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Old 01-23-2020, 10:27 PM
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So, just installed an AEV 2.5 lift and I have a question on the front brake line drop bracket.what's your's look like?) Is this how the cable for the sensor mounting is supposed to be routed?

The instructions were a bit vague and I haven't been able to see it clearly on paused videos or in zoomed photos....

This doesn't seem right...



Thanks all! I plan to make a post about the config I went with once I get the new wheels and tires tomorrow and get this figured out...

Thanks!
Dan

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Old 01-23-2020, 11:43 PM   #2
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If yours is a 2010 or older it looks right other than i would slide the slot into the slot on the bracket

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Old 01-24-2020, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
If yours is a 2010 or older it looks right other than i would slide the slot into the slot on the bracket
Mine is a 2017...so newer.... Is it still right?

The directions said on 2011 and newer to separate and discard the brake line bracket at the foot of the shock. This definitely provided more brakeline slack....but the sensor wire is clipped to the brakeline and follows the same path....so....what have others done?

In other words.....the notch in the sensor wire doesn't appear to have the slack when following the brake line path. I think I would have to separate it a bit from the brake line to "free up" enough slack to get it to reach the slot....
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Old 01-24-2020, 08:32 AM   #4
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I have done several newer jk’s and do not use that bracket it is for the 2010 on down
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Old 01-24-2020, 08:41 AM   #5
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As jadmt said, the newer JK / JKUs have longer front brake lines and usually don't need the drop bracket at the frame. After separating the brake line from that bracket down by the base of the spring and shock you may want to invest in a pair of brackets from TeraFlex. They anchor the brake line and keep it from going somewhere it should not go (like into the spring or wheel / tire).
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/b...ine-anchor-kit
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Old 01-24-2020, 08:45 AM   #6
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:15 AM   #7
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I would not seperate the brake hose from the factory bracket.
Just pick up a set pf Pro Comp brake line drop brackets.
#90-7203, and 90-7204.

Makes for a nice clean install, and you do not have to fight to remove the OEM brackets.

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Old 01-24-2020, 09:21 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by jdinny View Post
I would not seperate the brake hose from the factory bracket.
Just pick up a set pf Pro Comp brake line drop brackets.
#90-7203, and 90-7204.

Makes for a nice clean install, and you do not have to fight to remove the OEM brackets.

I wish had known about those I would have ordered a bunch. Definitely make life easier on installing. I love AEV suspensions but there are two areas they suck at and that is the way they have you do the front brake line on newer jks and the stupid swaybar link brackets.
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:25 AM   #9
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I seem to recall only having a bracket in the back. Don't the AEV instructions say to zip-tie the lines to the shock body?

I didn't like that and eventually bought those holder gizmos from Teraflex.
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Weasel View Post
I seem to recall only having a bracket in the back. Don't the AEV instructions say to zip-tie the lines to the shock body?

I didn't like that and eventually bought those holder gizmos from Teraflex.
They do, however they do not say anything about omitting the front drop brackets which now make sense. I need to see if the shop kept the lower OEM brake line mounts. I like the pro-comp drop brackets mentioned above.

Thank you all for the quick responses! As always, awesome pro knowledge base around here!

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Old 01-24-2020, 09:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmulk View Post
They do, however they do not say anything about omitting the front drop brackets which now make sense. I need to see if the shop kept the lower OEM brake line mounts. I like the pro-comp drop brackets mentioned above.

Thank you all for the quick responses! As always, awesome pro knowledge base around here!

<D>
If the shop peeled the original brackets you are out of luck as they get destroyed. You would need new brake lines as the bracket is part of the brake line. just get the teraflex brake thing a ma bobs. They work great.
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by GuzziMoto View Post
As jadmt said, the newer JK / JKUs have longer front brake lines and usually don't need the drop bracket at the frame. After separating the brake line from that bracket down by the base of the spring and shock you may want to invest in a pair of brackets from TeraFlex. They anchor the brake line and keep it from going somewhere it should not go (like into the spring or wheel / tire).
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/b...ine-anchor-kit
Thanks guys! (and jadmt!) If I can't get the lower bracket to work (or it's mangled) I'll go with the TF brackets (I assume they are holding up well enough?)

