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Old 02-09-2015, 03:49 AM
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Re gear

Hello everyone
I recently put on a teraflex 2.5 coil apron lift kit and a set of 35's maxxis tires
I have noticed a bit power lost after the mod and increase of gas
So I am planning to re gear my jk It is a auto transmission , so should I go for 4.56 or 4.88 and is it expensive to do? What parts do I need to get back the driving feel like the factory does? Do I only have to change the pinion and bearing?

Thanks all

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Old 02-09-2015, 03:53 AM   #2
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What year ? Did you recalibrate for tire size ?

Gearing runs $1500-$2000 U.S.

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Old 02-09-2015, 04:17 AM
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What year ? Did you recalibrate for tire size ?

Gearing runs $1500-$2000 U.S.


It is a 2014 You mean tune by those superchip? no
I am in canada tho
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:09 AM   #4
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With the 3.6 engine and 35's, your optimum Ratio is the 4.56.

You will need for both front and rear diffs the following:
Ring and Pinions, Master Installation kits and gear oil.
If you are currently running the 3.21 ratio, then you will also need a front carrier.

The re-calibration is for your speedometer and auto trans shift points!

Make sure that you use a experienced gear shop for your install.
Also get their warranty in writing!!!!!!!
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MENGYI View Post
It is a 2014 You mean tune by those superchip? no I am in canada tho
Not tune .. Recalibrate -for tire size so the odometer/speed is accurate. . I believe the shift points are off which will have a effect on how the tranny shifts.
Look into the AEV Procal or Superchips Flashcal
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Dogger View Post
With the 3.6 engine and 35's, your optimum Ratio is the 4.56.

You will need for both front and rear diffs the following:
Ring and Pinions, Master Installation kits and gear oil.
If you are currently running the 3.21 ratio, then you will also need a front carrier.

The re-calibration is for your speedometer and auto trans shift points!

Make sure that you use a experienced gear shop for your install.
Also get their warranty in writing!!!!!!!
I am currently running 3.73 ratio, i saw a JK Rubicon 44/44 Gear Package And Master Overhaul Kits which include:
(2) Ring & Pinion Sets and (2) Master Overhaul Kits.

Dana 44 front axle
Dana 44 rear axle
will this be enough for the parts?

Thanks
And should i go for 4.88, cuz i will go for 37's eventually.
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Not tune .. Recalibrate -for tire size so the odometer/speed is accurate. . I believe the shift points are off which will have a effect on how the tranny shifts.
Look into the AEV Procal or Superchips Flashcal

thanks for the input!!!!!!
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MENGYI View Post
I am currently running 3.73 ratio, i saw a JK Rubicon 44/44 Gear Package And Master Overhaul Kits which include:
(2) Ring & Pinion Sets and (2) Master Overhaul Kits.

Dana 44 front axle
Dana 44 rear axle
will this be enough for the parts?

Thanks
And should i go for 4.88, cuz i will go for 37's eventually.
If you have a Rubicon, then yes because you will have a Dana 44 front and rear.
But if it is not a Rubicon, then you will have a Dana 30 front, which will require a different Installation kit.

If you are going to 37's, then go with the 4.88 Ratio.
Just keep in mind if you have a Dana 30 front, then the Ring and Pinion is a very weak link for 37's!
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:38 AM
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If you have a Rubicon, then yes because you will have a Dana 44 front and rear.
But if it is not a Rubicon, then you will have a Dana 30 front, which will require a different Installation kit.

If you are going to 37's, then go with the 4.88 Ratio.
Just keep in mind if you have a Dana 30 front, then the Ring and Pinion is a very weak link for 37's!
oh yeah my JK is a rubi, so this kit is all the parts i need right now!

Thanks for solving this for me!
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:07 AM   #11
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If you are going to have a shop install the gears, one thing to keep in mind is that often it is better to have them supply the parts. That way you are ensured to have the right parts and you have "one throat to choke" if anything goes wrong. In many cases, you won't save much by shopping for the absolute lowest price on the parts alone.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dogger View Post

If you have a Rubicon, then yes because you will have a Dana 44 front and rear.
But if it is not a Rubicon, then you will have a Dana 30 front, which will require a different Installation kit.
Just for completeness, the rear Dana 44 is slightly different between the Rubicon and non-Rubicon. The carrier bearings are not the same between the two. The non-Rubicon uses the old style SAE bearings used in previous generation Dana 44's. The Rubicon uses a slightly larger metric bearing. I found this out trying to use a Rubicon carrier in my non-Rubicon axle.

I think the pinion bearings are the same between the two but don't have hard data to confirm that.

Regardless, the install kits for the rear D44 are specific to the Rubicon and non-Rubicon.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:24 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by derf View Post
Just for completeness, the rear Dana 44 is slightly different between the Rubicon and non-Rubicon. The carrier bearings are not the same between the two. The non-Rubicon uses the old style SAE bearings used in previous generation Dana 44's. The Rubicon uses a slightly larger metric bearing. I found this out trying to use a Rubicon carrier in my non-Rubicon axle.

