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Old 02-13-2015, 08:50 AM
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Quick disconnect studs for stock sway links/ options?

Outside of making my own quick disconnect inks, are there any studs I could buy that would work with the stock sway bar end links? I see you can but the tereflex studs alone, wasn't sure if something like these would work with the stock sway bar end links?

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Old 02-13-2015, 09:26 AM   #2
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I think you can get them at Summit also. Make sure it is the correct diameter and has enough bolt length to mount.

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Old 02-13-2015, 09:55 AM   #3
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I tried this as well but I found that the stock links don't have enough misalignment to work because of the fixed bushing.

So I made my own from scratch.

These ended up costing me almost as much as store bought but I like that I built the myself.
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Old 02-13-2015, 11:39 AM   #4
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i have the teraflex disconnect kit... yeah, don't....

first, the studs don't work with the stock sway bar links. stud is too large to fit through the sway bar holes.

second, the teraflex links i had to get to replace the stock ones are EXTREMELY tight on those studs. you need a pry bar to get them off and a mallet to get them back on.

third, their a little more expensive then others out there, $40 or so.

only thing i like is the bracket that holds the sway bar up on the frame.
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Old 03-05-2015, 09:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
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i have the teraflex disconnect kit... yeah, don't....

first, the studs don't work with the stock sway bar links. stud is too large to fit through the sway bar holes.

second, the teraflex links i had to get to replace the stock ones are EXTREMELY tight on those studs. you need a pry bar to get them off and a mallet to get them back on.

third, their a little more expensive then others out there, $40 or so.

only thing i like is the bracket that holds the sway bar up on the frame.
Do you remember which teraflex links you had to buy? Was it part number 1753030 by chance? I'm in the same boat here. I bought the teraflex kit without the links on ebay just to find out it doesn't work with stock lengths because the metal sleeve isn't removable. I'm looking at part number 1753030 hoping the sleeve is removable on those.
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:11 PM   #6
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I have the same problem with being too tight. I emailed TeraFlex and they are aware of the problem and are mailing me new studs that have been milled down a little. All free of course. They would probably do the same for you.
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Old 04-30-2015, 08:46 AM   #7
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Jeep Wrangler Sway Bar Quick Disconnect Pins | eBay

These are kind of high on my watch list right now. Anybody feel like being the guinea pig?
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:00 AM   #8
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The pins do not work well with the stock links. As above, there isn't enough misalignment in the stock bushings to allow you to remove them from the pin.

You are better off with the inexpensive Rough Country disconnects. You can buy the whole kit for less than $60.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:03 AM   #9
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Jeep Wrangler Sway Bar Quick Disconnect Pins | eBay

These are kind of high on my watch list right now. Anybody feel like being the guinea pig?
Looks like a good idea but I'm not sure how easy they would be to slide off since when you slide the link toward the end the link is actually at an angle. The stock bushing probably won't "give" very much. If you try it I would like to know how well it works out. I only have the TereFlex ones b/c I bought the pieces separately when I could find them cheaper on ebay and elsewhere. They are a little high priced but I can say that their customer service I give an A++ so far.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:19 AM   #10
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The pins do not work well with the stock links. As above, there isn't enough misalignment in the stock bushings to allow you to remove them from the pin.

You are better off with the inexpensive Rough Country disconnects. You can buy the whole kit for less than $60.
Thanks for the heads up, you have me looking at these now. Only concern is most 2.5 lift discos will be too long for me. It does look like they could be cut to length and be rethreaded. I wonder if that is a standard (SAE) thread or metric?
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:32 AM   #11
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Thanks for the heads up, you have me looking at these now. Only concern is most 2.5 lift discos will be too long for me. It does look like they could be cut to length and be rethreaded. I wonder if that is a standard (SAE) thread or metric?
I suspect you are spot on with that. I don't know if it's SAE or metric, but that is a very viable option. A decent die will thread those right up in my opinion. Make them the exact length you want.

I have the RC 2.5 disco's on my build list, but I am going to just move the rears to the front until I am comfortable that there aren't any other issues with my lift and then the RC's will go on.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:01 AM   #12
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After a little research I see that the shaft thread is 1/2-20 so the link can be shortened and threaded, looks good. Shortest adjustment is 9" now so that should be about the length or your rear link IIRC. I am sitting around 1.75 - 2 lift and need around 7.5 link length
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi9 View Post
After a little research I see that the shaft thread is 1/2-20 so the link can be shortened and threaded, looks good. Shortest adjustment is 9" now so that should be about the length or your rear link IIRC. I am sitting around 1.75 - 2 lift and need around 7.5 link length
I like it, post it up if you DIY the length!
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Rugged Ridge XHD
bumper - Yukon Gears - G2 Diff Covers - Pro Comp 8186 - Milestar Patagonia 35's - Teraflex BRK
- TORQ Locker - 1310 Driveshaft - PowerTrax Grip Pro - Full Core 4x4 Control Arms and Track Bars
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:19 AM   #14
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Stud rub

Related, but different issue:

I run JKS discos and when they are off and I stuff my 35s on climbs or off camber, the studs rub the tires badly. Anyone have this issue? Resolution other than taking the studs off before I ride?

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