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Old 01-24-2020, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jadmt View Post
If the shop peeled the original brackets you are out of luck as they get destroyed. You would need new brake lines as the bracket is part of the brake line. just get the teraflex brake thing a ma bobs. They work great.
Ok. Ordering now... Thank you!
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:56 AM   #14
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Ok. Ordering now... Thank you!
Good call. I think they are a very good product, zero issues with mine paired with my Mopar lift.
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:21 AM
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I'm pretty sure I can get the shop to help with this but I might not want to wait for their time slot....so another question:

Since I need to re-route the brakeline/abs sensor bundle from in between the front of the shock and the spring to behind the rear of the shock in order to use these TF brackets, whats the easiest method for doing this?

I think it's pretty obvious that I would need to remove the bottom bolt from the shock, but will there be enough slack without touching the top mounting bolt of the shock to pull it away from the mount to pass the cables between the bottom of the shock and the mounting point? (I know on the passenger side the top mounting nut is a bit of a PITA).

Will I need to use my jack?

Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:28 AM   #16
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yes jack your jeep up and put it no jack stands, remove the bottom shock bolt and drop the axle. If you have a helper just compress the shock and slide everthing underneath the shock. you can do it by yourself just be quick as the shock will decompress quickly. You do not have to touch the top bolt.
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:52 AM
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yes jack your jeep up and put it no jack stands, remove the bottom shock bolt and drop the axle. If you have a helper just compress the shock and slide everthing underneath the shock. you can do it by yourself just be quick as the shock will decompress quickly. You do not have to touch the top bolt.

Excellent. Thank you. And I guess I *should* double confirm that moving the line from between the spring and shock to the back of the shock (between the back of the shock and the wheel well) is actually the right thing to do?

I was assuming because the AEV illustrations in their instructions show it routed between the shock and spring and most videos of the TF brackets show it routed behind the shock and "floating".

Thanks again for the patience and answering all my noob questions!

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Old 01-24-2020, 11:59 AM
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Ah.... actually.... here's a video that illustrates everything we have been talking about.



Thanks again guys! Really appreciate it!
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:00 PM   #19
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that is how I do it. Has always worked for me.
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:26 PM
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that is how I do it. Has always worked for me.
Looks great! Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2020, 02:02 PM   #21
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They do, however they do not say anything about omitting the front drop brackets which now make sense.
https://www.aev-conversions.com/wp-c...Suspension.pdf

Step 8 under Front Suspension:
D. For 2011 or newer models, remove and discard factory bracket from the brake line

Step 10 c:
For 2007—2010 model year JKs install the front brake line drop brackets tightening to 8 ft lbs.
(2011 or newer refer to step 11)

Step 11:
For 2011 and newer models, use supplied zip ties to secure the brake line to the shock as shown
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Old 01-24-2020, 02:26 PM
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Yes, that's what I have. After re-reading it, it makes sense because it's implied. My point was that if it's called out specifically ("For 2011 and newer the front drop brackets are not used skip to step 11") there would be less chance that it could be misinterpreted (which is what happened in my case with the mechanic that completed that part of the install).

Either way, it's clear super clear now...

<D>



Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Weasel View Post
https://www.aev-conversions.com/wp-c...Suspension.pdf

Step 8 under Front Suspension:
D. For 2011 or newer models, remove and discard factory bracket from the brake line

Step 10 c:
For 2007—2010 model year JKs install the front brake line drop brackets tightening to 8 ft lbs.
(2011 or newer refer to step 11)

Step 11:
For 2011 and newer models, use supplied zip ties to secure the brake line to the shock as shown
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Old 01-24-2020, 03:17 PM   #23
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I wish had known about those I would have ordered a bunch. Definitely make life easier on installing. I love AEV suspensions but there are two areas they suck at and that is the way they have you do the front brake line on newer jks and the stupid swaybar link brackets.
That's for sure on that front brake line and brackets.
I agree, AEV makes an awesome product, but those sway bar extension brackets, really?
Those brake lines are a real bitch.
I did my JK before I found them. Stumbled across them before I did the wife's and son's JKUWW's.
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Old 01-26-2020, 11:59 AM   #24
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There were a few tidbits of info I picked up before ordering my 2.5" AEV lift.