I think the pinion bearings are the same between the two but don't have hard data to confirm that.

Regardless, the install kits for the rear D44 are specific to the Rubicon and non-Rubicon.

Interesting...I didn't know this!

Do the ring and pinion become weaker when you go to a lower gear ratio?
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Old 02-09-2015, 04:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derf View Post
Just for completeness, the rear Dana 44 is slightly different between the Rubicon and non-Rubicon. The carrier bearings are not the same between the two. The non-Rubicon uses the old style SAE bearings used in previous generation Dana 44's. The Rubicon uses a slightly larger metric bearing. I found this out trying to use a Rubicon carrier in my non-Rubicon axle.

I think the pinion bearings are the same between the two but don't have hard data to confirm that.

Regardless, the install kits for the rear D44 are specific to the Rubicon and non-Rubicon.
^^^Thanks for the update.........
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:25 AM   #15
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Interesting...I didn't know this!

Do the ring and pinion become weaker when you go to a lower gear ratio?
The pinion gets smaller as you go higher numerically. So there is a reduction in strength. The JK axles have more beef in the gear sets than previous generations. But there's still a limit to what they can handle. Properly set up and reinforced, the front D30 can handle 35's just fine. Beyond that, it gets iffy.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:12 AM   #17
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The pinion gets smaller as you go higher numerically. So there is a reduction in strength. The JK axles have more beef in the gear sets than previous generations. But there's still a limit to what they can handle. Properly set up and reinforced, the front D30 can handle 35's just fine. Beyond that, it gets iffy.
So 37's with 4.88's in a D30 with moderate off-roading is a tcking time bomb?
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:20 AM   #18
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When you pick your 37s up from the shop and throw them in the back your jeep will most likely explode yes
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:05 PM   #19
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What about 33s on stock gearing then. Can we say that'd be healthy?
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:06 PM   #20
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Also if you get your swap all done, I'd love to see pics.
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Old 02-10-2015, 03:49 PM   #21
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So 37's with 4.88's in a D30 with moderate off-roading is a tcking time bomb?
It's not an all-or-nothing proposition. You can damage a fully beefed up axle on stock tires if you beat the snot out of it. And you can run 37s on an unmodified D30 for years if you baby it.

For most people who wheel their Jeeps, 37s is when you start looking at going aftermarket on the housing. Dynatrac makes a seriously beefed up 44 that can handle 37s. Their D60 is good for the really big tires. All you need is money.

Ask yourself what you're going to do with your Jeep, how much tire you want and what kind of budget you have for upgrades. Figure out how far your budget lets you go or what you need to do to make the budget fit your desires.

Personally, I run 35's on a beefed up d30 with 4.56's and an E-Locker and a matched rear 44. I can do about 90-95% of the trails I want. The rest I'm happy to watch other people beat their rigs on.
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:06 PM   #22
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I literaly just took back a rental wrangler sport. First thing I noticed was my set-up made the stock one seem dogish. On my set-up on the highway at 70 mph I run about 2700 to 2800 (depending on wind). You can see my set-up in my signature. I think 4.88 would be REALLY aggressive with your current 35's. I am glad I didn't do 4.88
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:28 PM   #23
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It's not an all-or-nothing proposition. You can damage a fully beefed up axle on stock tires if you beat the snot out of it. And you can run 37s on an unmodified D30 for years if you baby it. For most people who wheel their Jeeps, 37s is when you start looking at going aftermarket on the housing. Dynatrac makes a seriously beefed up 44 that can handle 37s. Their D60 is good for the really big tires. All you need is money. Ask yourself what you're going to do with your Jeep, how much tire you want and what kind of budget you have for upgrades. Figure out how far your budget lets you go or what you need to do to make the budget fit your desires. Personally, I run 35's on a beefed up d30 with 4.56's and an E-Locker and a matched rear 44. I can do about 90-95% of the trails I want. The rest I'm happy to watch other people beat their rigs on.
Good advice! Might be a silly question, but is there a company (such as Yukon or G2) that is known for stronger gears than another?
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:49 PM   #24
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Good advice! Might be a silly question, but is there a company (such as Yukon or G2) that is known for stronger gears than another?
I don't think there has been any scientific testing to rate them. And from what I understand several companies buy from one manufacturer and rebrand them. I couldn't tell you which ones though because I don't pay close attention.

I don't know of any brand that has a really terrible reputation. There are some brands made in China and I think there are some still left that manufacture in America if that matters to you.

A lot of the time, the best choice is the brand that the installer sells to you when they do the install (that they guarantee).
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:50 AM   #25
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I don't think there has been any scientific testing to rate them. And from what I understand several companies buy from one manufacturer and rebrand them. I couldn't tell you which ones though because I don't pay close attention. I don't know of any brand that has a really terrible reputation. There are some brands made in China and I think there are some still left that manufacture in America if that matters to you. A lot of the time, the best choice is the brand that the installer sells to you when they do the install (that they guarantee).

Noted! Thanks a lot, Derf.

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