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:14 PM
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yes remove shocks and replace them last. you don't remove the brake lines just the brackets holding them so they have slack front and rear..
Great. Is it the same basic procedure for the rear as well?
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:19 PM   #6
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Great. Is it the same basic procedure for the rear as well?
yes. Tera Flex has some good videos on their website or go to the AEV website and look at the 2" spacer install instructions and it is basically the same procedure.
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:20 PM
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yes. Tera Flex has some good videos on their website or go to the AEV website and look at the 2" spacer install instructions and it is basically the same procedure.
Great, thanks so much! We will see how it goes!
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:22 PM   #8
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Teraflex has a nice video on YouTube for their level kit. Your not adding spacers but the same tips will apply regarding coil removal and dropping the axle.
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:35 AM   #9
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Once you have the install done, please measure using the picture below and report your findings. This is important for us to let you know what else you might need.



If you get 1-1/2" or less, there isn't anything else you need to do. But if you get 2" or more, then it's likely that you should add sway bar links, etc. We'll have you take some pictures.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:59 PM
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Once you have the install done, please measure using the picture below and report your findings. This is important for us to let you know what else you might need. If you get 1-1/2" or less, there isn't anything else you need to do. But if you get 2" or more, then it's likely that you should add sway bar links, etc. We'll have you take some pictures.
Will do thank you
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:04 AM   #11
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Those instructions aren't quite right. Jack the vehicle and place on Jack stands first. Work on one side at a time. Remove the lower shock bolt and lower sway bar bolt while the axle is supported with a floor Jack. Unbolt the bracket holding the brake line to allow slack. No need to touch the control arms. Remove the top shock nut. Install the new shock at the top. Slowly lower the floor Jack until you can remove the spring. Lower it more until you can get the new one in. Jack up until the sway bar and shock line up. Install and tighten bolts and re-attach brake line. Repeat for the other side. Both wheels should be off when you start.
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:05 AM   #12
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This procedure is detailed on Project JK for the OME lift install.
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:44 AM   #13
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Those instructions aren't quite right. Jack the vehicle and place on Jack stands first. Work on one side at a time. Remove the lower shock bolt and lower sway bar bolt while the axle is supported with a floor Jack. Unbolt the bracket holding the brake line to allow slack. No need to touch the control arms. Remove the top shock nut. Install the new shock at the top. Slowly lower the floor Jack until you can remove the spring. Lower it more until you can get the new one in. Jack up until the sway bar and shock line up. Install and tighten bolts and re-attach brake line. Repeat for the other side. Both wheels should be off when you start.
most experts would disagree and most lift kits and leveling kits recommend loosening them so as not to create bind and prematurely wear out the bushings. Loosen up and retorq when back on the ground.
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:58 AM   #14
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I agree with jadmt. Any time more lift is involved, it's worth the time to loosen up and retorque at the new neutral height. extra work - yes but more peace of mind..
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:20 AM   #15
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i agree with jadmt. Any time more lift is involved, it's worth the time to loosen up and retorque at the new neutral height. Extra work - yes but more peace of mind..
x3
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Old 02-17-2015, 02:43 PM
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I agree with jadmt. Any time more lift is involved, it's worth the time to loosen up and retorque at the new neutral height. extra work - yes but more peace of mind..
Getting ready to do this - is there a way to tell when the bolt has been retorqued, and should I loosen the bolts before jacking it up?
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Old 03-15-2015, 08:41 PM   #17
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Getting ready to do this - is there a way to tell when the bolt has been retorqued, and should I loosen the bolts before jacking it up?
I am planning on the same install. Please post some pics when done.
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:34 PM   #18
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Thanks to those who paved the way and gave such detailed instructions. I followed this thread along with the TeraFlex videos and the swap from 14-55 to 17-59 went well. The only hiccup I ran into was the control arms were hard to get loose. It just took lots of PB Blaster and some muscle. I ended up with about 2" at the bumpers and an inch at the shocks (19.5 compared to 18.5 stock). Here's the before and after.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:46 PM   #19
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Thanks to those who paved the way and gave such detailed instructions. I followed this thread along with the TeraFlex videos and the swap from 14-55 to 17-59 went well. The only hiccup I ran into was the control arms were hard to get loose. It just took lots of PB Blaster and some muscle. I ended up with about 2" at the bumpers and an inch at the shocks (19.5 compared to 18.5 stock). Here's the before and after. [/URL][/IMG]
I need some advice guys. I'm not loving how much rake I have. I realize I have the soft top on and I haven't changed the tire carrier yet but I'm not sure it would level out even with the hard top and a new bumper/carrier. Would a 1" TF coil spacer in the front get me to the 2" added-height threshold to need sway bar links (remember I went from 18.5 to 19.5)? So should I just get the TF leveling kit and only use the front spacer and links?
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:57 PM   #20
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I am loading up my jeep (bumpers and winch etc..) first to let me know exactly what I need to get the right amount of lift.
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Old 05-10-2015, 02:40 PM   #21
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Find a 200 pound person and have them sit on the back... thats the least amount of weight you could expect with a rearbumper+ tire carrier and a hard top.. more like 250.
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:32 PM   #22
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Those instructions aren't quite right. Jack the vehicle and place on Jack stands first. Work on one side at a time. Remove the lower shock bolt and lower sway bar bolt while the axle is supported with a floor Jack. Unbolt the bracket holding the brake line to allow slack. No need to touch the control arms. Remove the top shock nut. Install the new shock at the top. Slowly lower the floor Jack until you can remove the spring. Lower it more until you can get the new one in. Jack up until the sway bar and shock line up. Install and tighten bolts and re-attach brake line. Repeat for the other side. Both wheels should be off when you start.
This is pretty much what I did, but you might find it easier to remove the top shock nuts after the springs are pulled out. Mine is a Rubi, so I didn't change the shocks. Also, when setting it on stands, place them under the frame rails just ahead of the control arms for the rear. It's best to loosen the bushing nuts before letting the axle down because it won't drop all the way otherwise.

Mine is up 2" and there was no need to get longer sway bar links for that lift, especially with stock length shocks because the axle cannot drop farther than the stock amount. The stock length shocks work well with 2" or less lift. If you plan to add a front bumper or winch, now is the time to add spring spacers to compensate for that added weight. I put in 19/60 springs on my 2dr with a bumper and winch. I added 3/4" pucks and netted 2" lift in front.

If careful, you won't have to disconnect the wires to the center of the differential either. Keep a floor jack under the axle center, on whichever end you're doing, throughout the work so you can adjust the axle up and down as needed.
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:36 PM   #23
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Thanks to those who paved the way and gave such detailed instructions. I followed this thread along with the TeraFlex videos and the swap from 14-55 to 17-59 went well. The only hiccup I ran into was the control arms were hard to get loose. It just took lots of PB Blaster and some muscle. I ended up with about 2" at the bumpers and an inch at the shocks (19.5 compared to 18.5 stock). Here's the before and after.

[IMG][/IMG]
Somehow in your work the top changed too!? Weird. That didn't happen when I did mine. That probably contributed to some of the height change in the rear.
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Old 05-10-2015, 06:37 PM   #24
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Find a 200 pound person and have them sit on the back... thats the least amount of weight you could expect with a rearbumper+ tire carrier and a hard top.. more like 250.
I climbed on the bumper and its close, but I think the front still needs to come up. Unless I drive around with 20 bags of mulch in the back?

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