One was to get the geo brackets with it. The other was to get replacement rear sway bar links and then move the original rear ones to the front.

I later ended up getting quick-disconnects for the front so I've got Teraflex links all around now.
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Old 01-27-2020, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Weasel View Post
There were a few tidbits of info I picked up before ordering my 2.5" AEV lift.

One was to get the geo brackets with it. The other was to get replacement rear sway bar links and then move the original rear ones to the front.

I later ended up getting quick-disconnects for the front so I've got Teraflex links all around now.
Interesting. What lead you to replacing the rear swaybar links?

I just ordered a set of JKS adjustable front links to replace those goofy brackets.

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Old 01-27-2020, 11:21 AM   #26
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Interesting. What lead you to replacing the rear swaybar links?

I just ordered a set of JKS adjustable front links to replace those goofy brackets.

<D>
with rear adjustable links you can set your rear swaybar at the perfect height. Not that it as important as in front it still gives me the warm and fuzzies.
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Old 01-27-2020, 01:06 PM   #27
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Interesting. What lead you to replacing the rear swaybar links?
You want the arms to be more or less parallel to the ground. If you don't change them, they'll work well enough that AEV thought it was ok but it's still not ideal.

Since the original rear ones end up working well for the lifted front, getting proper-length rear ones solves both problems.

I can't honestly remember why I didn't end using the old rear ones in the front on mine. Do the instructions have you do the front first? If so, then that would explain it. Laziness. Since I wanted disconnects anyway I probably just couldn't be bothered to change them once it was back together.
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Old 01-27-2020, 02:44 PM
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Question

Thanks guys.....hmmm.....now I'm learning the whole JEEP = Just Empty Every Pocket....

Well....I'm now down the rabbit hole.... I had ordered those adjustable JKS front links to be able to ditch the brackets but now I'm thinking....why not have manual disconnects as a backup to the E-Disco... I have free returns to swap to a JKS manual setup.... any issues / negatives to going that route on a Rubicon so I can have both E-disco or manual in the event the e-disco starts acting up?

Also.... I had a guy give me a set of these....would they work in the rear (they are adjustable and seem to be in good shape?

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Old 01-27-2020, 03:30 PM   #29
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Thanks guys.....hmmm.....now I'm learning the whole JEEP = Just Empty Every Pocket....

Well....I'm now down the rabbit hole.... I had ordered those adjustable JKS front links to be able to ditch the brackets but now I'm thinking....why not have manual disconnects as a backup to the E-Disco... I have free returns to swap to a JKS manual setup.... any issues / negatives to going that route on a Rubicon so I can have both E-disco or manual in the event the e-disco starts acting up?

Also.... I had a guy give me a set of these....would they work in the rear (they are adjustable and seem to be in good shape?

Attachment 4198629
That is a common way to go, using manual disconnects with the e-disco from a Rubicon. The e-diso works great for easier flexing, but for serious flexing it is good to actually disconnect the sway bar.
The key with links is the length. If the length is right they should work.
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Old 01-27-2020, 04:02 PM
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Gotcha, so I've ordered a set of these to replace the front "stock/AEV bracket" setup:

JKS 2035 Adjustable Links
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But.... if I wanted to have a manual backup for the E-Disco....

Would this be the right one?:
JKS 2034

https://www.amazon.com/JKS-2034-Sway...omotive&sr=1-1

Thanks again. I'm going to end up owing a lot of you beer if we ever connect in real life....we'll likely need some sort of code word/secret hand shake or something...

<D>

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